Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Did you know that our skin needs the light to be healthy and produce the essential hormone Vitamin D (the sun vitamin)? Did you know that vitamin D levels are critically decreased due to in-house habits, and an excess of sun protection cream use? Nowadays, VitD levels are very low which is crucial for our health. A topical VitD booster would be a very interesting counteracting strategy to start living in ‘more exposed’ routines. Based on plant cell culture technology, Vytrus has investigated and developed an active that opens a new paradigm in skin ageing: plant stem cell glycoconjugates that stimulates VitD synthesis by optimizing the skin microenvironment. Promoting this optimized microenvironment by a strong spatial organization of cell membranes, light use maximizing, and boosting of water deep reserve. The active is made from Lithops pseudotruncatella cell cultures through the company newest Technology Platform: the Phyto-Glucidic Fractions (PGFs). It ignites the VitD production to compensate the lack of sun exposure and strengthen, revitalize, volumize, and glow the faded skin. Several innovative in-vitro an in-vivo tests have demonstrated a multi-activity and holistic approach in the field of topical VitD synthesis induction: In-vitro tests: -Antioxidant and anti-collagenase activity -Fibroblast proliferation -Induction of VitD and Lumisterol synthesis in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts In-vivo tests: -Skin glow and dewiness boosting (polarized light) -Stimulation of skin-deep layers tissular water (1mm depth) measured by a Hyperspectral camera, the latest in photonic medical device to measure the optical properties of the skin -Evaluation of water retention capacity increase -Normalization of skin respirometry (Oxygen and CO2 production) -Facial volume increase linked to the increasing in water turgor (Active stereoscopy)

Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Skin Care Sunscreens are a still rising cosmetic product category, designed to prevent premature skin aging and the generation of skin cancer. In recent years, new requirements on sun protection and proof of protective capabilities have been established. These are mainly based on the discovery that 50% of the free radicals, formed by solar irradiation, arise in the visible and infrared spectral regions. If skin is exposed to UV/VIS light, up to a dose necessary to produce the optimal amount of vitamin D, predominantly ROS radicals are formed. Any further increase of the dose towards the MED leads to a dominance of lipid peroxide radicals (LOS) which are known to have strong damaging effects. Sunburn starting at one MED represents visible skin damage. Considering the role of free radicals in these processes, sunscreens must go beyond the UV, providing light protection in the complete solar spectrum.. Since there are no colorless filter substances in the VIS/IR regions, a protective function can be created using antioxidants and pigments. Studies on test subjects of the same age (50 years) show that people with a high antioxidant concentration in their skin developed less signs of skin aging than people with a low antioxidant status. Looking at the formation of free radicals in different skin types, it could be shown that people with skin type IV–V exhibit significantly fewer free radicals in the UV region than people with skin type I–III. In the infrared spectral region, it is the other way round. A second methodical trend in sun protection is to replace the human volunteers-based invasive SPF determination by non-invasive methods. Latest developments based on a „photon banana”, permit to detect backscattered light from skin treated with sunscreen and thus to determine the SPF non-invasively.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other Creating an emotional link between the user and the cosmetic product is one of the most powerful ways to build loyalty. At the intersection of neuroscience, computer science and marketing, it involves a multifactor approach including company image, brand values, packaging. Focusing on the formula, color and perfuming are well known as an integral part of the customer's emotional experience. Providing evidence and characterizing the impact of the “nude texture” is more challenging, especially if one seeks to determine the influence of the different ingredients and to identify those driving the emotions. The purpose of this work was to explore different methodologies, using verbal and non verbal measurement techniques, to collect the emotional potential of minimalist skin care formulas and pillar ingredients. Different methods were investigated under the supervision of neuroscience experts, such as prosody and gesture, Sense & Story journey, R3m score©, Innovative electrophysiological real-time evaluation. An innovative in vitro fully human innervated reconstructed epidermis also allowed to investigate nociception and physiopathology response. The results demonstrated that the “nude formula” plays a role on emotional potential and type of emotions generated while changing one ingredient mostly acts on emotions intensity (excipient). Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of ingredients on human skin sensory neurons activity.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other /Hair Care Hair aging is characterized by greying, loss and thinning of hair. It is considered as an aesthetic problem and might cause major psychological distress in affected individuals. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is looking for mild and natural treatment options. We investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum, var. Helvetia,  particularly rich in leontopodic acid), for its ability to work against hair aging. Our data on human hair follicles ex vivo show that the extract is able to significantly prolong the hair growth phase anagen and to increase keratinocyte proliferation in the hair matrix, both associated with hair growth mechanisms. In addition, there was a donor-dependent increase in the hair follicle’s melanin content, suggesting positive effect on hair pigmentation. Regarding anti-hair loss, we performed a 150 day placebo controlled clinical study on Caucasian volunteers (both male and female, age 18-65, 30 volunteers per group). We found a significant increase in hair density (Trichoscan) over time and against placebo formulation (+ 13%, p = 0.0002) which was underlined by an increase in anagen to telogen ratio (Trichogram) (+ 6.7%, p = 0.06 vs placebo), which is in line with the data on hair follicles. In a similar manner, we performed a 120 day placebo controlled anti-hair greying clinical study, on Caucasian volunteers (both male and female, age 18-45, 30 volunteers per group). Trichoscan analysis showed a significant increase of pigmented hairs for the Edelweiss extract over time (+13%, p = 0.020), and against the placebo group (p = 0.026). In summary, we provide evidence that an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB) has a solid hair anti-aging effect ex vivo and in vivo.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other / Skin Care and Skin Health in Times of Changing Lifestyle Frankincense has been used for thousands of years in a wide variety of cultures for its wide range of effects, up to and including medicinal applications, with particular emphasis on its anti-inflammatory properties. A large number of studies showed that an application of 3-O-acetyl-11-keto-β-boswellic acid (AKBA) has strong anti-inflammatory effects and is therefore not only an interesting natural ingredient in cosmetics, but also in the medical field (1). Premature aging of the skin in particular can be due to both external causes such as negative environmental influences (UV radiation, pollutants, chemical irritants) and internal causes such as silent inflammatory processes caused by oxidative stress. Aging and also inflamed skin is reflected in the loss of elasticity, of wrinkling, dryness and a susceptibility to frequent or localized redness as well as discomfort with the sensation of tense or burning skin. The main disadvantage of dermal application of the lipophilic active ingredient AKBA is its low uptake and penetration into deeper skin layers. By encapsulating the frankincense extract in an O/W nanoemulsion, the Lipo-Tops, efficient accumulation even in deeper skin layers was demonstrated six hours after application, favoured by small particle sizes of the Lipo-Tops (2). Furthermore, the stability of the carrier system and of the encapsulated boswellic acid AKBA over a period of three months was demonstrated as well as their biocompatibility as a prerequisite for a safe and non-irritating application on the skin (3). Lipo-Tops Boswellin are suitable for a variety of applications such as care of aging skin, oxidative stress, exceptional skin stress and also in medical skin care. Literature 1. Ammon H.P.T.; „Weihrauch – Anwendung in der westlichen Medizin“  Springerverlag 2018 2. Karl B. et al.; Poster DPhG Tagung Hamburg, Oktober 2018  3. Karl B. et al.; International Journal of Pharmaceutics 587 (2020) 119635

Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Other / Boosting Vitamin C Vitamin C darling in skin care is a great anti oxidant , helps fibroblasts to produce and secrete collagen , in melanocytes it reduces tyrosinase activity .  Vitamin C is desirable for the skin with specific transporters : STVC 1  and  2 . However ascorbic acid ( AA ) is very fragile and can be easily oxidized , therefore deactivated .  Skin has also OCTN 's , seen as carnithine transporters . In fact , OCTN1 ,  present in all cells of the skin and in the nucleus membranes transports Ergothioneine ( EGT ). Is there a synergy between ergothioneine and ascorbic acid ? EGT  is produced by fermentation , reactions and purification . First test was to mix EGT with AA at ratios of 1 to 10 AA , 37 C , 5 hours . Without EGT , ascorbic acid is oxidized in 5 hours but 75 % of ascorbic acid is not with EGT. Alloxan was added to generate free radicals to oxidize ascorbic acid in 3 hours ; 40 % is not oxidized with EGT . A formula ,  after a week  at 45 C ,  with 1%  Ascorbic acid turned yellow but did not adding 0.005 % of EGT .  EGT was added to Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate at 1 % in fibroblasts . 16 hours later there was 3 times more ascorbic acid intact in the cells with or without EGT . EGT / vitamin C at 1 / 100 doubled the production of collagen 1 , multiplied by twelve the production of collagen 3 compared to no use of EGT . EGT / Vit C at 1 for 100 on melanocytes cut melanisation in half compared to no use of EGT .  These experiences confirmed the synergy and boosting of EGT on Ascorbic Acid.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other Cannabidiol (CBD), a major phytocannabinoid found in Cannabis sativa L., has gained increasing interest in the world of cosmetics. Unlike tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), another cannabinoid found in hemp plants, CBD is not psychoactive and offers numerous health benefits, including anti-anxiety, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties as well as the potential to reduce pain sensation, nausea, and seizures. In the skin, CBD exert effects on pain sensation, inflammation, and the regulation of epidermal homeostasis. Whereas the biochemical function of CBD is well understood for systemic applications, the effects in topical applications are still less clear. In our own studies, we looked at the gene expression in skin explants after treatment with CBD and could not identify any modulation of specific mechanisms. A combination of CBD and Swiss Stone Pine (Pinus cembra) extract containing high concentrations of Pinosylvin, however, showed synergistic effects on anti-inflammatory and tissue regeneration activities in keratinocytes. In a clinical study, using a CBD nano-emulsion combined with the Pinosylvin-containing extract we found a smoothing effect with a reduction of skin roughness and wrinkles induced by the relaxing properties of the treatment. Moreover, the treatment with CBD and Pinosylvin improved the skin tone by reducing haemoglobin and melanin levels in the skin, an effect that can be attributed to the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of these compounds. Thus, the topical application of CBD or combined synergistic treatments with CBD result in further beneficial and visible effects on the skin that are based on the anti-inflammatory and soothing nature of CBD.

Visit the virtual booths in the virtual exhibition and listen to the "Exhibitor Slots" in room 1-4.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Fragrance is a decisive factor for consumers when purchasing home and personal care products due to the experiential element it adds. However, consumers' growing interest in health and wellbeing will create additional scrutiny over the fragrance components in the products they buy over the coming years. Brands and products can adjust their messaging around fragrances to take into account these consumer concerns, but can also communicate the wider benefits that fragrances can provide to help people in their everyday lives. By doing so, brands can encourage people to see greater value in the products they offer. By identifying what consumers want from their products, and why, we can predict the fragrance trends of the future set to unfold in home and personal care space.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Olfaction is the most primitive sense and is closely linked to brain areas that control memory and emotions. In this regard, odours directly affect our behaviour and mood and, consequently, is a decisive factor in the acceptance or rejection of all kinds of commercial products. Scents are of extreme importance in companies’ branding strategy for creating strong emotional bonds with customers. The characterization of sensorial properties is therefore crucial in product development and optimization. Odours are constituted by (semi-)volatile chemical compounds that, when released by products during unpacking, application, etc., cause an olfactory sensation. Our sense of smell is capable of converting the chemical signals of these molecules into perception. The human nose is very sensitive and detects extremely low concentrations of these compounds, even below the detection limits of advanced analytical techniques. Furthermore, laboratory instruments are not able to interpret how the smell of products is perceived by consumers. For this reason, a wide range of sensory analysis methods are used nowadays to evaluate the performance and perception of consumer products. Depending on the aim of every particular study, sensory tests can be complemented with high throughput instrumental analysis, such as gas chromatography and mass spectrometry with an odour port (GC-Sniffing-MS), for example to identify and quantify the presence of specific wanted or unwanted odorant molecules. The present communication provides an overview on the implementation of joint sensory and chemical approaches for the odour characterization of personal and home care products. State-of-the-art methodologies on the evaluation and performance of specific products based on odour descriptive analysis, quantitative studies, hedonic testing, discriminative assessment, and on the identification of volatile organic compounds via GC-Sniffing-MS are discussed. Some case studies on the strength of integrating sensory assessment and chemical analysis are also presented.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Money and perfume, in their capacity as both material and immaterial substances, have certain similarities. Neither is really tangible; both are volatile substances and in part, symbolically reinterpreted. Like perfume, money works on the level of relationships, that is, the interactions between people. In the digital era especially, money appears as an omnipresent, material absence; perfume is ethereal, just as present as it is intangible. The conceptual artwork AERARIUM makes it possible to experience this philosophical association between perfume and money. However, AERARIUM refers not only to the airily-volatile but also to its opposite: bronze, which is aes in Latin. Because AERARIUM was the name given to the ancient Roman treasury, the AERARIUM POPULI ROMANI. This first recorded tax office stored the so-called movable national property of Rome. In Karlsruhe, AERARIUM occupies one of the structural elements that characterize the new tax-office building, achieved in spring 2021. The individual glass bottles were produced in the presence of the artist at in the Black Forest. An artistic multiple, inscribed with a unique engraving. The flacons on display contain AERARIUM, a fragrance composed and produced in collaboration with Andreas Wilhelm, a Zurich perfumer, and can be purchased exclusively at Karlsruhe tax office. It is a very special perfume, which smells like freshly printed banknotes. AERARIUM is only available here, at Karlsruhe tax office which appears as a perfumery. People no longer (only) visit to get their tax queries answered, but also to smell and acquire AERARIUM. AERARIUM is a commissioned art project by the Art Committee of the State of Baden-Württemberg and will be available and on display for many decades. The lecture takes the form of a laboratory discussion between the artist Katharina Hohmann and the perfumer Andreas Wilhelm.

Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care Our presentation at the SEPAWA® CONGRESS 2021 will deal with the predicted requirements and regulative measures of the “EU Chemical Strategy for Sustainability” to be considered by our member companies. After an overview providing the major cornerstones and the state of the art of the debate the assumed consequences for the supply-chains of the cosmetic and of the detergent industry will be outlined.

Visit the virtual booths in the virtual exhibition and listen to the "Exhibitor Slots" in room 1-4.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Other The market share of biosurfactants is expanding rapidly due to commitments from major formulators to replace €billions/annum of surfactants with biosurfactants and due to favourable characteristics for use in personal care and household cleaning products. In particular, many biosurfactants have antimicrobial, moisturizing, controllable foaming and are 100% biodegradable. At present biosurfactants tend to be used in high end products due to their relatively high production cost. We present results from the development of a novel gravity based integrated separation technique for the controlled production and in situ separation of glycolipid biosurfactants during fermentation. This technique has enabled us to increase productivity to >5.5 g l-1 h-1 and titer to > 1200 g l-1, initially for sophorolipid biosurfactants. We present results from the scale up of this technology to full precommercial pilot plant scale. We have demonstrated our technology with two additional biosurfactants, and identified its suitability with a range of biosurfactants, enabling dramatic reductions in production costs. This technology platform is set to make biosurfactants an economically viable alternative to traditional surfactants across a range of industries, including the home cleaning sector where sophorolipids are already in commercial use.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Care Agents In the past years, market offering of laundry detergents has evolved in many ways. First, format has moved from powder to liquid and then toward monodose detergents. Then, accentuated by COVID-19 pandemic, e-commerce offering has also grown with a myriad of options available. For consumer, while detergent offerings have increased, the main criterion for choice remains cleaning efficiency. In addition, organic, sustainable, greener claims have a stronger impact now on consumer decision. Also, consumers are looking for more sustainable approach about clothes consumption and looking for extending life of their clothes. Overall, caring for consumer laundry should be a comprehensive package including cleaning performance from sustainable ingredients, fiber longevity, and sensorial benefits like perfume and softness. From laundry manufacturers & active suppliers perspective, the challenge is now to maintain performances with the development of biodegradable, bio-sources actives bringing secondary benefits at affordable cost. The first part of the presentation will detail the multiple challenges that exists to bring sensorial care to textiles from laundry detergent like the high dilution factor applied to the laundry additive, the complexity of laundry formulation, interaction between ingredients, or compaction. Finally, the rinsing, spinning and drainage during the washing program tend to prevent persistency of actives on fibers. In the second part of the presentation, technical routes to maximize benefits in laundry will be addressed. One way to apply suitable active to laundry surface will be to use deposition aid.  In this direction, adjusting the molecules to bring smart deposition and avoid side deposition of dirt will be key. Once in contact with laundry fabric, another way to improve performance is to get persistency of the active on fabric and avoid complete removal that may occur in rinse and spin phases of the laundry processes.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents The development of sustainable surfactants and additives for automated dishwashing (ADW) can be a tedious, time- and resource consuming development process. The standardized dishwasher-test, although irreplaceable and necessary, is not suited to effectively test the plethora of sustainable alternatives to common ADW additives and surfactants. To create a more sustainable and effective research effort we established numerous effective pre-screenings based on well-established and recent scientific findings. These pre-screenings determine the physical properties of surfactants and link these to effects desired in automated dishwashing, like plastic drying and water drainage from glassware. These highly desirable effects can be linked to two characteristic physical properties of a surfactant, the influence on the contact angle on a certain surface and the surface tension.  The testing for drainage capabilities and therefore the suitability as a rinse aid in ADW is done by static and dynamic surface tension measurements. These tests are done in a two-stage manner, in which, with a simple dynamic measurement the suitability of the surfactant is determined and in a second step the effectiveness is investigated by more in depth temperature and concentration dependent measurements. In order to investigate the ability of a surfactant or additive to accelerate the slow drying process of plastic-ware in the dishwasher we use dynamic contact angle measurements on treated substrates. The process of automated dishwashing is simulated inside a beaker with test-substrates, which are afterwards characterized using dynamic contact angle measurements.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergent Testing - New Technologies - New Parameter Definition: The collective term detergents refers to mixtures of various substances in liquid, gel or powder form that are used to clean textiles. They all contain washing-active substances which, in interaction with the exposure time, the temperature of the washing solution and the mechanical processing of the textiles, are capable of dissolving a wide variety of impurities. Many test methods have been developed and optimized over the last decades to evaluate how well detergents are removing stains and soil under various conditions. As textiles get also damaged with the process and technologies evolved it is today also standard to test to which extend different detergents are able to preserve colors and fabrics. But are stains and soil the only impurities detergents are expected to remove? Isn’t a significant part of textiles today just washed because it has been worn and is not as fresh as we would like them to be when dressing ourselves? Consumers clearly express also malodour removal as important parameter assessing the quality of their laundry washing process, but in current detergent testing this is not reflected. Question: How to include this parameter into detergent testing routine? We in Novozymes started investigating how the capability of different detergents to remove underlying malodour can be tested.  It is not an easy task as the level of remaining malodour can be small behind the desired smell of a perfume and become obvious only after some period of storage or wearing, but still be very annoying to all of us. Today we will present what we have achieved. Let us move laundry detergents and testing thereof to the next level.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents Stain removal is one of the most important performance tests for laundry detergents. Common testing methods use an advanced stain set which covers the most relevant stain groups like bleachable, enzyme relevant and surfactant sensitive. Test strategies cover either technical or natural stains. Natural stains are preferred in consumer relevant test designs and can be evaluated either by measurement or visual by panel (most comparable with customer experience). Trend in consumer households can influence the selection of stains for testing to reflect cus-tomer habits. Examples can be the use of higher amounts of UV- filters in sunscreens or the growing usage of thickeners in convenience food and in cosmetic products. A definitively missing stain is a consumer relevant body soil stain. The presentation shows an overview about new developments and test designs with example on market available products.

Lecture Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents I am surprised at how many households – mine included – don’t follow the latest trends when doing laundry. Liquid detergent has its place for delicates and colors, but for white loads we use only powder. And while some may find single-dose pods convenient, others prefer to add detergent according to load and stain levels. In our presentation, we will take an in-depth look at powder detergents. We will analyze market developments, the volume decline and the latest trends – including changes in those trends arising from the pandemic. We will examine the performance benefits of powder detergents, which mainly revolve around compatibility with actives, and their disadvantages, the main one being slower dissolution resulting in mechanical damage to fabrics. In terms of sustainability performance, the packaging of powder detergents wins out, but mechanical abrasion generates higher levels of microplastics in wastewater. Our tests show that the disadvantages can be mitigated. Creating formulations with better solubility and reduced surface tension can increase the efficiency of a powder detergent. We can reduce the abrasive impact with silicone additives that improve fiber-to-fiber interaction properties. And with better compatibility, we can select the best-performing chemistry. The intelligent, “eco-friendly” washing machines use sensors to make all wash-related measurements – and then automatically dispense detergent even more precisely and carefully. I am convinced that we will see powder detergent coming back to washing machines everywhere.

During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V., DGK e.V. and also the GDCh organizes a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations

During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. organizes an Application Oriented Poster Exposition. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations