Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Cationic conditioners deposit positively charged conditioning agents onto the negatively charged hair shaft providing increased softness and manageability. Commonly these are synthetic compounds, but the cosmetic market is in need of natural solutions. During this Innovation seminar, we would like to introduce a natural solution for modern haircare products with QT-Green. Benefits for the formulator? An easy-to-use ingredient with following characteristics: water-soluble, cold processable, odorless and suitable for transparent formulations. The measurable performances of QT-Green, depending on the usage, will vary from anti-static to real conditioning agent, increasing the moisture of hair and scalp. At the same time, has been demonstrated that QT-Green increases the viscosity of a formulation in a similar way as Behentrimonium and Cetrimonium chloride. While adding QT-Green the foam quality and stability will be considerably improved (ross-miles test).  An allrounder that shows measurable benefits on wet as well as dry hair. We would like to present the combability tests, shine evidence, softness panel results during the seminar. All these features are available in one ingredient derived from nature, palm-free, readily biodegradable (OECD), China-compliant with an ISO 16128 of 1. Connect Chemicals would like to conclude this presentation by showing some of the many formulation guidelines we have developed using this multi-functional & modern ingredient.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Trends in Personal Care come and go, but there is one trend that will never go away: mild cleansing ingredients. From this starting point, it is also required to have a nice environmental profile and meet consumer requirements, such as like Sulfate-Free, PEG-Free, highly natural and COSMOS certified. Beyond the aforementioned features, if we can include a high-performance surfactant, then we will ensure a successful formulation development. In this presentation, we will introduce our latest launch, AKYPO SUGAR LM 42 (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Lauryl Glucoside), an ingredient designed to offer an excellent balance between sustainable and performance properties. AKYPO SUGAR LM 42 has 96% renewable carbon content, full biodegradability profile and meets both COSMOS and EU Ecolabel certifications. It also provides outstanding mildness and good lathering, making it ideal for formulating shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers and baby care products. Additionally, it has a low dependency on pH, allowing high transparency, foaming and easy thickening properties, even at acidic pH levels. In conclusion, the combination of these properties makes AKYPO SUGAR LM 42 an excellent choice for developing sustainable Sulfate-Free formulations, even when used as a primary or secondary surfactant.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Premature catagen development is the primary event leading to excessive hair shedding. Given the negative impact on quality-of-life, new anti-hair loss cosmeceutical technologies are highly demanded. Although ginger extracts are used in hair care products, its main component, 6-Gingerol is described to inhibit hair shaft production in hair follicle (HF) organ culture and hair growth in mouse. Thus, to clarify whether a ginger extract possesses anagen prolonging effects, this was administered into the culture medium of 1) dermal papilla fibroblasts (DP) spheroids arranged within matrix (Cultispheres), 2) 3D reconstructed HFs in which Cultispheres are embedded together with ORS keratinocytes within a horizontal matrix, 3) DP/ORS spheroids prepared using the hanging-drop method, and 4) human micro dissected HFs, and performed RNAseq. Comparative transcriptome analysis of experimental groups receiving the ginger extracts versus vehicle deriving from the different in vitro models used and organ cultured HFs revealed common differentially expressed genes. Transcriptomic responses to the ginger extract in treated micro dissected HFs and hanging-drop DP spheroids was particularly similar and revealed modulation of Wnt and BMP pathways, suggesting the potential of this plant extract to promote anagen.  Although hair shaft production impediment was observed, macroscopic hair cycle analysis indeed revealed inhibition of premature catagen induction in HFs treated ex vivo with the ginger extract in comparison to vehicle. Thus, our data encourage the use of different models to unravel the complex response to novel compounds and propose the tested ginger extract as cosmeceutical option to promote anagen and maintain hair health.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Consumers prioritize sustainable and safe hair care products without compromising performance. Traditional hair care products rely on quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) to achieve high-performance results. However, these industry-standard conditioning ingredients cannot be derived from all natural ingredients and are known to cause skin and eye irritation and aquatic toxicity. Plant-based cationic amino lipids present a compelling solution as they are readily biodegradable, non-toxic to aquatic life, and pose no risk of irritation to the skin and eyes. They exhibit exceptional performance on all hair types, delivering desirable conditioning, anti-static, curl definition, and hair strengthening benefits. Most recently, a unique combination of Brassicyl Valinate Esylate with Cetearyl Alcohol was shown to have equivalent hair conditioning performance to Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) on European, Chinese, and Curly Multi-Ethnic hair types. Amino lipids also meet growing consumer-desired claims including 100% natural, amino acid derived, weightless conditioning, and luxury textures. The Inolex cationic amino lipid technology platform offers a comprehensive and innovative approach to sustainable and high-performance hair care. These novel hair care systems reduce environmental impact and enhance safety allowing the development of hair care products that meet the evolving demands of conscious consumers.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care With the rise of the Skinification trend in hair care, it is now well-recognized that a healthy scalp determines the health and beauty of hair. Free radicals, ROS, and oxidative stress trigger the deterioration of scalp health which generates inflammation and increases scalp sebum production leading to irritation, the appearance of dandruff, oily scalp but also oily hair and reduced hair shine. For many years, the inflammatory response was believed to be a 2-phase active process. Recent studies proved that to promote the return to homeostasis, the third phase of the inflammatory response, Resolution, must be activated. Resolution triggers the production of newly discovered molecules called Specialized Pro-Resolving mediators (SPMs) which reduce the inflammation cycle and oxidative stress while optimizing the return to homeostasis. SPMs had been studied only in skin and showed great efficacy to end chronic inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration. Because inflammation and oxidative stress are key elements characterizing unhealthy scalp leading to dandruff appearance, sebum excess on scalp and hair or hair dull, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics investigated the presence and the role of SPMs on scalp for the first time in cosmetics. ReviScalp™ is a natural and sustainable extract from the endemic Australian Aniseed Myrtle, standardized in ellagic acid content, a polyphenol known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative properties. While most of anti-inflammatory solutions for scalp care focus on decreasing pro-inflammatory mediators, ReviScalp™ was designed to resolve inflammation by boosting the production of the newly discovered and highly innovative SPMs to accelerate the return to scalp homeostasis to improve scalp health. Clinically proven on men and women, ReviScalp™ rebalances sebum production and scalp pH, decreases dandruff appearance, restores scalp health, and increases hair brightness.      ReviScalp™ is China-compliant, preservative-free, COSMOS-approved, 100% natural origin (ISO 16128), and vegan-certified by the Vegan Society.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Polycare® Heat Therapy is a non-ecotoxic double-derivatized cationic guar suitable for transparent formulation which protects hair from extreme temperatures. By forming an invisible and imperceptible barrier on hair surface, this bio-based active helps to maintain hair physical and sensory qualities. During this presentation, we will present Polycare® Heat Therapy ingredient, which brings softness to the hair with a nude feel in addition of heat protection. It provides discipline to hair, fastens the straightening and provides good conditioning for easier detangling. It doesn't leave hair sticky or oily. It keeps hair soft and healthy over repeated use of a flat or curl iron and hairdryer. Combined with vegetable oils and ester oils, it can even address over-processed hair. Less exposed and more protected and healthier hair for a stress-free style !

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Nowadays, to prepare formulations which are free from microplastics, is a daily challenge for cosmetic formulators who are still seeking for alternatives to carbomers. Gellants and thickeners on gum base are often not suitable for ionic formulations and especially in Hair Care hydrocolloids are needed which are compatible with cationic ingredients such as quaternary conditioners. With Vita Catiogel® Quimivita developed a natural thickener compatible with cationic agents that increases the natural feel of your hair care products. This gellant of 100% natural origin is obtained from the seeds of the carob tree known as Ceratonia siliqua which is widely cultivated in the Mediterranean area. Carob bean gum is a high molecular-weight polysaccharide, constructed from a main chain of mannose units with short branches of single galactose units. Vita Catiogel, is a composition of locust bean gum plus Bio Succinic Acid and Bio Arginine, as actives, which moisturize the hair and strengthen the hair follicles, nourish and vitalize scalp and skin. The product can be used in a pH range of 4 to 8, providing high viscosity, and ideal for transparent cosmetics. As a multifunctional product which is extremely versatile, Vita CatioGel can be used as stabilizer, thickening agent or viscosity modifier. Its outstanding suspensory capacity permits To keep small particles in suspension. It can be used for rinse-off and leave-on conditioners, and as a fixative for (transparent) styling products. Combined with other hydrocolloids, Vita CatioGel stabilizes emulsions and can improve gel strength.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Microbiome Solar radiation negatively impacts on skin microbiota. Did you know that a photodamaged microbiota negatively contributes to the skin photoageing process? Vytrus Biotech has unveiled a new microbiota pathway to fight the skin photoageing process: the new active ingredient PHOTOBIOME™, a novel category of Microbial Antioxidant. This is a 100% natural active inspired by nature that helps the microbiota photoprotect itself and release its own natural photo-defense molecules to counterattack skin photodamage. PHOTOBIOME™ is a prebiotic ingredient that modulates bacteria metabolism and stimulates them to produce photo-defense molecules that are beneficial for the skin cells. The active counteracts and protects the microbiota and the skin cells from the photo-oxidative stress of the harmful sun radiation. PHOTOBIOME™ is derived from plant stem cells (a blended of Pomegranate and Cotton). The active improves the signs of the photoageing process on the skin by photoprotecting the microbiota for the first time in cosmetics. It involves a new paradigm in the suncare and well-ageing markets and a step forward in the microbiota field through new scientific concepts: The new Sun-Microbiota-Skin axis The discovery of the Photobiome Factor A new category of Microbial antioxidant to photoprotect and photorepair: fighting microbial-induced photoageing process. This new category of biotechnology-based active ingredients offers cosmetic formulations new pathways to protect and repair skin photodamage with a sustainable solution based on plant biotechnology.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Microbiome Acne is a skin condition that is thought to be caused by an infection of Cutibacterium acnes. This infection is fueled by an excess of sebum. Sebum is the preferred food for C. acnes. The classic strategy to improve acne skin is to reduce the sebum and kill as much as possible C. acnes. Usually, salicylic acid is presented as the saviour. On the other hand, C. acnes is also known to be a valuable protector of the skin. This creates a paradox as C. acnes seems to be pathogenic and protective at the same time. Through a metagenomics study of the skin microbiome during acne new insights have been discovered. This metagenomics study not only reveals the evolution of the skin microbiome but also uncovers the activity of all the microbes and explains how all the different species are communicating with each other. The C.acnes paradox is explained. Thanks to this study also the role of salicylic acid is demonstrated, and the unique performance of a dedicated Inulin-prebiotic. This Inulin-prebiotic is not only performing in leave-on formulations but also performs in rinse-off facial washes. The results of this study are for sure a game changer and will inspire you to improve acne formulations.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Microbiome The microbiome is a topic that is here to stay. The cosmetics and personal care industry knows that healthy skin relies on a healthy microbiome. Since the knowledge around the microbiome is still very scarce, claiming around this topic must be made with caution and meaningful data. We are summarizing the actual status of research and how the industry can work alongside the microbiome. The skin microbiome is influenced by manifold factors. Besides our genetics, the lifestyle, diet and environment is influencing our microbiome. Products we use daily should respect our bodies microbes and be as mild as possible. This is true for cosmetics and personal care products as well as for hygiene products and detergents. We offer a solution on sustainable microbiome-claiming in this area.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Rinse-off Personal Care Products EOC Surfactants has developed a biodegradable and high performance opacifier that can be used in a wide variety of personal care rinse-off formulations such as shampoos, bath & shower products, liquid soaps, etc.. Exopacif MPF is not only an environmentally friendly alternative for the synthetic styrene/acrylates based opacifier but it also ensures stable creamy white formulations to meet consumer expectations. Furthermore, Exopacif MPF is based on ingredients of natural origin. The product answers today’s formulator needs as it is cold processable and can be added directly to the formulation. There is no pre-dilution required, which makes the product easy to formulate. In every project undertaken by EOC Group, our wish is to do it in a sustainable manner. We are committed to the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals. Our R&D experts strive to search for sustainable raw materials and processes to offer alternatives to our customers. Exopacif MPF is developed with nature in mind.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Cleansing As the demand for sustainable and environmentally friendly products continues to increase, the development of new solutions becomes increasingly important. In this context, our research seeks to combine the fields of science and nature to develop a biobased suspending agent that meets market needs while satisfying Clean Beauty requirements. Introducing WorléeSuspens Eco, our high-quality suspending agent tailored for transparent applications in surfactant-based formulations. By carefully selecting raw materials with specific properties, we have formulated a product that not only offers exceptional performance but also meets the principles of sustainability. WorléeSuspens Eco stands as a biodegradable alternative, free from palm oil, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), and microplastics-containing ingredients. The natural origin content according to ISO 16128 is close to 100%. At the core of WorléeSuspens Eco lies bacterial cellulose, providing stability and suspension capabilities without compromising the environment. Unlike traditional plant cellulose, bacterial cellulose eliminates the need for complex purification steps due to its absence of hemicelluloses and lignin, resulting in a higher degree of purity. Moreover, the chemical structure of bacterial cellulose is identical to that of plant cellulose. Our innovative suspending agent demonstrates remarkable performance, enabling the formulation of crystal-clear products without turbidity. In addition, WorléeSuspens Eco offers energy savings due to its cold processability, as well as its pre-activation, which eliminates the need for high shear forces. By bridging the gap between science and nature, WorléeSuspens Eco represents a significant step forward in sustainable product development. The successful integration of bio-based materials opens the doors to environmentally friendly formulations without compromising performance or ease of use.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Surfactants are must-have ingredients in personal and home care preparations. Today sulfate-derived surfactants, although controversial, are still used to maintain the properties required for foaming products. The reduction of the quantities of sulfate derivatives would be a major advantage. Regarding sulfate-free surfactants, limitations mainly highlighted are ineffective cleaning power and insufficient & unstable foam. In our context of ecological awareness, the reductions in consumptions of surfactants (sulfate & sulfate-free) maintaining efficiency is highly desirable. In this article, we examined the effect of an emulsifier POEM DL-100K (Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate) on different surfactant system. We studied the synergy of POEM DL-100K with known surfactants such as Sodium Coco Sulfate - SCS, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - SCI, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate - Diapon K-SF Powder & Sodium Taurine Cocoyl Methyl Taurate – Diapon K-SG. POEM DL-100K consisting of short molecule with a hydrophilic head and lipophilic chains having HLB value of 9.4. The optimum combination systems (surfactant &POEM DL-100K) are highlighted in this study to promote benefits such as foaming capacity (volume, texture, water release and lasting), cleansing ability and sensory behaviors. POEM DL-100K provides both a lipid-replenishing & smoothing effect and enhances the qualities of the foaming systems: denser, creamier and more stable foam with a comfort and softness feeling. POEM DL-100K is designed for uses in rinse-off & cleansing products in cold-process and allows reducing the concentration of surfactants. These findings suggest that POEM DL-100K is potentially a new approach for conciliate consumer’s satisfaction and environmental impact for personal & home care.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Silicone deposition from hair cleansing formulations (e.g., conditioning shampoos) is a long-standing challenge in the personal care space. Cationic cellulose ethers have been widely used as deposition aids however there is a growing demand from the market to further increase biocarbon content,  use more sustainable processes, and  improve the biodegradation profile of polymeric components. To meet these demands, Dow designed a renewable, bio-derived functional polysaccharide based on biofermented dextran technology: DEXCARE™ CD-1 Polymer which is a highly effective deposition aid for benefit agents such as silicones or natural oils. Study of structure-property-performance relationship, enabled by development of new high throughput research tools, highlighted the impact of the polysaccharide backbone on polymer-aided silicone deposition performance. Through a series of fundamental experiments, it was discovered that dextran deposition aid polymers drive deposition via a novel mechanism involving association of nanocomplexes formed by the polymers in the presence of commonly used shampoo surfactants with silicone emulsion droplets. This new mechanism leads to a twofold increase deposition efficiency over traditional coacervation mechanisms.  This translates into increased hair conditioning performance, including enhanced combing, reduced friction, and improved sensory benefits compared to traditional cationic cellulose ethers.

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Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance / Smells As a Tool in Museums Currently we see a growing interest in the use of smell as a tool in museums of visual art. After co-organizing several scented events for 10+ years, Bernardo Fleming and Caro Verbeek worked on the olfactory tour “In Search of Lost Scents” at Rijksmuseum Amsterdam (2015-2019). Besides creating several historically informed and artistic scents based on the collection of the museum, the team also designed story-telling techniques, scent distribution methods and finally they assessed the impact of olfactory interventions on visitors of different target groups. Both historical and practical information about this will be shared with the audience. Fleming and Verbeek will also elaborate on a unique project at Kunstmuseum Den Haag for which they joined forces again, this time with the question “Can you smell abstraction?; an initiative connected to the olfactory transitions of Mondrian’s studios related to his style innovations from naturalism to abstraction. Those present will be able to smell the Rijksmuseum and Kunstmuseum’s scents for themselves.

Spoken Language: German Category: Fragrance Due to technical advances, multisensory technologies have gained traction in the research and development of many industries. With the launch of virtual and augmented reality systems, the potential for these technologies increased even further. The senses of vision and hearing have long been integrated into current products, leading to the assumption that olfactory stimuli are likely to be included soon to stimulate the sense of smell. With this trend, the issue of implementation into current digital products and services arises, as odors currently cannot be captured in one place and released in another on a large scale. Therefore, this thesis deals with the nature of smell from a cognitive psychological and technological viewpoint. We show why it makes sense to stimulate the sense of smell in multisensory experiences and present early and current technical standards. In addition to this, we conducted expert interviews enabling us to provide insights into the digital scent and olfaction industry. Among other aspects, our results suggest that there are fundamental challenges that developers have to overcome and that a successful implementation depends on the business application.

Spoken Language: German

Spoken Language: English Category: Fragrance On this lecture, I delve into the intriguing world of olfactory art, where the boundaries between visual and sensory experiences blur.  I will uncover the innovative projects who have embraced smells as a fundamental element of creative practice. By utilizing scents as a design tool, I transcend traditional artistic mediums, stimulating our senses and provoking deep emotional responses. From immersive installations to interactive experiences, I explore how the incorporation of smells elevates the artistic discourse, offering a fresh perspective on the power of multisensory engagement and paving the way for a new era in artistic expression. The relationship between science, technology, and sensory experience in the core of this talk.

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"Science behind Cosmetics" The aim of this conference is to present the development of cosmetic sciences with impressive background information.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Which possibilities do we have to design at a later stage energy-optimised commercial products established in the market (here on the example of emulsions) and so to reduce CO2? The guideline for energy-efficient cosmetics production published in Switzerland aims to initiate a positive change in the cosmetics industry. In this presentation, the above-mentioned authors address energy optimisation and its consequences for product quality with a complementary focus. The guide summarises the findings to date with three industry partners and is based on six efficiency concepts. In the first part of the paper, the question is answered as to which are the most important process parameters and other setting factors. On the one hand, these lead to energy-optimised product samples, but at the same time they also have a considerable influence on their final quality. Through modern and skilful process control (temperature, shear rate resp. time) during production the following concrete savings could be achieved: - Increase in productivity by 20-30% - Energy savings of 20-30%. - Increased flexibility in production due to shorter production times - Savings in material costs through optimisation of the cleaning process How can the textures produced by newly adjusted process parameters be promptly analysed for quality differences? The second part of the paper deals with analytical " proof". Which measurement methods are suitable and sensitive enough to detect possible differences. These methods can also provide information on how effectively the setting factors can be optimised to achieve an energy-efficient result. In this case, this means that the newly produced batch must be similar to the standard batch. In order to base the efficiency concepts on an even broader data basis, the authors are looking for additional project partners from industry. They are keen to support companies in implementing positive changes.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care / Process Control Efficiency is a constant factor in economic production. Especially in times of crisis, the importance of resources is re-evaluated. Frike Cosmetics was involved as a participant for the creation of a guide for the cosmetics industry (Energy efficient cosmetics production, a guide with 6 efficiency concepts, Fischer L. J., Huber P., (2023, in progress), DOI). Led by HSLU (Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts) and ZHAW (Zurich University of Applied Sciences and Arts), the following topics were developed: Up- and down-scaling, recipe optimization, process optimization, hot-cold processes, cleaning evaluation, heat recovery and decarbonization. Particular attention was paid to up- and down-scaling. Scaling is relevant for new development as well as for changes in the formulation and between different plants and filling quantities. In order to generate an accurate scale-up/down, the following equipment characteristics were determined: Homogenizer gap width, output and possible shear rates. How this is measured and derived will be explained at the presentation with an example. Based on this data, the individual production lines as well as laboratory equipment were then harmonized with each other based on mass and homogenizing time. This was checked and verified on a product by means of a scale-down test. According to this principle, scale-up processes can be skipped, and the risk of faulty production can be reduced. Furthermore, the development window can be shortened, and this leads to a more efficient and economical development. The main challenge here is the exact determination of the individual formulations. A recirculation in a production plant with circulation or a short post-homogenization in the laboratory must be precisely noted and taken into account. Working with a more accurate and harmonized scale-up/down process is of significant advantage not only for development but for the entire company.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Cold process emulsification has become popular as a way of reducing energy, production time and costs. It is seen as a greener production method, increasing the sustainability of a cosmetic emulsion and significantly reducing the carbon footprint. Compared to the conventional emulsification process up to 90% of the energy and the time for heating and cooling can be saved. On the one hand the cold process has clear benefits, on the other hand the selection of suitable cosmetic ingredients is limited and has some preconditions, especially when natural cosmetics are the aim. Regarding the development of formulations for cold process O/W and W/O emulsions, the most ingredients have to be liquid, and solids have to be soluble in the oil phase or the aqueous phase. Some ingredients such as metal soaps or solid particles which form Pickering emulsions are dispersed in order to stabilize emulsions. Waxes and polymers which have to be processed hot, or solid emulsifiers which have to be molten, are excluded from those formulations. In this presentation, the variety of suitable basic ingredients, which is nevertheless still huge, will be presented and compared as an orientation for product development, focusing on emulsifiers and rheological additives or thickeners. In emulsions that are produced in a hot or hot/cold process, solid, wax-like ingredients are parts of stabilizing lamellar gel structures or oleogels. Therefore, in the cold process a different formulation world is present. The performance of emulsifiers, stabilizing and rheological additives has been investigated. In this presentation, formulation concepts for cold processed O/W emulsions, W/O emulsions, and Pickering emulsions are presented, which were compared with each other and with hot processed emulsions.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Microbiome The skin’s microbiome is a fascinating new world currently being explored. The microbes inhabiting our skin interact both with each other and us. This intricate interplay is further influenced by various factors, e.g. gender, age, body location and the environment, and the microbiota adapts to this. The effects of cosmetics on the skin’s microbiota are increasingly being explored, primarily in terms of how bioactives can modulate the microbial composition of the skin. Yet, it is also clear that the healthy balance of microbial inhabitants is also of the essence. Skin care formulations do not only consist of bioactives. We took the road less travelled and explored the effects of the “galenics” – the formulation ingredients otherwise found in personal care products (e.g. emollients and emulsifiers). As the composition of a healthy skin microbiota varies between individuals, the main intent was to identify ingredients do not disrupt the complex microbial communities found on healthy skin. A selection of ingredients was screened using minimal inhibitory concentrations tests and/or using 16S rDNA/rRNA microbiome analyses of skin swabs taken before and after 28 days of use by human volunteers with healthy skin (in vivo). Based on the results, skin care formulations were developed and tested in vivo – with success. This study results demonstrate that by careful screening of ingredients combined with formulation expertise, science-backed skin care products can be developed that can truly be claimed to be “microbiome-friendly”. These formulations can also fulfil other consumer expectations linked to their skin care products (e.g. moisturization, good sensorial attributes). These chassis can then be used to incorporate specific bioactives that target defined skin conditions. As new insights into formulation technologies that help to maintain a healthy skin microbiome were found, this allows new holistic approaches to be developed and which “never change a winning team”.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Microbiome ScentARC prebiotic blend has been designed to shift the odor profile in the underarm area to a neutral and more natural scent by modulating the underarm microbiota. First we identified and studied the metabolism of microorganisms that influence the production of malodors and those that do not. To do that we used whole genome sequencing and high throughput screening techniques to evaluate the impact of various compounds and conditions on their growth. Tens of thousands of data points were developed and then bioinformatics and machine learning were employed to create prebiotic blends that could promote a shift in the underarm microbiota. The impact of the blend candidates were tested on target microorganisms individually and in mock communities via qPCR, sequencing, and GC-MS. Top performing prebiotic blends were then tested with in-house panels and consumers to finalize the optimum ScentARC blend.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Cosmetic UV-filters based on 1,3,5-Triazine chemistry are largely used with 67% of sunscreens launched in Europe in 2022 containing at least one of them. Main representatives are the lipophilic Ethylhexyl Triazone (EHT) and Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) filters which need to be dissolved in cosmetic oils for use in sunscreens. Another example is Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT), which is prepared as an aqueous dispersion of particles due to its low solubility in water and oil. These filters are generally regarded as the benchmark for photostability. To achieve the minimum requirement for UVA protection, a sunscreen also typically contains a UVA filter such as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) or Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB). Compared to DHHB, BMDBM shows poor photostability and can also impact the photostability of other filters present in the sunscreen. To palliate its lack of stability during UV exposure, BEMT is often used together with BMDBM to quench its excited state and prevent its photodegradation. However, less is known about the consequence for BEMT in this process. Therefore, we examined the impact of BMDBM on the photokinetics of BEMT as well as on the other main 1,3,5-Triazine filters by experimental techniques and quantum-chemical calculations to identify possible photo-stabilizing or -destabilizing mechanisms within the binary systems. DHHB was evaluated as an alternative to BMDBM. In the experiments, BMDBM showed a photodestabilization effect on the lipophilic 1,3,5-Triazine-based filters. In contrast, DHHB did not show any photodestabilizing effects, and even acted as a photostabilizer. The experimental observations were in accordance with the quantum-chemical calculations, which for instance, predicted a triplet-triplet energy transfer from triazines to DHHB. This study shows the usefulness to identify photostabilization / photodestabilization mechanisms between UV filters to best choose the UV filter combination for an efficient and safe sunscreen.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Nanosized colloidal systems (NSCSs) have structures a particle or droplet size < 500 nm. NSCSs applied to the skin are now the centre of attention and are expected to be increasingly applied because the skin offers a lot of advantages. For cosmetic use of NSCSs, one has to differentiate between the desired effects: the effect on the skin or the effect within the skin. The stratum corneum (SC), the very tight barrier of the skin, has to be overcome if the cosmetic actives (CA) should penetrate into the skin layers. Therefoe, in cosmetics new NSCSs such as nanoparticular systems (nanoparticles (NP) and nanocrystals), nanoemulsions, microemulsions (ME), and special vesicular systems (e.g. unilamellar liposomes) are being developed and investigated. NSCSs are particularly valuable for the application of extremely hydrophilic CA such as peptides and for extremely lipophilic CA such as ceramides (CER) (see also Neubert). During the last years many new insights into the nanostructure of the SC, in particular of its lipid matrix, prompted the development of new delivery systems for CA such as NSCSs. The ultimate goal is to understand the interactions between the lipid bilayers of the SC and the different cosmetic NSCSs, thereby creating the most efficient and mild NSCS. Taken together, the presented NSCSs have different potentials concerning the application of CA. MEs appear to be most promising for the delivery of CA. Most challenging is the use of NPs for SC targeting of extremely lipophilic actives such as ceramides. Cerosomes have great potentials concerning the incorporation of the CER into the SC lipids. Nevertheless, it is necessary (1) to understand the transport mechanism the NSCS (2) to study the toxicology of these systems and (3) to simplify the production procedures of NPs and NCs. Neubert RHH (2011) Eur J Pharm Biopharm 77: 1–2

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During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. organizes an Application Oriented Poster Exposition (Forum for Innovation). Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations

During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V., DGK e.V. and also the GDCh organizes a Scientific Poster Exposition. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations