Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
The Forum for Innovations gives the companies the chance to present their products and services to the visitors of the SEPAWA Congress. The focus is mainly on modifications, innovations and developments of products, processes and active agents.
Spoken Language: English
09:00 - 09:30
A Sustainable Formulation Approach for Shampoo's and Conditioners
Bert Kroon, Ashland Industries
Spoken Language: English One of the routes to deliver more sustainable products in personal care is to develop more sustainable formulations. This can be achieved by considering the 1) the choice of origin of the raw materials, 2) their impact in the formulation e.g. improving bioavailability of actives or reducing ingredient levels and 3) the impact of the ingredient on the use of the product e.g using less water to rinse or faster drying. In this presentation the focus will be on following aspects : - improving the bioavailability and delivery of anti-dandruff actives - reduction of upto 40% of the surfactants in shampoo's and body washes by adding a low amount (< 0.5 wt%) of an effective naturally derived foam boosting polymer - reduction of upto 50% of the surfactants in conditioners while maintaining the gel phase behaviour through the addition of a low level (< 0.3 wt%) of a naturally derived structuring agent The approaches have been translated into formulations and validated instrumentally and through sensory evaluations. The approaches make the formulations more sustainable as well as allow formulators to improve current products regarding actives delivery, sensory profiles and faster rinse, reducing the water consumption.
Spoken Language: German Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI) is a three-year long integrated program aiming at developing sustainable guar production within the Bikaner district in Rajasthan, India. This desert district is one of the largest producers of guar in India. Guar gum is extracted from guar seed and can be used as such, or functionalized. It is for example used as a bio-based thickening agent in personal care products. SGI was set up by Solvay, L’Oréal, HiChem and the NGO TechnoServe, and is based on 4 themes: 1. Agronomy: enhancing sustainable practices for rain-fed guar production, 2. Environment: groundwater-neutral approaches and best practices in guar farming, along with tree plantation, 3. Social impact: gender approaches, nutrition, health & hygiene and 4. Market improvement: traceability, supply chain and market access. The blockchain technology project was launched in India in 2017 - two years after the start of the Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI) making it the first blockchain project to be launched on a soft commodity involving real on-field users in India. The objective of this project is to record every transaction that happens throughout the entire value chain. The Group built a private blockchain that includes all stakeholders throughout the guar value chain. All actors in the chain, from the farmers in India to Solvay employees in Vernon, Texas, are being asked to record their transactions in it. Traceability of the origin of our natural feedstock is a critical requirement to sustainable sourcing and the use of the blockchain technology is a digital, flexible, and secure solution that enables us to store and record transactions. This is a real differentiator for the SGI initiative.
Spoken Language: German The principle of safety assessment of cosmetic products was anchored in the European Cosmetics legislation. The responsible person is required to establish a comprehensive assessment of the product safety for human health. For this task a safety assessor has to be appointed who is personally responsible for the safety of a cosmetic product. For the safety assessment the toxicological profiles of all ingredients and the exposure conditions to be expected must be taken into due account. For the professional qualification of the responsible safety assessor the legislator has specified certain minimum requirements. Such an education may, however, not be sufficient as for the competent assessment of the safety of cosmetic products interdisciplinary knowledge is required, in particular in the fields of chemistry, toxicology, dermatology and (cosmetics) law so that the corresponding person must engage in specific continuing education in these fields. DGK and IKW have developed continuing education courses for safety assessors in German and English since 1998. Structure and content of the courses are regularly updated. More emphasis was placed on their orientation towards practice. The lecturers for these courses are highly qualified experts from the respective disciplines from universities, public authorities and industry, including, for instance, several members of the Cosmetics Commission of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) or the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety). This educational concept is unique and finds a lot of acceptance worldwide. The regularly offered cycle of courses consists of seven individual courses of two days in each case. At the end of each course the learning contents are checked by a written test (participation on a voluntary basis). A corresponding certificate for the attended course is issued. After successful participation in all individual courses, the overall participation is confirmed. For more information consult www.safetyassessor.info
11:00 - 11:30
Synergy in Preservation – Exploring Natural-like Elements for Antimicrobial Efficacy
Paul Salama, SHARON Laboratories Ltd.
Spoken Language: English The current trend in cosmetic preservation is leaving the formulator with less and less options, only facing a fast shrinking pool of compounds of interest. There is an ongoing search for acceptable, and even desired, preservation. The personal care industry continues to seek natural, mild yet effective and affordable preservative systems. As the development and registration of totally new synthetic preservatives are generally considered as unattractive and cumbersome in terms of cost, time and consumer perception, one avenue offered to R&D activities is to boldly optimize the use of already authorized compounds. In that vein, the identification and exploitation of synergistic effects between hand-picked compounds constitute a fruitful approach. Through the presentation of several case studies, the multi-advantages of synergistic systems will be exemplified. One area of focus will be natural-like solutions. There is a constant search for green preservation systems, but the existing options do not necessarily meet the formulator’s needs in terms of efficacy, compatibility, safety, regulatory and even cost. This presentation will discuss the new uses for materials which can be found in nature, and how they can be put to use as antimicrobials. We will also address the role of cationic surfactants as enhancement for such solutions, and thus bringing the best features of a natural ingredient, with the safety, quality and consistency of the lab.
11:30 - 12:00
Sustainable Gifts of Nature to Control Epigenetic Mechanisms, e.g. Resynchronize the Skin's Circardian Clock and Other effects
Dr. Nora Schiemann, IMCD Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: German Biological activities are scheduled around a 24-hour cycle. The related cicardian rhythm regulates critical body functions such as cell regeneration and sleep-wake cycles. These regulatory functions can be disrupted by external factors. Understanding e.g. CLOCK gene mechanisms (Nobel Prize Award in 2017) has been key to develop very effective anti-aging strategies in cosmetic science. Important is the control of gene expression. This can also be done by plant RNA. The epigenetic mechanisms involve modifications of the activation of certain genes, but not the structure of DNA. External supplements, e.g. skin care formulations can restore these essential body functions. Important is to have a win-win-effect, using natural and sustainable ingredients to obtain the desired effect. Specific Peptides e.g. from hydrolyzed Yeast Protein have been discovered to boost skin's regenerative processes, to protect and maintain the functions and integrity of skin. Unique plant RNA from sustainable natural extracts taken from the Tree of Life in Africa can be used to maintain the epigenetic homeostasis and resistance. Various applications in skin care, face care and body care are possible, also and most important in natural cosmetics.
Spoken Language: German Water is becoming an increasingly scarce resource. The need to handle it with care is also getting more and more apparent to industrialized nations. At the beginning of the year the water supply in Cape Town, South Africa, had to be drastically rationed. Today significant amounts of water are used for cleaning and all over the world people are working to reduce this consumption. The extension of cleaning intervals, of course without quality losses, is one possible solution. Cleaning with functional proteins that form a hydrophilic protective film is known to facilitate this. Thus, conventional liquid detergents can be equipped with easy-to-clean effects to significantly extend cleaning intervals and thereby reduce the use of chemicals and water requirements tremendously. A consistent further development of this concept allows to reduce the amount of water present in the application to almost zero. Instead, mops and microfiber cloths are used, which are pre-soaked with protein-containing cleaning agents. These proteins form a film on the surface that protects like a second skin. By utilizing the equilibrium moisture content of the protein layers, enough water is already present on the surface during the cleaning process to ensure the removal of dirt particles. This effect increases with subsequent cleanings. In addition, the surfaces are better protected against pollution. Buses and trains are already being cleaned with this method. The cleaning results and quality corresponds to that of a conventional automated car wash. Further advantages are the high flexibility in terms of time and location and the fact that it can be used both outdoors and indoors. Of course, the concept can also be transferred to the household sector or other commercial applications. The benefits that come with it, as well as the reduction of chemicals consumption, time savings and cost reduction are also interesting for countries that have no water shortage.
09:30 - 10:00
New Eco-friendly Surfactant to Generate Thick and Long Lasting Foam
Marie-Françoise Chirac, SEPPIC
Spoken Language: English In many industrial applications, foam characteristics are essential to achieve the targeted performance. One of the main difficulties is to obtain simultaneously quick foam development, high foam volume and sufficient stability. To meet this challenge, a fully biobased and eco-friendly foaming agent was developed, using biodegradable and non-ecotoxic materials as well as a sustainable manufacturing process, without any solvent. The purpose of this work is to demonstrate the performance of this innovative foaming agent, combining optimum foam generation, a low drainage and a long half-life. Moreover, its viscous foam increases both the interaction with the substrate and stain removal, without the need of further additive, that reinforces its environmentally friendly profile. These properties enable a versatile usage in applications such as detergency and other applications such as firefighting, drilling...
10:00 - 10:30
Volatile Surfactants: Characterization and Areas of Applications
Dr. Larisa Tsarkova, Moscow State University
Spoken Language: English The research aiming at the development of experimental and theoretical basis of the interfacial behaviour of volatile surfactant will be presented. As non-conventional volatile surfactants we study commercially available compounds such as synthetic perfumes, essential oils, terpenes. Typically such light amphiphilic compounds possess a distinct odour, and have low to negligible solubility in water. In contrast to basic physico-chemical properties, e.g. boiling temperature, solubility, partition coefficient, such properties of volatile amphiphiles as polarity, volatility and interfacial activity are not systematically studied and therefore are not available in handbooks and databases. A distinctive feature of volatile amphiphiles is that they provide low dynamic values of the surface tension. Also they can act as plasticizers for fabrics, plastic and hair. On the other side, in contrast to conventional surfactants, volatile amphiphiles evaporate from air-water interface, so that the static surface tension increases with the surface age time on a time scale of seconds. Using facile and low cost measurements such as static and dynamic tensiometry, we systematically evaluate valuable information on the adsorption-desorption rate of volatile surfactants which is not straightforward to evaluate using even more complex analytical techniques. Several examples of experimental database of characterized volatile surfactants with established “structure-property-function” relationship will be presented. This methodological approach is further developed to disclose dynamic interactions of volatile surfactants with other components of detergent and cosmetic formulations. Due to their high surface activity, volatile surfactants are envisaged to be useful in processes and technologies which involve newly creating interfaces at the time scales of milliseconds and below, such as spraying, coating technologies, laundry, stabilization of emulsions in cosmetic and food industry. The research is supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (RFBR), research project № 18-53-76005.
11:00 - 11:30
Improving Enzymes for Laundry Applications using Protein Engineering
Christian Lundager Gylstorff, Novozymes
Spoken Language: German The use of enzymes in commercial laundry detergents is dependent on the benefits that these can deliver in wash, but also on enzyme being stable in the detergent formulation. The development of enzymes with a sufficient stability is a challenge particularly for liquid detergent formulations, and for these, it is often necessary to make subtle changes to the enzyme itself through a process known as protein engineering. Recent technological advances in the use of robotic systems and methods for identifying enzyme variants have allowed for a stepchange in our ability to optimize the performance and stability of an enzyme for a specific laundry application. The use of advanced data analysis and 3D modeling furthermore enhances our ability to arrive at an optimal solution for the detergent producer, thus bringing the environmental benefits of low-temperature, high-performance cleaning to consumers worldwide. Despite the significant progress in the field, we still occasionally face trade-offs in the development process, and it therefore remains an art to develop enzymes that perform well, are ultra-stable and can be produced in amounts that enable the inclusion in a wide range of the laundry segments. The presentation will outline the main methodologies for optimizing the performance and stability of enzymes. We will discuss the general principles of protein stability, and exemplify these with data from the recent development of very stable proteases for liquid laundry detergents.
11:30 - 12:00
Applications and Sensory Performance of Acrylate Based Fragrance Encapsulation
Ben Sales, Ashland
Spoken Language: English Fragrances can stimulate emotive responses from everyday products. They can give the perception of wellness, freshness and cleanliness. Personal and home care products strive to achieve long lasting fragrance to engage the consumer and increase these emotive responses. Feeling clean and fresh builds confidence and energizes the consumer. Fragrance encapsulations in various forms have been used in personal care and household products for many years to give long lasting fragrance as well as fragrance activation on demand. Fragrance release on demand can stimulate the senses and enhance the consumer experience. However existing and benchmark technologies each have certain drawbacks in terms of stability, performance, and global acceptance. This presentation will demonstrate how the latest acrylate-based fragrance encapsulation technology can deliver results that surpass current benchmarks, using globally acceptable materials. The data presented is based on expert consumer panels showing sensory performance and demonstrates performance verses benchmarks in home care applications. Ben Sales is the business development manager in the encapsulation unit, global key account manager, and the new product leader for developing encapsulation technologies at Ashland in the United Kingdom. He brings 20 years of experience in the field of encapsulation with principal areas of expertise in complex coacervation and extrusion based technologies. Ben holds a BSc in chemistry from Exeter University in the UK and is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists in the UK.