Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
09:00 - 09:30
New Approaches for Understanding the Interaction of Material Surfaces and Biology
Dr. Timo Hammer, Hohenstein Laboratories GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: English Surface modifications are a powerful tool to optimize the interaction between materials, such as metal, plastics or textiles and their enviroment. In many cases the aim of modification is to change the surface properties towards biological systems. For example materials can be made antimicrobial in order to prevent the formation of biofilms and biofouling. In other scenarios, the attachment of living organisms is intended, like the attachment of cells in medical implants. Sometimes we want to make a surface resistant against something, e.g. preventing pollen from attaching to a curtain, and sometimes we want strong attachment, for example binding odor molecules to a surface in order to make them not smellable. Whenever these modifications are made on medical devices or if living organisms are controlled with biocides, the products underly strong regulations and clear evidence for biological safety and efficacy is needed. Smart practical test scenarios are very helpful to prove concepts and principles, but also to support marketing claims without running into high costs of in vivo-studies. The presentation shows examples of state-of-the-art tests, for example for quantification of substance removal from surfaces, biofouling, cleaning and disinfection of devices, etc.
09:30 - 10:00
"Schizophrenic" Micelles from Doubly and Orthogonally Switchable Block Copolymers
Prof. Christine M. Papadakis, Technische Universität München, Physik Department
Spoken Language: English "Introduction Based on diblock copolymers, we designed “schizophrenic” micellar systems by combining a nonionic block, which is thermoresponsive, with a zwitterionic block, which is both, thermoresponsive and salt-sensitive . Compared to the classical amphiphilic block copolymers, these feature many more possibilities for smart transport and delivery purposes. As the non-ionic block, we chose thermoresponsive polymers exhibiting lower critical solution temperature (LCST) behavior in aqueous solution. Their cloud point depends mainly on the chemical nature, but only weakly on molar mass and salt concentration. The zwitterionic block is a polysulfobetaine which features upper critical solution temperature (UCST) behavior with the clearing point depending on the chemical nature, molar mass and salt concentration. Altering the chemical nature of the two blocks and their molar masses allows controlling the relative position of the clearing point of the zwitterionic block and the cloud point of the nonionic block. This way, we have identified different types of phase behavior in dependence on temperature and NaBr concentration (see an example in Figure 1). Combining turbidimetry and small-angle neutron scattering, we have found that the overall phase behavior corresponds to expectations. However, mutual interactions of the two blocks have interesting effects. For instance, the transition temperatures are shifted. Moreover, below the UCST, no core-shell micelles are formed, but rather homogeneous intermixed micelles. We shall report on the structural investigations of this complex system in dependence on the chemical nature of the two blocks and the composition. References: 1) N.S. Vishnevetskaya, V. Hildebrand, A. Laschewsky, P. Müller-Buschbaum, C.M. Papadakis, et al., Macromolecules 49, 6655-6658 (2016), Macromolecules 50, 3985–3999 (2017) and Macromolecules 2018 ( DOI: 10.1021/acs.macromol.8b00096) "
10:00 - 10:30
Strategies to Control the Adhesion to Solid Surfaces Using Polyzwitterions
Prof. Dr. André Laschewsky, Fraunhofer-Institut für Angewandte Polymerforschung (IAP)
Spoken Language: English Solid surfaces in aqueous environments are prone to the nonspecific, irreversible adsorption of material at various length scales, from molecules to (micro)organisms. Surface contamination by this phenomenon, often referred to as “fouling”, is a serious problem for a multitude of applications. It may alter the interfacial properties of a given substrate profoundly (such as wetting or friction), lead to material as well as sensoric deterioration (visual appearance, odor, hygiene), or severely impede its function, as e.g. in the case of piping, sensor devices, or medical implants. A classical strategy to combat fouling is the use of biocides, which however are effective only against organisms, and which may pose serious problems (as toxicity issues) by their own. An alternative approach to minimize unspecific adsorption is the use of polymer coatings that either impede the adhesion process, or and/or favor the desorption of unwanted material once adsorbed ("fast-release", "easy-to-clean"). However, the performance of such protective coatings depends on the specific contaminating species as well as on the particular frame, and varies strongly with apparently small changes of their chemical structure. Although reliable rules for tailoring effective low-fouling materials are missing, thin hydrogel films seem to be particularly apt for such coatings. Some general features, such as strong hydration as well as the minimization of hydrophobic, self-consistent hydrogen bonding or charged fragments, seem to favor antifouling behavior. In fact, two polymer classes seem to excel, namely strongly hydrophilic nonionic polymers and polyzwitterions., which both we explore with respect to their antifouling potential. In particular, we modulate systematically the nature of the ionic groups grouped into the zwitterionic moiety, as well as the overall architecture of the latter. The thin polymers films are applied onto the surfaces by spin-coating, and fixed by photo cross-linking through reactive groups that are incorporated by copolymerization. Consequently, we also study the influence of the cross-linking and tethering density on the fouling behavior. Moreover, we address the problem of endurance and possible degradation during extended use, including strongly acidic or basic conditions as encountered in many cleaning procedures.
11:00 - 11:30
Awkward or Sticky? Ways to Tune the Interaction of Bacteria with Surfaces
Prof. Dr. Jochen Gutmann, Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West gGmbH (DTNW gGmbH)
Spoken Language: English Effective cleaning of surfaces is often a complex multi-component problem. This is especially true for the removal of bacteria from surfaces. In order to amplify the cleaning performance, active surface coatings can be used to make the surface more or less sticky to bacteria. Since most bacterial surfaces are in contact with humidity, lubricant infused slippery surfaces are a facile way to tune adhesion. An anti-stick functionality is especially important for, colony forming bacteria may circumvent an antiadhesive surface function via the formation of a biofilm. To fight a biofilm formation an additional antibacterial effect of the surface would be beneficial. Commonly such an antibacterial effect precludes the formation of a slippery surface. In this talk we will present a general route to the formation of surfaces in which the degree of stickiness an antibacterial effect is tunable. We will show how such a surface can be rationally designed and how issues concerning long term stability in aqueous media can be addressed.
11:30 - 12:00
Amphoterically-Modified Biopolymers for Hydrophilization of Surfaces
Dr. Holger Türk, BASF SE
Spoken Language: English Polymers for modification of various surfaces are well known in the detergent & cleaner industry for many years. By variation of the monomer composition, polarity, charge density and the overall macromolecular architecture, either a hydrophobization or a hydrophilization of a surface, potentially accompanied by a surface charge reversal, can be achieved. Modification of surfaces is an important tool to improve the performance of a cleaning formulation. Since other raw material ingredients of such products like surfactants, chelating agents or builder polymers have a different mode of action (i.e. act predominantly in the washing liquor), a combination with surface modifying polymers can lead to superior cleaning results, e.g. spot-free bath surfaces or shiny dishes. Glass is a critical surface regarding the visual appearance of spots and scale films. We present here our approach for the design of a tailored surface modifying polymer. The final target molecule, an amphoterically-modified biopolymer, exhibits very strong hydrophilization properties, thus leading to very low contact angles on glass. Automatic dishwashing (ADW) application tests demonstrate the positive contribution of the biopolymer. Very good build-up performance, i.e. reduced precipitation of complex inorganic & organic residues on glass after several wash cycles, is obtained if the tailormade polymer is combined with an efficient chelating agent and an anionic polymeric dispersant in an appropriate cleaning formulation. Model experiments on glass plates give insights into the mechanism of surface modification, especially under typical ADW conditions. Characterization of the surfaces by different physico-chemical methods like XPS, SEM, QCM, UV-VIS spectroscopy and electrokinetic measurements confirm the role of the biopolymer for reduction of scale build-up. Based on these results, a hypothesis for the mechanism of action of the new polymer in combination with other cleaning ingredients will be introduced.
12:15 - 12:45
From UV to Near-Infrared: Photon-Based Upgrading of Hard and Soft Substrates with Diverse Coatings
Prof. Dr. Bernhard Strehmel, Hochschule Niederrhein, Fachbereich Chemie
Spoken Language: English Photopolymerization has received increased interest for the modification of surfaces with diverse coatings to protect the substrate against chemical attack, dust, pollutions or mechanical wear. This requires to embed functionalized materials taking the function of an UV absorber to avoid acceleration of aging by too much sunlight, the improvement of scratch resistance by functionalization of particles, the possibility to generate surface with oleophobic properties to avoid dirt uptake, the possibility to make surfaces with anti-microbial properties or just to refuse the consumption of dust by incorporation of polymers with anti-static properties. This may partially work with UV radiation but requires an open optical window for exposure, which many functional materials cannot provide. Thus, application of UV initiated photopolymerization would be out of scope for some applications. This presentation selects examples derived from hard and soft surfaces. This can be wood, metal, plastics, paper or textiles – just to count a few possible examples. Near-infrared radiation (NIR) can be an alternative to overcome the disadvantages of UV radiation. The use of NIR radiation possesses several benefits. This is the significant lower scattering of photons compared to UV light, the opportunity to embed functional materials covering the absorption in the UV and visible part, and the capability for excitation with semiconductor cwemitting NIR-lasers enabling the possibility for spatial-resolved excitation. This also addresses the necessity to develop robust and reliable exposure sources for spatial controlled exposure. This can be either compact NIR-LED devices or modulated NIR lasers emitting between 750-1100 nm. While lasers were already well established in industry, the development of industrial NIR-LED devices can be seen as a certain challenge to expose large areas keeping in mind that such devices should require air cooling. In addition, NIR-LEDs emitting at large areas can be seen as an alternative for selective introduction of heat into films. A NIR-LED device was available as new compact prototype exhibiting an emission at 805 nm with outstanding intensity. Development of NIR-LED devices covering other regions in the NIR are under construction. Several systems comprising an absorber/sensitizer and radical initiator were evaluated regarding their capability to crosslink multifunctional (meth)acrylic derivatives in combination with such new NIR-LED devices. Specific structural motifs in the polymethine moiety move the system in physical and/or chemical drying. NIR sensitive systems based on polymethines or upconversion nanoparticles (UCNPs) also function well as sensitizing systems with NIR radiation sources. These materials can generate blue and UV light upon exposure with NIR lasers exhibiting line shaped focus at 980 nm. In addition, NIR sensitizers are also applicable to function in photocatalytic systems for controlled polymer synthesis using [Cu(L)]2+ at ppm scale (L = ligand that brings Cu2+ into the system). This gives access to blockpolymers with narrow dispersities using a photoreactor equipped with four NIRLED arrays emitting at 790 nm. Particular polymethines comprising a barbital group in the mesoposition successfully worked in this framework. In general, this synthetic way may be applicable to manufacture crosslinked materials with narrow distribution of network junction distance. This will also open new opportunities in material sciences where photochemistry uptakes a key function. In addition, it also enables the possibility to synthesize tailor-made polymers bearing UV-active groups or surface active moieties into block copolymers. 1) C. Schmitz, D. Oprych, C. Kutahya, B. Strehmel, ""NIR Light for Initiation of Photopolymerization"", in ""Photopolymerisation Initiating Systems"", Eds.: J. Laleveé, J.-P. Fouassier, RSC, in press, 2018. 2) C. Kütahya, C. Schmitz, V. Strehmel, Y. Yagci, B. Strehmel, ""Near‐Infrared Sensitized Photoinduced Atom‐Transfer Radical Polymerization (ATRP) with a Copper(II) Catalyst Concentration in the ppm Range"" Angewandte Chemie International Edition 2018, early view"
Spoken Language: English
14:30 - 15:00
What can Microgels do for Protection and Dispersion
Prof. Dr. Martin Möller, DWI – Leibniz-Institut für Interaktive Materialien e.V.
Spoken Language: English
15:00 - 15:30
Presentation of GDCh Division Group Award, Oral Presentation of the Young Academics Award Winner
Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, Chairwoman of the GDCH Division of Detergency and Formulations
Spoken Language: English
16:00 - 16:20
Mixing Microemulsion Droplets with Polyelectrolytes: Complexes with a High Solubilization Capacity
Miriam Simon, TU Berlin, Institut für Chemie
Spoken Language: English Oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsion droplets are thermodynamically stable liquid systems that allow to have a rather high content of hydrophobic material dispersed in aqueous solution, which otherwise could not be dissolved. Further, (O/W) microemulsion droplets have a well-defined spherical structure with low polydispersity, which renders them good model colloids. In that context, mixtures of charged microemulsion droplets and oppositely charged polyelectrolytes are very interesting systems, as the polyelectrolyte is able to bridge different droplets which allows further structural control on the microemulsion. Accordingly, we studied the interactions of positively charged O/W microemulsion (ME) droplets that already contain a substantial load of solubilized molecules with negatively charged polyelectrolytes. In our experiments we varied size of the droplets, the type and Mw of the PE as well as the mixing ratio between both, quantified by the charge ratio z = [-]/([+]+[-]). Based on a thorough determination of the phase behavior and employing small-angle neutron scattering (SANS; see Fig. 1a) it was possible to obtain a detailed characterization of the formed complexes in terms of size, shape and composition. By using pulsed field gradient NMR (PFG-NMR) and neutron spin-echo (NSE; see Fig. 1b) it was possible to investigate the diffusional behavior of free microemulsion droplets as well as of droplets immobilized in the complexes and gain insights into the dynamic aspects of such mixed colloidal systems. By combining the static and dynamic results, we obtained a comprehensive picture of the formed complexes and how their detailed structure depends on their molecular composition, as well as the interactions prevailing here. These aggregates serve as a model system for complexes with a high solubilization capacity that could find potential applications in formulations which contain a large amount of hydrophobic agents and with controlled internal mobility, both required for optimized delivery.
16:20 - 16:40
Characterization of Self-Assembled Surface Active CO2/EO Compounds in Aqueous Solution
Vivian Spiering, TU Berlin, Institut für Chemie
Spoken Language: English The ethoxylation of fatty alcohols is the established synthesis route for the production of nonionic surfactants. This group of products covers more than 50 % of all worldwide consumed surfactants, because of their wide spectrum in aggregation and adsorption properties. The essential physical properties of these surfactants like surface activity and aggregation behavior which can easily be varied by the choice of the fatty alcohols and different degrees of ethoxylation, or an approach which enables the introduction of a variable number of internal carbonate groups. As a consequence, the chemical properties of the headgroup can not only be varied by the length of the polyethylene oxide chain, but also by the ratio of the EO and CO2 units within this chain. In this study we present the characterization of these CO2 containing surface active compounds with respect to their colloidal properties, surface activity, and their self-assembly behavior, and this as a function of temperature. Compounds with different CO2 content and alkyl chains are compared here in a systematic fashion also to their commercial alkylethoxylate counterparts. The surface-active behavior is characterized via surface tension measurements, which also allows to determine the critical micellar concentration (CMC) and additionally the calculation of thermodynamic parameters. Furthermore, the HLB values are determined to give a detailed information about the application potential. Finally, the micellar structure was characterized by dynamic (DLS; Fig. 1 B) and static (SLS) light scattering as well as by small angle neutron scattering (SANS), where the data gives detailed insights into the mesoscopic organization. From the scattering data a consistent picture of the micellar structure as a function of concentration as well as of the temperature can be obtained (Fig. 1 A). This structure is in general depending on the length of the EO chain and the CO2 content and therefore the understanding and comparison of the shape and structure is crucial to understand the influence of the CO2 unit.
16:40 - 17:00
Uncommon Structures in Hyaluronate/Surfactant Complexes
Sebastian Bayer, TU Berlin, Institut für Chemie
Spoken Language: English Hyaluronate is a very abundant material in the human body. It is one of the main constituents of the synoval fluid, but also found in large quantities in the extracellular matrix. There seems to exist a pronounced dependency of the length of produced hyaluronate on the activity in the body. As a very bio-orthogonal polyelectrolyte, it is also vastly used in cosmetics and medical applications. In all these cases, hyaluronate is rarely found isolated, but in complexes with other (charged) species, such as other polyelectrolytes, lipids or artificial surfactants. Consequently, for our study, we used cationic tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide (TTAB) in complexes with HA, as this surfactant is well studied and oftentimes used in formulations. We employed light-, neutron scattering and cryo-TEM measurements in order to get an insight on the parameters that govern the structure of these complexes. We found that, while there is interaction between the polyelectrolyte and the oppositely charged surfactant, neither the surfactant micellar structure nor the structure of the HA network seems to be affected in a big fashion. Instead, the micelles seem to arrange around the HA and form loose solvent-rich superstructures that depend on the concentration and length of HA. This findings allow for rational design of polyelectrolyte-surfactant complexes with desired properties for e.g. drug delivery. SANS and cryo-TEM data (left) as well as proposed structure (right) of the studied HATTAB-complexes.  Cyphert JM, Trempus CS, Garantziotis S., International Journal of Cell Biology. 2015;2015:563818. doi:10.1155/2015/563818.  Buchold P, Schweins R, Di Z, Gradzielski M, Soft Matter, 2017, 13, 2253  Buchold P, Gradzielski M, in preparation
Spoken Language: English Inspired by the growing trend of “clean beauty” and minimalist formulations, Rheostyl™ E is a new line of multifunctional polymeric emulsifiers combining the benefits of traditional emulsifiers with the benefits of polymers: - Powerful emulsification, smooth texture and unique sensorial - Flexibility of formulation, easy process and water resistance Rheostyl™ E are liquid polymers that can be processed in cold conditions at low shear rate with a standard blade. All kind of oils can be emulsified with no limit in oil loading. Once the emulsion is formed, the stability is unlimited against coalescence thanks to a very strong anchorage of the polymers at the oil/water interface. A wide palette of textures and sensorial can be created with the two first products of the line Rheostyl™ E-Light and Rheostyl™ Cream. Rheostyl™ E-Light is dedicated to formulate thin and sprayable emulsions with light and fresh feel as Rheostyl™ E Cream can build higher viscosity and provide a rich and cushion sensorial. The polymeric nature of Rheostyl™ E allows to develop ‘emulsifier-free’ formulations recommended for sensitive skin and provides an outstanding water resistance with a nude skin finish.
09:15 - 09:30
Fermentoil - Glycolipids Application on the Natural Cosmetics Oil through Biotechnology
Curtis Kang, HARKE Chemicals GmbH
Spoken Language: English Oil is essential cosmetic ingredient, which improves film forming and moisturizing on skin. However, in the practical application, customers due to its greasy feeling did not welcome natural oil. Formulators and Researchers have been studying various ways to apply natural oil in cosmetics; we found fermentation makes feeling of oil much lighter. The change is made through glycolipids produced by Pseudozyma epicola SY 16, which is a patented microorganism. Pseudozyma ep. produces free fatty acid and glycolipids by changing the structure of triglyceride and fatty acid during fermentation. To evaluate active effects and lighter feeling of Fermentoil (oil after fermentation), we conducted the various tests to see the changed factors of texture and nutrition affecting to skin and the emulsification capacity to be used for cosmetics application eventually. In conclusion, Fermentoil, comparing with the state before fermentation, has less-greasy feeling thanks to decreased surface tension, has the higher emulsifying capacity while giving the tremendously higher free fatty acid value by glycolipids.
09:30 - 09:45
Rheological Studies on the Influence of Waxes on the Stability Behavior of W/O Emulsions
Dr. Holger Seidel, Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Spoken Language: German For the formulators w/o emulsions are challenging in many respects. Various waxes are used to improve the stability and to adjust the rheological properties of w/o emulsions. Thus, in a metastable test emulsion with a mixed polar oil phase viscosity and stability are dramatically dependent on the type and amount of wax used. It is known that the crystallization behavior of the wax can be greatly impaired by introduction of energy during the cooling process of such a w/o emulsion. It is obvious that emulsifier and oil phase composition significantly determine the crystallization of the wax in the outer emulsion phase. With the aid of oil phase rheology in the oscillation experiment, these influences become visible and allow conclusions to be drawn about such critical temperature ranges during the cooling process.
09:45 - 10:00
FLUIDIFEEL™ EASY: The Natural Emulsifier for Fast, Sensorial and Fluid Formulations
Bettina Barlog, Seppic GmbH
Spoken Language: German Having trouble formulating sensorial, natural and stable fluid cosmetic products answering global needs? No more worries! We used our expertise in the chemistry of lipids to create our new O/W green and MB* emulsifier and make this challenge easier for you. *No need to heat the formula ingredients: save 60% time and 95% energy compared to a classic hot process. *Stabilizes all types of fluid formulations, from sprays to lotions and wipes. You can include actives, pigments, sun filters and all types of oils. *Highly resistant to electrolytes. Let your creativity go and FLUIDIFEEL™ will make it EASY! (*BVC-RSPO-1-1972708497)
10:00 - 10:15
Dow’s Toolbox of Optical Appearance Solutions
Anne-Marie Vincent, Dow Silicones Belgium SPRL
Spoken Language: English Silicones have been used in the personal care market for decades to deliver unique sensory experiences together with optical appearance benefit such as mattifying, sebum absorption and lately soft focus in anhydrous formulations like primer, make up base. Today Dow continues to expand its tool box of optical materials with three water dispersible solutions that can be formulated into hydrogel type of formulation. The targeted population is not anymore the aging population alone, but it is extended to the new generation of consumers (Z generation and Millennials) who are looking for a perfect “selfie” look and seek for products that have an immediate effect. They want solutions that enable a natural skin tone and flawless look; minimize the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles and reduce shine. DOWSIL™ EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder (INCI : Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Silica ; DOWSIL™ 9509 Silicone Elastomer Suspension (INCI : Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 Pareth-12 ) ; and EcoSmooth™ OptiTouch ( INCI : Ethylene/Octene Copolymer (and) Ethylene/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) are three water dispersible solutions that bring sebum absorption, skin mattifying, and soft focus benefits,minimizing pores and wrinkles imperfections in hydrogel and oil-in-water formulation chasses. The products can be formulated alone to bring immediate pores and wrinkles masking or be combined with DOWSIL™ SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax to bring long lasting wrinkle masking benefit up to at least 6 hours in oil-in-water formulations. An innovative Mobile App has been developed as a new tool to help recommend the best optical appearance solutions per targeted benefits. This tool allows customers to find quickly the best products or combination of products that can match the desired optical appearance benefits in diverse type of formulations ranging from anhydrous, water-in-oil, oil-in-water and hydrogel formulations. ™ Trademark of The Dow Chemical Company (“Dow”) or an affiliated company of Dow.
10:15 - 10:30
Beautifully Innovative – Achieving Personalized Textures with Multifunctional Products
Petra Kudla, Momentive Performance Materials GmbH
Spoken Language: German Concepts of beauty are ever changing and constantly evolving. The most exciting trends indicate that individualism, customization and accentuation of diversity are driving product innovation. Consumer desire for simplified, yet personalized, skin care and color cosmetic products challenges formulators to utilize multifunctional, high performance ingredients that offer a range of options for developing innovative products. Momentive’s Silsoft* E-Pearl PMF emulsion and Velvesil* E-Gel PMF emulsion, Cosmetics Design’s Global Beauty Industry Award winners in 2017 and 2018, respectively as well as its newest innovation, Silsoft EAU microgel, can help meet these consumer trends. The simple, yet effective, use of these ingredients at low dosage levels aims to change the product sensory experience without adding complexity to the formulation. Good pigment dispersion, long lasting moisturization and soft focus benefits, along with a water-fresh skin feel are just a few of the possible attributes that can be achieved by using these innovative, multifunctional ingredients. *Silsoft and Velvesil are trademarks of Momentive Performance Materials Inc.
11:00 - 11:15
Bicohair®: a New Technology to Protect the Hair against Environmental Aggressions and Damages of Modern Lifestyle
Rosana Saldana Medina, KREGLINGER EUROPE N.V.
Spoken Language: English The daily exposure to pollution and solar radiation coupled with daily care procedures such as the use of hair dryers, iron devices, dyeing and bleaching procedures can generate broken, brittle, dullness and colorless hair fibers. An effective product to adequately protect the hair from damages coming from environment and modern lifestyle needs to offer high coverage and capacity of penetration in the hair fibers in order to treat both external and internal structures of the hair. Bicosome is an innovative delivery platform successfully used to target delivers active ingredients in the skin. This technology has been redesigned to massively adhere on the hair fiber and to promote the penetration of actives into the hair and was named Bicohair. Bicohair is formed by a dual structure containing an external vesicle responsible for the hair adherence and protection of the hair shaft, and internal smart disks responsible for the penetration and for nourishing internally the hair with active molecules and lipids. In this study, we performed different experiments in order to evaluate the capacities of Bicohair. Hair samples (virgin, bleached, or dyed) were treated with Bicohair system and exposed to hairdressing procedures, such as ironing and bleaching and to environmental stress such as pollution and solar radiation.
Spoken Language: German For centuries vegetable oils and butters have been part of the beauty ritual. Recent research with consumers shows that more than 1/3 of women worldwide use hair oil at least 3 times a week. 63% declares “My hair has lost its protection, it cannot resist external aggressions”. In addition, about 73% of consumers say: "It makes me feel good when I buy a product that respects people and naturalness."  These statements confirm the importance of products based on vegetable oils and butters for hair care. SymOleo® Vita7 was created thinking in these consumers, which looking for different experiences through the same product. Enriched with a selection of precious and nourishing vegetable oils and butters the product is a unique fatty acid composition from sweet almond, avocado, olive, cotton, soy oil, cocoa and mango butter. In addition to presenting several benefits such as a protective elixir against damages, detangling effect, volume and frizz control, this composition can be explored as a single elixir through the 7 ingredients that compound this formulation, or bring the individual benefits of each ingredient, becoming a wildcard compound for companies seeking the benefits of botanical for their formulations. Formulations of shampoo, conditioner and combing cream taking 1% of the SymOleo® Vita7 offer a considerable improvement to the hair: Improving the protection of the hair structure by 56%; Increasing the resistance to breakage by 12%; Improving combability up to 44% and; Demonstrating a volume and frizz control over the drying process. All results supported by statistically representative efficacy tests.  SOURCE: CMI Data Source: Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients consumer data base.  SOURCE: UEBT Biodiversity Barometer- Ed. 2017/Basis: All sample – France, Germany, UK, USA and Brazil
11:30 - 11:45
Naturally-derived Film Former forSuperior Hair Styling Properties. Why Not?
Astrid Wulfinghoff, Covestro Deutschland AG
Spoken Language: German Film formers are key ingredients to provide hair hold & manageability in styling formulations. End-consumers do look for more sustainable hair care products, but are not ready to compromise neither on their performance nor on their sensory. Covestro’s new bio-based film former Baycusan® eco E 1000 opens new perspectives for formulators offering natural hair care formulations with high performing styling properties as synthetic polymers do. Containing over 50% of carbon from plant biomass, Baycusan® eco E 1000 fulfills the definition of a derived natural ingredient according to the ISO 16128-1. It opens new routes towards sustainable and high-performing formulations and allows formulators to circumvent natural polymers that often lack performance and the desired sensorial properties. Easy-to-formulate, this naturally derived water-based film former is a versatile solution for innovative hair care formulations with superior properties. Baycusan® eco E 1000 excellent humidity resistance provides best hair manageability and frizz control. Its unique flexibility imparts an elastic hold for bounce and well-defined curls. Besides, its outstanding thermal stability enables to develop hair styling formulations providing protection against heating devices. Hair care formulations containing naturally-derived Baycusan® eco E 1000 polymer give a natural & not tacky feel on hair without any flaking /or build-ups. Choose Baycusan® eco E 1000 film former for an optimal balance between ingredient naturality and performance!
11:45 - 12:00
Oilkemia™ 5S Polymer, Versatile Oil Soluble Rheology Modifier For Enchanting Sun Care Textures
Laure Dupin, Lubrizol
Spoken Language: English OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer, the new launch from Lubrizol, is a multifunctional oil soluble rheology modifier for sun care formulations that enhances the alchemy between cosmetic ingredients and active oil components to create enchanting textures. It delivers superior viscosity or emulsion stability, with flexibility to create diverse forms, from thin oil gels, through mild emulsions. The polymer offers superb clarity in a wide range of oils and emollients, maximizing visuals in a broad range of oil systems. This technology is compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters and also delivers uniform, targeted application for optimized protection in sun care applications. OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer provides sensory enhancement with a pleasant soft powdery afterfeel, mitigating the oiliness or tackiness of others ingredients such as for instance UV filters.
12:15 - 12:30
Sunscreens of the Future can Provide Spectral-Homeostasis Protection
Uli Osterwalder, Sun Protection Facilitator GmbH
Spoken Language: German In 1991 Diffey proposed the sunscreen concept of aiming to reduce total sunlight exposure, rather than selectively modifying the spectrum absorbed by the skin. At that time most sunscreens had a rather low SPF and protected mostly against UVB radiation (290320nm). We now know about the damaging effects of UVA radiation (320-400nm). Uniform reduction of both UVB and UVA, referred to as “spectral homeostasis” shielding, assures that the natural spectrum of sunlight is attenuated without altering its quality, like the protection afforded by a neutral density filter like densely woven textiles or shade. Such a uniform extinction curve at high level of UV attenuation is only possible with efficient UVA filters. Meanwhile, broad-spectrum UV filters such as Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, (MBBT) and BisEthylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) became available world-wide except for the US. Combining these filters with the classic ZnO can now achieve sunscreen performance close to spectral homeostasis. We have combined 21% zinc oxide, 1% BEMT, and 9% MBBT and achieved in vivo performance: SPF 50 and UVA-PF 45, measured by ISO 24444 and non-invasive hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS), respectively. Looking at the remaining transmission of UVA radiation makes spectral-homeostasis shielding look even more impressive. UVA transmission is less than 20% of comparable sunscreens that also claim SPF 50 and broadspectrum protection, thus approaching the curve of sun protective textiles within the UV spectrum. Our proprietary dispersion method can also be applied to mineral only sunscreens to raise their expected UVA-PF levels. Thanks to more available UVA filters and new formulation technology, achieving spectral-homeostasis shielding can become the new reality.
12:30 - 12:45
Acrypol ET-28 – the Next Generation of Rheology Modifiers
Marion Lorenzi, Grolman Group
Spoken Language: English Acrypol ET-28 is an anionic associative rheology modifier developed specifically for hair and skin care applications. It is a hydrophobically modified alkali soluble polymer emulsion (HASE) with unusually high aqueous thickening and stabilising efficiency that has been specially designed to help formulators achieve a luxurious, transparent and glossy gel. Acrypol ET-28 is a liquid that instantly thickens when neutralised, making handling easier, improving the manufacturing process and saving time. It is designed for clear formulations and is compatible with non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants as well as electrolytes.
12:45 - 13:00
Succinoglycan a Natural Polymer to Provide Velvety after-feel to your Cosmetic Formulation
Anne Thomasson, SOLVAY
Spoken Language: English Succinoglycan is a polymeric rheology modifier derived from the fermentation of agrobacterium tumefaciens and certified as natural. Its shear-thinning rheology and wide pH tolerance makes it an excellent choice as a stabilizer of oil-in-water formulations. Data shows that succinoglycan has synergistic thickening with acidic actives and withstands extremely low pH conditions. It also exhibits compatibility with electrolytes and works well with other thickeners to suspend particles like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in oil-in-water systems. Unlike other natural-derived gum thickeners, succinoglycan does not leave a sticky feel on the skin and even provides a soft, velvety after-feel to oil-in-water formulations.
14:30 - 14:45
Creating Exciting Formulations with Sustainable Surfactants and Emulsifiers that Improve Feel and Aesthetics of Skin and Hair that Consumers will Love
Esther Lansdaal, Corbion
Spoken Language: English During the last year within the home and personal care industry, focus on sustainability has gained increasing importance as consumers are more and more aware of sustainability and the environment. Next to performance and costs, sustainability has become a pillar of innovation and therefore for producers it is critical to integrate sustainability into the whole innovation process. Consequently there is a growing demand for natural and sustainable products which offer the same performance as synthetic alternatives. This contribution aims at sharing information about sustainable solutions using multifunctional, mild, safe surfactants and emulsifiers for home and personal care applications, made from renewable raw materials. These products, named lactylates, are able to improve skin feel, support hair repair, enhance viscosity, support foam stability and have antimicrobial benefits. The use of these lactylates in liquid crystalline lamellar gel systems and mild cleaners will be demonstrated and supporting data will be showed.
14:45 - 15:00
New Anionic Mild Surfactant with Special Foam Texture
Núria Marimon-Margarit, Kao Chemicals Europe
Spoken Language: English AKYPO® FOAM LM 25 is the latest anionic sulfate-free surfactant, launched in April 2018 by Kao Chemicals Europe. It is based in ethercarboxylate chemistry. It is a surfactant with crypto-anionic character, which combines the properties of anionic and non-ionic surfactants. It is a mild foaming agent for cleansing products. AKYPO® FOAM LM 25 has been designed and optimized in a way to deliver an outstanding foam texture during the application. The main benefit that offers this new ingredient is the outstanding creamy foam with very small bubble size, leaving a very smooth feeling during the application, especially in shampoos. Another key benefit of AKYPO® FOAM LM 25 is the unique stability of the creamy foam, which is clearly favorable to contribute to a better experience during the application. Last but not least, this special foam does not compromise the rinsability of the product during the wash-off step. Due to these special new properties of the ingredient, new techniques have been applied to characterize the so called “texture”, which is a very broad and subjective concept. The two main properties that have been deeply studied are the area of the foam bubbles and the consistency of the foam; both properties measured and quantified using instrumental techniques have been compared with sensory results obtained from the assessment made by expert panelists. A very good correlation between instrumental and sensorial properties has been achieved. During our contribution, we will not only describe our singular results but also we will explain the new evaluation techniques that have been deeply studied and which contribute to have a detailed overview of the performance of a new surfactant.
15:00 - 15:15
Polyglyceryl Ester Based Surfactants – an Attractive Green Alternative to the Current Non-Ionic Surfactants Offering
Jordan Petkov, Lonza
Spoken Language: English The consumer demand in personal care for “natural” non-ionic surfactants is growing. The current offerings are mainly based on petrol derived non-ionics and the alkyl polyglucoside based surfactants are one of the few exceptions. In this paper we will present results on relatively new and little known surfactants entirely based on natural renewable sources – polyglyceryl esters. The lack of enough data on their functionality in the literature and their full characterisation has delayed their penetration in a crowded cosmetics market and this presentation will try address this gap. The provided data will manifest the surfactants’ ability to reduce the surface/interfacial tension to very low values. Their mildness combined with an excellent foamability profile make them the surfactant of choice for formulations aimed at sensitive skin consumers.
15:15 - 15:30
RHEANCE® Glycolipids – a New Era in Natural Cleansing
Kathrin Brandt, Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH
Spoken Language: German Are you searching for high-performance, all-natural specialty ingredients for gentle cleansing? Do your customers value the purity and nature of ingredients in your cosmetic products? Is Corporate Social Responsibility always on the priority list as a key value for your stakeholders? Then be inspired by RHEANCE® Glycolipids - the novel class of specialty ingredients made by Evonik. A breakthrough in industrial biotechnology now enables the production of these nature-identical biomolecules on industrial scale from a 100% renewable feedstock: the unique fermentation process is based exclusively on sugars. RHEANCE® One, the first product of this new class of ingredients, combines both unprecedented environmental compatibility with high performance in multifunctional aspects: In skin, hair and oral care products, it provides maximum mildness without compromising on effective cleansing, while generating a dense and creamy foam quality with a pleasant soft touch. RHEANCE® Glycolipids open up a new dimension for formulating sustainable and natural cosmetics – even for the most demanding skin types. Let us spark your imagination!
16:00 - 16:15
Natural Micellar Thickening with Glutamate Surfactants
Martin Husmann, Schill+Seilacher GmbH
Spoken Language: English Formulators for natural cosmetic products are searching since many years for a way to thicken Glutamate Surfactants by means of micellar system for rinse off products. We found an inventive way to realize effective thickening without using hydrophilic polymers. A combination of Glutamate Surfactants with Lauryl Glycosides at an optimum pH will lead to desired viscoelastic properties at low concentrations. Cold processable concentrates were developed to achieve best foaming properties. Compatibility with other Ingredients are investigated and the formation of the micellar structure was predicted by computer modelling techniques.
16:15 - 16:30
euxyl® K 830: New Innovation in Cosmetic Preservation
Jana Ruffert, Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Spoken Language: German With euxyl® PE 9010, schülke has developed a cosmetic preservative that is highly established in the cosmetics industry worldwide. The effect of the cosmetic preservative Phenoxyethanol is enhanced by the booster properties of Ethylhexylglycerin. Through years of antimicrobial experience schülke was able to lead the way in explaining and applying the boosting technology. An advantage that schülke also uses in the latest product development. Due to the international limitation of Phenoxyethanol up to a maximum of 1%, euxyl® PE 9010 cannot be used in higher use concentrations. Thus, the desire comes up to raise the good effectiveness of Phenoxyethanol through an even more sophisticated boosting system to the maximum level. At the same time, the advantages of the pH-neutral use and the broad field of application should be preserved. euxyl® K 830 is the result of schülke's competence and experience with boosting systems. The optimally harmonized and patented triple combination of proven and new innovative ingredients has resulted in a highly effective cosmetic preservative that exhibits its outstanding effectiveness even in neutral pH ranges. Especially in leave-on formulations, the challenge test results of euxyl® K 830 are convincing. euxyl® K 830 - innovation through experience.
16:30 - 16:45
Devising High-Performing Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Formulations Using "Modern Day" Preservatives
Tony Gough, Innospec Ltd
Spoken Language: English Sulfate-free cleansing products continue to grow in popularity and formulators are looking more and more to formulate these at low pHs for organic acid preservative efficacy, and for other reasons such as claims of colour protection of permanently dyed hair, etc. This presentation will show formulators how to achieve stable and high performing sulfate-free systems at pHs necessary for organic acid, etc preservation.
16:45 - 17:00
Multifunctional Preservative Booster CHG & NHG in Combination with Booster for Prefect Results
Kazuya Nakajima, ADEKA Europe GmbH
Spoken Language: English The glycol Cyclohexylglycerin (CHG) & Hexylglycerin (NHG) water soluble have a surfactant-like structure. Due to this structure, CHG & NHG affects the interfacial tension at the cell membrane of microorganisms, allowing some active ingredients, such as antimicrobials and preservative actives, to penetrate more effectively. In order to prove the preservative boosting effect of CHG & NHG ,challenge tests have been carried and ADEKA continues to improve the combination possibility to reach the perfect multifunctional booster water soluble. In addition to providing effective preservation across a broad range of microbes, the ingredient reportedly is effective over a wide pH range: In combination with other fungicides or preservatives, this material is also said to boost performance. It is also applicable in shampoos, hair conditioners and creams it can be formulated into both leave-on and rinse-off applications. It is effective at low-use levels and maintains stability at high and low temperatures. CHG & NHG helps to reduce the concentration of traditional or alternative preservatives by boosting their anti-microbial activity. It can also be used to protect formulations in the absence of conventional preservatives Mildly-irritating High water solubility Adequate anti-microbial effect improve emulsion stability Low adsorption into fabrics Hair Moisturizing/Repair Advantage in the wet wipe applications Good compatibility with other ingredients such as Caprylylglycol, Ethylhexylgrycerin Phenoxyethanol, Methylpropanediol
09:00 - 09:15
The Use of an all Trans Retinol Derivative in Skincare Applications to Rewind the Facial Age of Consumers
Dean Feebery, IMCD UK
Spoken Language: English The use of Retinol and its associated derivatives has been widespread in skincare to reduce signs of aging, such as wrinkles, age spots and even skin tone. However, these Retinoids are either too irritating to the skin or are ineffective due to their structure. Granactive Retinod is an all trans ester of Retinoic Acid, retaining a powerful anti-aging activity which can be incorporated into skincare formulations but with a mildness not seen with other retinoids. Combing this with added chemical and thermodynamic stability, we can see a number of products launching on the market. We recently carried out a 3 month, placebo and positive controlled, blind study and the aim of this presentation is to share these results.
Spoken Language: German PoreTect™ is a new eco-designed active ingredient from Sederma, which offers an innovative solution to cutaneous pore enlargement related to ageing for an overall rejuvenation of the skin texture. Especially women reaching menopause report that the pores on the nose sides and cheekbones become more visible and larger. PoreTect™ provides a novel approach to fight against the signs of ageing and to promote a healthy and empowered skin. It contains a combination of flax and celery superseed extracts titrated in unprecedented natural cyclolinopeptides with a fully characterised sequence and senkyunolides. By improving the skin architecture, PoreTect™ reinforces the pore collagenous sheath and brings firmness, tone and density to the skin for a refined and rejuvenated skin texture with a satin appearance.
09:30 - 09:45
Ground-Breaking Mechanism: Leptin-Receptor Inhibition to Regulate the Sebaceous Glands - a New Strategy for Balancing Oily Skin
Hagen Döring, Provital, S.A.
Spoken Language: German Nelupure™ contains a blended extract from two types of lotus flower, whose action removes excess oil, leaves the skin more radiant, and helps prevent the unsightly blemishes it causes. It has been demonstrated that leptin plays a key role in the cell mechanism that triggers sebum synthesis. Leptin also stimulates the expression of inflammatory agents in sebocytes that help promote acne. For the first time in cosmetics, we use a mechanism based on leptin-receptor inhibition to regulate the sebaceous glands. In vitro studies By inhibiting the expression of the leptin receptor with Nelupure™, downstream markers of sebum production (such as proteins required for the formation of lipid droplets) and of inflammation are downregulated. Sebocytes that were incubated with Nelupure™ also showed a reduction in the quantity of lipids produced as well as the number and area of lipid droplets. In vivo studies The efficacy of Nelupure™ was tested in an in vivo study with 78 volunteers including Caucasian women, Asian men and Asian women. Various measurements were conducted: 1. Sebum production 2. Shininess of skin 3. Skin blemishes Only 8 hours after a single application with Nelupure™ extraordinary results were observed: shine was reduced by 32 % and active sebaceous glands by 16 % (vs. placebo). Since Asian skin also tends to have a prevalence of inflammatory lesions, the quantity of porphyrins (precursors of blemishes) and the reduction in inflammatory lesions (pimples) were measured. Results showed that Porphyrins have been reduced by 23% and inflammatory lesions by 33% (vs. placebo). Summarizing the study results it can be said that Nelupure™ reduces the expression of the leptin receptor in sebocytes, preventing it from triggering sebum production and inflammatory processes that cause skin blemishes.
09:45 - 10:00
QUORA NONI PRCF - New Anti-Acne Mechanism of Action: Anti Quorum Sensing
Karsten Lingen, novoclon GmbH
Spoken Language: German Microorganisms communicate in a language called QUORUM SENSING to coordinate (intra-species and inter-species) specific actions (formation of biofilms, competition, coexistence, virulence that can cause infections, etc.). The messengers involved are called QUORMONES or AUTO-INDUCERS and ensure sufficient numbers of microorganisms for the intended action. Plants coexist with microorganisms and have learned to block QUORMONES using biochemical antagonists: the ANTI-QUORMONES. These can be used to regulate human skin disorders caused by microorganisms. One example of QUORUM SENSING involving biofilm formation and bacterial virulence is acne where a dysbiosis takes place. Changes in skin microenvironment influence the proportions of some microorganisms populating our skin, here P. acnes and S. aureus populations grow excessively. S. epidermidis is another microorganism of our skin microbiota which modulates the population of P. acnes and S. aureus under normal conditions, but fails to control excessive populations caused by acne dysbiosis. Morinda citrifolia (the NONI) is able to produce ANTI-QUORMONES which re-balance the skin microbiota by “hacking” the QUORUM SENSING. We have therefore developed a Plasma Rich in Cell Factors (PRCF) from Morinda citrifolia rich in ANTI-QUORMONES with the following activities: In vitro - Anti-QUORUM SENSING: Reduction of the LUX-S gene expression in P. acnes (the LUX-S gene triggers the synthesis of QUORMONES). - Anti-BIOFILM: Reduction of biofilm formation on P. acnes, S. aureus and M. furfur - Interferes the interaction between the keratinocyte and the microorganism: Blocking the Toll-like Receptor TLR-2 by competition. In vivo - Reduction of sebum production - Reduction of the area covered by pores and of the number of pores - Improvement of the appearance of acne lesions/ reduction of open comedones - Rebalancing the dysbiosis of the microbiota by significantly reducing the population of S. aureus and of P. acnes, while maintaining the population of S. epidermidis.
10:00 - 10:15
Digging in the Garden of Microflora: a New Setup to Improve the Skin Appearance
Barbara Obermayer, RAHN AG
Spoken Language: German Overproduction of sebum changes the equilibrium of the commensal microflora on our skin. To prevent aggravation of the situation with comedo and acne formation, multiple physiological constraints have to be overcome. Besides re-balancing the skin's microflora to prevent proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, an elevated inflammatory ground state has to be reduced, reprogramming of keratinocytes and sebocytes needs to be accomplished and, in addition, the hormonal load of dihydrotestosterone has to be lowered. We introduce SEBOCLEARTM-MP, a purified fraction of prenylated isoflavones from the leaves of Maclura cochinchinensis, which alleviates the symptoms of blemished skin and provides a visibly refined and rejuvenated skin.
10:15 - 10:30
Future Proof your Skin from the Effects of Daily Stress
Olivier Garet, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd
Spoken Language: English Why balancing cortisol is key Modern stress has many different causes, from environmental, to personal, to lifestyle. And in our busy and “hyper-connected” world, stress has become an ongoing challenge for many people. Sustained stress affects both mind and body in various ways and can be particularly detrimental to the skin. The risks of spiraling cortisol levels The body produces Cortisol, known as the “stress hormone, as a natural response to stress. In small amounts, and in the short term, it is a healthy coping mechanism, but persistently high levels of cortisol can be very damaging to the skin. Negative effects can include unwanted visible signs of ageing such as lines and wrinkles, thinning skin, reduced elasticity, and lower skin barrier functionality. The more stressed we feel, the more our cortisol levels rise. Aged and UV-exposed skin is also more likely to produce cortisol, and so the downward spiral begins. It’s all about equilibrium When cortisol levels are balanced and in check, the skin reflects this and looks better. So, DSM has designed and patented a new cosmetic ingredient that does just this. BEL-EVEN™ is a synthetic small molecule that has been developed for skin care applications. Ex vivo studies have shown that its unique and innovative mode of action rebalances cortisol levels by selectively inhibiting the enzyme 11β-HSD1, particularly in keratinocytes, but also in fibroblasts. This action has been found to prevent UV-induced Collagen III damage. Moreover, a human study found that after applying 1% BEL-EVEN™ for 12 weeks, skin density significantly increased, elasticity and skin barrier functionality were boosted and the appearance of skin wrinkles visibly improved. By helping skin to manage the undesirable, long-term effects of hectic lifestyles, BEL-EVEN™ helps to counter the signs of stressinduced accelerated skin ageing, leaving the skin fuller and more supple looking.
11:00 - 11:15
Reduction of Protein Carbonylation in Human Skin Using Ectoin
Valérie Bicard-Benhamou, MERCK KGaA
Spoken Language: English Dark skin pores are frequently observed with elderly people and are a cosmetic point of invention. The three mainly associated triggers are high sebum excretion, decreased elasticity around pores, and increased hair follicle volume (1). In elderly people the appearance of uneven skin is considered as the result of skin pore darkness triggered and supported by excess of melanin production and carbonylated proteins (2). The dark skin pore formation initiated potentially as result of sebum lipid peroxidation is investigated in this study. We used oleic acid as fatty acid marker molecule found in sebum to test the protective effect of Ectoin against protein carbonylation. Induction by different stresses are described (3) and we demonstrate that protein carbonylation is reduced significantly using Ectoin at less than 1%. The protective effect of Ectoin after carbonylation induction using oleic acid as well as UV-A (365nm) and Blue light (460nm) is shown. Ectoin leads to a significant reduction (78%) in the carbonylation scores in HACAT cells vs control in the UV A stimulated cells and 64% in the blue light stressed HACAT cells. The data were confirmed in human skin in first 3D skin model and secondly via ex-vivo human skin showing in-situ reduction of carbonylated proteins. The reduction of carbonylated proteins was in addition to light induced stress confirmed with NHEK and in the 3D skin model caused by dryness. We tested if the reduction of carbonylated proteins using Ectoin is suitable to reduce darkness around facial pores and explain why Ectoin is a positive modulator in skin care and improves unevenness in skin color. 1: Lee, Sang Ju et.al; Dermatologic Surgery: 2016, 42(3), 277–285 2: Ogura Y et al. J Dermatol Sci. 2011, 64(1):45-52. 3: J Mizutani T, Sumida H, Sagawa Y, Okano Y, Masaki H. Dermatol Sci. 2016, 84(3):314-321.
11:15 - 11:30
The Natural Way Into the Skin – An in Vivo Study with Raman Spectroscopy on Human Skin to Assess the Penetration Properties of a New Phospholipid-Based Carrier System
Dr. Dorothea Marie Gutekunst, Lipoid GmbH/Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Spoken Language: German Encapsulation of active ingredients has become an important tool in the dermato-cosmetic and personal care industry, following the increasing requirements for safer, high-performing and more sophisticated consumer products. These trends gave rise to the development of a more efficient and controlled transport system for biological actives into the skin. We developed a new, innovative carrier system for cosmetic active ingredients, exclusively made of natural raw materials. The system is based on unsaturated phospholipids from non-GMO soybean lecithin, a valuable source of fluid lipid bilayers, increasing the fluidity of stratum corneum compartments and enhance the transport of skin actives. Our carrier system is designed as preliposomal concentrate, which forms liposomes upon mixing with water. In contrast to conventional liposomal encapsulation procedures, no special equipment is needed to form loaded liposomes with a particle size around 200 nm. To demonstrate the penetration enhancing effect an in vivo study with Raman spectroscopy was performed. Raman spectroscopy is a well-established method, which is sensitive enough to detect small changes in the molecular structure of the skin (e.g. a penetrated active) by measuring changes in the intensity profile of scattered light. Niacinamide is a prominent active in skin care products and acted as model substance in this study. Niacinamide was dissolved in an aqueous solution with and without addition of the liposomal carrier system. These formulations were applied on volunteers. The Raman signal was measured directly before and four hours after the application, and an intensity profile of niacinamide was detected in various skin depths. We found that our system carries the active deeper into the skin and likewise increases the concentration of penetrated active. Therefore, our new encapsulation system can be used to increase the effect of active ingredients in skin and furthermore to reduce the required concentration in the formulation retaining its physiological effect.
11:30 - 11:45
A Holistic Approach to Formulating for the Beauty Microbiom
Anna Crovetto, Active Concepts SRL
Spoken Language: English The synergy between the skin and its individual network of commensal microflora has become a trending topic and many different Probiotic, Prebiotic and Postbiotic approaches are offered to support this diverse skin environment. However, there can be a conflict between the addition of live bacteria to a formulation, the legal requirements of a safely preserved cosmetic product and the subsequent effects on the skin microbiome. With consumer and regulatory pressures changing how people seek to preserve products, not just in personal care but in markets ranging from home goods to fertilizers, emerging preservatives and “nonpreservative” technologies are being more commonly applied . Data on Histone Deacetylases (HDAC), which support commensal microflora and barrier function, and 16S ribosomal RNA metagenomic analysis highlight the influence of topical preparations on composition of the microbiome. This evidence supports the understanding that traditional biocides can cause bacteria cell wall disruption without target, killing both the “good” and the “bad” present on the skin. In response to this, sister companies Active Micro Technologies and Active Concepts are offering a more holistic approach to formulating for the Beauty Microbiome, combining fermentation derived natural antimicrobial actives and global metabolic stimulants to help support the intricate system of microorganisms unique to each person’s skin.
11:45 - 12:00
EnergiNius™ – Recharge the Skin’s Battery!
Dr. Anna Bronder, Gattefossé (Deutschland) GmbH
Spoken Language: German Artificial visible light emitted by the screens of our smartphones, tablets and laptops provokes an additional environmental stress on the skin. For the first time, this screen emitted artificial visible light has been precisely characterized by Gattefossé, with a unique equipment accurately recreating the light emitted by screens. Results show that exposure to screen light damages the energetic machinery of skin cells and weakens their mobility and communication properties, resulting in an increased cellular fatigue. At the skin surface, the complexion appears faded and lacks vitality. To protect skin cells from screen-emitted artificial visible light, Gattefossé developed with EnergiNius™ an active ingredient which preserves the cells‘ mitochondrial network from fragmentation and restores the mobility and communication properties of fibroblasts. As a consequence, the fibroblasts normalize their ATP production - the skin is visibly revived and the signs of fatigue disappear. These effects are proven in in vitro studies and perceived by a clinical test with 200 panelists performed in Europe and in Asia. Derived from Indian Ginseng (Withania somnifera) roots, EnergiNius™ is organic certified and obtained using the innovative NaDES technology. Sourced in Oregon, USA, Withania somnifera is an emblematic plant of Ayurvedic medicine and has been used in traditional medicine for millennia due to its high content of phytochemicals such as withanolids and amino acids. Their synergetic action support the high level of efficacy of EnergiNius.
12:15 - 12:30
Functional, Vegan Silk - Sustainable Next Generation Cosmetic Ingredients Using Biotechnological Production
Joachim Müller, AMSilk GmbH
Spoken Language: German Nowadays, consumers' increased environmental awareness is leading to an enhanced and steadily growing demand for natural, sustainable and ethically produced cosmetic ingredients. Meeting these requirements without compromises on the product efficacy represents a major challenge for the development of new and innovative cosmetics. Functional silk polypeptides as next generation cosmetic ingredients stand for valuable and unique product features combined with an advanced, sustainable and patented production technology. A biotechnological production process enables the quantitative generation of natural-based, biodegradable and vegan silk polypeptides of consistently high quality that can be easily formulated into personal care products. Various studies have demonstrated that these high-performance silk polypeptides act like a breathable second skin due to their film-forming properties, offering physical protection against harmful environmental influences, irritants and bacteria. Additionally, silk polypeptides fixate active substances on the skin over a longer period of time, thereby prolonging and enhancing their effectiveness. In addition, the hypoallergenic and biocompatible functional silk from AMSilk is well tolerated by the skin and has been awarded the certificate "excellent" by the renowned Dermatest research institute. In summary, the functional silk biotechnology enables the creation of groundbreaking and unique cosmetic products while meeting the expectations of the beauty market.
Spoken Language: English More than 80% of the world's population lives in urban areas with air-monitored pollution exceeding the threshold recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO). Global air pollution has grown by 8% in 2016 despite the efforts of some regions to decrease it. Considering the increase in pollution and possible damage to the skin, such as destruction of its layers, reduction of cells proliferation, cellular differentiation and hyperpigmentation, cosmetic brands are creating solutions just as quickly. Anti-pollution claims were present in 2/3 of all skin products launches in 2016, mostly with antioxidant properties. Nevertheless, antioxidants control the damage caused to the skin after contact with the polluting agents. This only mitigates damages of pollution exposure. Chemyunion evaluated many different types of films, to find one that could be proven to keep pollutants out. This was how we developed SkinBlitz Benefits: · Reduces permeation of polluting agents by 65% · Protects the DNA of cells exposed to pollution, inhibiting premature aging · Inhibits hyperpigmentation caused by pollution · Reduces levels of biomarkers of environmental stress by 55% (HSP70) · Anti-inflammatory properties: reduces IL-6 (Interleukin-6) by 37% The group treated with SkinBlitz presented permeation levels of heavy metals in the skin approximately 65% less than the group treated with a film-forming formulation (Figure 1). This remarkable data disrupts the myth that any film-forming agent is able to reduce permeation of pollutants through the skin . Many studies describe the correlation between pollution and the dark spots formation, as well as susceptibility to skin inflammation. By ex vivo and in vitro studies, we verified that SkinBlitz inhibits melanin elevation (Figure 2).
12:45 - 13:00
BergaCare SmartCrystals Rutin – Making a Poorly Soluble Active Far More Effective
Dr. Sabilla Zhong, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: English Rutin is one of the most powerful antioxidants found in nature. It can protect the skin from UV light-induced damage and skin aging, can improve the appearance of the skin (in cases such as rosacea and couperosis) and can support collagen synthesis. However, its poor solubility in both water and oil makes it difficult to formulate into skin care products in such a way that it can deploy its full antioxidant effect. BergaCare SmartCrystals technology is the solution. The submicron size of the patent-protected SmartCrystals leads to a drastic change in physical properties. They exhibit an increased saturation solubility and a higher dissolution rate, creating a high flow of molecules penetrating the skin. Furthermore, BergaCare SmartCrystals adhere well to the skin and ensure prolonged release of the active. This makes rutin many times more bioavailable and bioactive than conventional rutin powder. Discover how BergaCare SmartCrystals Rutin act on the skin and how they exhibit much better results in skin condition improvement and in antioxidant activity.
14:30 - 14:45
A new Multifunctionnal Ingredient for Formulators: Bringing Innovation in Cosmetics Through the Instigation of Nature
Philippe Marechal, Stéarinerie DUBOIS
Spoken Language: English The use of cosmetics is connected to the quest for well-being from both the body and the mind. With that aim, people have an increasing desire for naturality. In response to the consumer demand in connection with that trend, several types of estolides were synthetized by ingredients manufacturers, starting from vegetable fatty acids. Two main ways of reaction can be considered for obtaining these intermolecular esters, depending on the raw materials. We developed a new ester of estolides for cosmetics, according to the Principles of Green Chemistry. This innovative ingredient is synthetized with as few transformations as possible, and engineered with the aim both of creating a great versatility in applications for formulators, and a high degree of Naturality. Our research challenge was fulfilled through the synthesis of a new polymer ester dedicated to haircare, skincare, and lipcare, manufactured by Fisher’s mechanism of esterification, based on castor oil. The performances of this ester of estolide were screened from an instrumental point of view, and from sensorial description generated by a trained panel. Environmental aspects were also investigated. Characteristics such as medium-range viscosity and a high stability versus oxidation are achieved. This innovative ingredient brings to cosmetics formula a broad range of properties as a structuring or a film-forming agent, and it gives great moisturizing effects. It also shows interesting values as a pigment disperser. During application of hairs, skin, or lips, this ester of estolide will give very interesting protective properties from outer-air agents. The ingredient we tuned showed to be fully biodegradable, and according to the international standard implemented in 2017: ISO 16128, its NOI (Natural Origin Index) is 87%. Our commitment to Naturality determined our scientific approach, and our technology allowed us to manufacture this ester of estolide with unique performances and a reduced environmental footprint.
14:45 - 15:00
Natural and High Performance – New Formulation Concepts
Laura Ratz, Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH
Spoken Language: German The NRC application laboratory works in collaboration with customers and suppliers to generate optimal synergies from the company’s diverse portfolio of raw materials that meet changing market requirements and keep up-to-date with the latest trends. Natural products continue to be in high demand among consumers. At the same time, the cosmetics market has been continuing to reject the use of certain types of raw materials and still expect an ever-increasing level of performance and quality to be delivered. Our lab has developed formulation concepts that are in line with these trends: manufacturing purely natural products that provide the same benefits as conventional synthetic products. We show how nature and performance can be combined.
15:00 - 15:15
Multifunctionality as the Key to Natural Ten INCI Minimalistic Formulations
Daniela Peters, Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Spoken Language: German Minimalism is a relevant trend within the movement for clean and natural cosmetics. The aims of the minimalistic lifestyle are to reduce complexity and to focus on the important. To realize this in cosmetics, consumers request personal care products based on the least possible number of ingredients. Moreover, they demand non-criticized and natural ingredients. This poses an even greater challenge for the formulator. Evonik Dr. Straetmans presents how to realize this trend topic for exciting natural cosmetic formulations by using only ten ingredients. The presentation will highlight natural formulations that have fascinating performance during application, such as texture transformation, and a delighting sensory profile. Key to these appealing formulations is the clever combination of natural, high-efficacy multifunctional ingredients. The synergistic interaction between the raw materials is being explored during the presentation.
15:15 - 15:30
Texture Transformation and Sophisticated Aesthetics with Natural Emollients
Ann-Charlotte Andersson, AAK
Spoken Language: English Surprising and sophisticated aesthetic characteristics are demonstrated in a new highly versatile, oxidative-stable natural emollient. The typical solid texture at room temperature transforms quickly to a low viscous liquid at body temperature with the potential to provide a soothing or cooling sensation when melting. In application Lipex SMP combines an eased spreading and a silky-smooth richness with an elegant soft-dry after feel. The optimised texturizing and melting characteristics helps to add consistency to emulsions and anhydrous formulations and further facilitate the use of natural emollients in broadened range of cosmetic applications such as skin care, sun care and coloured cosmetics. Thanks to its characteristic composition Lipex SMP provides a uniform, stable matrix contributing to stabilisation of particle dispersions such as pigments and inorganic UV-filters. In addition, Lipex SMP offers an excellent base for creating new sophisticated aerated products such as whipped creams and soufflé type of formulas.
Spoken Language: English Body odour is a complex mix of molecules containing a range of functional groups including thiols, amines and carboxylic acids that vary depending on behavioural patterns, gender and age. Effective control of body odours typically relies on a variety of approaches: stop the malodour from forming by using aluminium salts to block pores; inhibit the microbiome that cause the formation of malodour molecules; mask malodours with fragrance. For cosmetic treatments, the most commonly used method to neutralise odours is fragrance-masking. Today’s consumer has become more and more concerned with these approaches and is looking for safe and effective alternatives. Zinc complexes are well known to neutralise odours by binding volatile components and RevCare MC gives a unique approach to formulating zinc into personal care products. Taking a holistic approach to malodour control is it important to ensure that analytical methods, along with human panel tests are completed. An expert panel test from an independent laboratory was able to confirm the efficacy of zinc polyitaconate at reducing the intensity of two body odour simulates. A study by GC headspace confirmed that zinc polyitaconate in solid and aqueous form reduces the intensity of model sulphur and nitrogen containing malodours. RevCare MC binds volatile malodour molecules so they cannot be detected by the human nose, while having no substantive effect on the natural biological processes of the skin or effect on the skins own unique microbiota. Itaconix polyitaconate materials are derived from biotechnological sources using an environmentally friendly green process; facilitating the sustainable future of malodour control technology.
16:15 - 16:30
A New Method to Assess the Efficacy of Aluminium Free Antiperspirants
Gunja Springmann, proDERM Institute
Spoken Language: German Since the debate about the correlation between aluminium-containing antiperspirants and the risk of breast cancer, the demand for aluminium free products increased drastically. To assess the efficacy of antiperspirants during the early development phase, usually a screening test based on gravimetric determination of sweat amount is the preferred method . In the recent years different results of studies suggests that the standard test design doesn’t fit with the properties of aluminium free antiperspirants very well. Here, we present a new measurement method via capacitive contact imaging to determine the sweat reducing efficacy of that new generation of products. We used various model substances to develop the method. A differentiation between the efficacies of different substances was evident in the conducted tests. As a summary, the capacitive contact imaging with appropriate image analysis is a reproducible and selective approach for evaluating aluminium free antiperspirants.  Bielfeldt S, Frase T, Gassmueller J. New sensitive method for assessment of antiperspirants with intraindividual comparison of up to eight formulations. SOFW 1997; 123(10):639-642.
16:30 - 16:45
Development of Novel Technologies Against Dentine Hypersensitivity
Thomas Welss, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA
Spoken Language: German Dentine hypersensitivity (DH) is a sharp dental pain in response to thermal, tactile or chemical stimulation. In Europe nearly every second inhabitant in the age of 18 to 35 years suffers from DH influencing their quality-of-life. Main reasons for developing DH are receding gum lines, enamel wear or enamel erosion, all contributing to the exposure of dentine tubules at the tooth necks. Here we present technologies to immediately stop aching, to build up a sustainable protection barrier, to deeply remineralize weakened enamel and to soothe & strengthen gum line. To elaborate the optimal technology to comprise all benefits we took advantage of several in vitro assays: A) Detection of clogged dentine tubules by expert assessment of high resolution images and b) quantifying hydraulic conductance through dentine tubules; c) measure enamel remineralization using nano-indentation; d) cellular in vitro model of gingivitis to describe soothing and gum strengthening effects. In the subsequent multi-center clinical study 107 volunteers suffering from DH used the toothpaste. To assess product efficacy, hypersensitivity was provoked using a cold air flow followed by the qualitative assessment of the pain by the volunteers on a scale of 10 before, after a single application and after 4 weeks of continuous use twice daily. The results of the pre-clinical in vitro studies revealed best effects against DH using a combination of a Calcium phosphate, a metal sulfate and a carboxy methylcellulose for clogging open dentine tubules and strengthening weakened enamel. Furthermore, Ginkgo phospholipids soothed irritated gums and stimulated production of collagen. The clinical study supported these finding: Immediate and long-lasting protection from DH following the first application to the end of the study and even beyond. Taken together, here we showed a novel technology that successfully treats dentine hypersensitivity by targeting key pillars of DH causes.
16:45 - 17:00
Plant Science Program – Important Role in the Industry to Offer the Highest Quality and Sustainable Supply
Sinja Mayer, ADM WILD Europe GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: English Mint is an important ingredient used across the personal care category and is the lead flavor profile for everyday consumer products like dental floss, toothpaste and mouthwash. ADM, a leader and pioneer in the mint industry dating back to 1869, launched an initiative over 65 years ago to create a sustainable mint supply for future generations to come. Today, those varietals are offering solutions for farming and consumer industry. Through 20+ years of research, ADM developed non GMO breeding techniques to create new plants which are developed in the Greenhouse and tested in farm level test plots. These plants now provide a significant portion of the U.S. mint oil that is generated today. New varietals are selected based on quality, disease resistance, oil to hay ratio and yield. Plant science plants are selected to be hardier and therefore have higher yield and increased resistance to disease. These plants are environmentally responsible and sustainable as they require much less water, fuel and fertilizer than traditional mint. These next generations of premium mint oils are allowing customers stable supply, consistent profiles and most importantly “outstanding taste”. They are commonly used to stabilize supply and cost by customers in US and overseas. Some varieties provide novel flavor profiles and properties that deliver a unique point of differentiation in oral care products and broadens the portfolio of profiles that can be developed for specific customers.
At the end of the first congress day, we would like to invite you to see the day off with a nice welcome drink. Meet your colleagues and partners and enjoy a unique Fragrance Fashion Show. Together with perfumers Drom, Düllberg and Frey & Lau, SEPAWA e.V. and DGP (German Society of Perfumers) have created fragrances which are tailor-made for Berlin HTW’s (University of Applied Sciences) unusual fashion designs.