Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
08:30 - 09:00
Optimisation of Microbial Synthesis of Cellobioselipid Bio-surfactants using Ustilago maydis
Fabian Haitz, Fraunhofer-Institut für Grenzflächen- und Bioverfahrenstechnik IGB
Spoken Language: German Cellobioselipids (CLs) are microbial glycolipids and as such belong to the family of bio-surfactant compounds. They have a number of interesting physical and chemical properties, are biologically very active and exhibit promising emulsifying properties. The antimicrobial activity of CLs against Gram-positive bacteria has previously been demonstrated in independent clinically relevant isolates of Staphylococcus sp. . Moreover, their antifungal activity against Candida albicans has also been reported (Kulakovskaya et al. 2004, Teichmann et al. 2007, Mimee et al. 2009). These unique biological characteristics, make CLs ideal candidates for use in cosmetic applications fulfilling a dual role as both emulsifier and preservative (Morita et al. 2011). Despite CLs considerable potential, they are currently not produced commercially on a large scale. To address challenges relating to the microbial manufacturing process, we identified establishment of a stable microbial CL production process and improvement of space-time yields as first priorities. The current focus of our research group is therefore to optimise the efficiency of the CL microbial production process, using the Ustilago maydis fungus. Ustilago maydis glycolipid formation is particularly relevant as this strain synthesises CLs in the absence of any extraneously added hydrophobic carbon sources (e.g. vegetable oils). This means that bio-surfactant synthesis only requires the addition of a sugar substrate, which in turn saves on additional substrate costs and at the same time simplifies the manufacturing process. To optimise microbial CL production, we systematically evaluated a number of factors and determined the magnitude of their effects on CL production. Optimised process conditions were identified by evaluating the effects of a number of variables such as pH, nitrogen and sugar sources as well as the ratio of different culture media components. Different processing approaches were also compared. By choosing appropriate process conditions, we were able to considerably increase CL concentrations achieved and thereby significantly increasing space-time yields. We are currently focused on establishing a CL fermentation process from lignocellulose hydrolysed sugars produced from agricultural bi-products superfluous to requirements of the food industry.
09:00 - 09:30
Is the Prevention of Vector Borne Diseases with Repellents for Mammals and Pets in Contradiction to Social and Environmental Sustainability?
Bettina Magsaam, Merck KGaA
Spoken Language: German Maximal contribution to sustainability in Personal Care Products is the responsibility for everyone participating in the chain of product creation. A major challenge though for products in the category of Insect Repellents is: Protect the health of the consumer, protect the environment and give contribution to all social aspects of responsibility. Best achievement of this objective will be the complete harmonization of all the three concerned key aspects - health of people, eco-friendly and cultural aspects - to combine in effective Repellents: Complementary measures of prevention from vector-borne diseases: A long-term and safe protection of people from mosquito and tick bites to safeguard from life-threatening infections like Lyme disease, Dengue Fever, Malaria and many more. Safety for the environment: Repellents, that neither accumulate nor persist in the environment advantaging other substances. Safety for consumers of all generations: Product authorization allows the use on humans of all ages and multiple repeated application per day. We will introduce various facts to convince you about an outstanding sustainability and health driven concept of an insect repellent. In a nutshell: Scientifically validated efficacy studies proofing e.g. superior long-term protection of 9 – 11h against several species of ticks, like ixodes scapularis, ricinus and persculatus, utilizing formulations with a low chemical load of a biodegradable active substance offering all-day long protection fulfilling social aspect and sustainability demands. Having these data on hand for mulators can create excellently tolerable products for infants, pregnant women and the elderly generation with a sensitive skin. At the same time the environmental protection is ensured, but not at the risk of a shorter protection time or a restricted amount of use.
09:30 - 10:00
Polyurethanes for Sustainable Formulations: Why Not?
Dr. Laurence Pottié, Covestro Deutschland AG
Spoken Language: German Today’s cosmetic products consumers expect ever increasing performance and new sensorial experiences, for which synthetic polymers are a real asset, when not an essential constitutive ingredient, as for example in the case of Hair Styling products. However, consumers not only look out for performance but are also watchful about lowering the environmental impact of their daily routine. In order to accordingly improve the sustainability of their formulation, cosmetics brands have to select within an abundant offer of ingredients of very variable characteristics. In case of polymers in particular, there is often a lack of clear and relevant information regarding the environmental impact of these raw materials. Within the many parameters that can be determined the biodegradation and the level of renewability are key factors to assess properly the footprint of an ingredient. While the biodegradation can be measured using well established methods, the definition of natural ingredients in relation with their sourcing and processing has been defined only very recently in a new ISO Norm (ISO 161281). In this presentation we will introduce key features of polyurethanes in term of sustainability and explore their unique potential in the current and future polymer landscape. After giving some input on the influence of synthetic parameters on the resulting biodegradation level, we will discuss how the right balance between sustainability and performance can be achieved. To do so, the physico-chemical properties of polymers containing various bio-based building blocks will be reviewed as well as their performance in different type of formulations.
10:15 - 10:45
Complex Organic Molecular Structures for a Time – the Phenomenon of Biodegradability and Its Ecological Dimensions
Dr. Ralph Weyandt, CRS CPCH BioServices, SGS INSTITUT FRESENIUS GmbH
Spoken Language: German Biodegradability plays a key role in the global carbon cycle, and is therefore, based on standardized test designs, part of an environmental risk assessment in different legal frameworks. The biodegrading process itself depends on the chemical characteristics, the environmental influences resp. the milieu conditions, and the potency and activity of the microflora, which has been a black box concerning diversity and interaction up to a few years ago. Modern molecular genetic methods nowadays allow more and more a much deeper understanding of the microbial degradation process and could be an essential part of future test strategies.
10:45 - 11:15
Novel Facial Color Mapping Technology Makes Hydration Visible
Dr. Volker Rosenberger, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd
Spoken Language: English City life is an amazing experience, full of opportunities, but our skin is under constant attack. Every day, indoor and outdoor stress negatively affects the skin’s natural hydration, causing it to dry out much faster. The key needs of skin exposed to urban stress are fast-acting and long-term hydration with targeted care for problem areas. With the help of Chinese women living in the highly-polluted megacity of Beijing, DSM scientists has been using its revolutionary visualization technology to study dry skin and hydration in urban settings. This technology allowed us to produce color images of the face, that showed Chinese women have excessively dry skin in the problematic cheek and jaw areas. Remarkable images also revealed the true hydration power of DSM’s natural moisture-magnet Saccharide Isomerate, an unique skin-identical carbohydrate complex. Three hours after a single application, excessively dry skin areas are already much better hydrated. Used daily, the Saccharide Isomerate provides powerful hydration to all facial areas.
Spoken Language: German Even 2500 years ago, the Middle East – being the region between Europe and Asia – was the most important region in the world, according to the Greek historian Herodot. At the same time, he was fascinated by its great diversity. Today, the region is in the limelight yet again, especially for Europe, its neighboring continent. Refugee flows, chaos and terror show how the Middle East and the entire world order up to now collapses before our very eyes. But a new order is already being created. Antonia Rados has known this important region for 3 decades. She has seen developments on site that hardly make the headlines. She describes her impressions, analyses the situation and explains the role the Middle East has for the future of Europe.
Spoken Language: German
Spoken Language: German Former German Chancellor Helmut Schmidt once said, “Anyone who has visions should see a doctor.” Today, if you don’t have visions, you should see an undertaker: There’s no alternative to continuous innovation! Learn why business models must be regularly questioned, why market leaders are in danger of missing the train to the future and why brainstorming radical ideas is a must – and not just a nice option. Silicon Valley insider and innovation expert Gerriet Danz shows in his talk how you look beyond the currently possible and develop innovative business cases, that turn your industry upside down. By making intelligent use of technologies, the future of personal and home care provides businesses with opportunities to create value greater than we can imagine today.
Take a break from two exhausting days at the congress and enjoy some extraordinary food and a bit of entertainment at our popular After Event. Fresh, Delicious, Live We have treated your nose to a Fragrance Fashion Show at the Get-Together, now we can embark on an exceptional culinary delight. After an official opening and award ceremony for the SEPAWA Innovation Award, the Estrel’s head chef Peter Griebel and his team will be presenting culinary treats from around the world. Entertainment? Certainly! Only we won’t tell you exactly what we have prepared for you this year. Or will we?! One thing is sure though, it’s going to be hot! SM!LE “The Hottest Band in Town!“ will put a smile on your face with more than 1,300 song titles and lots of zest for life. They play all different kinds of musical styles, from dance music from all over the world, the big hits of the Funk and Soul Era, fiery Reggae rhythms, the all-time favorites of the golden age of Swing, the party groove of the Sixties and Seventies up to the top charts. There’s something there for everyone! As always, you can look forward to an exciting evening.
The Forum for Innovations gives the companies the chance to present their products and services to the visitors of the SEPAWA Congress. The focus is mainly on modifications, innovations and developments of products, processes and active agents.
IFRA Standards – the Fragrance Industry’s Self-Regulatory Approach
Dr. Matthias Vey, IFRA - International Fragrance Association
Spoken Language: German The IFRA Standards have a longstanding history since 1973. Over the time there have been a number of changes and improvements. The upcoming 49th Amendment will be another milestone and the presentation will provide details on new tools and procedures applied in the 49th Amendment. There will further be information on relevant scientific and advocacy activities IFRA is engaged in, especially in the area of sensitization and alternatives to animal testing.
The Nagoya Protocol and Access and Benefit Sharing Regulations: Challenges for the Fragrance and Flavor Industries
Dr. Cécile González, IFRA - International Fragrance Association
Spoken Language: English The Nagoya Protocol is a legislative framework aiming to implement the 3rd pillar of the Convention of Biological Diversity (CBD), which refers to the fair and equitable sharing of benefits derived from the utilization of genetic resources and their associated traditional knowledge. Each country ratifying the Nagoya Protocol must establish rules for access and/or benefit sharing, which is leading to a complex and diverse set of regulatory requirements for users. IFRA and IOFI, through their working group, raise the awareness of their members to comply with the legal requirements of these legislative framework by providing support and guidance, as well as monitoring of global developments.
Smelling Beyond the Nose: Expression and Physiological Function of Extranasal Olfactory Receptors
Prof. Dr. Dr. Dr. med. habil. Hanns Hatt, Ruhr-Universität Bochum
Spoken Language: German Olfactory receptors (ORs) are not exclusively detectable in the olfactory epithelium but are also expressed in all other body tissues tested so far such as brain, heart, lung, testis, intestine, and skin. The number and types of present ORs seems to be specific to the respective tissues. Within these tissues, a specific subset of ORs can be found with some of the ORs being exclusively expressed in only one specific nonolfactory tissue and other OR subsets being more widely distributed throughout different tissues of the body. However, the function of only a minor portion of ectopically expressed ORs could be revealed to date. It is assumed that extranasal expressed ORs, which are nothing but highly specific chemosensors, play a role in the regulation of cell–cell recognition, migration, cell proliferation and differentiation or chemotactic behaviour. Additionally, they are attributed to have potential as diagnostical and therapeutical tools as ORs are differentially expressed in pathological tissues (e.g. cancer tissue). Besides the canonical signaling pathways of ORs, as found in the olfactory tissue, alternative pathways are activated in the diverse nonolfactory tissues. Evidence accumulates that ORs take over specific tasks in nonolfactory cell types which might be explained by the enormous discriminating capacity of this biggest gene family in the human genome. Massberg D.and Hatt H. Physiological Reviews 2018 98, (3),1739 - 63 Human olfactory receptors:novel cellular functions outside of the nose
Allergen Labelling - Practical Approach and Background Information
Dirk Beuster, IFF Fragrance GmbH
Spoken Language: German The labeling of allergens is well established in the EU. Allergens which are listed in Annex III of the cosmetic regulation must be labeled in the ingredient list. We will make available details how the industry provides the information from the raw material to the final fragrance. Further we will give an introduction of the work of the German Association of the Fragrance Industry (DVRH).
"Natural” and “Organic” in Cosmetic and Related Products and Ingredients
Prof. Dr. Prof. Dr. Wladyslaw S. Brud, Brud Pollena-Aroma Ltd
Sponken Language: English Words „Natural” and „Organic” are more and more used on labels, advertising, publications, press etc. to describe special qualities of cosmetic, household and related products as well as ingredients used for their production. This very strong trend, in last decades, is based on majority of consumers belief that products based on raw materials of natural origin are better and safer than those derived from chemical synthesis, especially based on petrochemicals. The main problem in this issue is that neither of the two terms is precisely defined especially in relation to products of cosmetic and household industry. “Natural cosmetic” may mean anything what creative marketing can imagine. Although there are some works performed to clarify that doubts, economy behind production and certification of this group of products does not support the idea. This however creates very ambiguous situation on the market and which is more important in legislation both internal created by industry and official issued by governments and international bodies.
08:30 - 09:00
Comparison of Criteria Applied by Diverse Certification Systems for Renewable Raw Materials
Horst Fehrenbach, ifeu - Institut für Energie- und Umweltforschung Heidelberg GmbH
Spoken Language: German The aim of a research project commissioned by the German Federal Environmental Agency (UBA) is to expand the target spectrum of the "Blue Angel" eco-label to the field of bio-based substances. The main focus was on developing solutions for the evaluation of specific environmental aspects of bio-based substances with a focus on sustainability and resource conservation through renewable raw materials. The crucial questions were: How to ensure the sustainable use of the limited resource area and a good life cycle balance? And: how to judge the origin of the biomass in particular with regard to the protection of high-quality natural areas? For the environmental assessment of the products, the supply chain must therefore be included. The verification of compliance with such requirements for products can usually be done via certification systems. One of the key tasks of the project was to evaluate such systems for possible suitability. In order to meet the requirements of the strong environmental label “Blue Angel”, a checklist based on the standard ISO 13065:2015, "Sustainability Criteria for Bioenergy", was developed for an ambitious assessment of the certification systems. We concluded that only the RSB comprehensively met the criteria among the selected and extensively studied systems. The criteria of the ISCC PLUS, RSPO and RTRS are largely but not completely fulfilled. For the wood sector, the FSC and PEFC are considered suitable. In order to ensure the principle of traceability, the use of purchased certificates based on Book & Claim is excluded. Proof of purchase of raw materials or semi-finished products is based on segregation or mass balance. The issue of land use change must also be addressed beyond certification, unless the system proves that biomass production is based on an approach that ensures a low iLUC risk. If this is not the case, the level of actual land-use change in a country of origin of the biomass feed should be considered as additional criterion for awarding of the Blue Angel. For this purpose, methodological proposals were developed.
Spoken Language: English The European Commission has decided in 2011 to become the first bio-based economy. In the following the EU issued a mandate (M/491) to CEN to develop a standard on bio-based surfactants among other product groups. A new working group within CEN was created to deal with the standardization process (CEN/TC-276 WG3). The working group issued the technical specification CEN/TS 17035 published in April 2017. CEN/TS 17035 specifies the thresholds on the biogenic carbon content (5%, 50% and 95%) and the naming as well as the methods to determine the content of biogenic carbon (e.g. radiocarbon method according to EN 16640). Our approach on the environmental and societal criteria will also be explained. The working group will finalize the European Norm (EN) and a Technical Report (TR) in 2018. The results will be presented. The standard might be used in European ecolabels and in public procurement.
09:30 - 10:00
Cosmetic with “Free from…” -Claims, Actual Situation and Examples
Sebastian Fischer-Rombach, SeFiRo Consulting
Spoken Language: German Cosmetic products have always been presented using an abundance of advertisement claims. While previously, the German Cosmetics Regulation and the Act Against Unfair Competition (Gesetz gegen den unlauteren Wettbewerb, UWG) were consulted to judge such claims, today the Regulation (EC) on Cosmetic Products No 1223/2009 as well as the Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 regulate such claims. Also in 2013, a guideline as an explanation for this regulation was issued, which however has since been withdrawn and replaced by the “Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims”. The meaning of this document and its impact especially on the so-called “free from” claims will be explained in this presentation. Examples are used to illustrate when “free from” claims may constitute a denigration and which criteria need to be considered for such claims regarding the requirements of the “Technical Document”.
10:15 - 10:45
EU Commission's Plastics Strategy
Werner Bosmans, DG ENV, Circular Economy and Green Growth
Spoken Language: English
Spoken Language: English Intentionally added microplastic particles are known to be used in a range of products, such as in certain cosmetics and personal care products, detergents and cleaning products, paints and others. Microplastic particles provide many functionalities in final applications as well as in product design. However, intentionally added microplastic particles can be released to the environment and may contribute to environmental litter, leading to a concern that their use may pose a risk to the environment and human health. This lecture will give an update and some considerations about the regulatory and technical background and implications.
15:30 - 16:00
Legislation for Biocides, Cosmetic Products and Detergents: Borderline Cases
Susanne Hardt, Dr. Knoell Consult GmbH
Spoken Language: German The Biocidal Products Regulation (BPR – Regulation (EU) No 528/2012) applies to biocidal products, with the exception of, amongst others, products that are regulated by other regulations such as cosmetic products as defined and covered by the Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR – Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009). There are, however, products on the market which not only have a biocidal, but also a cosmetic function and hence, it may be difficult to classify these products as either a biocidal product or a cosmetic product. In these borderline cases, the decision on a product’s classification has to be taken on a case-by-case basis. In principle, the primary function of the product will determine the regulation for which the product has to be dealt under. It is, however, possible that cosmetic and biocidal products are regulated through both the CPR and the BPR. Products like sunscreens containing an insect or jelly fish repellent active substance may serve primarily for cosmetic purposes but at the same time serves for an equally important biocidal purpose. This product will therefore have to be regulated by the cosmetics legislation with regard to its cosmetic purpose and by the biocides legislation with regard to its biocidal purpose. The Detergent Regulation (Regulation (EC) 648/2004) deals with detergent products and cleansing agents. These products may in addition contain a biocidal active substance, like e.g. a quaternary ammonium compound. Biocidal substances are incorporated into detergent products to give them antibacterial, antimicrobial, disinfecting or sanitizing properties. In case these products have a biocidal claim, they must comply with the Detergents Regulation and the BPR (dual use).
16:00 - 16:30
Phosphonate Input into the Aquatic Environment
Oliver Happel, DVGW Technologiezentrum Wasser (IZW)
Spoken Language: German "The annual phosphonate consumption of around 10,000 t in Germany is approximately equally divided between household and industrial applications. A large part of it is discharged into the wastewater after use. Despite their low biodegradability, high degrees of elimination are found in sewage treatment plants (STP). Due to the challenging phosphonate analysis, only few data have been published to date. The research project ""Phosphonates in detergents and cleaning agents - UFOPLAN 3715651410"" was carried out in order to create a data basis for the entry into the environment. In order to quantify phosphonates, ion chromatography was coupled to tandem mass spectrometry and labeled Internal Standards were implemented. Solid samples were extracted with a solution of sodium hydroxide and nitrilotriacetic acid using heat and ultrasound. Before analysis, the nonuniform metalligand complexes are broken down via a strong cation exchanger and transferred into the free phosphonic acids. The monitoring was carried out at two STP sites with ten samplings conducted during one year. Individual stages of wastewater treatment within the STPs were also investigated. In addition to the phosphonates, further metadata (flow, pH, solids content, temperature, total phosphorus, etc.) were included in the monitoring. It could be determined that up to the secondary clarification stage the phosphoant elimination is in the range of 80% to 90% (dissolved concentration between 200 µg/L and 300 µg/L in the STP influent). It also became clear that a high proportion of phosphonates is adsorbed on solid particles (loads within the lower to medium mg/kg range) in the STP and in surface water. The compounds HEDP and PBTC were detected with the highest concentrations in all matrices. In both receiving rivers, significantly increased phosphonate concentrations were found in the sediment downstream of the STP discharge points. Concentrations in the dissolved phase were in the lower µg/L range. "
17:00 - 17:30
Factors Influencing the Microbial Reduction in Dishwashers
Britta Brands, Rhine-Waal University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: German According to Sinner’s circle, the factors time, mechanics, temperature and the surfactants determine the cleaning performance in automatic dishwashing but at the same time influence the reduction of the microorganisms. Reduced water amounts and lower cleaning temperatures are commonly used these days which may lead to higher numbers of microorganisms on the cleaned surfaces. In this study, the duration of the main cleaning cycle and the cleaning temperature were systematically investigated in a typical household dishwasher.
17:30 - 18:00
Methyl Esters Sulfonate: A High Performing Surfactant Enables the Possibilities of Builders’ Reduction
Dr. Yee Seng Lim, KLK Oleomas Sdn Bhd
Spoken Language: English Detergency performance of α-MES in different water hardness condition was investigated and its cleaning performance was compared against current surfactant leader of Home Care market, LAS. Results demonstrated that MES has higher soil removal index, and its soil removal capability do not affect drastically with the increase of water hardness relative to LAS. Furthermore, incorporation of MES improved the cleaning performance of surfactant mixtures, as well as rendering the surfactant mixture stay functional at higher water hardness level, due to specific structure characteristic of MES that allows the molecule to be relatively insensitive towards polyvalent ions such as Ca2+ and Mg2+. Additionally, washing performance of MES, MES/LAS and LAS with different builders at various dosages had been study, of showing the possibility builders’ reduction with the application of MES in formulated product. Based on the result, powder laundry detergent contain MES were formulated with reduced builder dosage. Washing performance of powder laundry detergent contains MES permit builders’ reduction of up to 10 %, showing the effectiveness and cost effectiveness of MES.