Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin and Hair Care It's all about stress – stress determines how we look like and how we feel. No wonder that consumers actively look for feelgood cosmetics helping them to manage stress boost their moods. This presentation elicits the protective effects of natural and very powerful antioxidants from lemon balm, barley grass and orange against external stress factors such as ROS, aggressive to hair and scalp due to airborne pollutants. Furthermore, it guides you to the fascinating world of the senses. Experience the positive effect of scent molecules from a South African resurrection plant on your mood and skin. RADICARE®-ECO and MYRAMAZE®-ESSENCE, two cosmetic active ingredients for hair and skin with surprising effects.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Consumers are asking for sustainable & safe formulations without sacrificing performance. Whether formulated for luscious locks, cute curls, or tamed tresses, hair care products must perform. Different hair types and climates are only two of the many factors to be considered. Traditionally, hair care uses quaternary ammonium compounds (Quats) and silicones to create high-performance formulations. Due to consumer concern, regulation changes, and the rise of free-from claims, it is increasingly important to choose alternatives with better environmental, social, and governance profiles. Natural and plant-based claims are often associated with Safety and Sustainability. However, these claims are only one part of truly sustainable formulations. Feedstock selection, reactions and manufacturing processes, as well as molecule degradation have to be considered to ensure reduced hidden trade-offs. We demonstrated plant-based amidoamines and amino lipids to be functionally comparable to Quats. They increase sustainability and mildness of formulations as they are biodegradable, non-toxic to aquatic life, and pose no irritation potential to skin and eyes. Compared to traditional ingredients, they help save energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Providing additional functional benefits to formulations, they can be used to create high-performance sustainable hair care with fewer ingredients in modern product formats. With their non-quat cationic charge, plant-based amidoamines and amino lipids offer a truly sustainable and functional answer.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Foam plays an essential role in the application of a wide variety of surfactant-containing liquids and is thus also a decisive factor in research and development as well as in quality assurance. The challenge for an effective assessment of the foaming behaviour is the reproducible foam generation, which additionally produces a foam that should be comparable to the one from the application. However, since foaming is largely dependent on boundary conditions such as energy input, temperature, concentration, etc., a metrological implementation must take these into account and keep them variable. In addition, a simple screening of the test and sample parameters facilitates an optimisation of these, with the aim of producing desired foam properties and distinguishing between different products and compositions. In addition to the foam volume, the foam structure is particularly characteristic of the foam for an overall evaluation of the foam produced. It can additionally provide a link to the haptic properties that are important for cosmetic products. However, the evaluation of the foam structure, i.e. the spatial distribution of the bubbles and geometry, represents a considerable effort in the evaluation and presentation of the different foams. A reduction of the series of structural images to meaningful parameters or foam properties is essential for an efficient foam analysis. In this work it is shown on the example of different shampoos how new foam parameters can be generated by a suitable evaluation of the height- and time-dependent structural properties. This enables an efficient comparison of different samples and their dependence on different boundary conditions.   

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care The SFA product range delivers our innovative Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate - a sustainable, naturally derived, and high performing anionic surfactant - in a variety of different products: Texapon® SFA (which is the Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate in paste form), Texapon® SFA UP Powder (the dried unpreserved Texapon® SFA in powder format), Dehyton® SFA (a liquid blend of Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate and CAPB) and Plantapon® SFA (a natural liquid blend made of Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate and APG). Launched recently, this family of products has already proven that it meets perfectly the most important consumer needs, such as a high eco profile, an outstanding mildness and an excellent foaming performance as well as a unique sensory. We performed new tests demonstrating that the SFA product range is perfectly suitable to design high performing natural hair care products, especially sulfate-alternative shampoos for treated hair. They can be formulated as liquids with a wide range of viscosity, from pumpable foaming products to viscous shampoos, but also as solid bars. We also highlight with new results that this product range is a good alternative to commonly used surfactants to formulate sustainable and mild oral care products such as toothpastes. Based on comprehensive experimental data we developed and optimized a predictive model to facilitate the formulation of ternary systems based on SFA, CAPB and APG. This enables to design efficiently new sustainable transparent liquid rinse-off products meeting important requirements such as foam and viscosity performance, as well as naturality.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Today, hair care consumers are increasingly focused on selecting products which contain natural ingredients without sacrificing performance. The primary ingredient in a styling gel is a hair fixative polymer, which maintains the shape and hold of the hair. Synthetic vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) are widely used as styling agents. These polymers provide good hold, are water soluble and enable creating clear formulations. However, they are from synthetic origin and do not exhibit great curl retention performance in high humidity conditions (25°C/80% RH). Regarding naturally- based hair fixative polymers, even if performances are reached for curl retention, they cannot generate clear hair styling formulations. Clear hair gel formula with sustainable hair fixative have long desired for a long time, as consumers associate clarity with superior quality and purity. MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer is a bio-based, biodegradable, 100% natural origin (ISO 16128) and ECOCERT certified hair styling polymer obtained from non-GMO corn starch with excellent gel clarity in water-based formulas. Compared to the first generation of naturally-based hair fixatives from Dow with MaizeCare™ Style Polymer, MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer allows to create crystal clear formulations without compromising styling benefits and this, in various hair care application formats. MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer is a film-former and styling aid that can range from soft-touch styling to exceptional stiffness without flaking effect. MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer is cold processable and can be quickly dispersed in water under low shear mixing conditions. It is compatible with rheology modifiers commonly used in hair gels such as carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose and natural based thickeners.  Application test results demonstrate optical clarity, hair stiffness, and high humidity curl retention (25°C/80% RH) better than PVP and other natural hair fixatives. MaizeCare™ Clarity Polymer is the obvious choice for high performing, clear and naturally derived products aligned with consumer needs.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care EMOGREEN™ HP 40 extends the high-purity sustainable EMOGREEN™ range of emollients. Obtained by a patented process, EMOGREEN™ HP 40 is a textured and slightly viscous emollient. It is a new generation of emollients that offers an effective and sustainable alternative to heavy silicones, mineral oils and other synthetic emollients. 100% Plant-based, this patented and inherently biodegradable emollient offers the solution of a more virtuous environmental footprint. Versatile texturizing ingredient, EMOGREEN™ HP 40 imparts film forming properties with a smooth enveloping and supple afterfeel with no tacky effect. This oustanding multifaceted capacity will significantly enhance the efficacy and specific seeked performance of any type of cosmetic applications (skin care, make-up, sun care, etc.). In particular, manufacturers and end-users of hair care products will definitely acknowledge the thermal protection performance of this emollient that offers the same sensory and applicative benefits of silicones (Dimethicone/Dimethiconol, Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethiconol) without their drawbacks (greasy and sticky sensation). Plus, EMOGREEN™ HP 40 helps to preserve keratin structure under thermal treatment in order to maintain the hair healthy and protected. Other additional performance such as anti-frizz, volume control and easy combing have been demonstrated thanks to the product’s substantivity on the hair fiber and its ability to smooth out the hair scales.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives Consumers seek for „greener“ makeup. The development of modern formulations becomes challenging as consumers require products that guarantee a strong, long-lasting performance and keep high level of plant-based ingredients. The new naturally-derived Baycusan® eco E 1001 film former can help tackle this challenge. With its 56% bio-based content, it fulfills the criteria of a naturally-derived ingredient according to the ISO 16128 norm and imparts outstanding benefits to mascara and liquid foundation formulations. Discover our new natural & long-lasting makeup formulations concepts with Baycusan® eco E 1001 naturally-derived and biodegradable film former: volumizing mascara, waterproof eyeliner, lash- & brow styling gel, liquid foundation or makeup setting sprays.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Sustainability What are the advantages and disadvantages of screening everyday consumer products for microplastics? What influence do those smallest components of detergents, cleaning and care products have on the big picture? How can a seemingly invisible abrasion be qualitatively and quantitatively recorded - and how can the findings and the resulting added value be certified?  Join us on an exciting expedition: Where do we currently stand in terms of microplastic emissions, what does the future hold for us and, above all, how can we optimally prepare our products for upcoming challenges in the area of microplastics - and thus raise those products to the next sustainability level?  Those are questions that we, as experts at the accredited testing laboratory Weber & Leucht GmbH, address with facts and figures. Based on standardized methods, our MLC assessment enables the exact classification of a test sample with regard to its expected microplastic release during its life cycle. Thus, our MLC assessment forms an essential part of product-specific ecodesign.   Whether microfiber cloths, disinfection systems, decorative cosmetics, detergents in liquid or powder form are examined - practical examples from different areas of application demonstrate the complexity and flexibility of the index and illustrate the informative value and the options for labelling a determined emission level.  It is essential to prepare for future regulations in the best possible way today with the available technical means, and to uncover and utilize potential for improvement.  We present our experience from six years of intensive international project work and introduce the tool developed from it for assessing and optimizing raw materials and end products. Besides, we look over the rim of our tea cup towards the requirements of tomorrow - for people, products and the preservation of the environment.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care In a world where environmental concerns keep increasing, sustainable strategies must be found to reduce our impact on the environment. As part of the IFF group, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has access to various plant waste once LMR Naturals extract natural olfactory compounds. Since these by-products are not altered, they still contain various precious active phytochemicals extracted and concentrated in the Wastar™ upcycled collection. Rich in polyphenols, Wastar™ Lavender is derived from the valorization of lavender waste and protects skin against indoor pollution for a healthy glow. The impact of pollutants emitted by indoor spaces on skin has been recently highlighted due to people's prolonged time at home. Using an innovative in vivo technique enabled the evaluation of Wastar™ Lavender protective action on volunteers' skin exposed to indoor pollutants. It prevented indoor-pollution skin damage to improve skin luminosity for a healthy glow while supporting claims about safety and well-being at home Rich in biflavonoids, Wastar™ Pink Berry is derived from the valorization of pink berry waste and soothes irritation for scalp relief. The contribution of physical causes on scalp irritation has recently come to light, particularly in the case of covered heads creating a confined atmosphere for the scalp, in addition to the friction. Clinically tested on volunteers who frequently wear a hijab or helmet, Wastar™ Pink Berry minimized redness, decreased itching, and reduced the appearance of flakes in only 7 days. Wastar™ collection has a sustainable sourcing. The lavender is organically grown in Provence, in the South of France. The  pink berries come from southeastern Madagascar with a socio-responsible supply chain which is For Life certified, guaranteeing an ethical relationship with local producers. They are preservative-free, China-compliant, COSMOS approved, 100% natural origin (ISO 16128), and vegan-certified. Wastar™ Pink Berry is halal certified.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Sustainability TEGOSOFT® LO MB (INCI: Lauryl Oleate) is the latest addition to Evonik’s unique portfolio of enzymatically produced emollients. This Evonik patented novel cosmetic oil offers a natural alternative to mineral oil with a comparable sensory. As it is fully based on renewable sources, fully biodegradable and produced via enzymatic catalysis, it provides great ecological benefits compared to mineral oil. In addition, Evonik fully compensates any residual not yet avoidable greenhouse gas emissions externally by carbon offsetting according to the Verified Carbon Standard (VCS). TEGOSOFT® LO MB can be used for all skin care applications. In addition, it provides special benefits for color cosmetics with its excellent pigment wetting properties.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Completely different from what we thought, not only humans and animals can communicate with each other, but bacteria and plants can also exchange information. Biologists speak of a "Copernican turn" that could shake our image of simple life forms. They produce quormones to communicate and coordinate with each other, e.g. as soon as a bacteria has reached the quorum it can become virulent. Plants have developed a special defense mechanism, the Quorum Quenching and produce molecules that prevent bacterial communication, so the bacteria do not become pathogenic and attack them. Vytrus Biotech has now developed a new approach to produce these anti-quorum molecules by simulating a bacterial attack on a totipotent plant cell culture. This results in an active ingredient that positively affects the skin's microbiome, has a broad-spectrum bacteriostatic effect and prevents the formation of biofilms. A series of active ingredients have been developed that inhibit gene expression by reducing LuxS, thereby preventing the germs from synthesizing quormones. The active ingredients also have a high anti-inflammatory effect by modulating Toll-Like Receptor 2, thus preventing bacteria from entering the body's cells. The active substances are absolutely microbiome compatible and have no negative influence. We do not attack the bacteria and fungi, but their ability to communicate and coordinate with each other. We then get active ingredients that work against impurities and inflammatory processes in the skin, that refine pores, that reduce the formation of negative odor molecules in the armpit or that rejuvenate the skin's microbiome and thus have an anti-aging effect. Of course, a large number of studies prove the effectiveness of our Active Ingredients.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Hydration has been a key cosmetics concern at the core of marketing claims since decades. Especially, hand skin dehydration is a common concern for many consumers during wintertime or when using aggressive hygiene procedures. Here, a new sustainable cosmetic ingredient for skin care, created by upcycling valuable side-streams from Lactobacillus probiotics manufacturing, is investigated for hand skin moisturization. The effect on skin moisturization and smoothing of the ingredient is assessed. An in vivo study was performed on 13 healthy volunteers and a protocol combining standardized corneometric measurement of the hand stratum corneum and the capture of digital macro images using a new camera was set up. The camera provides high resolution images and 3D reconstruction of the skin surface. Smart image analysis algorithms previously developed to analyse skin surface pattern parameters were applied to the 3D reconstruction and used to follow up and quantify the benefits of the ingredient over time. Corneometric measurements confirmed the moisturizing effect of the ingredient versus placebo as soon as 1 hour after application. Besides, a statistically significant benefit of the moisturizer on the skin surface pattern was registered versus placebo, based on roughness and microrelief pattern parameters computed from 3D images (comparison between products effects, p < 0.05). Finally, the efficacy was modelled using a unique developed algorithm enabling to project moisturizing results visually onto a 3D whole hand skin model. Thanks to this new combined approach, the performance for skin moisturization of the ingredient based on Lactobacilli fermentation broth has been demonstrated both on the skin moisture contents and on skin microrelief patterns. The ingredient combines a high degree of efficacy with a reduction of environmental impact thanks to the upcycling process.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Consumer expectations of personal care products are expanding to include efficacious delivery/performance as well as environmental impact. At the same time, the definition of skin is shifting from a static view to a dynamic and complex ecosystem of microbes living on the skin. The GENENCARE® XL story embraces this changing skin microbiome narrative with a moisturization ingredient that is upcycled from a wood processing side stream.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Stretch marks are caused by stretching of the skin, usually associated with weight gain, pregnancy, adolescent growth spurts.... In this Covid-19 pandemic period, the level of sedentary lifestyle reached records. Eating habits changed (1). With documented tendencies to gain weight, the probability to get stretchmarks increased. The change in aesthetic may generate a decrease of self-esteem, and the need to have an efficient solution against stretchmarks is real, yet challenging to achieve in vivo. Another parameter affecting loss of self-esteem is the perception of skin aging whose most visible signs are periocular wrinkles: therefore, keeping a youthful and luminous face renewing a positive mindset gains additional relevance. The need for highly efficient anti-wrinkles effects is well and truly there. Our natural plant extract (MAS-30) was tested in 2 in vivo studies. In the first one, placebo-controlled, double blind, it was tested for its ability to lessen the visibility of stretchmarks. Volunteers were post-partum women with recent pink stretchmarks on the stomach, the buttocks, or thighs. The volunteers applied twice daily during 56 days a 1% MAS-30 emulsion on the stretchmark The anti-stretchmark efficacy was assessed by measuring the length and width of the marks, clinical grading, color measurement, and illustrative pictures. Preliminary results show significant and visible effects when applying MAS-30, notably by increasing lightness and minimizing redness, also confirmed in pictures. In the second study, male and female volunteers with visible wrinkles on Crow’s feet were recruited. They applied twice daily a 2% MAS-30 emulsion on hemi faces. Anti-aging efficacy was assessed by measuring skin topography, collagen density in the dermis, and illustrative pictures. Preliminary results show significant smoothing and anti-wrinkle effects after application of 2% MAS-30. A significant increase of the collagen density was also observed. Finally, photo-documentation confirm the wrinkles reduction. (1) Article - Bulletin épidémiologique hebdomadaire (santepubliquefrance.fr), May 2021

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Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Objective- We investigated (1) neural processing underlying olfactory perception in healthy people with distinct ‘levels’ of well-being (WB) (2) central-nervous processing of odors associated with various degrees of WB. Methods- The experiment included pre-testing and fMRI scans. During pre-testing 100 subjects rated intensity, valence and WB for 14 pleasant odors. This resulted in selection of two odors (flower+ orange) strongly and two odors (grass+ coffee) weakly associated to WB which were then delivered to subjects with different WB state (high and low) in MRI. Results- In presence of odors strongly associated to WB, low WB group had increased bilateral angular gyrus (AG), left inferior frontal gyrus (IFG) activity for ON>OFF. Posterior orbitofrontal cortex (OFC) and bilateral IFG activated for ON (weakly associated odors) > OFF in the low WB. Left lateral OFC activated in the high WB group only in presence of strongly WB odors. For high vs low WB groups, low WB group showed stronger activity in the right AG in presence of strongly WB odors where no voxel survived for weakly odors. Conclusion- This was possibly because low WB group was more sensitive to odors that added an emotional value and meaning to them. Overall, odors may play an important role in lifting mood or altering emotional state especially in people with low WB.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Awareness of the link with nature is increasingly guiding consumer choice, thus changing the way in which formulations and markets are approached. This can be seen in the food sector but also in many other areas such as perfumery, cosmetics, hygiene and cleaning. Many brands have understood this and now favour formulas with materials of natural origin. However, formulating a natural product can be restrictive and have an impact on sensoriality, particularly olfactory sensoriality. Some natural materials may indeed have an intrinsic odour that will impact the final formulation. The integration of natural fragrances seems in some cases to reduce the remanence or blooming of the perfume, which are desired performance criteria. In the case of products with odour reducing functions (sweating, humidity, cooking...), synthetic actives are also increasingly substituted by natural actives with the ambition to offer a reduction of malodour as effective as existing products. But, while consumers are actively seeking naturalness in products, they are not prepared to give up the pleasure of the senses. So what tools should be used to assess the continued olfactory performance of a product? To ensure that the product offers a quality of perception equivalent to other products on the market? Sensory analysis can be an indispensable tool, provided that the right tools are available for training and practice. Combined molecular analysis (GC-Sniffing) can also provide information in understanding odour generation. In this presentation, we will review the relevant techniques for the olfactory evaluation of various natural products. These techniques will be illustrated with case studies.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance When it comes to sustainability, the Fragrance industry has an important role to play not only from an environmental perspective but also from a social and economic point of view. This is what is often said at the time of marketing natural fragrances. But are natural fragrances really meant to do so? In her presentation, Ana Ripoll, Perfumer at Iberchem will expose the perfumer’s approach with the definitions, certifications and international guidelines regarding natural fragrances and shed light on the actual situation.

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Olfactory perception is considered a complex phenomenon and is associated directly with emotion and cognition. We estimate emotion as in Russel’s two-dimensional circumplex model of affect (Russel 1980) of valence and arousal. Valence corresponds to the horizontal axis and ranges from unpleasant to pleasant, whereas arousal corresponds to the vertical axis and ranges from calm to excited. For example, low arousal and low valence values refer to sadness; high arousal and high valence values refer to excitement/joy; low arousal and high valence values refer to relaxation. We aimed at investigating the level of valence and arousal in an invigorating, a relaxing, and a neutral odour and wanted to examine if indeed these odours were provoking the expected emotions from people who experienced them. We used our platform for data analyses with integrated wireless medical grade systems that included electroencephalography (EEG) and electrocardiography (ECG) and outputted a unique emotion measure in the valence and arousal space through multisensory data fusion. Our proprietary methodological approach was applied on these signals to extract valence and arousal markers associated with fragrance response. The average emotional values of the participants in the experiment were high arousal for the invigorating odour, low arousal for the relaxing odour, and medium arousal and valence for the neutral odour (control). What we also noticed from this study is that the invigorating odour elicited low valence (i.e., unpleasantness), whereas the relaxing odour elicited as expected high valence (pleasantness). We have used the same features for a variety of affective applications ranging from exhibitions, museums, communication material and beauty treatments with great success. Eventually we are targeting to enable our output features to characterize the sense of well-being, currently an important claim of products in the cosmetic and fragrance sector. 

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance In this context of awareness as humans and industrials of our impact on the environment and the future. With a growing motivation to act and consume more responsibly, natural and sustainable products appear in cosmetics as the solution. How is the ingredient INCI ‘Fragrance’ being classified in this situation? The fragrance is a highly regulated ingredient, and however, it remains obscure to the end consumer and the cosmetic formulator, the intermediate user of this component. Various labels help the formulator in his choices, such as Natrue, Cosmos, ISO, and Organics. At the same time, using perfumes composed exclusively of natural materials has advantages for the environment, well-being, and marketing. However, formulating with natural compositions has technical limitations due to the variation in natural materials, which need to be considered to continue to provide creams that meet current requirements (innovation, stability, preservation, odor, etc.). As part of the launch of a line of fragrances certified by the Cosmos label for use in cosmetic preparations, CellMark France laboratories have initiated a research program to propose a line of 100% natural fragrances that are stable in cosmetic forms. We want to present the first results and introduce CellMark to this segment as part of this study. We propose to make an overview to define what is a natural perfume in relation to the labels and natural cosmetic norms in force such as Natrue, Cosmos, ISO, and Organic; to present the advantages and limitations of the use of natural perfumes in cosmetic products such as stability, persistence, fidelity, regarding the cosmetic formulation and regulatory stability criteria; and finally to present a selection of 100% natural perfumes that show perfect stability in the formula and to analyse their composition.

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Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care In the EU, there has been uniform legislation for cosmetic products since 1976 with strict requirements for the safety of the products to human health. This legislation has undergone many changes since then and today the standard for cosmetic safety in the EU is higher than anywhere else in the world. A robust definition and comprehensive documentation - especially the safety assessment - are two examples. In recent years, other legislations have also increasingly influenced the cosmetics regulation, e.g. the regulations for nanomaterials or the chemical legislation - keyword CMR substances. The European Chemicals Strategy within the framework of the "Green Deal", which aims to further harmonize the assessment of chemicals in the EU, is currently presenting the cosmetics industry with further far-reaching challenges. This means that the European Cosmetics Regulation published in 2009 is also facing its first "major revision".

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care Safety and compatibility of cosmetic products are central requirements, compliance with which is essential for the marketing of cosmetic products. The substances and product types used in today's products must be professionally evaluated in accordance with the legal requirements. This requires meaningful and reproducible test methods, up-to-date procedures for data evaluation and extensive knowledge of the relevant product effects. Although skin tolerance testing on humans is often not specifically required according to legal requirements it is very relevant, nonetheless. Therefore this work group has set itself the task of evaluating study designs for skin compatibility testing that can be of help for safety assessors and products developers. Various test designs were evaluated as to their practical feasibility and relevance for skin compatibility testing of products. Based on the results and experiences made, test methods and recommendations were discussed and published. In a recently published study, the expert group set out to investigate to whether results obtained from epicutaneous patch testing (ECT) and use tests are comparable regarding skin compatibility of skin care products. Although ECTs are routinely used as a screening method for skin compatibility, they do not allow all reactions to be assessed and surprises can be encountered when using other test methods. During the study, transient immediate type skin reactions were encountered in use tests.  We could show that simple modifications of existing ECT protocol, can lead to important insights into immediate type skin reactions. These modifications can be used to create further building blocks in the development and optimization of test strategies for cosmetic formulations. Current topics are to investigate different variables found in existing ECT protocols and how they influence results of ECTs and the design of suitable tests for age-related skin products.You can find more information about our work group and the members at https://dgk-ev.de/sicherheit-und-vertraeglichkeit/.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care BACKGROUND: Skin cleansing is more than removal of dirt and unwanted residues. By using body wash products, a psycho-physiological dimension of efficacy can also be given due to an aromacological impact on mood, emotions, and well-being [1]. The purpose of the present study was to investigate such psycho-physiological effects of a shower. Therefore, we developed a study design, to reveal such aromacological effects under “realistic” product application by using the previously described OEA (Objective Emotional Assessment) [2].  METHODS: A randomized and controlled study was performed to evaluate the aromacological effect of a shower product in 43 female volunteers (20-55 years, MW 27.7 ± 6.67 SD). A citric-scented cosmetic product was compared to an unscented control product. The product impact was investigated by a standardized questionnaire (9-point Likert scale) and OEA, which was a combination of electrodermal activity (EDA), electrocardiogram (ECG), electroencephalogram (EEG) and electromyogram (EMG) and simultaneously recorded. After baseline measurement (120sec.) the product was applied under standardized washing procedure and the application was accompanied by a 40sec. OEA recording phase. The product evaluation by questionnaire was performed after product application and OEA. RESULTS: The citric-scented product has shown a relatively specific profile in the subjective assessment and can thereby be classified as positively activating. The product was among others assessed as “invigorating”, “refreshing”, “arousing”, “activating” and “mood-enhancing”. Moreover, the activating and stimulating efficacy was demonstrated by OEA measurements: an impact on the spontaneous fluctuations of electrodermal activity (by EDA), on the high-beta rate (by EEG) and on the heart rate variability (by ECG) was shown and interpreted as activating and stimulating product effect. CONCLUSION: Our study revealed activating and stimulating effects by application the citric scented body wash product, and thereby ensuring the possibility to use the present methodology for product testing and cosmetic claim substantiation.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Home Care Analysing body odour, can be of interest for various objectives in the development and improvement of several personal and home care products (like, deodorants, incontinence and female care, detergents). Sensory as well as chemical analyses methods are available. Selecting the right tool is essential to generate the results needed. If the objective is to determine body odour or its reduction, studies using selected and trained sniffers to evaluate the odour as perceived by a sensory panel is the means of choice up to today. There is no machine that can substitute the human nose in regards to human odour perception yet.   The GC-IMS (Ion Mobility Spectrometry Coupled with Gas Chromatography) can be used to generate a quick molecular fingerprint of body odour. This can be helpful if clusters should be generated determine which body odour compositions are similar/different. Additionally, the device can be trained to detect and measure molecules. The big advantage here is that the analysis takes only a couple of minutes in comparison to other more advanced systems like the GC-MS.   In general, chemical information is often useful for odour assessment, but it has its limitations. GC-MS-Sniffing combines the chemical information typically gained from gas chromatography and mass spectrometry with the sensory information (odour characteristics of each compound individually) provided by the human sensory system. To determine key odorant molecules associated with body odour, this technique is the most adequate. Usually, the responsible compounds are perceived in very low concentrations or are complex molecular structures. The human nose is able to detect them and due to describing the smell at the appearing retention time can support the identification of those key compounds. The present communication provides an overview on the available various methods to analyse body odour with an application to the Personal and Home care markets.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care The market for so-called dermocosmetic is growing globally. Such products can accompany the treatment of skin problems by cosmetic means and support the restoration of a healthy-looking appearance. At the same time, consumers increasingly request natural active ingredients from sustainable and regional sources. To effectively identify and study active ingredient candidates, we developed a new epidermis model mimicking atopic-prone skin. Such an epidermis equivalent allows to investigate structural changes and the release of inflammatory mediators, but also the evolution of the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus, whose flares play an important role in atopic-prone skin. With the help of this model, we could demonstrate so far unknown relations between interleukin release and colonization by Staphylococcus aureus. In this test system, a flavonoid-rich extract obtained from chestnut leaves proved to be highly efficient. The leaves are upcycled from organically cultivated trees. The extract’s efficacy was confirmed in numerous additional in vitro tests related to very dry skin with impaired barrier function. Furthermore, positive results could be obtained on adherence, virulence, and biofilm formation of Staphylococcus aureus, and in co-culture of the bacterium with macrophages and keratinocytes. The promising in vitro results were backed up by an in vivo study with 22 volunteers suffering from light to moderate atopic-prone skin. Throughout the application, skin condition improved significantly and trans-epidermal water loss decreased distinctly. The efficacy was also perceived by the volunteers, as confirmed by a volunteer survey. We are continuously developing new skin models, including those to mimicking skin problems, that we intend to use for the screening of potential active ingredient candidates. Recently, we introduced the first 3D bio-printed full-thickness skin model with human macrophages worldwide. It allows the investigation of the immune reaction of sensitive or reactive skin. The related publication was honored with the Henry Maso Award.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care The members of the DGK’s “Hair Treatment” Working Group are drawn from the fields of cosmetic product developers & manufacturers, raw material suppliers, cosmetic testing institutes & academia. A short overview of the group’s activities - including the investigation of the technical and sensory performance of modern hair treatment products, especially in the fields of cleansing, care, color & and styling, and the organisation of training events (in particular for younger colleagues & newcomers to the profession) - will be provided. A more detailed presentation using the example of one of our more recent projects “Salon Testing as an Objective Tool for Product Development & Product Testing” will be used to demonstrate the use of round-robin testing in our working group & a discussion of the results obtained will be shared.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care Introduction: Concerns about the harmful effects of air pollutants on our health are increasing. The term air pollutants includes almost everything, from particulate matter and exhaust fumes to sunlight and heavy metals. Skin is exposed to environmental pollutants daily, which can lead to premature aging, skin barrier impairment, pigment disorders and cell damage. Already existing conditions such as dry or irritated skin and skin impurities can be aggravated. Cosmetic products with "anti-pollution" claims have been on the market for several years. However, there are hardly any standardized and universally accepted active ingredients or test methods to date that cover the many aspects of "anti-pollution". Methods and Results: The working group (WG) "Anti-pollution" of the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK), to advance science and systematics in this field, developed an interactive matrix on air pollution, its effects on the skin, cosmetic applications, as well as anti-pollution active ingredients and test methods. Literature was used to identify effects in and on the skin after exposure, and to evaluate various cosmetic applications and test methods. The results were presented in an interactive matrix, publicly available on the DGK website (Anti-Pollution - DGK e.V. (dgk-ev.de)) in German and English language. Discussion and conclusion: The anti-pollution matrix offers laymen and experts comprehensive information on the topics of air pollutants, their effects, how to measure them and what cosmetic options are available to reduce or avoid their negative effects on the skin. The matrix is a source of information to better understand the factors involved and addresses the challenges regarding efficacy claims. The implementation of the topic as an interactive software solution can encourage others to use such ways in presenting their knowledge content. Such a matrix also offers the possibility of knowledge transfer for other multi-layered topics of cosmetics.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care Again and again, microbiological contamination of cosmetic products leads to product recalls. Why? What are the most common reasons for this? On the basis of practical experience, it will be explained how the trends of recent years in the cosmetic field have led to contamination caused by weak points in hygiene. Using a few very easy-to-implement tools, it is presented how everyone can act both correctively and preventively and how weak points can be easily identified.

Visit the booths in the exhibition halls and connect with companies.

During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. organizes an Application Oriented Poster Exposition. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations

During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V., DGK e.V. and also the GDCh organizes a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations