Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
09:30 - 10:00
Social and Biodiversity Standards in Carnauba Wax Production
Louisa Lösing, Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Sustainability / Social Sustainability Environmental and social challenges have come to light in some of the carnauba wax extraction areas in northeast Brazil, including high rates of deforestation (of the native carnauba palm trees), degradation of local biodiversity, persistent drought, rapid expansion of invasive species, as well as poor working conditions and low pay. These problems are often systemic, with a wide range of factors involved that contribute to the challenges. Carnauba wax is used in many cosmetics and chemical products. The multistakeholder initiative “Sustainable livelihoods, Carnauba production and preservation of biodiversity in northeast Brazil”, or in short “Initiative for Responsible Carnauba” aims to complement existing efforts of the Brazilian Government (Environmental Ministry, Labour Ministry) and local groups to enforce Brazilian and international labour regulations by catalysing engagement among buying companies of high quality carnauba wax grades in Europe and elsewhere. An action plan focusing on good harvesting practices, traceability and transparency of Carnauba wax origins, shared learning and training has been developed, as well as a baseline study on impacts and a study on biodiversity measures for improving sustainability in the supply chain. The Initiative involves suppliers and industry players, as well as social interest groups. This includes wax processors in Brazil, and other important players who affect working conditions. Harvesting conditions of the participating Carnauba wax suppliers are checked to see if they comply with international principles that address human rights, including all International Labour Organisation (ILO) core conventions (minimum age for work, forced labour, etc.) and also adequate working conditions, as well as other principles such as biodiversity conservation and local economic development. The challenges and solutions for the carnauba wax supply chain and the collaboration with standard setters, universities, government and companies are presented to give insight into multistakeholder action for more sustainability and compliance with international regulations.
10:00 - 10:30
Sustainability and Ecolabel Criteria: Re-thinking the Anaerobic Biodegradation Criterion for Linear Alkylbenzene Sulfonate (LAS)
Ph.D. John Heinze, Council for LAB/LAS Environmental Research (CLER)
Spoken Language: English Category: Sustainability / Social Sustainability Limitations on anaerobically nonbiodegradable (anNBO) surfactants and on total anNBO substances in laundry and cleaning products are criteria in the EU and other European ecolabel programs. The justification for these criteria is that these reduce the concentration of anNBO substances in the environment, specifically in the sludge output from anaerobic digesters of wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs). Is that sufficient justification in itself or are there also sustainability or other benefits to the environment? This question is examined using linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS) as a test case. LAS is the largest volume, best studied surfactant that does not meet the strict requirements for anaerobic biodegradation in the EU ecolabel program (>60% complete biodegradation (mineralization) within 60 days in standard anaerobic biodegradation screening tests). The available data demonstrate: 1) Current LAS uses do not pose a risk to the aquatic environment, sediment or soil, compartments potentially impacted by anNBO substances. This is true even for worst case (direct discharge) situations. 2) LAS, which is rapidly and completely biodegraded under aerobic conditions, does not accumulate in the environment since environmental compartments receiving LAS (rivers and streams, sediments and soil) are primarily aerobic. 3) Recent studies demonstrate LAS biodegrades in environmental compartments that are not aerobic, including microaerophilic conditions, anaerobic marine sediments with low organic content, and anaerobic bioreactors, vessels intended to facilitate wastewater treatment. The available data do not support a finding that anaerobic biodegradation criterion contribute to sustainability, or provide other benefits to the environment. On the contrary, the data suggest that justifications for anNBO criteria need to be re-examined.
10:45 - 11:15
EU-harmonized Product Notification, Obligations, and Deadlines; UFI-code, a New Label Feature
Dr. Gertraud Scholz, IPPM GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Sustainability / Chemical Safety and Protection The EU harmonized product notification is mandatory for new or modified consumer products and professional products with physical or harmful health hazard characteristics as of January 1st, 2021. For industrial products, a reduced notification obligation is required as of January 1st, 2024 plus 24h/7d call service. Cosmetic products are not affected For product notification, a PCN (Poison Center Notification) dossier with harmonized information is submitted under a unique recipe identifier - the UFI (Unique Formula Identifier) to the appointed body of the respective EEA state. The UFI is a 16-digit alphanumeric code consisting of numbers and letters, generated from VAT + individual recipe number and is part of the label or, for industrial products, to be mentioned on the SDS. The data file for registration in PCN format and UFI generator are available on the ECHA website. Each company that markets dangerous products in the EEA has an obligation, depending on its role as formulator, toll-formulator, importer, distributor, private label, re-brander and re-labeler. The distributor does not have to notify but must ensure that the product notification was done by the supplier in the relevant target countries. National product notifications are valid until December 31st, 2024.
11:15 - 11:45
Market Surveillance (MS) of Chemicals on the Internet concerning REACH- and CLP-Regulation
Michael Wolf, Regierung von Unterfranken - Gewerbeaufsichtsamt - Dezernat für die Marktüberwachung von Chemikalien nach REACH / CLP in Bayern
Spoken Language: German Category: Sustainability / Market Surveillance - Structure, organisation and allocation of tasks in Germany and Bavaria - Significance of internet trading and challenges for MS - Procedure of MS, results - Problems and measures by selling b2b products to b2c - Case studies
12:00 - 12:30
Presentation of the New Standard DIN E 13063 Hospital Cleaning
Dipl. Christine Sudhop, Bundesinnungsverband des Gebäudereiniger-Handwerks
Spoken Language: German Category: Sustainability In no other place is hygiene as important as in a hospital. Compliance with hygiene measures is therefore essential. Cleaning is a component of hygiene and the multi-barrier system in hospitals. The hygienic flawless implementation serves both cleanliness and infection prevention to protect patients, visitors and staff. With the publication of the draft standard DIN 13063 Hospital cleaning - requirements for cleaning and disinfectant cleaning in hospital buildings and other medical facilities, a new era in health care has been initiated. So far, there exist in Germany. For example, the recommendations of the Commission for Hospital Hygiene and Infection Prevention (KRINKO) on requirements for hygiene in the reprocessing of medical devices as well as cleaning and disinfection of surfaces on which hospitals orient when preparing their facility-specific hygiene plan. So far, however, there has been no uniform cleaning standard for German hospitals. This is exactly where the draft standard DIN 13063 comes in. A uniform standard is intended to support hospitals and medical facilities on the one hand in identifying suitable cleaning service providers, on the other hand, cleaning service providers will have clear requirements in the future with regard to the scope, type and frequency of cleaning. The goal is to continuously improve hygiene in hospitals and medical facilities through standardized cleaning processes in order to stop nosocomial infections.
12:30 - 13:00
FONAP–Competence Centre for Sustainable Palm(kernel)oil Fractions and Derivatives and Initiative for Sustainable Palm Oil
Andreas Knoell, FONAP, Forum for Sustainable Palm Oil
Spoken Language: German Category: Sustainability / Economic Sustainability The Forum for Sustainable Palm Oil e.V. (FONAP) is a consortium of companies, associations, non-governmental organisations and the German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture. FONAP’s aim is for Germany to use 100% certified sustainable palm oil and its members have committed in doing so. FONAP also aims to improve the recognised certification systems and boost the use of certified palm oil in other countries too. FONAP is also a competence centre, fuelled by its members’ knowledge and expertise. These members include companies from the chemicals, cleaning agents and detergents, and cosmetics sectors, which primarily deal with fractions and derivatives from palm oil products. Palm oil – and especially palm kernel oil – is a key resource in these industries. It is difficult to guarantee sustainable supply chains, especially for derivatives and fractions. Through numerous discussions, we have established that there is a considerable need for information on this subject. At SEPAWA, we want to present how sustainable supply chains work for palm (kernel) oil fractions and derivatives and what experiences our members have had with this. The focus here is on FONAP’s latest publication, Handreichung Derivate und Fraktionen, a handout on derivatives and fractions. This document clearly describes the palm oil supply chain and illustrates the fractionation of palm oil derivatives in a case study. The complexities of dealing with palm (kernel) oil derivatives and fractions with regard to the requirements for traceability and separation in certified supply chain models are explained clearly. Together with other factors, such as the substitution of vegetable oils in certain processing stages, these lead to difficulties in tracing and applying materials, and sometimes even make this impossible.
Spoken Language: German Bitter cold, frozen oceans, gigantic glaciers: This prevailing image of the polar regions of our planet still captures the true look of these regions quite well. But possibly not for very much into the future: In the Arctic, sea ice on the Arctic Ocean disappears rapidly, temperatures rise two to three times as fast as the global average, and the glaciers slowly disappear. In this presentation, I combine my own experiences from numerous expeditions into the polar regions with the scientific background of climate change. In doing so, we will explore climate change in the distant past, the rapid changes that we all experience today, and will examine how the future will possibly look like. And in doing so, we will be able to answer the overarching question of whether we can still stop the big melt…
Spoken Language: English
Spoken Language: English
09:00 - 09:30
“Seeing is Believing” – What About Feeling? A Sensory-Driven Formulation Concept
Petra Huber, ZHAW Züricher Hochschule
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods Also in “digital times” sensory benefits are known to materially affect consumers’ choice not only for cosmetics. Formulations of (natural) cosmetics may need to be optimized or modified if they are prone to initial sensorial issues or if the critical requirements of consumers are not adequately addressed (e.g. biopolymers instead of “liquid plastics”) . Or a formulation should be optimized by addition of sensory modifiers, the selection of emollients or rheological additives, and structureproviding raw materials. However, there is a large range of potential additives and hence product developers are keen to receive rapid, preferably real-time, time-saving and reproducible feedback on new formulations. After several years of investigations this presentation will propose a roundup about how a sensorydriven process of formulation development can be made easier “visible” and observable and how the transferability of a predictive model enables the identification of suitable ingredient candidates. The aim of all studies (1-3) was to apply rheological measurements, frictiometric protocols and sensory profiling, to enable comprehensive characterization of raw ingredients and then to identify appropriate alternatives. Although sensory panel testing remains the gold standard, this studies have identified a time and resource-saving approach that can be applied under certain conditions for prescreening potential additives.
09:30 - 10:00
Water Bonding in the Stratum Corneum in Untreated/Treated Skin Using in Vivo Confocal Raman Microscopy
Maxim Darvin, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods Confocal Raman microscopy was used in human skin in vivo for non-invasive determination of water depth profiles in the stratum corneum (SC). Water is nonhomogeneously distributed in the SC, having a minimal concentration in the superficial depths and a maximal concentration at the boundary to the stratum granulosum. The hydrogen bonding state of water molecules is also non-homogeneous having a maximum bonding state at 20–40% SC depth. It was determined that water binding centers are depth-dependent: at the uppermost SC layers natural moisturizing factor molecules are responsible for water binding; at the intermediate SC layers, mostly the keratin and least of NMF molecules bind water molecules; at the bottom SC layers water is bound by keratin. The uppermost and the bottom SC layers cannot swell, while the intermediate SC layer is characterized with a maximal swelling, which is induced by binding of water by the keratin filaments. Topically applied cosmetic substances are covering the SC, which results in SC occlusion. Occlusion has an influence on the distribution of water concentration depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds in the SC. The kinetics of these processes can be successfully investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy. For the correct determination of the water in the pretreated skin, the Raman bands of the applied formulations, which are always partly superimposed with Raman bands of the skin, should be taken into consideration. Such a screening should always precede the calculation of the water depth profiles and specially designed algorithms should be used in order to neglect or minimize possible errors induced by Raman band superposition. All these aspects are summarized in this presentation. The effect of topically applied formulations on the water distribution in the SC measured in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy is here presented.
10:00 - 10:30
In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy Can Detect Signs of Aging and Photoaging in the Human Dermis
Stephan Bielfeldt, ProDerm
Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods During aging the human skin undergoes dramatic changes. Even without the influence of the environment a continuous process of intrinsic aging occurs. Sunlight and environmental pollution are aggravating this process. The typical clinical signs on skin are the formation of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. The formation of skin wrinkles is mainly based on changes in the dermis. The mechanisms are now quite well understood. When not regarding water, collagen, with an abundance of more than 80% is the most frequent molecule in the dermis. There is clear evidence that collagen is degrading over time. This intrinsic aging process is accelerated by extrinsic aging due to sunlight and pollution. In intrinsic as well as extrinsic aging an up regulation of metalloproteinases leads to a cleavage of collagen fibers. This depletion of collagen in the dermis can be assessed indirectly by measurement of the water content. It is known that collagen is replaced by water and the dermal water content is continuously increasing with age. We have utilized in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to measure the water content in the dermis. We could confirm the clear positive correlation of dermal water content with intrinsic aging. However, no publications were available concerning the effect of photoaging on the dermal water content. We therefore measured the dermal water content in a group of volunteers with different signs of photoaging. Photoaging was scored by use of an established photo score with dorsal forearms photographs. We refined the score by ranking the photoaging of the subjects on high resolution color dorsal forearm images by experts. The Raman measurements revealed that photoaging accelerates the increase of dermal water content in dorsal forearm skin. As a control we used the light protected volar forearm skin. We can conclude that in vivo measurement of dermal water content with confocal Raman spectroscopy is a suitable and easy method to quantify aspects of aging and photoaging in human subjects. Our results are promising and we assume that the method can be of great value to quantitatively assess antiaging effects of systemic or local treatments that are deemed to improve the dermal collagen content.
10:45 - 11:15
Application of an Easy-to-perform High-energy (HEV) and Low-end visible (LEV) Light Transmittance Method
Nicole Braun, DermaTronnier
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods About 50% of the sun´s radiation arriving on earth is visible light. For a long time, the effects on human health have not been fully investigated. But recently, the influence of visible light (VIS) has gained more attention, especially regarding skin physiology. Studies showed various effects, many of them harmful, comparable to UV-radiation. As a result, there are now a few sunscreens commercially available which claim protection against visible light. The question of whether protection is necessary is still much discussed. The objective of this study was to develop an easy-to-perform high-energy visible (HEV) and low-end visible (LEV) light transmittance method to determine the direct VIS-protection of sunscreens and other cosmetic samples. Furthermore, the influence of the brightness of the tested products on the HEV, LEV and infrared (IR)-A protection was investigated. An experimental set-up consisting of a light source, a VIS-transmissible filter system and a sensor unit was built up to measure the direct VIS-protection of sunscreens and other daily skin care products in two ranges of the visible light area. For a closer look, the brightness of the samples was evaluated by photometric assessment. The experimental set-up could be validated. It could be demonstrated for the first time that there is a strong positive linear correlation between transmittance and brightness of tinted sunscreen and daily skin care products with sunscreen properties in the HEV, LEV and IRA range. However, tinted samples worked best in the blue light region and the higher the wavelength range, the lower the protection.
11:15 - 11:45
Skin Care Research and Claim Substantiation: From Rational Design to Performance Imaging and Facial Color Mapping
Remo Campiche, DSM
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods Based on molecular modelling and state-of-the-art cell and tissue culture technologies, we use a rational design cycle to develop novel molecules for the skin care and anti-aging market. Rational design relies on an iterative process of creating molecules with a certain functionality encompassing the design, synthesis and testing of small focused libraries of molecules. Said approach generally improves efficiency by reducing the number of compounds that need to be synthesized and tested. During the design stage we try to identify potential key structural features responsible for a molecule’s activity and use this information to design new molecules with the same or even superior performance. This performance is tested during the rational design cycle in biological activity assays in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo. The most suitable molecule for skin care applications is then developed into a cosmetic product. In order to visualize skin parameters and efficacy of skin care treatments we employ innovative imaging technologies and recently introduced our award-winning facial colour mapping. With this technology one can readily see differences in e.g. skin hydration and detect areas of dry and well hydrated skin both in 2D and 3D. We extended this approach and added significance and relevance mapping recently.
Spoken Language: German Category: Cosmetic Science / New Detection Methods Cellular senescence is one of the hallmarks of aging and describes a state of cells that cease to divide. Senescence may occur as a consequence of DNA damage, for example induced by UV irradiation, or by reaching a maximum number of cell divisions for that particular cell type. These senescent cells are not fully alive, but they are far from dying: they secrete a plethora of factors, including pro-inflammatory molecules and are thus regarded as “zombie cells”. In the skin, senescent fibroblasts accumulate with age and cause chronic inflammation reactions which further contribute to the aging process. A novel concept called senolytics helps to clear tissues of senescent cells in order to reduce inflammation and rejuvenate the tissue. Notably, healthy cells are not affected by senolytic agents as they specifically target senescent cells. To apply the concept of senolytics for the first time in cosmetics, an in vitro study was performed using fibroblasts in which senescence was induced by oxidative stress. An extract of alpine rose leaves was able to significantly reduce the number of senescent cells in culture while not affecting the number of non-senescent cells. In a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled clinical study, the active ingredient significantly reduced redness and improved skin elasticity.
Spoken Language: TBA
09:00 - 09:45
Consequences of Olfactory Loss
M.D. Thomas Hummel, Smell and Taste Clinic, Department of Otorhinolaryngology, TU Dresden
Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Olfactory disorders are common and affect about one fifth of the general population. Apart from aging, the main causes of olfactory loss are post-viral upper respiratory infection, nasal/sinus disease and head trauma, and are therefore very frequent among patients in ear, nose and throat clinics. Loss of the sense of smell leads to disturbances in important olfactory areas, mainly in food enjoyment, detecting harmful food and smoke, and to some extent in social situations and working life. Most patients seem to deal well with these restrictions. However, a smaller proportion has considerable problems and expresses a noticeable reduction in general quality of life and enhanced depression. Diagnostic and therapeutic options will be discussed.
09:45 - 10:30
In Vivo Evaluation of Efficacy and Skin Compatibility of Hedione and Ambroxan Including Olfactory Assessment
Celina Louise Sharp, STAYsharp
Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance The smell of a cosmetic product may influence the consumer decision making process and is often the first parameter which is evaluated. Until now, there is only little knowledge on the way individual fragrance substances may influence the skin when applied in a topical product. The aim of this study was to examine the effect of three fragrance substances on the overall efficacy of a topical product. The fragrances Hedione HC, Ambroxan and phenylethyl alcohol were investigated by an olfactory and an in vivo assessment. The olfactory assessment evaluated the fragrances’ character, intensity, hedonic tone and familiarity by means of an odour panel test (n=25). The in vivo assessment was conducted on 21 women who completed a two-week treatment with three emulsions each containing one of the fragrances and a placebo. The skin’s transepidermal water loss, hydration, pH value and elasticity were measured on the volar forearm after 1, 7 and 14 days using biophysical methods. After two-week application, all four test emulsions demonstrated a transepidermal water loss reduction, which was statistically significant for the test emulsion containing Ambroxan and the placebo. Skin hydration level increased 24 hours after application of the test emulsions containing Hedione HC and Ambroxan. All four test emulsions indicated a beneficial reduction in the skin’s pH value. The skin’s firmness R0 was reduced by test emulsions containing Ambroxan and phenylethyl alcohol as well as the placebo. The net elasticity R5 increased after topical application of Ambroxan. The test subjects ranked the test emulsions containing the fragrance substances as more pleasant than the placebo. The beneficial effect of the base cream was not counteracted by the presence of fragrance substances, in fact the fragrances showed additional positive effects to the base cream. Therefore, future research should investigate fragrance substances’ potential as skin actives.
10:45 - 11:30
What Smells Good Sells Better: Odour Testing in Personal and Home Care Products
Rita Ribau-Domingues, Olfasense GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance Smell is the most primitive evolutionary sense and is closely linked to the areas of the brain that control and regulate memory and emotions. In this regard, odours directly affect our behaviour and mood, being a decisive factor in the acceptance or rejection of a commercial product. Scents are of extreme importance in companies’ branding strategy for creating strong emotional bonds with customers. The characterization of sensorial properties is therefore crucial in product development and testing. Odours are constituted by (semi-)volatile compounds that, when released by products, cause an olfactory sensation. Our sense of smell is capable of converting the chemical signals of these molecules into perception. The human nose is very sensitive, being able to detect extremely low concentrations of these compounds, even below the detection limits of current analytical techniques. Furthermore, the latter are not able to interpret how the smell of products is perceived by consumers. In that sense, a wide range of sensory analysis methods are used nowadays to evaluate the performance and perception of consumer products. It should be noted that for product optimization and for guaranteeing its commercial success, sensory tests can be complemented with high performance instrumental analysis, such as gas chromatography and mass spectrometry with an odour port (GC-Sniffing-MS). The present communication provides an overview on the implementation of multifactorial chemical/sensory approaches for the odour characterization of personal and home care products. State-of-the-art methodologies on the evaluation and performance of specific products based on olfactory descriptive techniques, quantitative studies, hedonic testing, discriminative assessment, and on the identification of volatile organic compounds via GC-Sniffing-MS are discussed. Practical examples on the strength of the integration of sensory assessment and chemical analysis will be also highlighted.
Spoken Language: TBA Category: Fragrance
Lecture Language: TBA Category: Home Care
2020 begeben wir uns auf eine Duftreise durch die Zeit. Jedes Jahrzehnt hat seine eigene unverwechselbare Musik, Farben, Stile und vor allem Düfte. Erlebnisse, die die Geschichte geprägt haben und Gerüche, die wir damit verbinden. Schauen Sie vorbei!
10:45 - 11:00
Overcoming the Challenges of Hair Fiber Lipid Deposition through an Innovative Mechanism of Action
Valeria Camara, Chemyunion ltda
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care The hair damage is potentialized when it is treated chemically, physically and environmental exposed to pollution, UV radiation among others. Under these conditions, the protective lipid layer of the cuticle is removed, turning healthy, shiny hair into brittle, dry and dull. Considering this scenario, hair products should restore the lost lipid layer, aligning cuticles and improving the sensorial. The most popular product used for this condition are silicones, as they create a film, promote a silky touch, cover damage and eliminate the most unwanted effects by the consumer. The disadvantage is the accumulation of multiple layers in the hair with the build-up effect leaving the hair heavy and greasy appearance, without restoring the lipid layer. The consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of synthetic products on their health and environment, preferring eco-friendly and natural based solutions. The main challenge to formulators is to address this demand offering at the same performance of synthetic, animal and also vegetal derivative products. A new product has been developed, aligned with green trends, offering high performance and proven efficacy. Sensoveil Soft is a plant-based and has been created using proprietary technology, which acts as a lipid replacement, that uses intermolecular attraction to form biofilm on the hair fiber. This mechanism of action builds a bridge between the amino acids on the hair surface and natural oils of sunflower, crambe and avocado. These vegetable oils homogenously lay over the hair forming a biofilm, recovering shine, softness and aligned cuticles. Sensoveil Soft provides noticeable conditioning in the first application, improves combability, no build-up effect, promotes reparation of hair cuticles and frizz reduction. It is easy to apply and can be used in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-on, pomades, powders, bars and water-less products. Because of its versatile properties this product suits any type of hair.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Flaky scalp is surely among the most stubborn and frustrating skin conditions. Yet, whatever the causes - seasonal changes, stress, pollution, anxiety, addiction to squeaky cleansing routines… - it always comes down to dysbiosis in the fragile ecosystem of the scalp. Conventional antidandruff products in the cosmetic market can be characterised by the use of three common ingredients: zinc pyrithione, climbazole and piroctoneolamine. All three actives are based on a primary anti-fungal effect against dandruff causing yeast Malassezia and have been used in the personal care market for decades. Besides a few multifunctionals, no major anti-dandruff active has been launched recently. From the inventor and leading supplier of one of these three benchmark anti-dandruff actives (climbazole) the presentation will demonstrate the development of a novel, natural derived, anti-dandruff technology with an innovative mode of action. Comprehensive test results on anti-dandruff efficacy comparable to conventional actives will be demonstrated. The new green molecule´s activity relies on Malassezia´s natural dependence on sebum lipids. It “tricks the yeast” thanks to its similar chemical structure: Malassezia’s enzymes cleave the molecule to release the actual active that will down regulate Malassezia activity. This leads to a reduction of dandruff, scalp redness and itching. The new Crinipan PMC green complies with the requirements of ISO 16128 for a natural origin index of 1 and is COSMOS approved.
11:15 - 11:30
A Modern, Eco-Friendly Conditioning Agent for Hair Conditioning
Lucie Maisonneuve, STEPAN EUROPE
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Create a better story for your hair and skin formulations with Stepan's new eco-friendly and naturally-derived conditioning agents. Deliver the same best-in-class performance as traditional hair conditioning agents but with no use level restrictions and a superior safety and environmental profile. Easy to use and available as globally-compliant. Come discover how this new ingredient can help create a better story for your products!
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Foam or the foaming of liquids plays a decisive role in almost all applications of cleaning and care products containing surfactants. Particularly in the case of personal care products, user perception is defined to a large extent by the foam. The relationships between the raw materials used, formulations, foam creation and the resulting foam are complex and represent a major challenge in the research and development of surfactant-containing products. Modern measurement technology therefore has the task of reflecting these relationships as efficiently as possible. On the one hand, this means that the measuring systems used can record the relevant properties of the foam with the necessary accuracy. On the other hand, application-oriented foam production with a high degree of reproducibility and a high degree of flexibility in varying the test conditions is essential. Subject of the presented investigations are two shampoo formulations on which with the help of the SITA FoamTester the influence of the test conditions on the resulting foam is discussed. In order to find the optimal test parameters to differentiate the different samples, varying the temperature, concentration or foaming strategy is used to generate specific foams and compare them to each other. In particular, the new possibilities of making foaming and especially the behaviour during foam decay intuitively comprehensible and quantifiable will be discussed in more detail. Processes such as drainage as well as Ostwald ripening are observed with high temporal resolution over the entire foam height and allow a deeper insight into foaming.
12:00 - 12:15
In-Vitro Method for Investigation and Proof of Performance of Potential Active Ingredients in Hair Growth
Joachim Storsberg, Fraunhofer-Institut für Angewandte Polymerforschung (IAP)
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Hair loss can have many causes which include genetic disposition and lack of nutrients. Consequences for those affected are huge and extend to social withdrawal. Research is therefore absolutely necessary and holds great potential, especially in the cosmetics sector, for the profitable marketing of new, effective formulations for developed products. We have developed a formula that is supposed to stimulate hair growth by combining new ingredients. The growth stimulating effect and the compatibility with regiospecific cells (toxicity) were checked on primary human dermal follicular papilla cells (HFDPC) using a non-invasive long-term procedure. Cell impedance-based analysis enables an analysis of the toxicity and thus the compatibility with region-specific hair cells in "real time" without the use of cytotoxic dyes. Parallel, a “regular” in vitro cell culture was carried out on a 24-well scale. The measurement of the cell impedance showed no toxic effect of the added individual components on the HFDPC. This is in line with the data of cell membrane integrity measurement. There was no damage to the cell membrane over the entire duration of the experiment. Eamination of cell function showed a significantly increased expression of alkaline phosphatase as a marker of hair growth over the entire test period. The morphology and vitality of the extremely sensitive primary cells could be significantly improved compared to the control cells using the combined active ingredients in long-term cultivation. Within the scope of this long-term study, it could be clearly shown that the formulation developed is not cytotoxic and does not induce damage to the hair follicle cells which are intended for use. Furthermore, the effectiveness was clearly demonstrated in vitro. The formula has great potential for a positive influence on hair growth, which will soon be extensively tested in a subject study.
12:15 - 12:30
DOWSIL™ Silicone Gum Blends: A New Generation of Gum Blends for Hair Care
Jean-Luc Garaud, Dow Silicones Belgium sprl
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Women around the world have different hair types but similar wishes when it comes to the look of their hair. They want stronger and healthier hair, shinier hair, no frizz and protection from the effects of humidity. As one of the fast-growing hair care categories, hair oils answer these needs by creating a protective layer over the hair cuticle and providing shine, luxurious smooth feel and more. The dimethiconol gum is now available in four additional versatile carriers: a combination of C11-13 isoparaffin and isohexadecane (DOWSIL™ PMX-1504 Fluid), isododecane (DOWSIL™ PMX-1505 Fluid), a volatile linear dimethicone (DOWSIL™ PMX-1507 Fluid) and a bioderived C13-15 alkane (DOWSIL™ PMX-1508 Fluid). These offer increased flexibility in terms of benefits and formulation, such as added shine, smooth feel, ease of combing, natural look or ability to use inherently/readily biodegradable carrier fluids. All new gum blends provided the same combing performance (DIA-STRON) as is typically associated with the dimethiconol gum. Each of them also demonstrated heat protection benefits. The differences in carrier volatility and viscosity impacted other performance aspects including shine (SAMBA, Bossa Nova Vision), coefficient of friction (DIA-STRON), volume control (BOLERO, Bossa Nova Vision), visual/sensory perception Lower volatility carriers generally led to a higher level of shine (DOWSIL™ PMX-1508 Fluid). The volatile linear dimethicone blend (DOWSIL™ PMX-1507 Fluid) led to similar sensory experience on hair versus a cyclopentasiloxane-based blend (XIAMETER™ PMX-1501 Fluid). The best natural look was obtained with the combination of C11-13 isoparaffin and isohexadecane blend (DOWSIL PMX-1504 Fluid). With these four new additions, an extended toolbox built around the dimethiconol gum is now available to formulators. By selecting the right blend or combination of blends, final consumer formulation properties can be fine-tuned to a new extent without impacting the traditional combing benefits associated with the gum.
12:30 - 12:45
Scientific Analysis of the Foaming Behaviour of Aerosol Based and Emulsion Pump Foams
Thomas Willers, KRÜSS GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Numerous cosmetic products are offered in packaging with integrated foam applicators. These are usually aerosol-based foams that are produced directly from a container under gas pressure. Products in which the foam is generated manually by a pumping process are in vogue, as they meet higher requirements for sustainability and product safety. The development of emulsions which are foamable by manual pumping processes is technically challenging. Alternative, low viscosity formulations are necessary to produce foams by such pumping processes at all, and it must also be ensured that the so generated foams have a familiar appearance for the consumer and, above all, that they are comparable in each individual application. Currently, however, there is often a lack of suitable technical analysis facilities for these foams, as commercial foam analysis devices use a device-specific foam generation which does not correspond to the actual foam generation in the consumer's end product. Here we present an application test with the corresponding measuring method to reliably determine the foam structure (i.e. bubble size distribution) and its aging. In this test the foams are produced in the same way as in the actual application of the end product by the consumer. By testing with several test persons we can quantify the reproducibility of the different foam generation processes for different formulations in numbers. In addition, statements can be made about the moisture content and drying of the foams. As typical model systems, we have developed pump foamable cosmetic emulsions with different surfactants and subjected them to the application test. Here, a widely used surfactant, APG, and a polyglycerol ester were used as different tensides. We present, evaluate and discuss the results obtained.
12:45 - 13:00
Direct and Accelerated Stability Testing Extended by Temperature Ramp
Arnold Uhl, LUM GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives Home and personal care products and cosmetics are often formulated as suspensions, emulsions or suspoemulsions. They feature a complex composition with many different ingredients to ensure the required manifold product properties. While the consumers demand a high product stability against e.g. phase separation, the marketing requires a quick product release in much shorter time than allowing for a complete final product testing under real storage conditions. Instrumental methods for accelerated stability testing are suggested by ISO/TR 13097:2013 (Guidelines for the characterization of dispersion stability) and ISO/TR 18811:2018 (Cosmetics -Guidelines on the stability testing of cosmetic products) to solve the challenge. This talk focusses on the comprehensive in-situ physical characterization. Applying the unique patented STEP-Technology® and the direct physical acceleration of the separation, comparative shelf-life analysis of original dispersions according to ISO/TR 13097 is permitted within a short time. Similar to temperature cycling at real-time storage, now the additional temperature ramp during accelerated separation has recently been introduced. The successful combination of both, a temperature ramp and a feasible physical acceleration will be discussed during the conference. Examples include make up cosmetics and dishwashing agents. Keywords: Emulsions, dispersions, direct accelerated separation stability, in-situ visualization, temperature ramp, ISO/TR13097, ISO/TR18811
15:00 - 16:00
Effective Lobbying Today – the Association TEGEWA and the European Chemicals Policy
Dr. Alex Föller, Verband TEGEWA e.V.
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Surfactants The association TEGEWA e. V. coordinates and moderates the interests of some 100 member companies in the field of performance and process chemicals. Among their members approximately 40 companies produce surfactants and/or cosmetic ingredients for the cosmetic and the detergent industry. Since the 90ies the German Sector association TEGEWA is involved in European Law making processes, which have gained importance over the last 25 years. Today we can postulate that the major number of regulations which need be implemented by the German chemical manufacturers have been prepared and decided in Brussels resp. Straßburgh, whereas the first stimuli often have been triggered by single EU member states. How will a German-based association representing predominantly German companies be able to raise its voice in a European concert? In order to do so, several options are available, depending on the nature of course – it is thus key to choose the proper option. Nevertheless, which way ever to be choosen, they all have one basic principle in common: there is a need for allies to evolute impact, be it mutual advocacy in the format of strategic alliances or be it in a matching and work-sharing coordination with other organisations. On the basis of three upcoming regulations of relevance for the TEGEWA member companies it will be demonstrated how European legislation in preparation can be monitored effectively by a German (or other National) sector association: 1,4-dioxane: The expected regulation will affect to a large extent the cosmetic and the detergent industry and their surfactant suppliers Polymers and REACH: Most likely REACH will be amended in order to consider a certain range of polymers for registration, which will affect huge parts oft he chemical industry „Green Deal“: This topic will be a great challenge for the whole European Economy
During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. and the GDCh Division of Detergent Chemistry organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster in a short presentation. At the end of the poster session with the authors, the best pieces of work will be awarded. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
In 2020, we will embark on a fragrant journey through time. Each decade has its own distinctive music, colors, styles and, above all, scents. Experiences that have shaped history and smells that we associate with them. Make sure you visit us!
The Forum for Innovation offers all exhibitors the possibility to present their latest developments in the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and fragrance industry as poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations