Programmübersicht
Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
Mittwoch
13. Oktober 2021
In 2021, the EDC focuses on „Polymers and Surfactants in Detergents and Cleaning Agents – Effects, Benefits, and Applications “. We will discuss the role of natural and synthetic ingredients in detergents and cleaners, as well as their production and modification and aspects of sustainability and environmental friendliness.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The self-assembly of block copolymers in solution is controlled by polarity differences of the blocks towards the selective solvent. The block volume or better yet the volume ratios control the shape of the micelle. While block copolymer micelles in the form of spheres, cylinders and vesicles have been studied in detail in the past 25 years,[1] it was discovered only recently[2] that high asymmetry in favor of the hydrophobic block leads to block copolymer microparticles with an inner morphology of highly ordered channel systems.[3] These channel systems often adopt triply periodic minimal surfaces with cubic (lm3m), double diamond (Pn3m) and gyroid lattice – termed cubosomes, or inverse hexagonal (HII) phases as the organic analogues to mesoporous silica – termed hexosomes. In this presentation, I summarize recent progress from us and others to understand the formation of these inverse morphologies and how to introduce specific functionalities through block chemistry, e.g. carbonization for energy conversion, biodegradation for drug release, and fluorescens for bioimaging.[4,5] Literature: [1] Y. Mai, A. Eisenberg, Chem. Soc. Rev. 2012, 41, 5969–5985. [2] Y. La, C. Park, T. J. Shin, S. H. Joo, S. Kang, K. T. Kim, Nat. Chem. 2014, 6, 534–541. [3] C. K. Wong, X. Qiang, A. H. E. Müller, A. H. Gröschel, Prog. Polym. Sci. 2020, 102, 101211. [4] C. K. Wong, M. Heidelmann, M. Dulle, X. Qiang, S. Förster, M. H. Stenzel, A. H. Gröschel, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 2020, 142, 10989–10995. [5] H. Chen, Y. Fan, N. Zhang, S. Trépout, B. Ptissam, A. Brûlet, B. Z. Tang, M.-H. Li, Chem. Sci. 2021, 16, 6511–6512.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Polyelectrolytes are water-soluble macromolecules and when two polyelectrolytes of opposite charge are mixed together in solution, interpolyelectrolyte complexes (IPECs) are formed[1]. IPECs formed by ionic-assembly in aqueous solutions have attracted broad scientific interest. Depending on their molecular build-up, their behavior and properties in aqueous solution are affected by pH, ionic strength, and temperature. In the present work, polyanions and polycations were synthesized via Atom Transfer Radical Polymerization (ATRP) and were subsequently employed for forming IPECs. As polyanions, we synthesized hydrophobically modified polyacrylates (hm-PAA) with a length of 100 monomer units containing acrylic acid and alkyl-acrylates with a statistical distribution of the monomers along the chain. The hydrophobicity was modified by changing the length of the alkyl chain, in our case, we used butyl and dodecyl and their amount as 10 and 20-mol%. In addition to that, the double-hydrophilic cationic copolymer poly (2-(dimethylamino)ethylmeth-acrylate)-b-polyethylene oxide (PDMAEMA-b-PEO) was synthesized as a block copolymer. For obtaining diblock copolymers monomethylated PEO (mPEO) was used as a macroinitiator, where the PEO block ensures IPEC solubility at equimolar mixing ratios, biocompatibility, and low toxicity [2]. Detailed information regarding their IPECs structures in solutions formed by complexation with PDMAEMA-b-PEO was obtained by static and dynamic light scattering (SLS, DLS) and small angle neutron scattering (SANS). References: [1] Pergushov D V., Müller AHE, Schacher FH (2012) Micellar interpolyelectrolytecomplexes. Chem Soc Rev 41:6888–6901. [2] Pioge S, Fontaine L, Gaillard C, et al (2009) Self-assembling properties of well defined poly(ethylene oxide)-b-poly (ethyl acrylate) diblock copolymers. Macromolecules 42:4262–4272.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The combination of polymers as thickener with microemulsions as carrier for hydrophobic substances result in an interesting colloidal system. A main interest is to control the structure and properties of those polymer-microemulsion systems by changing the different parameters, such as pH, salt, or temperature. Formerly, hydrophobically modified (HM) multiarm polymers were investigated in mixtures with oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsions in respect to network formation and the resulting rheologic properties. The hydrophobic domains interact with the hydrophobic core of the microemulsion and form interconnected networks where the microemulsion droplets acted as knots and the hydrophilic polymer chain as linkers [1,2]. Of special interest are hydrophobically modified thermo-responsive (HMTR) block-polymers in aqueous solution which can be used as thermo-active thickeners or thermo-responsive amphiphiles for solubilization of hydrophobic molecules. However, the solubilization capacity of such systems is generally low. Hence, the combination with microemulsions (MEs) as carriers for hydrophobic substances results in loaded systems, where the rheologic properties of the microemulsion solution can be tuned and switched via temperature. A biofriendly microemulsion consisting of Tween 20 (polyoxyethylene-(20)-sorbitan monolaurate) as surfactant, ethylhexylglycerol as cosurfactant, isopropylpalmitate as oil and water as solvent was used. The HMTR block-polymers have a dodecyl chain as hydrophobic modification, ~200 units of N,N‑dimethylacrylamide as permanently hydrophilic block, and 30 units of a thermo-responsive monomer with a lower critical solution temprerature such as N-isopropylacrylamide [3]. The structure of the ME-polymer aggregates in aqueous solution was investigated in the temperature range of 20‑60°C for concentrations between 0.5‑5 %wt by scattering techniques and rheology. References [1] P. Malo de Molina, C. Herfurth, A. Laschewsky, and M. Gradzielski, Langmuir 28, 15994 (2012). [2] P. Malo de Molina, M.S. Appavou, and M. Gradzielski, Soft Matter 10, 5072 (2014). [3] M. Hechenbichler, A. Laschewsky, and M. Gradzielski, Colloid Polym. Sci. 299, 205 (2021).
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The self-assembly behaviour of oppositely charged polyelectrolyte surfactant complexes (PESCs) is very rich and quite a number of structurally different arrangements such as pearl-necklace structures, rodlike aggregates, uni- or multilamellar vesicles has been reported.[1] Aside from fundamental scientific interest, PESCs have found application in cosmetics, detergency and enhanced oil recovery EOR.[2] Some PESCs show a remarkable increase in viscosity near charge equilibrium, while other very similar systems do not show any appreciable effect. The exact structural prerequisites to achieve a significant increase in viscosity are still unclear. Here, we study PESCs consisting of the cationic polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC) and sodium dodecylsulfate (SDS) and compare the results to the previously investigated PESCs of SDS and the cationically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose (JR 400). [3] Under similar conditions, PDADMAC based PESCs do not significantly increase the viscosity of solutions, as was observed for JR 400. The observed differences in the macroscopic viscosity were linked to the differences in the mesoscopic structure, explicitly confirmed by the small angle neutron scattering (SANS). While JR 400 /SDS PESCs would form an interdigitated complex structure, the PDADMAC /SDS would favour the formation of a segregated core-shell structure. The latter one is less efficient in anchoring the PE to the complex, resulting in less pronounced increase in viscosity. [1] Gradzielski, M.; Hoffmann, I. Current opinion in colloid & interface science 2018, 35, 124–141. [2] Chiappisi, L.; Simon, M.; Gradzielski, M. ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2015, 7, 6139–6145. [3] Hoffmann, I.; Farago, B.; Schweins, R.; Falus, P.; Sharp, M.; Prévost, S.; Gradzielski, M. J. Chem. Phys. 2015, 143, 074902.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Nature produces efficiently unlimited amounts of polysaccharides (PS) with structural diversity and functional versatility. By chemical modification of PS, a myriad of novel functional polymers with designed properties is available; PS and their derivatives will be increasingly used in commercial applications and thus contribute to a sustainable world. In the frame of our studies to design the structure and hence properties of water soluble PS derivatives, novel concepts for the PS chemistry are developed in addition to the conventional direct modification of the functional groups by etherification or esterification. A novel approach is based on reactive platform derivatives of PS containing sulfonic acid ester- and phenyl carbonate moieties (T. Heinze et. al., in Cellulose Science and Technology – Chemistry, Analysis, and Applications, Th. Rosenau, A. Potthast, J. Hell (Eds.), John Wiley & Sons, 2018, pp. 1-18). The preparation of PS phenyl carbonates could be easily carried out under homogeneous reaction conditions applying various reaction systems including Ionic Liquids, which are not only most efficient solvents but also environmentally friendly due to their inherent properties like stability and recyclability. The phenyl carbonate groups, which may possess different functions in the aromatic systems to control their reactivity, are easily accessible to nucleophilic displacement reactions using multifunctional amines that are also important naturally occurring molecules. Thus, a broad variety of novel, finally completely bio-based and water soluble PS derivatives could be obtained that were studied regarding their activity as redeposition inhibitors and soil release agents. Representative results of derivatives of different PS backbones (cellulose, xylan) of different degrees of substitution obtained by conversion with hydroxyalkyl amines, which contains oxygen atoms and secondary and tertiary amino moieties in the spacers, will be presented (WO 2019/243071; WO 2015/044061). From these studies, structure-properties relations can be concluded to optimize the structure for these applications.
Spoken Language: English Award Session: Young Scientist Award – Master thesis: Jan Nilles Young Scientist Award – Doctoral thesis: Dr. Lars Gabriel
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Polysaccharide are the most important biopolymers and thus, a well available and sustainable source for bio-based functional polymers. While cellulose or starch are well investigated and their derivatives are commercially used to a large extent, the chemical modification of a myriad of other polysaccharides is not studied in detail. Therefore, my work was focused on the heterogeneously feasible carboxymethylation and sulfoethylation of different polysaccharides to generate water soluble products, on one hand. On the other hand, the available but underestimated hemicellulose xylan was studied regarding modular synthesis approaches to produce new soluble functional polymers. The water-soluble products obtained were characterized in detail and their effect as detergent additives was evaluated. The carboxymethylation was performed for a variety of polysaccharides to analyse their reactivity under technical relevant conditions. The reaction-influencing parameters were varied and interpreted. The sulfoethylation was also studied in detail by varying relevant reaction parameters and comparing the reaction behaviour of different polysaccharides. In case of chitosan, chemoselective conversions of hydroxyl- and amino groups could be achieved for these etherification reactions and even mixed sulfoethyl-carboxymethyl ethers became available. The interaction of these anionic polysaccharides derivatives with cellulose surface was investigated by QCM-D measurements and a significant effects as anti-greying agents in detergents could be shown. Xylan was converted into xylan phenylcarbonate as reactive intermediate for modular synthesis approaches. Using a variety of different amines, xylan phenylcarbonates were converted into functional xylan carbamates that demonstrate their versatility as activated intermediates. Xylan carbamates were studied regarding their bioactivity and their thermal- and hydrophobic properties. In addition, they are active as soil-release additive in detergents.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Since more than two decades renewable natural oils constantly gain importance in the manufacturing of surfactants. However the source of this natural part of surfactants is not diverse but depends largely on palm kernel oil and to a smaller extent on coconut oil. Lauric oils for many reasons became the standard in oleo chemistry. Alternative available natural oils based on plants that grow in the moderate zone of the globe would bio-diversify the one-way road to oleo based surfactants. Vegetable oils from the temperate zone are different to those from the tropical part of the earth. The carbon chain length of these triglycerides are longer (C18) and depending on the oil there is a higher degree of unsaturation, demonstrated in the individual iodine numbers. This clearly has effects in chemical reactions and in applications as well. The double bonds of C18 polyunsaturated fatty acids (C18-PUFA) with respect to melting point and viscosity show similar behaviors like branching in saturated C-chains with the advantage of very good biodegradation properties of the C18-PUFAs. Chemical modifications in principle are also possible at the double bonds. On the other hand this increased reactivity asks for a higher attention as usual when working with unsaturated substances. In this respect quality of raw materials and the use of natural anti-oxidants support good sensorial characteristics. In any case surfactants based on plant oils of the moderate zone are not drop-in solutions in home care consumer goods. Two examples oleylglucamides from sunflower oil and cationic surfactants from sunflower/rapseed oil are shown. New developed formulations with these surfactants show at least comparable performance versus cleaning products containing current palm kernel oil/coconut oil. It can be concluded that C18-UFA based plant oils enlarge the base of oleo feedstocks for sustainable surfactants.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Laundry detergents consumers are adopting more sustainable washing habits, such as low temperature wash and use of concentrated liquid detergents. This creates new challenges for the performance of this type of detergents, in particular for stain removal. We show the latest lab work results where we demonstrate the importance of water quality in laundry stain removal process and how green chelate GLDA enhances stain removal and boosts performance of concentrated liquid detergents.
Poster 31 Marta Wojcieszak, Poznan University of Technology: "Surface Properties of Morpholinium Herbicidal Ionic Liquids" Poster 32 Alessia Costantini, UNIRED SRL: "Project Design of a Mild Cleanser for Oily Acne Prone Skin" Poster 33 Maximilian Krappel, Universität Stuttgart: "Efficiency Boosting of Surfactants in Microemulsions with Novel Amphiphilic Poly(ethylene oxide)-poly(alkyl glycidyl ether) Polymers" Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Dye transfer is an unwanted severe effect in household washing processes. Loose dye from colored fabrics can stain white or light-colored clothes and lead to an unpleasant discoloration. Todays color detergents contain polymers, which are effective as dye transfer inhibitors (DTI) especially for cottons but much less effective for delicate fibers like polyamide, which is prone to take up dyes from all different fiber types. Many different ideas have been evaluated in recent years to overcome this problem and a proof of concept was found for various DTI concepts. But to further improve the dye transfer inhibition performance of a detergent, it is important to understand the molecular interactions of detergent components like anionic and nonionic surfactants and DTI polymer with dye in solution and at interfaces. We used atomic force microscopy (AFM) directly in aqueous mixtures to characterize the adsorbed layers of dye, surfactant [1] and DTI polymer on graphite as model surface, which allowed the allocation of individual components. Quantitative adsorption studies on carbon black as well as UV-Vis spectroscopy and surface tension measurements complete the picture. Two different mechanisms were found to play a decisive role in the adsorption of dye on surfaces in the presence of surfactants [2]: the competitive adsorption of individual components and the incorporation of dye into hemicylindrical surfactant aggregates on model surfaces. As known from DTI polymer in solution, a dye-polymer complex is formed on model surfaces above the CAC of the polymer. In the presence of surfactants above the CMC, the adsorption of the polymer is inhibited due to the dominant adsorption of surfactants. References [1] W. von Rybinski, M. Jabnoun, J. van Megen, F. Oesterhelt and C. Seidel, Colloid Polym Sci, 293 2015, 3107-3117. [2] Y.Zhan, “Study of Interactions between Surfactant, Polymer and Dye in Solution and at Interfaces“ Dissertation Heinrich-Heine-Universität Düsseldorf (2020)
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research We present a new disinfectant cleaner technology that imparts long lasting disinfection properties to treated surfaces. It combines specific surfactants, quat-based biocidal actives and a proprietary polymer to achieve optimal cleaning and disinfection, together with ability of the cleaned surface to withstand multiple cycles of abrasion and remain free of microbial recontamination. The technology relies on interactions between micelles of the biocidal quaternary ammonium compounds and the polymer. Such interaction is investigated by X-ray diffraction measurements that show the appearance of long range interactions between quaternary ammonium micelles in presence of polymer. Other additives in the cleaning formula, in particular detergency surfactants, are carefully selected to provide optimal cleaning performance while preserving the specific interaction of polymer and quaternary ammonium biocides. When deposited on the surface during the cleaning process, the polymer-quaternary ammonium complexes allow trapping the quat biocidal actives on the surface in a sub-micronic invisible film that protects them from repeated abrasion. We show that low level release of the quats by the film when contacted by bacteria or virus is sufficient to allow the surface to self-sanitize after more than 6 wet-and-dry abrasion cycles and microbial recontaminations. Besides best-in-class cleaning and disinfection performances, thorough microbiological testing of the formula demonstrates long lasting disinfection against virus and bacteria compliant with most stringent world standards, including US EPA RSS and UK BSI PAS2424.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The innovative easy-to-clean concept with hydrophilic protective layers, which are formed by functional collagen peptides on cleaned surfaces, enables the development of more environmentally friendly cleaning agents that work effectively even in mild pH conditions. In addition to a convincing cleaning result, extended cleaning cycles, lower water consumption and easier cleaning are already documented advantages. During the cleaning process, surfactants displace the dirt and a hydrophilic protein film forms on the cleaned surface as a natural surface protection. Depending on the nature of the cleaner used, surfactants are also absorbed on and in the protective film. When rinsed with water, these layers partially dissolve and release the surfactants, while a thin protein layer remains as surface protection. It has been shown that this mechanism can be used effectively to combat biofilms. Using real-time measurements on a quartz crystal microbalance, it was possible to show, for example, that milk could be effectively cleaned off the hydrophilic protective layer as a model system. Further studies investigated the protective effect of the hydrophilic protein layer against surface adhesion and growth of microorganisms. In addition, the transport or fixation of active substances, such as biocidal quaternary ammonium compounds and esterquats, on cleaned surfaces is also conceivable, with which surfaces can be temporarily protected against pathogenic substances.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Saponins are amphiphilic molecules which are found in a large variety in nature, granting them the attribute bio-surfactants. Most of these molecules have very strong biological effects e.g. haemolytic activity. This is due to the rather strong interaction with lipid membranes. In the present contribution we study the interaction of glycyrrhizin with lipid vesicles (namely DMPC [1] and DOPG based). Glycyrrhizin is of great interest due to its interesting self-assembly behavior and also due to its potential anti-viral activity. Moreoever, in contrast to other saponins, it is less haemolytic. First, the general shape of the structures formed upon mixing the saponin with lipids is analyzed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy (cryo-TEM) in the case of pure DOPG and a sample with the highest glycyrrhizin content of 50 mol%. Moreover, results from several scattering methods are employed to characterize the size of the formed mixed structures. Wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) resolves the glycyrrhizin content-dependent acyl-chain correlation distance. Small angle scattering with neutrons and X-rays (SANS/SAXS) is used to determine the overall size, membrane thickness and, membrane contrast profile. [1]Dargel, C.; Hannappel, Y. and Hellweg, T. Heating-Induced DMPC/Glycyrrhizin Bicelle-to-Vesicle Transition: A X-Ray Contrast Variation Study, Biophys J. , 118(10), 2411-2425.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research, Membrane Mimetic, Dug Discovery Polymers and detergents are important membrane mimetics. To tune the properties of polymers for individual applications, design rules are crucially needed. For this purpose, a modular polymer architecture will be introduced to membrane protein research: dendritic polyglycerol. Polymers are commonly described as ‘cookie cutters’ that punch out membrane proteins and the surrounding lipidome from membranes. Surprisingly, amphiphilic polyglycerol sulphate leaves membrane structures intact and enables their purification. This leads to new purification concepts for membrane proteins and sheds light on the widespread utility of detergents for the purification of functional membrane proteins. Moreover, amphiphilic polyglycerol sulphate enables the analysis of functional drug targets, such as the outer membrane protein T (OmpT), vitamin B12 transporter (BtuCD), and G protein-coupled receptors (GPCRs). The modular construction of dendritic polymers facilitates structure-property studies and will revolutionize the discovery of custom-made polymers for future applications in structural biology and drug discovery.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Investigation of carbon dioxide (CO2) as sustainable resource is of fundamental interest for research and industrial applications. It can be used as a building block in chemical compounds such as polymers or surfactants.[1] Substituting ethylene oxide (EO) units in abundantly produced non-ionic EO-surfactants by CO2 can increase the sustainability and save natural and fossil resources. Similarly interesting, introducing CO2 gives a new tuning parameter for non-ionic surfactants, allowing to better match particular application requirements and thereby a more economical consumption and potentially even opening up pathways for novel formulations.[2] The solubilization potential of CO2 towards industrial relevant oils (decane, isopropylpalmitate, bis(2-ethylhexyl)carbonate) with different polarity has been characterized by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) and compared with data from static and dynamic light scattering (SLS, DLS), interfacial tension measurements (IFT) and quantitative NMR (qNMR). At a given surfactant concentration, the use of CO2-containing surfactants can greatly increase the solubilization capacity for oils compared to that of conventional EO-surfactants, as the incorporation of CO2 into the head group renders the surfactant more effective with respect to their interfacial activity. Funding: This project is part of “DreamResourceConti” (033R222C) and funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF) within the funding priority “r+Impuls – Innovative Technologien für Ressourceneffizienz – Impulse für industrielle Ressourceneffizienz”. References: [1] J. Langanke, J. Hofmann, K. Böhm, M. Subhani, T. Müller, W. Leitner, C. Gürtler, “Carbon dioxide (CO2) as sustainable feedstock for polyurethane production”, Green Chem., 16, 1865-1870 (2014). [2] M. Tupinamba Lima, V. Spiering, S. Kurt-Zerdeli, D. Brüggemann, M. Gradzielski, R. Schomäcker, “The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of carboxylate and carbonate modified nonionic surfactants”, Colloids and Surfaces A, 569, 156-163 (2019).
Spoken Language: English
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Today's consumers are becoming more and more concerned about the impact cosmetic products can have on human health, the environment and society. Suppliers have made strides beyond the Clean Beauty trend over the past decade in terms of safety, transparency and origin of ingredients. The industry is heeding a new call to action all along the supply chain for significantly reducing our environmental footprint toward a “carbon neutral” beauty industry. Achieving these goals as key actors, requires beauty ingredient suppliers to find innovative and sustainable solutions thanks to the eco-design approach as well as a methodology for assessing the environmental impact associated with all life-cycle stages for commercial products, processes, or services. Beauty brands must turn to trusted raw material suppliers to help them navigate this challenging landscape and overcome a multitude of regulatory issues. One of the critical concerns in the hair care space today focuses on the lack of biodegradability with silicones, according to Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) standard tests. Our Solvay hair care experts have transformed this ongoing challenge into an offering rooted in the principles of Circular Beauty. Following the path from natural origin to biodegradability to net a negative carbon footprint, not only fulfills consumer expectations for more natural solutions, but also enables formulators to make significant steps toward carbon neutrality.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Amidst the global demand for cosmetics with a sense we developed two ingredients which share the same goal of providing consumers with natural and traceable products without compromising on benefits offered nor scientific merit. A safe alternative to retinoic acid was crafted from mango leaves to control sebum overexpression and protect skin microbiome while embracing the desire for mindfulness in cosmetics, as it is mindful of both sourcing, the Planet, and consumers. The raw material is ethically sourced in Burkina Faso. Under molecular docking & reverse molecular docking, the compound was shown to trigger PPAR, RXR and RAR receptors targeted by retinoids. The compound inhibits lipogenesis up to -90%. Sebaceous glands’ volume was reduced by -50%, with squalene, triglycerides and free fatty acids syntheses being significantly reduced too. The compound decreased the activity of Cutibacterium acnes by -87%, also reducing facial porphyrins. Clinical testing in double blind vs placebo was conducted on 3 types of skin ethnicities, ensuring inclusivity for women globally, regardless of age or skin type. A Vegan red pigment was eco-designed from the anthocyanin-rich Chinese red radish Raphanus Sativus L originating from Yunnan, 100% natural and 100% traceable. Anthocyanins are extracted from the roots, purified and blended with maltodextrin and clay, offering top-tier stability. The compound at 10% delivers better chroma (C*>60) and coverage (Contrast Ratio > 24%), while offering a shade akin to synthetic reference Red 36 lake. It also features antioxidant properties, protecting the fragile lips’ skin from free radicals. Evaluated through different standard tests (ORAC and CAT), and on human epidermal keratinocytes, the compound showed better antioxidant results than vitamin C, BHT and resveratrol. The compound gives consumers a clean, natural, cruelty-free and Vegan alternative for lipsticks, whose radiant red hue is often provided by synthetic pigments. Developed with mindfulness, delivering outstanding benefits.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care/ /Green Chemistry Aluminum salts are widely employed in antiperspirants due to their efficacy of blocking the flow of sweat. However, a serious concern around health issues forces the personal care industry to discover new alternatives that are as effective as aluminum. In Omya, we have developed a safer alternative that demonstrates an in-vitro superior clogging property by 30% compared to commercially available aluminum-based antiperspirants. This efficacy is confirmed with a novel device SOD4[1] by using microfluidic chip Smart-PoreTM that mimics the sweating process and measures the burst pressure in order to evaluate the clogging properties. The new technology is composed of high-purity calcium mineral and bio-sourced molecule. Due to its unique shape the novel composition does not only absorb sweat but also reduces sweat via a protein denaturation mechanism. It generates smaller and more compact clogs like “champagne cork” and prevents the sweat secretion. At the concentration of 10% the novel composition reaches a mean burst pressure of 1’000mbar which is comparable to a concentration of 25% ACH (Aluminium Chlorohydrate) and above. The uniqueness of the new technology lies in a “time-shift “capability enabling also the long lasting performance. [1] https://www.microfactory.eu
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry A desire for more natural and sustainable products is driving beauty trends in the hair care market towards naturally derived alternatives. Cellulose, a naturally derived polysaccharide, has been commonly used in hair care products as it can be modified with functional groups to tune its physical and chemical properties. Recently, new researches have led to the development of an innovative technology: cationic and hydrophobic modified hydroxyethyl cellulose (cat-hmHEC polymer) which is a versatile bio-derived and biodegradable cellulose-based polymer with 48% bio-derived content for hair conditioner. Compared to the traditional cellulose-based polymers, cat-hmHEC polymer contains a more hydrophobic moiety, offering unique performance benefits without polymer build up. This new cat-hmHEC polymer has comparable performance to silicone in wet combing and reduced breakage. Sensory panel studies showed that cat-hmHEC polymer provides better feel and dry combing compared to amodimethicone, while increasing the biobased content and biodegradability of the conditioning polymer. Cat-hmHEC also provides hair manageability, hair alignment and allows hair to retain a high degree of hydrophobicity translating into healthier hair. The deposition of the cat-hmHEC polymer on the hair surface was analyzed with FTIR microscopes and XPS. The results correlated with the objective application testing and subjective sensory feel parameters, which is important to the consumer. This class of polymers can be used with or without silicones and can be structurally modified to meet the desired aesthetics while increasing the naturality of a wide range of formulations.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Very recently, multifunctional cosmetic ingredients have been experiencing a green transformation as nature-derived materials have been appearing on the market, offering alternatives for use even in completely green finished products or to make products greener. An example is pentylene glycol derived from bagasse. Since the first 1,2-alkanediol, which happens to be pentylene glycol, was launched 30 years ago, several other chain lengths of this chemistry - C6/C8/C10 - have been introduced on the market, covering a range of benefits for cosmetic formulations. The new substance that we are going to introduce here was curiously missing from this homologous series until this year. No longer the odd one out, this unique uneven carbon alkanediol exceeded obvious expectations of performance based on its structure and has proven to be a venerable member of this family of multifunctionals, complementing the portfolio of 1,2-alkanediols. Its optimal chain length combines the liquid form and water solubility of shorter diols with the efficacy of longer ones. As a tribute to the green path towards the future of multifunctionals, the new substance is 100% nature-derived and sourced from the castor bean plant and therefore not competing with foodstocks. Innovation doesn't stop. It just moves to new pastures.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Consistency, texture and feel are sensory properties that play a crucial role in a product’s success in the market. Different types of market-available rheology modifiers allow formulators to create products with varying appearances and textures. These include natural gums, like xanthan gum; modified naturals, like cellulose derivatives; and synthetics, like acrylic polymers. While these technologies can bring added value, they can come with limitations and even obstacles as well in terms of current regulations and sustainability concerns. Personal care formulation development today necessitates the consideration of environmental impact. Consumers want effective cosmetic products with the right aesthetics, while maximizing the long-term beneficial impact on the environment and society. Discover Solvay’s new biotech beauty ingredient, a readily biodegradable rheology modifier that helps solve the challenges in front of current benchmarks. Its origin and flexibility enables the creation of high-performing formulations proven to be safer for humans and the environment without overconsuming or exhausting resources. This win-win ingredient is a ready-to-use liquid natural polymer solution that won’t impact the viscosity of a formulation while delivering high-suspension power in rinse-off cosmetic products.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Mindful use of resources and especially water has been evolving over the past years to a trend. Product concentrates, requiring less water in formulation and production play an important role. Several ingredient concepts can be used to boost the performance of these product concentrates which contain less or no water. Multifunctional particles and liposoluble ingredients are available tob e easily formulated in these mindful cosmetic products. Solid product forms which transform during application into creams, cleansing lotions etc. require water free active ingredients. Natural oils are emollients and maintain the skin function. Tsubaki oil, for example, has a proven anti-pollution effect. Natural clay powder mixes, which can be added at any stage of the formulation process, absorb sebum and sweat. Some mixtures have anti-aging effects. Based on formulation examples of solid product forms it will be demonstrated how easy boosting of the performance can be.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Well-being is a trend which has been gaining a lot of momentum recently particularly in the context of the COVID-19 crisis. Neuro- cosmetics are the next logical step in the move towards well-being. This conference will explore the topic of neurosciences and present some ingredients that enhance mood and emotions. Our journey will start with understanding what neuro-cosmetics really means for consumers. We will briefly decode consumer needs and behaviors and look at some market examples. After clarifying the difference between emotion and mood, we will navigate through the brain and see where emotions and moods are created. The close relationship between the nervous, immune and endocrine systems will be described. We will try to understand how skin communicates with the brain and vice versa. Examples of neurotransmitters, neuronal growth factors and neuro receptors will be given. We will also describe how to measure neuro-signals via in-vitro and ex-vivo tests. Body fluid and heart rate analysis, electrodermal responses analysis, sensory evaluation, brain imaging by electro or magneto encephalography and behavior measurements will be presented as methods to measure moods and emotions. Some examples of active ingredients which target neuro/inflammatory mediators and neuro-receptors will be shown. Our journey will end with a futuristic view on neurosciences. This will be an opportunity to touch base on topics such as epigenetics and psychobiotics and propose an holistic approach to cosmetic product development.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care / Chronobiology By modulating clock genes and circadian modulators, and by boosting “Brain-Skin” axis pathways (like oxytocin), the Andrographis paniculata leaf extract revitalizes the skin. Tested on night/shift workers, it significantly reduces the impacts on skin & mood of fatigue induced by modern lifestyles. The Active is 100% natural and titrated in andrographolide sourced from the leaves of the green chiretta. Defining the Mindful Beauty Trend Mindful Beauty in the next phase of natural, wellness and self care cosmetics. Choosing plant based ingredients and to develop a respectful relationship with one´s own skin and the world around is a major cosmetic trend. Vitaly potent Natural Ingredients. The purified extract of the leaves of Green Chiretta Andrographis paniculata is titrated in andrographolide and well known as a major detoxifying plant in Ayurveda. Unique Chronobiological Approach for a Yoga like Effect. GreenChiretta modulates skin circadian clock, by restoring a “young” invigorating clock gene expression profile in old/tired keratinocytes and by acting on circadian modulators related to key cellular pathways. GreenChiretta extends cell longevity, reduces cell damages, promoting skin revitalization. GreenChiretta also acts as a “Brain-Skin” axis booster, enhancing oxytocin, endocannabinoid and endorphin signaling pathways to relax skin. In line with the Inner Clock for a Restored and Fresh Look. Clinically tested on night/shift workers during 28 days, GreenChiretta was proved to significantly reduce facial visible signs of fatigue (eye bags, dark circles, under-eye wrinkles, dull tone) and the impacts of fatigue on mood: the feeling of well-being was boosted, the perceived stress and the negative affect were reduced (“yoga-like” effect). GreenChiretta is a chrono-detox active ingredient providing a “feel good energizing” effect. For brands who´s customers care what they put in and on their body. Cosmos & China approved
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care One of the dominant topics of cosmetic and dermatological research in recent times is the microbiome of human skin. The common understanding is that a balanced microbiome contributes to healthy skin. Numerous studies have been carried out to investigate the influence of different factors on the composition of the microbiome. In general, the broader the diversity of the skin microbiome the better it is for skin health. Currently there is an increasing number of cosmetic products on the market which claim positive effects on the microbiome and lead to improved skin condition. Some concerns have been raised that antimicrobials contained in deodorants or preservatives systems could have a negative impact on the composition and diversity of the skin microbiota. Understanding the long-term effect of preservatives and multifunctional ingredients used in cosmetic products on the composition of the skin microbiome is of high interest. Therefore we analysed the impact on the skin microbiome of the two most commonly used antimicrobial active ingredients. In this study we can show that there are no changes in the microbiome composition and diversity after several weeks of exposure to an effectively preserved cosmetic product.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Staying fresh and confident all day long is a challenge for many people in the world. To keep cool, our organism naturally produces sweat that helps to decrease body temperature but this is usually associated with body odor. Different strategies to reduce sweat malodor already exist in the cosmetic industry, either by targetting sweat production itself or by reducing the amount of axillary bacteria. However, these solutions often do not take into account the importance of preserving a healthy microbiome. While axillary bacteria responsible for malodor formation have been identified, most anti-microbial agents have a broad spectrum of action. Those tend to have a negative impact on the microbiome and can lead to a less diverse ecosystem with the dominance of single species. Knowing this, we developed a human underarm ex-vivo microbiome model based on fresh human sweat to screen ingredients effective on controlling malodor and minimizing the impact on the microbiome. This tool focuses on sweat evolution over time and provides information ranging from the odor intensity (assessed by a sniffing panel) to metabolite composition (analysed by GC-MS, HPLC-MS) while monitoring the axillary microbiome via 16S rRNA gene sequencing. We found that menthyl lactate reduces sweat malodor up to 48 hours without targeting broadly all axillary bacteria. It specifically acts on the amount of anaerobic bacteria in the ex vivo sweat model and reduces only relevant bacteria such as Moraxella, Anaerococcus and Finegoldia. Menthyl lactate prevents known malodorous compounds as well, such as butyric acid, to be formed in the sweat, which is shown in our metabolite analysis. Then, menthyl lactate brings the perfect mix of freshness and body odor control with microbiome benefits. Keywords: Cooling; Deodorant; Sweat microbiome; ex vivo model
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Other The market share of biosurfactants is expanding rapidly due to commitments from major formulators to replace €billions/annum of surfactants with biosurfactants and due to favourable characteristics for use in personal care and household cleaning products. In particular, many biosurfactants have antimicrobial, moisturizing, controllable foaming and are 100% biodegradable. At present biosurfactants tend to be used in high end products due to their relatively high production cost. We present results from the development of a novel gravity based integrated separation technique for the controlled production and in situ separation of glycolipid biosurfactants during fermentation. This technique has enabled us to increase productivity to >5.5 g l-1 h-1 and titer to > 1200 g l-1, initially for sophorolipid biosurfactants. We present results from the scale up of this technology to full precommercial pilot plant scale. We have demonstrated our technology with two additional biosurfactants, and identified its suitability with a range of biosurfactants, enabling dramatic reductions in production costs. This technology platform is set to make biosurfactants an economically viable alternative to traditional surfactants across a range of industries, including the home cleaning sector where sophorolipids are already in commercial use.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Care Agents In the past years, market offering of laundry detergents has evolved in many ways. First, format has moved from powder to liquid and then toward monodose detergents. Then, accentuated by COVID-19 pandemic, e-commerce offering has also grown with a myriad of options available. For consumer, while detergent offerings have increased, the main criterion for choice remains cleaning efficiency. In addition, organic, sustainable, greener claims have a stronger impact now on consumer decision. Also, consumers are looking for more sustainable approach about clothes consumption and looking for extending life of their clothes. Overall, caring for consumer laundry should be a comprehensive package including cleaning performance from sustainable ingredients, fiber longevity, and sensorial benefits like perfume and softness. From laundry manufacturers & active suppliers perspective, the challenge is now to maintain performances with the development of biodegradable, bio-sources actives bringing secondary benefits at affordable cost. The first part of the presentation will detail the multiple challenges that exists to bring sensorial care to textiles from laundry detergent like the high dilution factor applied to the laundry additive, the complexity of laundry formulation, interaction between ingredients, or compaction. Finally, the rinsing, spinning and drainage during the washing program tend to prevent persistency of actives on fibers. In the second part of the presentation, technical routes to maximize benefits in laundry will be addressed. One way to apply suitable active to laundry surface will be to use deposition aid. In this direction, adjusting the molecules to bring smart deposition and avoid side deposition of dirt will be key. Once in contact with laundry fabric, another way to improve performance is to get persistency of the active on fabric and avoid complete removal that may occur in rinse and spin phases of the laundry processes.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents The development of sustainable surfactants and additives for automated dishwashing (ADW) can be a tedious, time- and resource consuming development process. The standardized dishwasher-test, although irreplaceable and necessary, is not suited to effectively test the plethora of sustainable alternatives to common ADW additives and surfactants. To create a more sustainable and effective research effort we established numerous effective pre-screenings based on well-established and recent scientific findings. These pre-screenings determine the physical properties of surfactants and link these to effects desired in automated dishwashing, like plastic drying and water drainage from glassware. These highly desirable effects can be linked to two characteristic physical properties of a surfactant, the influence on the contact angle on a certain surface and the surface tension. The testing for drainage capabilities and therefore the suitability as a rinse aid in ADW is done by static and dynamic surface tension measurements. These tests are done in a two-stage manner, in which, with a simple dynamic measurement the suitability of the surfactant is determined and in a second step the effectiveness is investigated by more in depth temperature and concentration dependent measurements. In order to investigate the ability of a surfactant or additive to accelerate the slow drying process of plastic-ware in the dishwasher we use dynamic contact angle measurements on treated substrates. The process of automated dishwashing is simulated inside a beaker with test-substrates, which are afterwards characterized using dynamic contact angle measurements.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents The use of conventional limescale removers poses a severe risk for environment and consumer due to high concentrations of acids and other harmful chemicals which are typical ingredients in such cleaning agents. Therefore a rising demand on sustainable alternatives with reduced environmental risk occurs and forces manufacturers to design new products. In this study a sustainable limescale remover based on biopolymers (alginates, xanthan gums, carageenans) was developed. Alginates are a promising key component because of their ability to form complexes with calcium ions. This can be used to increase the power of organic acids to dissolve calcium carbonate deposits. As a consequence it leads also to a decreased amount of organic acid in lime removers while maintaining their efficiency. The cleaning agent should be applied as gel or foam to the targeted surface to maximize the contact time and to enable the customer to clean complex geometries like industrial machines in a cost effective way with less effort. To measure the efficiency of different lime removers, a suitable method had to be developed. Mineral surfaces were coated with calcium carbonate deposits to simulate limestone and the cleaning agents were applied. The cleaning efficiency was optically measured and planimetrically calculated. The results indicate, that biopolymers, like ι-carrageenan, κ-carrageenan and alginate can increase the ability of organic acids to dissolve calcium carbonate. Sodium alginate has been showing so far the most promising results. In this study also methods to alter the properties of biopolymers were investigated. The chain length of biopolymers was shortened by enzymatic and acidic hydrolysis and its efficiency on the cleaning process and viscosity of the hydrolysates were examined.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergent Testing - New Technologies - New Parameter Definition: The collective term detergents refers to mixtures of various substances in liquid, gel or powder form that are used to clean textiles. They all contain washing-active substances which, in interaction with the exposure time, the temperature of the washing solution and the mechanical processing of the textiles, are capable of dissolving a wide variety of impurities. Many test methods have been developed and optimized over the last decades to evaluate how well detergents are removing stains and soil under various conditions. As textiles get also damaged with the process and technologies evolved it is today also standard to test to which extend different detergents are able to preserve colors and fabrics. But are stains and soil the only impurities detergents are expected to remove? Isn’t a significant part of textiles today just washed because it has been worn and is not as fresh as we would like them to be when dressing ourselves? Consumers clearly express also malodour removal as important parameter assessing the quality of their laundry washing process, but in current detergent testing this is not reflected. Question: How to include this parameter into detergent testing routine? We in Novozymes started investigating how the capability of different detergents to remove underlying malodour can be tested. It is not an easy task as the level of remaining malodour can be small behind the desired smell of a perfume and become obvious only after some period of storage or wearing, but still be very annoying to all of us. Today we will present what we have achieved. Let us move laundry detergents and testing thereof to the next level.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents Stain removal is one of the most important performance tests for laundry detergents. Common testing methods use an advanced stain set which covers the most relevant stain groups like bleachable, enzyme relevant and surfactant sensitive. Test strategies cover either technical or natural stains. Natural stains are preferred in consumer relevant test designs and can be evaluated either by measurement or visual by panel (most comparable with customer experience). Trend in consumer households can influence the selection of stains for testing to reflect cus-tomer habits. Examples can be the use of higher amounts of UV- filters in sunscreens or the growing usage of thickeners in convenience food and in cosmetic products. A definitively missing stain is a consumer relevant body soil stain. The presentation shows an overview about new developments and test designs with example on market available products.
Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents I am surprised at how many households – mine included – don’t follow the latest trends when doing laundry. Liquid detergent has its place for delicates and colors, but for white loads we use only powder. And while some may find single-dose pods convenient, others prefer to add detergent according to load and stain levels. In our presentation, we will take an in-depth look at powder detergents. We will analyze market developments, the volume decline and the latest trends – including changes in those trends arising from the pandemic. We will examine the performance benefits of powder detergents, which mainly revolve around compatibility with actives, and their disadvantages, the main one being slower dissolution resulting in mechanical damage to fabrics. In terms of sustainability performance, the packaging of powder detergents wins out, but mechanical abrasion generates higher levels of microplastics in wastewater. Our tests show that the disadvantages can be mitigated. Creating formulations with better solubility and reduced surface tension can increase the efficiency of a powder detergent. We can reduce the abrasive impact with silicone additives that improve fiber-to-fiber interaction properties. And with better compatibility, we can select the best-performing chemistry. The intelligent, “eco-friendly” washing machines use sensors to make all wash-related measurements – and then automatically dispense detergent even more precisely and carefully. I am convinced that we will see powder detergent coming back to washing machines everywhere.
During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. and also the GDCh organizes a Scientific Poster Exposition. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations