Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
European Detergents Conference – GDCh – Green Chemistry along the Value Chain
Chair: Prof. Dr. Brigit Glüsen/Prof. Dr. Thomas Gassenmeier
This year's EDC with the topic "Green Chemistry along the Value Chain" focuses on novel substances, methods and processes that enable sustainable solutions for the future of detergents and cleaning agents. The presented research results lead to a deeper understanding of the underlying mechanisms with all aspects along the value chain. Among other things, we look at raw materials from biomass, address the challenge of sustainable product formulations and discuss the reduction of textile-based microplastics during washing.
09:00 - 09:30
Novel Surfactant Based on Non-food Biomass: Value Chain Design Starting from 5-Hydroxymethylfurfural
Prof. Dr. Regina Palkovits, RWTH Aachen University
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research 5-Hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF) presents a promising platform molecule available based on the carbohydrate fraction of lignocellulosic biomass avoiding a competition to food production. Oxidation of HMF allows accessing furan-2,5-dicarboxylic acid which has been proposed as substitute of terephthalic acid in PET production. Via reduction of HMF, a versatile set of biomass-based diols becomes available suitable for the design of tailored value chains to customized products. In this contribution, the potential of HMF to access tailored surfactants providing high-performance will be discussed. The work evolved in the frame of HICAST, the Henkel Innovation Campus for Advanced Sustainable Technologies, at RWTH University.
09:30 - 09:50
Ionically Assembled Polyelectrolyte/Microemulsion Complexes (PEMECs) – Phase Behaviour, Thermodynamics and Structure
Prof. Dr. Michael Gradzielski, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The mixing of oppositely charged polyelectrolytes and oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsion droplets leads to the formation of polyelectrolyte/microemulsion complexes (PEMECs). Such systems were investigated by us for differently sized microemulsion droplets and for different types of polyelectrolytes ranging from flexible synthetic ones like polyacrylate (PAA) to rather stiff biopolymers like hyaluronate (HA) or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC). In the range of charge compensation, typically phase separation is observed while monophasic regions are present of excess of microemulsion or polyelectrolyte charge. The observed phase behaviour depends markedly on type and Mw of the polyelectrolyte employed, as well as on the charge density of the microemulsion droplets. In the case of using the mesoionic tetradecyldimethylamine oxide (TDMAO) as main surfactant the latter can be controlled by pH, which leads to systems strongly changing in the pH range from 5-8. The PEMEC structures were determined by a combination of static/dynamic light scattering (SLS, DLS), fluorescence correlation spectroscopy (FCS) and small-angle neutron scattering (SANS). They show that here elongated aggregates are formed in the polyelectrolyte-rich part of the phase diagram, where the size increases upon approaching the phase boundary of charge neutrality, and it correlates strongly with the stiffness of the polyelectrolyte employed. In addition, the thermodynamics of the process was studied by isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC). With these experiments, a comprehensive picture can be derived that interrelates phase behaviour, thermodynamics and structure of PEMEC formation and relates it directly to the properties of the constituting components. With this knowledge, it is possible to design PEMECs with well-defined structural features by proper choice, in particular of the polyelectrolyte, and to have marked pH responses of their structures and properties. Such systems should be interesting for potential applications in formulations in the field of controlled release and delivery of active agents, for instance in cosmetics.
09:50 - 10:10
Glycerol Detergents Facilitate the Investigation of Drug Targets
Dr. Leonhard H. Urner, University of Oxford & Freie Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Membrane proteins are targets for more than 50% of current drugs. Understanding their structure and interactions with biomembranes is of great interest in drug discovery. Detergents traditionally enable the purification and analysis of membrane proteins. However, design guidelines which allow us to fine-tune their structure for individual applications are currently not available. To address this shortcoming, we here present a detergent family derived from a byproduct of the biofuel industry: glycerol. Using a modular-designed library of dendritic glycerol detergents, we can identify for the first time how changing the structure of detergents allows controlling membrane protein purification and protein-lipid interactions during purification. In addition to a range of bacterial membrane proteins, dendritic glycerol detergents enable the purification and analysis of a functional G-protein coupled receptor (GPCR). The GPCR family is currently intensively studied due to its substantial role in widespread diseases. Therefore, our results represent a significant advance for the investigation of pharmaceutical targets and outline how sustainable resources can offer great potential for improvements in human health.
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The historical surfaces of artistic and cultural assets can be regarded as the ‘faces’ of those pieces of art. These surfaces are often soiled as a result of either wear and tear or long-term exposure to environmental influences. Cleaning these is quite challenging as each surface requires a tailor-made cleaning method (aqueous or solvent-containing gels). The project at hand aims to develop new, innovative foam-based cleaning methods. By cleaning with foams the amount of conventional detergents can thus be reduced by up to 90%. Current research shows that foamed detergents can clean far more efficiently than non-foamed ones. By using the double syringe technique, well controlled, small-bubble foams (r = 10 -20 µm) are produced. Furthermore, it is possible to vary the liquid content ε independently of the bubble size with this technique. To understand the role of foams within cleaning processes, cleaning tests have been performed in which foams with different liquid contents were applied to glass substrates contaminated with fluorescent oil (Figure 1). Since the cleaning effect of the foam depends on the liquid content, the processes taking place in the foam during cleaning were investigated. The cleaning process consists of two different mechanisms. The first mechanism is the shifting of the contact line between oil, foam and glass due to the dynamics of the decay processes in the foam (valid for all liquid contents). The second mechanism only occurs in foams at low liquid content (ε ≤ 5 %), at which the oil is drawn into the foam due to capillary forces.
11:00 - 11:20
Biosurfactants Made by Fermentation - Green, Mild and Powerful
Dr. Joachim Venzmer, Evonik Operations GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Two biosurfactants, which have been known for decades, have recently been made available on commercial scale: sophorolipids and rhamnolipids. These microbial surfactants which occur in nature as natural metabolites of various yeasts and bacteria, are now industrially produced by fermentation. Numerous publications and test data already prove their excellent ecotox profile and mildness to skin. In this presentation we will demonstrate that they are not only “green” and mild, but also exhibit unique properties resulting in high performance for a broad range of applications. Their physico-chemical properties, both in bulk and at interfaces, will be discussed and related to their special “double-hydrophilic” molecular architecture and pH-dependent behavior. The results demonstrate a broad utility for solubilization, formulation of microemulsions, foaming performance, and pigment dispersion. These benefits will be explained based on ternary phase diagrams, and their interfacial behavior. In addition, a rationale for their stability against hard water will be presented. As a result, rhamnolipids and sophorolipids are ideally suited for formulating products which meet consumer demands not only for mildness, naturalness, and environmental compatibility, but also for superior performance and sensory properties.
11:20 - 11:40
Influence of Alcohol Cosurfactants on Structure and Properties of SDS/PDADMAC PESCs
Olga Kuzminskaya, Technical University Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Upon mixing an ionic surfactant and an oppositely charged polyelectrolyte (PE) the formation of complexes (PESCs) is induced. These systems found applications in cosmetics, detergency and drug delivery. The diversity of such systems can be further expanded via addition of a third major component: a cosurfactant. In the current study, the influence of long- and medium-chain alcohol cosurfactants on sodium dodecylsulphate/poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride) (SDS/PDADMAC) PESCs was investigated. Among all, the dodecanol cosurfactant was in the spotlight as hydrolysis product of SDS. The remarkable effect of the cosurfactants on the formed PESCs was explicitly confirmed by rheological and small angle neutron scattering (SANS) measurements. Steady-shear rheology showed a pronounced and consistent increase in the PESCs viscosity with increasing dodecanol concentration by almost three orders of magnitude. Generally, long-chain alcohols proved themselves to be better thickening agents as opposed to medium ones, for which a smaller viscosity increase was observed at higher concentrations. SANS in the polyelectrolyte contrast revealed rod-like structures of PDADMAC and smearing of the pronounced form factor peak with rising cosurfactant concentration.
11:40 - 12:00
Single Coil or Flower-like Aggregates: Hydrophobically Modified Thermo-responsive Block-polymers in Solution
Albert Prause, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Mediation between hydrophilic and hydrophobic phases is necessary for almost every application or process, e.g. cleaning, solubilization and stabilization. Best known for this purpose are amphiphilic molecules like surfactants. It is usually important to be able to control and adjust rheologic properties such as viscosity of a solution, wherefore polymers were commonly used to obtain the desired rheologic behaviour. In addition, having the possibility of a distinct temperature response to a rheologic property can become highly favourable for applications where temperature is an adjustable parameter. To combine and understand these properties, in this work hydrophobically modified (HM) thermo-responsive (TR) block-polymers were studied with respect to phase behavior and structure. The HMTR block-polymers are built of a dodecyl (C12) chain as hydrophobic end-cap, a permanently hydrophilic poly(N-dimethylacrylamide) block (PDMA) and a hydrophilic/hydrophobic temperature switchable block with a lower critical solution temperature (LCST) such as poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (PNIPAM), poly(N,N-diethylacrylamide) (PDEA) and poly(N-acryloylpyrrolidin) (PNAP). The PDMA block was kept constant with about 200 units and the responsive block was set to about 20 and 40 units. The aggregation behaviour was studied with respect to the influence of the TR block length and the monomer LCST. The HMTR block-polymers were investigated in aqueous solution in the temperature range of 20-60°C for concentrations between 0.5 and 5 %wt.
12:15 - 12:45
Textile Fragments as a Source of Microplastics in the Environment
Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Maike Rabe, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Microplastic in general is defined as plastic particles smaller than 5 mm. A lower limit is not defined, so that the particles can be very small. If these particles get into the environment, they pose a risk to living beings. Microplastics include textile fragments of synthetic polymers, generated during the dyeing process, or fibre fragments which may detach during use and washing. As part of the funding priority, "Plastics in the Environment – Sources, Sinks, Solutions", funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research, the Research Institute for Textiles and Clothing, together with partners, investigates the release of textile-based microplastics during household laundering within the project "TextileMission" (FKZ 13NKE010B). Laundry items (100% polyester) are washed with a liquid detergent in the easy-care programme (40 °C and 900 rpm). The entire washing liquor (approx. 45 l) is then filtered with a 5-stage filter cascade up to a pore size of 5 μm. Microplastic particles are collected and analysed both qualitatively and quantitatively. In parallel, textile samples are studied in a filtration-based quick lab test with a degree of separation of 1.6 μm. This presentation depicts solutions to reduce the release of microplastics from textiles. Primarily, changes in the textile construction are considered. Biochemical methods, such as the use of enzymes, are also suitable for reducing the microplastic input. Polyesterases are able to cleave ester bonds and thus in principle degrade polyester. Since polyester is not a natural substrate for these enzymes, this process currently takes a long time. Research has increased steadily in recent years to find enzymes or to improve them towards an economic degradation of polyesters. Te suitability of commercially available polyesterases, but also the potential of polyesterases at the experimental stage for the cleavage of ester bonds is depicted (EnzyPol IGF 259 EN).
12:45 - 14:30
Short Introduction of Scientific Posters by Authors and Lunch-Time Poster Tour with Authors (EDC)
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Short Introduction of Scientific Poster by Authors (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 28 October 2020 Time: 12:45 - 13:00 Location: Convention Hall I A Lunch-Time Poster Tour with Authors (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 28 October 2020 Time: 13:00 - 14:30 Location: Foyer 1 Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
European Detergents Conference – GDCh – Green Chemistry along the Value Chain
Chair: Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl/Dr. Felix Müller
14:30 - 14:50
Sustainable Fabric Softeners Containing Cationic Surfactants Based on European Plants
Dr. Paula Barreleiro, Werner & Mertz GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The use of surfactants derived from plants of European origin (rapeseed-oil, linseed-oil, olive-oil, sunflower-oil) replacing or supplementing wash active substances based on palm- resp. palm kernel oil and coconut oil is increasing. This has numerous advantages, such as safeguarding the rainforest, preserving and promoting biodiversity, avoiding monocultures, utilizing short transportation routes and much more. Also, oils from local crops are chemically different from palm kern oil but they are suitable for surfactant production. However, formulating detergents and cleaning products with such surfactants is not a drop-in solution and requires technical efforts. In this study, the properties of a cationic surfactant derived from local European plants oils (rapeseed oil/sunflower oil) were investigated in comparison with a cationic surfactant derived from palm oil. The raw materials show similar performance in terms of odor and viscosity as a function of temperature. The use of the European plant oil derived cationic surfactant in laundry softeners leads to similar fabric softening, perfume deposition performance and formulation stability.
14:50 - 15:10
Award-Session: "Young Scientists Award" and "Award of the GDCh Detergent Chemistry Division "
Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: English
15:10 - 15:30
From Coagulated Surfactant Films to Microcapsules, Filled Vesicles and Self-propelling Colloidal Particles
Prof. Dr. Heinz Rehage, Technical University Dortmund
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The planned lecture gives a brief insight into current research topics of our institute. We start by discussing the structure and dynamics of surfactant films and show that some detergents, such as sorbitan tristearate (Span® 65) form highly viscous and elastic layers at fluid interfaces. We observed similar properties in other composite systems in which cationic surfactants were combined with multivalent counterions or with water soluble alginates. We used the stabilized surfactant films to produce nano- and microcapsules, which we investigated in detail. The advantages of these particles lie in the simple and environmentally friendly synthesis, and they show interesting self-healing properties. In pharmacy and medicine, vesicles or liposomes are often used for processes of drug transport. In order to produce such filled aggregates in a defined manner, we developed a new phase-transfer method in which tiny water droplets, suspended in oil, were transported across a thin surfactant film into an underlying water phase. With this method, we could continuously produce larger quantities of filled vesicles. In contrast to natural vesicles, our aggregates still contained small traces of oil in their membranes. This leads to interesting properties which are known from water-in-water emulsions. The worldwide trend of miniaturization has gained great interest in the development of artificial nano- and microsystems which can carry out independent swimming movements (nanobots). Lenticular alginate capsules represent a simple model system for detailed investigations of new types of artificial locomotion. Polyethylene glycol or other spreading agents, that were stored in the core of the capsules, could escape through small membrane pores. Due to this simple spreading mechanism, the capsules showed rapid, circular movements near the water surface. After adding surfactants, we observed more complicated collective swimming processes due to Marangoni convection, and the microswimmers then formed pulsating rings or oscillating chains.
16:00 - 16:20
Engineering of Detergent Enzymes for Sustainable Detergent Applications
Dr. Mehdi D. Davari, RWTH Aachen University
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Modern laundry detergent formulations comprises many additives including enzymes, surfactants, builders, bleaching agents, fillers and other minor additives which have a synergistic effect in removing stains from the fabric surfaces. Enzymes are widely used in complex detergent systems to remove stains (e.g., egg, proteins, milk, sweat, grass, fat, etc.) from the fabrics. Today detergent enzymes (protease, amylase, lipase) are jointly improving detergent efficacy by washing at lower temperatures and at lower pH levels. Understanding the interactions between enzymes and main detergent components on a molecular level is a crucial target in improving formulations and performance of detergent industry products. In this talk, I highlight enzyme engineering efforts in HICAST (Henkel Innovation Campus for Advanced and Sustainable Technologies) research cluster. HICAST aims to develop novel and sustainable laundry detergents through a fundamental understanding of interactions between enzymes and detergent components. The main objective of this work was to gain an in-depth molecular understanding of interactions between detergent enzymes and surfactants. The integrative approach of computational modeling, biophysical characterization and protein engineering proved to be a promising workflow to gain molecular insights into the molecular interactions and to improve enzymes performance in detergents. The gained molecular understanding on fundamental principles causing enhanced enzymes performance is likely applicable for other detergent enzymes and can be further applied for reengineering of enzymes and surfactants compositions in modern laundry detergents.
16:20 - 16:40
Solubilisation and Microemulsion Formation in Non-ionic CO2-containing Surfactants
Rahel Marschall, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The investigation of the solubilisation behaviour of CO2-containing non-ionic EO-surfactants is of fundamental interest as well as of importance in applications. The global problem of the greenhouse effect cannot only be combated by avoiding fossil oil as a basic building block of chemicals, but must also include the integration of CO2 into the circular economy. The investigation of the solubilisation potential of CO2 surfactants in which EO units have been replaced by CO2 units has been characterized by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) and been compared with data from static and dynamic light scattering (SLS, DLS), interfacial tension measurements (IFT) and quantitative NMR (qNMR). At a given surfactant concentration, the use of CO2-containing surfactants can greatly increase the solubilisation capacity for oils compared to that of conventional EO surfactants. Moreover, the addition of the cosurfactant geraniol, often employed in commercial applications such as cosmetics, was investigated to enhance the solubilisation capacity further. Cosurfactant addition induces a structural transition to elongated aggregates. To understand the difference in aggregation behaviour and the change in curvature by the addition of geraniol, the bending elasticity of the amphiphilic monolayer of the system was investigated by combined measurements of SANS and neutron spin echo (NSE). In this way, a systematic understanding of the microemulsion system based on the bending moduli of its surfactant layer was generated.
16:40 - 17:00
Gelled Non-toxic Bicontinuous Microemulsions: from Science to Application
Ke Peng, University of Stuttgart
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Orthogonal self-assembly is the simultaneous but independent formation of two self-assembled structures. One of the best known examples of orthogonal self-assembly is mammalian cells, where the extracellular matrix and the cytoskeleton coexist independently. Orthogonal self-assembly can also be realized in gelled complex fluids. One special case is that of gelled bicontinuous microemulsions (GBMEs). Bicontinuous microemulsions contain two interweaving water and oil domains separated by an amphiphilic surfactant film. The length scale of the sponge-like domains is around 10 to 100 nm. Simultaneously, low molecular weight gelators (LMWGs) self-assemble to form self-assembled fibrillar networks which penetrate through the microemulsion domains. The GBME water–n-decane–tetraethylene glycol monodecyl ether (C10E4)–12‑hydroxyoctadecanoic acid (12-HOA) has been proved to be orthogonally self-assembled. The combination of a bicontinuous microstructure and a fibrillar network results in systems suitable for transdermal drug delivery: both lipophilic and hydrophilic drugs can be solubilized in the microemulsion, whereas the gel provides a convenient application. For the first time, we formulated a non-toxic bicontinuous microemulsion with technical-grade sugar surfactants and gelled this system H2O–isopropyl myristate–Plantacare 1200 UP–1,2-octanediol successfully with the organogelator 1,3:2,4-dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS). Consistent with the assumption of orthogonal self-assembly, the phase behavior and the bicontinuous microstructure of microemulsions are not altered by the gel formation. Two model drugs, namely diclofenac sodium salt as a hydrophilic drug and lidocaine as a hydrophobic drug, are added to the non-toxic GBME and transdermal permeation tests were performed.
17:00 - 17:20
Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Complexes with Biological Polyelectrolyte
Sebastian Bayer, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Polyelectrolyte-surfactant complexes (PESCs) are employed in a variety of applications such as detergency, drug delivery, rheological modifiers, paints, or other formulations. In many of these applications, biologically derived constituents could serve as potential sustainable replacements to crude-oil based chemicals. Bio-derived polyelectrolytes (PEs), however, often have different characteristics than the commonly used synthesized ones, such as lower charge density, higher stiffness, complex H bonds etc., which may also result in different complex-formation schemes. This contribution wants to shed light on PESCs with biologically derived PEs, with a focus on hyaluronan (Hy) and oppositely charged model surfactants under physiological conditions (pH and salt). In a PBS-buffered system with Hy and a model microemulsion system consisting of TTABr/TDMAO/hexanol/decane in PE excess, we found that the presence of surfactant does not have an influence on the rheological properties of the mixture, which is in contrast to most other systems. Depending on salt, temperature, charge ratio, charge density and radius of the droplets, as well as length of Hy, the system is very responsive and changes from no interaction to a 2-phase coacervate. In between, both linearly decorated Hy and loose spherical superstructures in the range of 100 nm can be observed. These findings can be utilized for a rational design of hyaluronan complexes with desired properties.
17:20 - 18:00
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Poster Award Ceremony (EDC, Foyer 1)
Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Poster Award Ceremony (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 28 October 2020 Time: 17:20 - 18:00 Location: Foyer 1 Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
Spoken Language: TBA
09:15 - 10:00
Skin Microbiomics - Land of the one-eyed king?
Prof. Markus Egert, Hochschule Furtwangen
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiome The human microbiome represents one of the most fascinating biological research fields of the last decades. By now, also the cosmetic industry has discovered it as an attractive target for new products and claims . Molecular biology techniques particularly contributed to a deeper understanding of the composition and functionality of the human microbiome. However, in case of many human diseases or cosmetically relevant disorders the role (cause or effect?) of the microbiome is still far from being understood . The presentation will give a brief overview of the status quo of human (skin) microbiome research. After that, it will particularly emphasize the strengths and weaknesses of the common methods used to analyze the (skin) microbiome. It will become clear that the well-known pitfalls of molecular microbial ecology techniques  still exist and that they have to be considered when a microbiome study is planned or data from a microbiome study are evaluated.  Sfriso R, Egert M, Gempeler M, Voegeli R, Campiche R. (2020). Revealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone. Int J Cosmet Sci. 42(2):116-126. doi: 10.1111/ics.12594.  Egert M, Simmering R, Riedel CU. (2017). The Association of the Skin Microbiota With Health, Immunity, and Disease. Clin Pharmacol Ther. 102(1):62-69. doi: 10.1002/cpt.698. . Larry J Forney, Xia Zhou, Celeste J Brown (2004). Molecular microbial ecology: land of the one-eyed king. Curr Opin Microbiol. 7(3):210-20. doi: 10.1016/j.mib.2004.04.015.
Spoken Language: TBA Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiome As the outermost organ of the human body, the skin forms a large interface with the outside environment and what it represents in terms of physical, chemical and biological risks. In the past decades, the biological relevance of the skin microbiota and its diversity for skin health and protection has become evident. Indeed, it has been established that the skin microbiota largely contributes into the host’s means of defence, playing an essential role in the skin barrier, and in the development and function of the immune system. The balance of interactions between host cells and microorganism populations, however, is continually affected by intrinsic or extrinsic factors, and the disruption of this balance can impact the composition and dynamics of the skin microbiota, causing what is called dysbiosis. Dysbiosis has been shown to alter the skin barrier, making the host more susceptible to skin disorders or diseases such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, rosacea and acne. In this context, the maintenance or recovery of a balanced skin microbiota is becoming a major concern in the field of skin care products. The development of active ingredients that can rebalance the cutaneous microbiota represents a serious and innovative strategy for improving skin disorders. Acne and dandruff are two of the most common skin conditions, and both have been associated to microbiota disequilibrium. Here we will present two eco-friendly active ingredients that, working in partnership with the skin microbiota, help to return to healthy skin and scalp conditions.
11:00 - 11:30
Skin Barrier Function and Microbiota Equilibrium, a Way to Favor Comfort of Reactive Skins
Elodie Valin, Seppic GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiome Skin microbiota is essential for healthy skin. Dysbiosis between microbiota and skin leads to inflammation and dysfunction of the barrier function, and to the development of skin disorders, such as dryness or sensitivity. Our aim was to investigate the effect of ArL , an Arctium lappa root extract, on protection and comfort of reactive skins, by acting on microbiota equilibrium and skin barrier function. The efficacy of ArL on skin barrier function was evaluated on reconstructed human epidermis colonized with Staphylococcus epidermidis, the most common bacteria of the cutaneous microbiota, and Staphylococcus aureus , a pathogen which can cause skin infections. ArL limited S.aureus biofilm formation, without impacting its viability nor that of S.epidermidis . ArL also reinforced skin barrier function evaluated by TransEpithelial Electrical Resistance and histology. The effect of ArL on microbiota balance was further analysed by assessing its ability to modulate inflammation resulting from perturbation of skin-microbiota system, based on activation of Toll-Like Receptors in keratinocytes. ArL was able to protect keratinocytes from IL-8 and hBD2 overproduction and thus to regulate inflammation in such conditions. A disequilibrium in skin microbiota such as Cutibacterium acnes proliferation can also induce lipid overproduction by sebocytes and thus skin inflammation. A reduction of lipid droplet formation in stimulated sebocytes was also observed and corroborated the ability of ArL to modulate inflammation induced by microbiota imbalance. A clinical study on sensitive skins confirmed a soothing effect of ArL -containing formula in comparison with placebo. A reduction of skin redness and stinging/burning sensations was observed after 14 days of application. Another clinical study showed a moisturizing effect of ArL -containing formula in comparison with placebo after 7 and 21 days of application. In conclusion, ArL can promote balance and comfort of reactive skins, likely by strengthening skin barrier and contributing to microbiota balance.
Spoken Language: TBA Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiome The scalp is a specific skin area, with high follicular density and a high rate of sebum production. Often neglected because not so apparent, scalp health is getting more and more attention because it is now well admitted that hair health can also be affected by common afflictions of the scalp. Although scalp disorders are not generally associated with significant hair morbidity, the psychological impact of visible scalp problems may be very high. Scalp conditions are numerous and often associated with different symptoms. Dandruff is the most common scalp condition affecting close to 50% of the world's population, characterized by flaking scalp with or without discomfort sensation like itching and scalp irritation. Sensitivity of the scalp may occur without necessarily being linked to a visible skin affliction. The scalp can also suffer from biological disturbances resulting in excessive or premature hair loss. All these conditions are positively correlated to a disturbance of the scalp micro-environment, and particularly with sebum production and scalp microbiota composition. Dandruff can be associated with oily scalp, which favors the growth of fungi species like Malassezia restricta which digests sebum triglyceride and releases irritative free fatty acid. The mechanism underlying scalp sensitivity is not completely understood but this phenomenon has been positively correlated with an increase in scalp sebum production and lower scalp bacteria diversity compared to a non-sensitive scalp. Moreover, scalp sensitivity is linked to hair loss. Scalp conditions management deserve a holistic approach considering the scalp environment (oily/non oily) and its microbiota composition and balance. This prompted us to conduct a comprehensive study based on DNA sequencing analysis, to observe the microbiome diversity and beneficial strains highly represented in the normal and oily scalp, to compare them to identify factors which drives changes in scalp microbiome.
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiology From an historical point of view we started with some single microbiological product tests and some challenge tests. Then it became obvious to compile all microbiological tasks in one system (MQM), especially to fulfill the requirements from the latest cosmetic regulations. The microbiological tasks concern all the processes (development of new products, manufacturing, controls, quality management, regulation) and therefore need to be coordinated. Consequently, a system approach became necessary. All microbiological tasks (definition of goals, control tests, hygiene measures, risk assessment/prevention, optimizations, change control, documentation) should be integrated in this MQM system, including the relevant GMP regulations. The MQM is used as QMS (quality management system) for which the producer is responsible. He/she has to build up the system, which can be based upon other systems and specific microbiological additions, and makes use of it to achieve the microbiological goals. Working with this system requires defined qualifications and intense communication with other relevant departments. Finally, the MQM is as well the basis for the safety assessment and the safety statement.
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiology Microbiological problems and recalls are not becoming fewer in the last years, although producers increasingly realize the impact of microbiology and hygiene on the product quality. Dealing with less and less preservation as well as less and less desinfection calls for more effective microbiological activities by means of a system approach with MQM. The challenge is to keep the microbiological risks under control, but also to respect the cost-situation in a reasonable way. Risk management takes care of all the experiences and is a holistic approach. It needs to be implemented on all the steps, it creates rules where necessary, employs essential controls and an appropriate evaluation of results. The installation and control of the hygiene system can be used as an example. The goal is an early recognition of mistakes and adapted follow up actions on the basis of root cause analysis. E.g., failures are detected by means of control tests and respective corrective actions are taken. This may also have a positive cost impact. Change control – an important aspect of the MQM-system – leads to effective and adequate decisions. E.g., the change of the production method for the bulk implies adapted control points, challenge tests and hygiene measures. Cost-optimization can be achieved at different points if controls are well planned. Adaptations of controls or reduction of control extent can be done. This should, however, not only be done from the cost point of view but always needs a check and validation with respect to the microbiological safety. This should as well be observed when outsourcing control activities. Moreover, it should be considered that outsourcing activities always have to be embedded in MQM system.
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / Microbiology The preservation of cosmetics means an essential task when striving for the microbiological safety of cosmetics and is also required by the cosmetics regulation. Choosing a suitable preservation system not only demands for adequate efficacy, but must also include compatibility aspects. This becomes an increasing challenge in times where “no” preservation or “alternative preservation” is discussed in public. The choice of the preservation system requires many important considerations: the selection of a reliable supplier, the preservative must fit into the formula, must be stable during all production processes and effective during the entire shelf-life. In addition, legal requirements are asking for a sufficient evidence of the efficacy, which needs the application of appropriate test protocols (e.g. challenge test acc. to ISO 11930 and other complementary tests). The relevance for practice of the applied test methods should be counter-checked through market surveillance. The efficacy of the preservative system may be affected through a number of factors like some formulation ingredients, production method and stability aspects. Therefore, various measures shall be implemented by which a reliable control of the preservation efficacy is possible (e.g. controlled up scaling, change control and supplier control). To cope with all such challenges, a holistic quality management system (QMS) is required. For all measures related to microbiology this shall be defined and implemented by an appropriate and individual Microbiological Quality Management system (MQM). This system must ensure that the preservation contributes in a reliable way to the microbiological product safety.
15:00 - 15:30
EcoSun Pass: A Tool to Evaluate the Ecofriendliness of UV Filters Used in Sunscreen Products
Dr. Sascha Pawlowski, BASF
Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Light, UV and Environment Cosmetic products are widely used around the globe and the demand for high quality and safe products is still rising. In recent time, the environmental impact of cosmetic ingredients gets increasingly into focus. UV light absorbing agents as part of sunscreen products are currently under scrutiny whether they might negatively impact the environment such as corals and coral reef community. Therefore, a scientific based tool entitled “EcoSun Pass” was developed which enables the evaluation of the ecofriendliness of UV filters used in sunscreen products. EcoSun Pass is the first tool which allows the combined assessments of both, environmental impact and efficiency of UV filters. As a first step, a hazard score of a UV-filter was identified using available physico-chemical, environmental fate and ecotoxicological data. At second, the hazard score of this substance was multiplied by its concentration in the product. For a certain composition of UV-filters, the sum of these results represents an ecotoxicological ranking value of the product, which is then related to the maximum achievable level. The resulting relative ranking value allows the optimization of the composition of sunscreen products with respect to most ecofriendly properties.
15:30 - 16:00
Sun Protection – New SPF-Methods Make UV-Protection Visible, Wavelength by Wavelength.
Uli Osterwalder, Sun Protection
Spoken Language: TBA Category: Cosmetic Science / Light, UV and Environment The imminent break-through of new sun protection factor (SPF) test methods will open up a whole range of new understanding and new opportunities to improve sun protection further, e.g. towards uniform protection, aka spectral homeostasis. The SPF as defined by Franz Greiter 60 years ago measured protection against the natural sun. The current gold standard ISO 24444 uses solar simulated UV radiation with a bias towards UVB radiation and the complete lack of visible light. We can fill-in this blind spot by transmission measurement in vitro or calculation based on the absorption and scattering of the UV filters (in silico). Such alternative SPF methods have been under development for many decades, but none of them can be used as a complete surrogate of ISO 24444 so far. The hybrid diffuse reflectance method (HDRS) comes closest because it is also based on an in vivo data, while not generating an erythema. Replacing an established method by an improved, simpler, faster or more accurate method happens in many areas, especially in health care. To give all relevant alternative methods a fair chance to be evaluated, a group of stakeholders such as sunscreen manufacturers, UV filter suppliers, testing institutes, equipment suppliers, academia and other experts formed the Consortium ALT-SPF. The German Society of Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK e.V.) has been actively involved in the test design. The statistical concept has been developed by Quodata GmbH, which specializes in interlaboratory testing, validation of measurement methods, experimental and sampling design. An alternative SPF method should fulfil the condition of commercial neutrality, i.e. the commercial bias (systematic bias for single products) is negligible in comparison to the reproducibility standard deviation according to ISO 5725. This paper presents the progress and first results of the Consortium ALT-SPF.
16:00 - 16:30
Stress Detection on Skin - EPR Investigations of Cutaneous Redox Status
Dr. Silke Lohan, Charité - Universitätsmedizin Berlin
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / Light, UV and Environment Free radicals in the body are essential for the metabolism, signal transport and are part of our immune response. Nevertheless, if they exceed a certain level, they could be turn detrimental. Furthermore, some stress is healthy but chronic stress or a high level could induce pathological effects. The point or region where it turns is of high interest. If stress occurs, first reactive oxygen species (ROS) are formed which can be well controlled by the antioxidant system. Does the stress increased, secondly C-centered (CCR) or alkoxy radicals (lipid oxygen species, LOS) are produced – thus, the partitioning of the different types of radicals could give information about the stress level. To measure the amount and type of radicals, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was used. A new method using PCA for quantification, DMPO for characterization only, and an UVALED for in situ irradiation was applied on porcine ear skin. The study revealed that during UVA radiation the ratio of ROS and LOS turned with increasing dose. The region of turn appears at half of the minimal erythema dose of UVA. Important is a sufficient irradiance of the UVA light, because at low irradiance adaptation processes inhibit the revers effect. Furthermore, CCR stayed stable and ascorbic radicals decreases with increasing dose. This method could detect heat induced stress in the skin of pre-stressed pigs in the summer time due to temperatures above 35°C during husbandry or transport. In these ears, the ratio was already reversed, more LOS were produced right from the start of irradiation. This illustrates that the ratio of ROS and LOS produced by irradiation in skin could be used as a stress marker.
09:00 - 09:15
Mycelium: the Future of “Lab Grown” Actives for Personal Care
Britta Arendes, Active Concepts Srl
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair and Skin Care An air of mystery surrounds mushrooms, but certain species are in high demand for their superfood like benefits and medicinal properties. Renowned mycologists are also championing the power of mycelium, which has produced many new molecules of significant benefit across diverse industries, from food and pharmaceuticals through to fuel, packaging, textiles and even building materials. Mycelium is the vegetative part of a fungus consisting of a single-cell wide interwoven mass of branching, thread-like hyphae. Coined as the ‘wood wide web’ this interconnected system transports nutrients and information through the soil to trees and plants, living in complete symbiosis with its environment. Rich in bio-actives such as polysaccharides, β-glucan, terpenoids and sterols, mycelium is also used as a nutritional supplement often targeted for boosting the immune system. Contemporary research shows that mycelium has the ability to promote antimicrobial, anti-viral and immunomodulatory properties. Sustainability in personal care has received growing interest from consumers and the industry itself. Harnessing the unique power of mycelium provides a novel approach to the production of “Lab Grown” active ingredients with little cost to environment. The process of growing mycelium results in limited waste, which is mostly compostable, and requires minimal energy consumption.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Propolis has been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years. For example, it is said to help with wound healing and colds. Propolis is a resinous mass made by bees with antibiotic, antiviral and antifungal effects. It is used in the beehive to seal small openings, gaps and crevices and also helps to keep the hive sterile. It consists largely of resins and waxes and usually contains 3-15% polyphenols, which are responsible for the effectiveness of the product. Flavocare is a high-purity propolis extract, which is produced using a patented extraction process and enables a high concentration of polyphenols, without any harmful substances. This ensures high product activity. Various clinical studies have demonstrated the antibacterial effects of Flavocare and its effectiveness in deodorants and anti-acne products has been proven. In deodorants, it has been proven to reduce the smell after 8 hours, ideal for natural or aluminium-free deodorants. In an anti-acne product, acne lesions and sebum production could be sustainably reduced. Flovocare also has an anti-inflammatory effect, can reduce reddening of irritated skin, reduce TEWL and improve skin moisture. These properties make Flavocare ideal for products for sensitive skin, anti-acne products, and the normal day care products in which protection from the environment and regulating function are combined all in one.
09:30 - 09:45
Kannabia Sense PLF - Postbiotic Stimulation of Neurotransmitter Synthesis by Signal Lipids
Daniel Robustillo, Vytrus Biotech S.L.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care KANNABIA SENSE PLF, signal lipids (SCFA) enriched in the oleosomes of Cannabis Sativa stem cells (THC-free), stimulates the formation of neurotransmitters in the skin cells and in the microbiota. Through the in-situ synthesis of beneficial postbiotics, oxytocin is activated via the connection between microbiota, skin and brain, thus having a positive influence on the negative state of mind and its signs - for a better feeling of well-being and a radiantly beautiful complexion. The human skin is the reflection of the soul and has been connected to the nervous system and the brain since embryonic development. Recent literature describes the skin as the third brain and as a new neuroendocrine organ. Skin cells are able to synthesize a variety of endocrine neurochemicals such as dopamine, oxytocin, endorphins. The microbiota is the uppermost layer of the skin and has a much greater metabolism potential than human cells. The skin microbiota can metabolize an active ingredient derived from a plant cell culture and produce an in-situ postbiotic that significantly increases the synthesis of oxytocin by keratinocytes and neurons. The "excited" keratinocytes stimulate the nerve endings that connect the skin directly to the brain. The positive communication loop between the skin and the brain is stimulated and intensified, resulting in a better state of health and appearance of the skin. We have been able to prove the mechanism of action and effectiveness in numerous scientific studies. The oxytocin level in the keratinocytes and neurons was significantly increased and we were able to prove in vivo a higher neuronal activity in brain areas of the pleasure zone (Prefrontal Pleasure Center PCC) in fMRI. This leads to a mood brightening effect, which significantly improved the negative feelings compared to the placebo group and reduced the visible signs of skin (frown & marionette wrinkles).
09:45 - 10:00
Cosphaderm® Tapmix: An Innovative, Highly Efficient and Natural Antioxidative Blend
Dr. Carsten Dietz, Cosphatec GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Antioxidants Oils and waxes as important components of cosmetic formulations need to be protected against oxidation. In the best case, the antioxidation system shows high efficiency, has low influence on the colour, is all-natural, COSMOS-approved and GMO-free, as well as user-friendly and without any negative health related side effects. Cosphaderm® Tapmix consists of rapeseed-derived mixed tocopherols, sunflower-sourced - organic lecithin, COSMOS-approved ascorbyl palmitate and sunflower oil. This innovative blend combines several positive effects, eliminates dissolving problems with ascorbyl palmitate and is healthwise beneficial. The great antioxidation efficiency of vitamin E and the boosting effect of ascorbyl palmitate are well known. The composition of tocopherols is plant specific. Sunflower mainly produces α-tocopherol which is bioactive but less suitable for the protection of the oil phase. Soy bean derived tocopherols have a high content of ß-γ- and δ-tocopherol, are highly efficient in protecting oils but might be GMO-derived. Regarding the composition, our rapeseed-derived Cosphaderm® Tocopherols can be considered a sunflower and soy bean mixture regarding their composition. The combination with ascorbyl palmitate results in a highly effective blend. The organic sunflower lecithin in our Cosphaderm® Tapmix eliminates the well-known dissolving problem of ascorbyl palmitate and causes a high stability and user-friendliness. How efficient is our new Cosphaderm® Tapmix compared to pure mixed tocopherols, α-tocopherol and synthetic solutions? Is there also a bioactive benefit? Get the answers, background information and test results in our presentation.
10:00 - 10:15
Sustainable Actives Made of Microalgae Protection and Repair Following the Archetype of Nature
Dr. Sandra Christian, GloryActives GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Microalgae have existed on our planet for nearly 4 billion years and were the precondition for organic life. In order to survive under the extreme conditions on our planet at the beginning they have developed strategies to defend their cells against the harmful impacts of UV radiation and other environmental burden. In this lecture we would like to show how to use these strategies of the microalgae for the development of cosmetic actives. These actives adopt the mechanisms of microalgae to protect and repair our skin cells. Microalgae are the valuable feedstock for our actives, which are being produced with sustainable production techniques.
10:15 - 10:30
Exclusive J-Beauty Ingredients to European Skin Care Market
Dr. rer. nat Emin Hrsic, Kao Chemicals Europe, S.L.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care J-Beauty appeared in the market as a strong defender of preventive solutions rather than corrective, with innovative developments and high-quality products with long-term reliability. This concept has had a big impact in Western lifestyle, as it helps to balance stressed routines and brings scientifically proven results. In this presentation, some exclusive Japanese ingredients for skin care are introduced. An extremely moisturizing emollient with a skin biomimetic structure and non-greasy feeling and an emulsifier for W/O emulsions specially designed to avoid sticky feeling and provide easy spreadability.
11:00 - 11:15
HydroxySHIELD™ Polymer for Long Lasting Conditioning and Protection Benefits
Charline Roche-Julien, Dow Silicones Belgium SPRL
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Every hair type, whether dark or blonde, fine or thick, curly or straight, needs care and protection benefits from every day grooming routines. HydroxySHIELD™ Polymer is an innovative amino-modified silicone that directly addresses these needs with an exceptional sensorial experience in different chassis. In rinse-off applications, this polymer delivers outstanding performance in dry friction reduction and reduced breakage with additional benefits for color protection, ease of wet and dry combing, enhanced smoothness, fast drying, styling with less heat, and durable conditioning at low use levels. Repeated combing tests show hair treated with a rinse-off conditioner containing this polymer significantly reduces hair breakage by 90% after 10,000 combing cycles compared to a conditioner without silicone. In a cleansing conditioner, long lasting color protection can be also achieved even after 24 washes. The product is available as a low viscosity fluid which enables ease of formulation for various types of applications, including rinse-off conditioner, shampoo, cleansing conditioner, permanent colorant, and sulfate-free shampoo. All of these benefits ultimately make HydroxySHIELD™ Polymer an excellent solution for conditioning in the hair market. ™ Trademark of Dow or an affiliated company of Dow
11:15 - 11:30
Conditioning Booster for Damaged Hair Repairing and Protection
PhD Jacqueline Morais, OXITENO
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Styling and coloring hair are ways to express individuality. Such practices make use of chemical and thermal procedures that result in aggressions to hair’s fiber structure. Also, sun exposure, pollution and daily grooming can impart some degree of harm. Main damages comprise fragments, edges and raised cuticles; changes in hair hydrophobicity – by removing the natural lipid layer as leaving negatively charged protein residues onto surface –; and even changes in the cortex structure by protein loss. The result is a shift in perception of macroscopic attributes in which hair looks dry, coarse, dull and brittle. A new solution based on a combination of cationic polymers and nonionic surfactants results not only on hair fiber repairing but also on protection from further harms. The contact angle of human hair tresses previously damaged by bleaching has increased from 41° up to 59° after a single application of the conditioning booster. Scanning electron micrographs taken after chemical and mechanical stresses demonstrate relevant reduction in the damaged area with evident cuticle sealing. The quantification of protein loss showed 2.5 times more protein retention in treated tresses when compared to untreated ones. Evaluation of mechanical resistance to abrasion showed stronger treated tresses with 4 times less breakages. The improvement of hair micro- and macroscopic attributes evidenced through a series of instrumental methods and validated by trained and untrained sensory panel can be translated into hair restoration to shine, easy to comb, smoothness and softness benefits to name a few. Accordingly, this new solution allows the development of products for damaged hair repair and protection addressing a consumer need as boosting not only hair conditioning but also self-esteem.
11:30 - 11:45
Vegan Silk, Crafted by White Biotechnology, a New Way to Take Care of Damaged Hair
Joachim Müller, Givaudan Deutschland GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Human hair can be damaged in many different ways. Frequently in everyday life, the natural fibres come into close contact with heat or chemical agents, which attack and damage their structure and can impair their visual appearance. In recent decades, various substances have been identified and developed by the cosmetic industry to minimize such influences. Previously, it has been shown that Silkgel, a breakthrough nature-inspired biopolymer from Givaudan Active Beauty, offers many unique benefits particularly for the use in hair care applications such as anti-pollution, anti-colour-fading and sensorial features. A completely new application for this highly innovative, vegan and biomimetic raw material presents its use as conditioning agent to protect and repair the hair structure from damages. Due to its defined composition and its ability to self-assembly, the vegan silk polypeptides inside the Silkgel are able to form a protective and conditioning film onto the hair surface. Therefore, vegan silk molecules can represent a real alternative to traditional and chemical protective conditioning agents based on hydrolysates such as keratin, wheat protein and wheat starch. According to our latest findings, it has been demonstrated that vegan silk polypeptides used as protective or repair conditioning agents were able to increase the tensile strength of thermally treated and dyed hair. Thus, in contrast to conventional raw materials based on e.g. silicones, which are commonly used for hair conditioning and protection, vegan silk represents a sustainable, nature-inspired and vegan alternative with an excellent protective and repairing performance for both thermal treatment and colouration of hair thereby meeting the expectations of the highly innovative clean beauty market.
11:45 - 12:00
Multiple Use of Water-soluble Chitosan Biopolymer Complexes in Hygiene and Cosmetics
Oliver Brabänder, HTB Oberhausen
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Chitosan as a biopolymer is obtained from chitin as a basic natural substance. This abundantly available raw material is particularly known for its conditioning properties in hair and skin cosmetics and in the hygiene sector. Furthermore, Chitosan has very good antimicrobial, antibacterial, antifungal and even virucidal properties. The film forming properties are used in hair and skin care as well as in the hair styling and home care sector. During application, however, the solubility is a challenge. It is insoluble in water and thus cannot be formulated directly on the matrix. The solubility of Chitosan is classically shown by the following methods: Covalent modification of the molecule; colloidal encapsulation technologies; formation of solvates with acids. Apart from solvation, the described procedures involve considerable effort as an intermediate step until the Chitosan is ready for application. Especially with regard to the simplest procedure – solvation - there is a novelty value with regard to solvation to so-called LL-solvates (lipophilic-lipophilic solvate). These are 2 solvate complexing agents, which as such are insoluble in water and form a water-soluble complex by combination. These specialties are interesting for film forming properties in the hair and skin cosmetics sector as a substitute for microplastics and hard quarts by a clearly "greener" specialty, for the use as preservatives and also, for example, in the food sector. They are also suitable for the use of biopolymer complexes in hygiene formulations, for better skin compatibility of disinfectants and more lasting effectiveness as well as for virucidal prevention. These are only examples of the manifold application potential of designated biopolymer complexes. It can be assumed that Chitosan biopolymer complexes will become more and more important in the context of a more compatible and sustainable chemistry, will be a serious substitute for microplastics and may represent a new-green impulse.
12:15 - 12:30
Lamesoft® Balance – A Natural Way to Stabilize Performance Wax Dispersions in Rinse-off Applications
Anja Stork, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair- and Skin Cleansing Consumers are increasingly looking for added value and an extraordinary experience whilst using skin and hair cleansing products. The appearance of a cosmetic formulation builds a direct connection between the product itself and its’ positioning. A milky, white and creamy appearance for example provides a precious visual effect supporting emotional consumer needs and performance expectations such as mildness, soft skin and hair care sensation, moisturization, nourishing, conditioning and hair repair effects. Milk, lotion, cream and yoghurt concepts are gaining interest in the skin and hair cleansing market. Today’s environmental concerns raise consumers' demand not only for efficacious products, but also for sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly formulations. Natural based, biodegradable, opacifying wax dispersions offer alternatives to synthetic polymer based opacifiers creating not only a lotion-like white look in formulations but also providing significant skin and hair care benefits. The stabilization of these fine particle wax dispersions in rinse-off formulations is often very challenging, specifically if the use of synthetic stabilizing polymers should be avoided. Lamesoft® Balance is a natural way of stabilizing wax-based opacifying ingredients in skin and hair cleansing formulations. Due to its composition of hydrogenated castor oil blended with an alkylpolyglucoside it is cold processable and easy to formulate. It acts as a natural structurant in surfactant-based systems, especially those which can be micellar thickened, providing a pleasant and homogenous rheology in finished formulations. The 100% natural based Lamesoft Balance fulfils today’s demand for environmentally friendly products and is suitable for use in natural cleansing concepts according to Eco-labels as well as for natural certified cosmetics such as COSMOS or NATRUE.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care and Body Care - Rinse Off Brenntag introduces Corbion´s new ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG (INCI-Name: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate). It is a readily biodegradable, extremely mild and natural lactylate which delivering superior performance to rinse-off formulations. ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG is the perfect co-surfactant, as it improves the mildness of the formulation, has good cleansing, conditioning and moisturizing properties and it can improve foam quantity and quality. It can reduce microbial growth, making it the perfect enhancement for the preservation system. Furthermore, ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG contributes to the product´s overall rheology by appearing thick and rich in the formulation, but shear and thin when poured and applied to the skin. Also, it acts as a coupling agent and solubilizer in anionic-surfactant-based formulations. ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG is perfectly suited for oral care, shampoos, hair conditioners, body washes and other cleansers. In short, ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG: - is readily biodegradable and extremely mild - enhances foam stabilization creating luxurious dense foam - delivers an excellent soft skin feeling and conditions hair - can be used in oral care formulations - boosts viscosity and is electrolyte tolerant - is natural - can solubilize fragrances - can enhance the preservative system in a formulation ESTERLAC© Balance+ NG is a new, natural and perfect solution for all cosmetic applications.
12:45 - 13:00
MACKADET® OPR-2 : the New Generation of Naturally-based Opacifier for Personal Care
Florence Bussod, SOLVAY
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care More and more countries around the world prohibited cosmetic products containing solid plastic particles inferior to 5 mm. in this framework, a proposal for a restriction of intentionally added microplastics in the EU has been published in January 2019 by ECHA, updated in March 2019. Styrene acrylates copolymers used as opacifiers would be considered as microplastics and would be banned in 2025. In this context Solvay has developed a new generation of natural-derived and readily biodegradable opacifier. Mackadet® OPR-2 provides the creamy, mat and caring appearance to formulations. Thanks to a white matter and rich opacifying efficacy, it is easy to formulate without the need for rheological agents if the viscosity of the formulation is >3000 cps. It is the perfect alternative to acrylate-based ingredients.
14:30 - 14:45
The Dramatic Make-up Effect of a New Di-ester of Penta-erythritol
Fabio Costiniti, Italmatch Chemicals SPA
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Both Skin Care and Colour Cosmetics In this HD age, the beauty care strategy is running after new advanced requirements, using different approaches (apps, tutorial, etc.). The development of new, very efficient make-up products is another fast growing trend. The extreme consumers’ expectations facing make-up products and the complexity of their formulations lead to continuous quests for developing new innovative recipes. We developed a new special soft wax, with the structure of a di-ester between stearic acid and penta-erythritol. Its performances in improving some key characteristics of make-up products show a dramatic influence on the main functionalities. Especially, the enhancement of shine effects and covering power, due to more homogeneous application. Improved colour rendering and lips volumizing capacity are also positively modified.
14:45 - 15:00
Baycusan® Eco E 1001: the New Naturally-derived film Former for More Sustainable Makeup
Astrid Wulfinghoff, Covestro Deutschland AG
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives Today’s consumers expect not only high-performance and new sensorial experiences from cosmetic products, they also desire to lower environmental impact with their daily personal care routine. Until now, formulators had faced the challenge of needing to choose between high-performance synthetic and natural components. Too often, the use of 100% natural raw materials in formulations was connected with visible and tangible disadvantages. In the color cosmetics segment, there are clear opportunities for more sustainable formulations. New product development is still not meeting the requirement of consumers on greener and high-performing makeup products. Film formers are crucial ingredients for makeup formulations as they impart must-have, long-lasting properties. So by using the next generation of bio-based film formers, formulators can increase natural content of traditional high-performing makeup formulations and also improve the properties of natural makeup products. Covestro presents its second partially bio-based film former, Baycusan® eco E 1001, specially designed to tackle this color cosmetics challenge. The product consists of more than 50 percent renewable carbon and may be labeled as a naturally-derived ingredient in accordance with ISO Standard 16128. Baycusan® eco E 1001 achieves at least the same desired performance level as synthetic film formers – especially in formulations where long lasting and transfer resistance are important. Baycusan® eco E 1001 imparts waterproofness, water-, sweat-, rub-off and transfer resistance to color cosmetic formulas, such as foundation and mascara. The new film former is an excellent way of enhancing the naturalness of makeup formula without compromising on performance
15:00 - 15:15
Euxyl ECO 910 - a New Antimicrobials Looking Forward
Matthias Hentz, Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Antimicrobials An antimicrobial blend that isn't sensitive to pH, surfactants and in line with the COSMOS standard? Our new preservative blend euxyl® ECO 910 provides broad spectrum functionality, safety and ingredients being inspired by nature. For euxyl® ECO 910 we found lemongrass being the perfect trend-setting addition to our well-established portfolio of antimicrobials. The striking smell brings freshness to every cosmetic product. euxyl® ECO 910 creates a very unique and appealing cosmetic product. It combines enhanced antimicrobial efficacy at an acceptable dosage among a broad pH range with scenting properties. euxyl® ECO 910 can be used for natural cosmetics in either leave-on, rinse-off or wet wipe formulations up to pH 8. euxyl® ECO 910 - Fresh product protection with carefully selected natural oil.
15:15 - 15:30
DEOBIOME NONI PRCF - Natural & Microbiome Friendly Deodorant
Karsten Lingen, novoclon GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The active ingredient DEOBIOME NONIPRCF is an innovative biological deodorant that safely and permanently prevents the development of body odour. Conventional deodorant active ingredients usually pursue two strategies, by clogging sweat glands or by bactericidal action. DEOBIOME NONIPRCF is different and follows the concept of a biological deodorant. It allows the skin to continue its natural function and has been proven to be very well tolerated by microorganisms of the microbiom. The concept of the biological deodorant is based on two strategies. One is a biological strategy: plant quorum quenching molecules (QQ) prevent bacterial communication (as quorum sensing by signal molecules) and the formation of undesirable biofilms and are involved in the production of bad odours. On the other hand, a prebiotic strategy: DEOBIOME NONIPRCF represents an innovative prebiotic cocktail based on sugars that modifies the metabolism of commensal skin microbiota from lipids to polysaccharides and reduces the production of bad smelling molecules. Numerous tests prove the effectiveness of DEOBIOME NONIPRCF, we can prove the mechanism of action and the effectiveness on the user. We show the quorum quenching (QQ) activity and the reduction of the quormone synthesis (LUX-S/LUX-R). This causes the proven broadband bacteriostatic effect (Gram+, Gram- & Fungi) and the prevention of biofilm formation. The active ingredient has also proven its microbiome compatibility and protects commensal bacteria from pathogenic germs. In vivo we determined the odour intensity by sniff test and by analysis with gas chromatography combined with mass spectroscopy (GC-MS). We tested in the armpit and on the foot, and we also determined the sweat rate in the armpit. We were thus able to prove that we have a highly effective and very well tolerated deodorant that meets the requirements of the modern market (aluminium-free, vegan, natural cosmetics, no preservatives).
16:00 - 16:15
Can Emulsions and Alcohol-based Systems also be Thickened Naturally?
Laura Ratz, Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care In most cosmetic products, consistency enhancers are indispensable. But is it possible to use natural ingredients? In this year’s presentation, our team will show you a range of versatile and innovative raw materials that thicken and stabilize both emulsions and alcohol-based systems in a natural way. We’ll introduce you to the newly launched Kelco-Care™ Diutan Gum, an innovative raw material which achieves a thickening effect in emulsions as well as in alcohol-based systems. Taking a natural hand sanitizer gel as an example, we’ll demonstrate that Kelco-Care™ Diutan Gum can thicken alcoholic systems with 70% ethanol. Furthermore, we’ll present a rich hand cream formulation in which Kelco-Care™ Diutan Gum proves that even emulsions can be thickened and stabilized effectively. Based on rice, corn or tapioca, natural NATIVACARE™ starches combine perfectly with Kelco-Care™ Diutan Gum to offer effective solutions for thickening emulsions. In addition to providing thickening properties, the starches also allow for the creation of different textures and sensory experiences. Additionally, the BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ range contains other natural options for building consistency. These products not only thicken the water phase and offer thixotropic properties but generate textures that are both pleasant and silky. Based on hectorite, BENTONE HYDROCLAY™ 2000 is one of the most efficient rheological additives and provides formulations with viscoelastic characteristics. We take on these challenges and more in our innovative formulations, made to match current trends such as masks for skin and hair. Get ready to be inspired.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care When following the cosmetics market closely a rise in Indie brands could be observed over the last few years. These new market players try to meet a consumer need for transparency, sustainability and intimacy that the major brands sometimes lack. Today’s consumers are well informed and know exactly what they want and where to get it. As a result, the requirements for product developments have changed drastically. Faster launch cycles, new regulations, rising market trends such as minimalism and naturality are hereby just a few examples of the New Normal that need to be addressed on a daily basis. Momentive’s +IVE formulations are specifically designed to inspire, assist and meet those trends while not compromising on performance. Imagine long lasting foundations with high levels of vegetable oils, waterless hair care or novel luxurious textures for facial creams. This innovatively manufactured combination of natural ingredients and silicones used in this formulation concept enables formulators to achieve unique, high level products to answer today’s consumer needs.
16:30 - 16:45
How Artificial Intelligence Reveals the Impact of a New Cosmetic Ingredient on the Emotional Wellbeing
Hagen Döring, Provital, S.A.U.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care In an environment that promotes overall wellbeing as a life philosophy, Wonderage™ was born. It is a well-aging ingredient that balances the epigenetics of mature skin and enhances natural radiance, what positively impacts on emotional wellbeing. Being committed to innovation Provital, for the first time, conducted a neurostudy to measure, with Artificial Intelligence, the emotional impact of using its active ingredient Wonderage™ on the well-being of women. The 56 day placebo controlled neurostudy comprised 47 volunteers. The samples were applied day and night to the face and neck. Using Mindlogics® Artificial Intelligence technology, the differential results of the conscious mind’s responses could be compared to those of the subconscious mind, and the results were subsequently translated into emotions. Subconsciously, the volunteers stated that they felt happier, more enthusiastic and with a greater quality of life. In vitro study in mature skin fibroblasts demonstrated that Wonderage™ balances the epigenetics of mature skin, inhibiting over-expression of miRNAs involved in fibroblast yield and the synthesis of key components of dermal structure as hyaluronic acid, collagen I, collagen V, elastin and fibrillin. Ex vivo study on skin explants demonstrated that Wonderage™ boosts the synthesis of endogenous hyaluronic acid and decorin related to collagen fibres strengthening and ensuring therefore, good dermal structure that promotes a firming and filling effect. Double-blind in vivo study on 44 women that applied Placebo or Wonderage sample on face and neck, twice a day during 56 days, demonstrated that Wonderage™ enhances the skin’s natural radiance by increasing, differentially respect to placebo, luminosity, hydration, skin density and by reducing, wrinkles on eye contour area, neck, and tech-neck syndrome. The secret of Wonderage™ to balance mature skin ageing is the Monk Fruit. A fruit cultivated in a mountain valley in Guangxi, place known by the striking longevity of its inhabitants.
16:45 - 17:00
Formulating Environmental-friendly and Skin-gentle Hand Sanitizers
David Grandeau, Solvay Novecare
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Going through a deep sanitary crisis, most consumers have drastically changed their way of consuming, as well as the attention they pay on the labels on the packages. Disinfection has become a keyword, and hand sanitizers have passed from a niche personal care category to a growing need among the personal care users. Like masks are now part of our fashion routine, hydro alcoholic gels and disinfecting hand soaps are now part of our hand hygiene. In response to growing needs, Solvay has developed new formulations that are based on a unique Guar technology, allowing both the formulation of highly performing transparent hand sanitizers and soaps, as well the improvement of their environmental profile. By formulating with natural ingredients, we are able to achieve unique formulations that provide great skin sensorial and claims that will resonate to the post COVID-19 population.
17:00 - 17:15
Eyelight BH: a Multifunctional Active Ingredient for the Periorbital Area
Caroline Marlier, Grolman Group
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The skin around the eyes is particularly thin, about 4 times thinner than the rest of the face, and produces less sebum. It is therefore very sensitive; dryness wrinkles and other flaws such as dark circles and swollen bags under the eyes can quickly become noticeable. The causes can be varied: too little sleep, the consequence of age, weakness of the blood vessels... Good eye care should therefore face these challenges and ideally provide an answer to all of these problems. In addition, the product should have a very high level of compatibility with the eye and a low potential for irritation. Eyelight BH, combines well-known ingredients from herbal medicine and offers a multifunctional solution to effectively combat puffy eyes and dark circles: - Baobab oil is rich in antioxidants, tocopherols and tocotrienols, reduces UV-induced damage and protects the skin - Broccoli extract; is rich in vitamin K1 and helps improve blood circulation - Curry plant extract reduces inflammation in swollen eyes and also improves blood circulation A clinical study showed that the synergistic effect of these three substances could significantly reduce the swelling, dark circles and inflammation in the eye area for a fresh and rested look.
17:15 - 17:30
Efficacy Test for Proofing the Effectiveness of Foot Antiperspirant
Ines Sellami, SGS Institut Fresenius GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The number of antiperspirants for feet is wide. There is currently no standard or norm that describes a test directly at the site of action. There are also not enough data for a general transferability of the effectiveness of the product under the arms to the effectiveness of the product under the feet. The effectiveness of these products should therefore also be checked on the feet, the site of action and not under the armpit. We at SGS Institut Fresenius GmbH have developed a special test for this. The FDA Guidelines for effectiveness testing of OTC antiperspirant drug products was used as the basis for this new test. The test with volunteers is based on the same principles: selection of volunteers, preconditioning phase, application amount, implementation (gravimetry) and evaluation (Wilcoxon test, Z-Score). Only the test site is different, namely the site of action. The product is tested directly on the test subjects' feet.
16:00 - 16:30
No Plastic is not a Solution Either - Scenarios for a Sustainable De-fossilized Plastic Circular-economy
Prof. Dr. Thomas Müller-Kirschbaum, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA
Lecture language: German Category: Home Care / Packaging No environmental issue is discussed as emotionally as plastic waste. Hereby, the focus is on plastic packaging. While developed countries mainly focus on optimizing collection and material recovery, developing and emerging economies lack adequate collection systems. At the same time, plastics have undisputed sustainable benefits. Plastics save enormous amounts of packaging material, they allow thin-walled packaging with low weight for efficient transportation, they are mechanically highly stable, chemically inert to aggressive ingredients and can be perfectly adapted to a variety of requirements. Current measures to prevent waste are the avoidance, reuse and recycling of packaging. An important pillar is the recycling of packaging. Manufacturers are asked to design packaging recyclable and to integrate as much recycled material as possible. At the same time, the waste management industry is asked to constantly further develop the collection, sorting and recycling infrastructure in developed countries and even establish it in developing and emerging countries. A great potential is seen in the synergy of mechanical recycling with innovative processes such as chemical recycling. In these developments, not only the quantity, but also the provision of high-quality recycled materials must be the focus. The endpoint is a climate-neutral circular economy, in which the responsible use of plastic is fully integrated. The discussion of different sustainability scenarios demonstrates that a balanced combination of efficiency, high-quality mechanical and chemical recycling and the use of bio-based materials has the highest attractiveness in terms of economy and consumer acceptance. To realize this, the eco modulation of EPR fees and different CO2 fees are discussed.
16:30 - 17:00
Design of Efficient Foam Control Agents Enabling Sustainable Cleaning
Dr. Serge Creutz, DOW Silicones Belgium
Lecture language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents In recent years, the laundry process has evolved to reduce its environmental footprint: colder wash cycles, reduced rinses, more concentrated detergent formulations. These changes have led to a redesign of the surfactant types and ratios bringing new foam control challenges at affordable cost. The mechanisms of action of Silicone-based foam control agents will be discussed, explaining their ability to control foam at very low dosage in an extremely large scope of detergent concentrations, formulations and washing conditions. From these mechanisms, design of efficient foam control agents will be proposed supporting reduction in temperature of washing and water usage, as well as allowing further formulation compaction resulting in reduced packaging.
Lecture language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents Nowadays - in a more sustainable environment - product developers are aiming for consumer-relevant formats which address all three sides of the triangle with high performance, affordability and sustainability.. In the Home and Fabric Care market this resulted in an increase in compact systems for which new formulation challenges have emerged. In addition, the growing demand of customers and society as a whole for more sustainable raw materials has resulted in the need to reformulate many existing products to enable the use of these new materials. Rapid development of these formats is encouraging fast research to optimize systems regarding compaction, compatibilization and solubilization of ingredients but also anticipating the in-use properties and optimization of delivery systems. Within that context, Dow R&D has been developing a number of High-throughput techniques to study deeply and rapidly these challenges and come up with new mechanistic insights to offer effective solutions for the market. In this presentation we will discuss these tools, the range of physical and application properties that can be measured and how this data can be used to generate models correlating composition to properties and performance for a range of home care end use products.
During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. and the GDCh Division of Detergent Chemistry organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster in a short presentation. At the end of the poster session with the authors, the best pieces of work will be awarded. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
17:20 - 18:00
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Poster Award Ceremony (EDC)
Moderated by Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
The Forum for Innovation offers all exhibitors the possibility to present their latest developments in the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and fragrance industry as poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations