Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
09:00 - 09:15
Study of the Impact of Thickeners on Fragrance Formulation and Application
Mafalda González-Abelleira, Esencias Moles S.A.
Lecture Language: English Category: Fragrance Fragrance and cosmetics formulations can be improved, in terms of technical performance and marketing appeal, through the use of thickening agents. Enhancing viscosity can increase the stability of a product and provide a convenient packaging format for delivering fragrances. Thickeners can also play an important role in improving sensorial properties, creating an attractive product that suits consumer needs. Much is already known about the use of thickeners in water-based formulations, given their extensive use in the cosmetic and food industries to date. On the other hand, there has been less research into thickener use in formulations with a higher oil content, like fragrances. The aim of this study was to develop a fragrance formulation with a viscosity higher than 4,500 cP and a fragrance content of more than 18%. Aesthetic factors were also taken into account as well as the ease of the manufacturing process. The study involved various formulations and methods of preparation, tailored to the different thickeners. Tests were conducted using common synthetic thickeners – acrylic polymer (AP), amide polymer (ADP), carbomer (C) and caprylic capric triglyceride (CC) – and natural thickeners – ethyl cellulose (EC), xanthan gum (XG), xanthan gum and brown seaweed (XGB), xanthan gum and carob (XGC). The highest viscosity (7,780 cP) was achieved with EC, which also retained a high level of fragrance (75%) and made a transparent formulation, but required heating to 80°C and was unable to suspend pigments. CC retained more fragrance (85%), had a high viscosity (5,015 cP) but a less clear, yellow appearance. Among those thickeners that showed good suspension properties and with no need for heating, XGB had the highest viscosity (5,395 cP), although only retained 20% of fragrance. As such, the results were very diverse, with the optimum thickener varying according to application, customer expectation and manufacturing capabilities.
Lecture Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment As our market grows towards a more environmentally friendly future, today’s consumers search for sustainable home care cleaning formulations with naturally derived, biodegradable ingredients that maintain excellent performance. Formulators rely on innovative, nature-based ingredients to deliver safety and reliability to consumers. Sustainable cleaning routines go beyond naturally derived ingredients, however. Home care solutions that reduce overall water usage, prioritize renewable energy and limit the implementation of unnecessary plastic add value to sustainable cleaning routines. Solvay works through responsible sourcing to improve our environmental impact in our range of sustainable home care ingredients. in this framework, Solvay is innovating by finding a new way of manufacturing to reduce the carbon footprint of its ethoxylated surfactant by using ethylene oxide made from sugar cane instead of petrochemical feedstock. The Bio ethylene is produced by fermentation and oxidation of the sugar cane. For sustainable home care solutions, Solvay offers natural-based ethoxyated surfactants with 100% of natural origin carbon. Our Rhodasurf® 6 NAT and Rhodapex® ESB-70 NAT are sustainable, high renewable carbon index surfactants that combine excellent performance with eco-friendly sourcing. For instance, Rhodasurf® 6 NAT is a 100% bio-based Laureth-6 from Palm Kernel and Sugar Cane. Its performance is identical to petro-based options but having 100% of natural origin carbon. Using Rhodasurf® 6NAT will allow formulators to reduce the green house gas emission by 20% and the consumption of Nonrenewable resource by 30% by replacing all petrochemical feedstock with biobased product. Rhodapex® 6 NAT is used in applications such as laundry detergents as excellent emulsifiers with good detergency and wetting properties but with an outstanding sustainable profile.
09:30 - 09:45
From Concept to Practice: Eco-designed Esters from Sustainable Source for Ethical Cosmetics
Andrea Maltagliati, ROELMI HPC
Lecture Language: English Category: Sustainability / Concrete Sustainability A range of sustainable esters has been developed through the valorization of Italian richness in agricultural heritage. Two different vegetal sources have been investigated: (i) non-edible olive fractions, (ii) thistle seeds. To investigate the benefits of using Olive Oil by-products in cosmetics, high-quality raw materials, coming from a transparent circular economy model and traceable Italian supply chain, where only soft technologies, which maintain a natural profile, are selected. The result is a range of high performance ingredients (Olifeel Line), with specific cosmetic functions, obtained from high purification Olea Europaea fractions. Each element line results in such purity that allows formulators working with complete freedom in choosing a natural ingredient with high versatility thanks to its chemical nature which provide a wide variety of applications. The process of Olive fraction purification happens once they have already exited the food production chain. Results are: (i) natural actives carrier and skin-feel enhancer, (ii) natural touch and stabilizing rheology modifier. An industrial plant, completely converted to “green chemistry” allows the creation of high-purity Pelargonic acid (above 98%) from cardoon seed extract, by local cultivar in marginal lands, as starting base for the development of high-quality esters. A bioeconomy integrated model for territorial regeneration in Sardinia (Italy). Targeting the cosmetic market, these ingredients are the sustainable choice for formulators. Sustainable esters (EMotion Line) with surprising capacities: outstanding properties in terms of solubilization and dispersion of UV filters and pigments, strong ability in conferring color intensity, homogeneity tint, good texture, bright and glossy effect to the formulation. Biodegradability tested according to OECD method. A step forward in light of sustainability, is represented by a selection of water-soluble and liposoluble botanical extracts from Mediterranean basin. In line with Circular economy and welcoming the Nagoya protocol, they are coming from an innovative extraction process, using only sustainable solvents.
Lecture Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Our industry's path into a green future is shaped by actors such as sustainability and careful use of resources. It requires new ways of thinking and new concepts. Nature is the best model in this respect - through the targeted recycling of resources, it functions practically without waste. REFORCYL®-AION, a holistic upcycling concept for skin, soul and our planet, is based on this principle. Find out how REFORCYL®-AION can help you develop high-quality cosmetic products that are both ecological and effective. Contents of the lecture: - Beauty formula autophagy - how perfectly clean cells make the skin glow - Beauty balm for the soul - how we feel and look brilliant - Recycling instead of disposing - a "pumpkin-shaped", ecological cycle from the field into the jar - REFORCYL®-AION - a CO2-neutral, natural upcycling active ingredient for your products and a young, healthy skin
Lecture Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Clothes have a significant effect on the way we feel, the way we go about our day and our inner confidence. Clothing is an expression of ourselves and can have a positive impact on our mood. However, the fashion industry is well known to be a highly unsustainable industry and one significant opportunity to reduce the environmental impact is to increase the active life of clothing. If clothes look newer for longer, people will keep and wear them for longer. Coltide Radiance is a sustainable, functionalised biopolymer additive for fabric care. A highly efficient and biodegradable product used at low inclusion levels to add fabric protection and rejuvenation properties to fabric care products. We will present innovative data to demonstrate restoration of shape, strength and softness to garments that have been damaged during the wash and wear cycle. Protecting the fibre, fabric and prints of clothes you love from further signs of damage means you can look and feel good for longer.
Lecture Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment As formulators, we recognize our dual role as consumers. More importantly, we acknowledge our position as good global citizens responsible for reducing the stress we place on our planet, knowing that the choices we make as consumers directly impact the environment. As formulators, we eagerly accept our ongoing challenge to design new and innovative solutions that not only appeal to the customer’s bottom line, but also address the global environmental concerns of today’s consumers. Beyond the call for “Clean Beauty” products and the strides made over the past decade in terms of safety and origin of ingredients, we now need to answer a new call for actions that will reduce the environmental impact of single-use packaging and other mounting plastic waste. Formulation science is uniquely positioned to challenge the product packaging status quo by designing new methods and configurations that offer a renewed and appealing product experience, while advancing environmental change that can make a positive impact on our habits as consumers. Leveraging our physical chemistry expertise, material science and know-how, Solvay is developing new solutions for a "No Plastic Waste Beauty" with different technologies as Jaguar®, Miranol®, Mackadet®, Mackam®...)
11:00 - 11:15
Dust Free and Safe Handling of Powders in Home and Personal Care Production
Dr.-Ing. Hans-Joachim Jacob, ystral gmbh
Lecture Language: English Category: Technology Machinery / Production In production of Cosmetics, Detergents and Cleaners many powders have to be mixed into liquids. Their dust is always hazardous if inhaled and often additionally combustible causing the risk of a dust explosion. Breathing fine dust is often harmful. Enzyme powders like Amylase or Protease for example cause sensitisation. Aluminiumchlorhydrate, SLS-powder and organic acids are extremely irritant. Other powders may cause lung disease if inhaled. Later in final liquid, gel or cream they are completely safe. But during production they are critical. Other powders create combustible dust during transport and handling. Examples are organic thickeners, polymers, encapsulated fragrances, organically coated powders, waxes, starches etc. Starch or vitamin B3 for example, which is applied in many skin care formulations, is often used to demonstrate dust explosions. Ystral provides a Technology for dust free and safe induction of harmful and dust-ex powders under controlled conditions. Ystral TDS machines create an internal vacuum inside the liquid. This way the liquid itself inducts the powder dust and loss free directly from bags, drums or boxes. No filters nor dust extractions are required. Even powders with very low Minimum Ignition Energy (MIE) are inducted without risk. Ystral provides machines for installation in classified ex-zones. But in Home and Personal Care Production the area for handling these critical dust-ex powders is typically not classified as dust-ex zone. This is no problem. Ystral provides specially equipped and certified machines for the safe handling of dust-ex powders even in not ex classified zones. These machines have a special ATEX classification. Another topic is the induction into inflammable liquids like alcohols. A typical example is the induction of resins into ethanol in the production of hair lacquer. Severe accidents happened in the past. The Conti-TDS guarantees a safe process today.
09:00 - 09:15
SunSpheres™ BIO SPF Booster: A New Bio-derived and Biodegradable SPF Booster for Sun Care
Ingrid Vervier, Dow Silicones Belgium SPRL
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Ultraviolet (UV) exposure is considered as the primary root cause for non-biological skin ageing and non-melanoma skin cancer. Conventional suncare includes UV filters and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) boosters. UV filters are the active to absorb UV. SPF boosters can help achieve high sun protection with less UV actives and provide improved sensory performance (e.g., less greasy/oily). However, many UV filters and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) boosters used for sun protection are perceived as -not environmentally friendly. Delivering a sustainable high SPF sunscreen is a major challenge faced by the industry. Dow is excited to launch SunSpheres™ BIO SPF Booster, a bio-based microcrystalline cellulose derived from FSC certified wood pulp, with a natural origin index of 0.97 according to ISO16128 standards, and it can be claimed as a Derived Natural Ingredient. It also contains 100% renewable carbon and is biodegradable. The material delivers SPF boosting effect demonstrated both in vitro and in vivo in various sunscreen formulation chassis at low concentration level with additional benefits including no whitening, water thickening and excellent shear thinning for spreadability and sprayability. SunSpheresTM BIO SPF Booster can be easily formulated into a variety of formulation chassis, including oil in water, water in oil, and water in silicone, with either organic or inorganic UV actives. The material has also demonstrated good heat age stability in sunscreen formulations. The mechanism of action for SPF boosting was attributed to the material`s unique physical properties that led to superior UV light scattering capability. SunSpheres™ BIO SPF Booster is therefore able to address the prevailing need in sun care for improved UV protection.
09:15 - 09:30
A New 360° Approach to Achieve Optimized Sunscreen Formulations
Martina Issleib, Symrise AG
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Formulators of sun protection products are confronted with a variety of different, sometimes controversial, challenges. The request for high SPFs leads to higher oil content, more electrolytes and pigments which may eventually destabilize formulations. High oil contents affect skin feel and texture and hinder the formulation of light and dry products. UV-filters do not always reach their full protection capacity due to a lack in film forming and uneven droplet distribution. The need for higher emulsifier concentrations to achieve stable formulations can decrease the water resistance of formulations. Film forming products promising to retain water resistance often lead to a tacky or dull sensation on skin. The desire for more naturalness in cosmetics demands for ingredients able to replace micro-plastics and synthetic or silicone based ingredients. A bunch of different raw materials is usually needed to satisfy every single requirement. So called SPF booster, film former and co-emulsifier are typical candidates. The multifunctional and patented blend consisting of a natural wax and an anionic lactic acid ester is a 360° approach to all these challenges. In-vivo studies show increased SPF and water resistance in different basic sunscreen formulations. Additionally the blend contributes to emulsion stability and makes co-emulsifiers obsolete. It provides gentle film-forming in formulations without negative effects on the skin feel. A trained test panel attests that the sensorial profile in a sunscreen emulsion is comparable to the same formulation using a silicone derived film former instead. To make the 360°complete, the multifunctional blend is based on 100% renewable raw materials. By eliminating silicone/synthetic raw materials for different purposes with one natural based product it is possible to go the next step towards a high degree of sustainability and naturalness in sun protection cosmetics.
09:30 - 09:45
Solaveil HTP1: A New COSMOS Approved Sunscreen Active with Minimal Whitening
Dr. Elisabeth Streefland, Croda GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Balancing an effective particle size with appealing aesthetics, Croda's latest innovation brings perfect harmony to skin protection products: SolaveilTM HTP1 is a sunscreen grade Titanium Dioxide powder and is the first product available from the SolaveilTM Harmony range. SolaveilTM HTP1 has been developed using Croda’s patent protected technology. Its particle size has been carefully balanced to provide minimal whitening on skin, whilst also being large enough to be suitable for natural and COSMOS approved formulations. This mineral sunscreen active is approved worldwide as a UV filter and is inherently mild and safe, making it particularly suitable for sensitives skin and babies. Used as a single active ingredient, SolaveilTM HTP1 meets current FDA guidelines for UVA protection (critical wavelength) and in most systems also achieves European UVA requirements, and the proposed new UVA1/UV criteria in the USA. SolaveilTM HTP1 is compatible with a wide range of oils and solid loadings up to 15% for oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions can easily be achieved. If necessary, Solaveil Harmony can be combined with organic sunscreens. It can be used in cold process systems.
09:45 - 10:00
A 2-in-1 Solution to Improve Both the Sustainability Profile and Sensory of your Sunscreens
Maxime Fougère, Lubrizol
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Sunhancer™ Eco SPF booster is an all-natural powder that increases SPF and is compatible with a broad range of cosmetic ingredients. Composed of micron-sized rough particles, it is made from a blend of two sustainably sourced waxes. It is also non-nano, inherently biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment while reducing the amount of UV filters needed in a formulation. In a sunscreen, the particles of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF booster increase the number of scattering sites, limiting the interaction of UV rays with the skin. The product impacts the entire UV spectrum and works both with organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. It also provides a powdery after-feel to formulations, improves sunscreen aesthetics and lightness, while reducing oiliness, drag and skin irritation. These benefits make Sunhancer™ Eco SPF booster ideal for a daily sunscreen, multitasking moisturizer with sun protection and sun care formulations.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care We all love that natural sun-kissed glow that we can get from a summer holiday! In the context of a recent DSM Global Survey with more than 4.000 consumers, over 60% of respondents declared to value “having some tan to look good & healthy”, true across age groups with bigger relevance below 55y.o.. With a just back from holiday look, people feel beautiful and confident enough to wear less make-up, healthier and revitalised…with beauty standards evolving towards a more natural effect and diverting from deep tanning. But unfortunately holiday breaks come around rarely and, in the meantime, our busy everyday lives can leave our skin looking dull and tired. How getting a natural healthy glow all year round, then? Quick-fixing solutions, like special make-up or self-tanners, can be options, but they are recognized having some limitations in providing a natural effect: consumers want more… DSM Personal Care proudly introduces the perfect solution for this market framework. SYN-GLOW™ is the brand new Glow Boosting Peptide, that partners with skin to reveal its natural sun-kissed tone from within…all year round, as if you were just back from holidays! Our pentapeptide, with a unique amino acid sequence, has been designed to be highly selective agonist of Melanocortin Receptor-1 or MC1R (in vitro scientific evidence, not final product claim), with the intent of enhancing skin’s natural tone while strengthening skin defences from within. The efficacy of SYN-GLOW™ has been proven ex-vivo and in-vivo with outstanding results. It’s clinically validated: SYN-GLOW™ promotes a visible healthy glow in just 5 days (+90% vs control, high significance) and long lasting result (up to 2.5 weeks proven visibility, highly significantly better than control) to achieve a natural bespoke complexion. 100% of volunteers noticed their skin fresher and more revitalized after the application.
10:15 - 10:30
Rheozan® - SH The Natural Rheology Polymer of Choice to Overcome the Limitations of Xanthan Gum
Caroline Mabille, Solvay
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The use of synthetic rheology polymers like Carbomer or Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is declining, particularly in EU and NA, as a consequence of the Clean, Green and Certified beauty trends, and the upcoming regulations around polymers (microplastic restriction, REACH polymer). Xanthan gum is usually the natural rheology polymer that formulators are going to consider & test first when moving away from synthetic polymers. The use of xanthan gum into skin care products is already very well established. However, xanthan gum has some limitations. It provides a sticky skin feel, has a limited pH tolerance and it does not enable the design of emulsifier-free formulas. Solvay offers RheozanⓇ SH (INCI: Succinoglycan), a 100% natural and readily biodegradable polymeric rheology modifier produced by fermentation of Non-GMO Agrobacterium Tumefaciens. It is very similar to Xanthan Gum in terms of rheological properties and way to use & formulate. However, RheozanⓇ SH provides the advantage of delivering a very pleasant smooth & velvety skin feel, making it an excellent choice as a stabilizer of oil-in-water formulations in “masstige” and prestige skin care, as well as in sun care where achieving aesthetically-pleasing products can be a challenge. RheozanⓇ SH also exhibits a unique wide pH tolerance (1-14) making it particularly relevant for applications such as AHA-based anti-aging, skin exfoliation, skin whitening, skin tanning, and depilatories. Finally, RheozanⓇ SH allows the design of emulsifier-free formulas, what could be of particular interest for natural skin care (EO-free emulsification), as well as for facial skin care for dry & sensitive skins.
11:00 - 11:15
Small, but Smart – Your Submicron Bodyguards: Boosting the Skin Barrier with Ceramide Delivery Systems
Kristin Köhler, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The skin barrier protects our skin from dehydration, prevents from external aggressors and ensures the functionality of the skin as our body’s biggest organ. It is a real bodyguard. However, internal and external factors can harm the sensitive lipid layer and affect the protective functions possibly resulting in a decreased humidity level, hypersensitivity or premature skin aging. Besides cholesterol and different essential fatty acids, ceramides are the most essential building blocks of the skin barrier. The skin’s natural regeneration process to restore the lipid layer is often reduced with stressed or damaged skin, which makes the dermal application of ceramide containing products necessary to rebuild the lipid layer. Specially developed for those requirements, BergaCare SmartLipids Ceramide offer lipid encapsulated skin-identical submicron molecules mimicking, repairing and enhancing the natural skin barrier. The SmartLipid technology offers additional advantages such as higher ceramide loading capacity, improved skin penetration of the active, reduced TEWL, stabilized system and easy incorporation. A sustainable and long-term repair of the skin barrier does not solely relate to the external supply of highly efficient actives. Suitable delivery systems with excellent adhesion, increased residence time on the skin and therefore significantly improved efficacy are mandatory. Learn more about how the smart and multifunctional delivery systems of BergaCare SmartLipids Ceramide answer the needs for a strengthened skin barrier and how to use them in cosmetic formulations.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Clean Beauty is a trend that meanwhile has been becoming a lifestyle. Undeceived customers have more and more specific questions, which reveal that Clean Beauty is being understood in different ways. For this reason, there is now more talk about Clean and Green, which addresses both the benefit for the consumer and the environmental impact in sourcing and use of a product. The focus is on terms such as ethical sourcing, natural compatibility and health. This applies to all areas of daily life and ultimately also to cosmetics. Examples of ingredients that reflect this trend illustrate how the cosmetics industry takes these customer needs seriously.
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Wesource™ introduces Hydrachrysum™, an innovative moisturizer offering a solution to break Inflamm’dryness™ vicious circle to tackle dry skin conditions. Dry skin is characterized by tightness, itching, lack of elasticity and an overall discomfort. The altered barrier function leads to dehydration, impaired lipid production and an inflammation signalling cascade. Recent scientific progress has linked skin dryness to inflammation: this is the Inflamm’dryness™ phenomenon. Hydrachrysum™ is the new natural ally of dry skin. Bio-inspired by Helichrysum stoechas, the Everlasting maritime plant which adapts to its arid ecosystem, Hydrachrysum™ has been developed using our Celtosome™ biotechnology. It offers a unique molecular richness made up of hydrophilic & lipophilic molecules derived from the dedifferentiated plant cells and specific ones secreted in the medium. Hydrachrysum™ is a patented moisturizing active ingredient that breaks the Inflamm’dryness™ vicious circle. It induces a decrease of pro-inflammatory and an increase of pro-resolutive mediators to allow a return to homeostasis and improved barrier function. Hydrachrysum™ increases the number of lacunae, these markers of hydration acting as extracellular water tanks and representing up to 40% of the volume of the stratum corneum. It boosts skin moisturization after only 5 days by increasing significantly the number of lacunae +82%* vs placebo. Hydrachrysum™ is Cosmos and NaTrue approved, Halal certified, and scientifically proven with in-vitro, ex-vivo and in-vivo data at 1%.
11:45 - 12:00
Taking Care of Melatonin Release for a Healthier Skin
Matthias Lammert, Givaudan Active Beauty
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Sleeping is one of the most important beauty secrets. Overnight, our skin is regenerating thanks to the action of melatonin, well-known to preserve skin youth from oxidative reac-tions and enabling rejuvenation processes. However, its release may be impaired by excessive digital stress exposure, causing premature skin ageing. To counteract this, we developed a botanical complex able to avoid perturbation in the melatonin production rhythm, even when skin is exposed to digital devices. Synchronight™ is a patent-pending extract of Gardenia fruits, specifically enriched in crocin, stabilised in a NAtural Deep Eutectic Solvent. Its specific composition has been optimised to absorb wavelengths of digital devices, allowing to protect the natural production of melatonin by skin. Additionally, crocin has been evaluated by our microbiome experts who demonstrated its conversion by skin microflora into crocetin, a molecule able to bind to melatonin receptors, thereby mimicking the biological actions of melatonin. The efficacy of Synchronight™ has been exhaustively studied through a full set of in vitro and ex vivo tests. Under intense blue light emissions, it protects mitochondrial network up to +51%, and reduces skin proteins oxidation down to -81%. A double blind clinical study versus placebo has been performed on volunteers daily exposed to digital devices emissions. The results highlighted the significant anti-ageing benefits of Synchronight™ with a -26% reduction of crow’s feet wrinkles number after 56 days; 75% of volunteers evaluating their skin as smoother and 80% as more hydrated. Furthermore, Synchronight™ was shown to deliver major well-being benefits through an improvement of sleep quality. Volunteers’ awakenings were reduced by -87% (from 23.0 to 3.0) and falling asleep was deemed easy for 90.3% of testers.
12:00 - 12:15
Bicoalgae® line: Decelerate Aging with Bicosome Skin Superfoods
Freek van Baars, KREGLINGER EUROPE
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care In the research of new solutions the main source of inspiration continues to be Nature. In this sense, microalgae have been gaining the spotlight in our hearts. Microalgae are exceptional sources of biomolecules with outstanding nutrition capacity and skincare benefits. They are also full of challenges to be used topically. Strong colour and smell and difficulty of stabilising their powerful antioxidants are some of them. In this talk, we are going to reveal how Bicosome® technology solves limitations and boosts microalgae benefits in the skin, and how our new skin superfood ingredients decelerate ageing and pro-resolve skin inflammaging processes. Bicoalgae® was created from our deep wish of integrating nature intelligence and skin technology.
12:15 - 12:30
FEMINAGE™, an Eco-designed Active Ingredient, which Counteracts Hormonal Skin Sagging to Redefine Femininity
Dr. Sarah Pütsch, Sederma GmbH
Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Menopause is recognised as a major change in the life of women and has a tremendous impact on the skin, hair and body beauty and perception. Peri- and menopausal women frequently experience skin sagging, including sagging of the cheeks, jawline and eyelids, as a sign of ageing at the onset of menopause, changing their facial contours. FEMINAGE™ is an extract of the plant Engelhardia chrysolepis, titrated in astilbin and its derivatives, designed to serve the specific needs of women experiencing skin sagging related to the declining oestrogen levels. In vitro tests demonstrated that FEMINAGE™ helps to protect the integrity, quality and functionality of the elastic tissue and counteracts glycation. Furthermore, FEMINAGE™ possesses anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory properties and stimulates the synthesis of major components of the dermal-epidermal junction to fight against its weakening caused by ageing. In vivo studies on a Caucasian and a Chinese panel of menopausal women revealed that the application of FEMINAGE™ led to a significant facial and eye contour remodelling. FEMINAGE™ significantly reduced sagging of the cheeks and enhanced their firmness and elasticity. Furthermore, the application of FEMINAGE™ significantly improved the appearance of marionette lines, smoothed crow`s feet wrinkles and reduced droopy eyelids. Thus, FEMINAGE™ exerts multiple beneficial effects to cope with oestrogen deficiency and fights skin sagging to redefine femininity and to remodel facial contours.
09:00 - 09:30
New Trends in Lignocellulosic Biomass Uses: Synthesis, Properties, and Applications of Greener Alkyl Polyglycosides
Ph.D. Boris Estrine, AgroIndustry Research and Developements (ARD)
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents The lecture will be dedicated to lignocellulosic biomass (crops residues and wastes) and its two main components D-xylose and D-Glucose as raw materials for the production of green surfactants i.e. alkylpolyglycosides. Alkylpolyglucosides (APG) surfactants have been industrially developed since the last 80’s. This lecture will present recent developments in the field of alkylpolyglycosides focusing on D-xylose based equivalent molecules or APG formulation improvements. The context of alkylpolyglycosides uses and noteworthy the preparation of glucose and/or pentose based surfactants will be discussed. The recent progresses on Fischer glycosylation and on the conversion of lignocellulosic polysaccharides into various alkyl glycosides will be addressed. This lecture will provide also a discussion of various surfactant properties that can be displayed following the nature of the process, the sugar based material (xylans, lignocellulosic biomass, D-xylose and D-Glucose monomers). The application fields, health benefits and the ecological profile of the alkylpolyglycosides thus obtained will be discussed. The context of biorefinery for production of these green surfactant will be also presented and will highlight the progress done by the industry to improve ecology when producing and using these green surfactants in detergents.
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Humans spend 90% of their lives indoors. This close contact between people and the fear of microscopic organisms has driven us to keep our indoor environments as clean as possible. Unfortunately, this results in the use of harsh chemical cleaners that are designed to kill the microorganisms all around us. Scientific studies suggest that microbes are critical to our wellbeing and that reduced exposure to microbial diversity is hypothesized to underlie adverse health effects. Given these observations, it is time to rethink how we treat our microbial cohabitants. We are developing cleaning solutions aimed at harnessing the natural cleaning potential of select microbes, while also considering the microbiome of our homes and the natural state to which our indoor spaces should return. Our work focuses on creating probiotic compatible cleaning chemistry formulations that can seed the indoor environment with beneficial microbes. These formulations are designed such that the organisms (spore state) remain viable during storage but have the potential to germinate and become active once applied. We show that specific cleaning chemistry can support instantaneous cleaning of visible soils and that active probiotics are capable of secreting enzymes that break down a variety of kitchen soils and stains. Furthermore, using a suite of microbiological assays, from surface contact plating to DNA sequencing, we show that the probiotics from these cleaners can be isolated from surfaces long after the cleaning is finished. This cleaning process contributes to a naturalization of the microbiome in our homes, such that the odds of touching a disease-causing organism versus a probiotic on the home surface could be a million to one. With technology consciously designed to support the cleaning potential of microbes, we can begin to embrace our microbial cohabitants and provide a sustainable alternative to the harmful cleaners currently in use.
10:00 - 10:30
Effective Cleaning through a Second Skin – Protein Layer Structure as Key for Successful Formulations
Dr. Matthias Reihmann, GELITA AG
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents The innovative easy-to-clean concept with hydrophilic protective layers, which are formed by functional collagen peptides on cleaned surfaces, enables the formulation of more environmentally friendly cleaning agents that work effectively even under mild pH conditions. In addition to superior cleaning results, extended cleaning cycles, lower water consumption and simplified cleaning are already documented advantages. The harmonization of the surfactant-protein film interaction has proven to be an important key for successful formulations. The choice of surfactant significantly influences the hydrophilicity of the protective layer. Interestingly, depending on the collagen peptide concentration, cleaners can have different surface affinities combined with comparable surface tension. For different cleaning formulations with constant surfactant content, both an increase and a reduction of the contact angle on a ceramic tile were observed depending on the peptide concentration – despite nearly constant surface tension. This led to clear differences in the effectiveness of the cleaners. Further studies examined whether the protein film may promote the growth or survival of microorganisms on a cleaned surface or if it perhaps can also inhibit it. For this purpose, the growth of various specified test bacteria was compared on different surfaces. The first results show that ready-to-use product formulations can be equipped with the protein-induced easy-to-clean effect without having any adverse effects on the bacterial load on the surface in practice. In addition, it might be even possible to transport or fix active substances via the protein film to cleaned surfaces, which could temporarily protect these surfaces against pathogenic substances.
11:00 - 11:30
Evaluation of the Antimicrobial Effect of Household Cleaners on Various Surfaces
Britta Brands, Hochschule Rhein-Waal
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents The hygiene awareness of consumers has increased not only since the corona crisis. While the effect of biocidal products on different groups of microorganisms has been well investigated, no data on the antimicrobial effects of common household cleaners have been published. As part of a study, the antimicrobial effect of various cleaners on three surfaces (stainless steel, ceramic, polypropylene) was examined, based on the requirements of DIN EN 13697. The test organisms Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Enterococcus hirae and Escherichia coli were used to test the bactericidal activity. The fungicidal activity was assessed using Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. For comparison, the surface tests were carried out with and without mechanical action in the presence of high organic loads (3.0 g/l bovine serum albumin) and a negative control (water of standardized hardness). The logarithmic germ reduction was calculated to determine the antimicrobial effect. For all microorganisms, except for C. albicans and S. aureus, a reduction by the cleaners could be determined even without mechanical action. Regardless of the surface used, the application of the tested products resulted in a high logarithmic reduction (4-8 log-levels) for E. coli, E. hirae and P.aeruginosa. An additional mechanical action increased the hygienic effectiveness for all cleaners and surfaces. A difference in the logarithmic reduction in relation to the tested surfaces was especially found for A. brasiliensis. Here the logarithmic reduction was highest for all cleaners on stainless steel.
11:30 - 12:00
With or without Handshakes: Formulating Safe, Gentle and Effective Hand Disinfectants
Esther Lansdaal, Corbion
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Disinfectant Agents The coronavirus pandemic has brought renewed attention to the importance of hand hygiene. Health and governmental authorities worldwide stress the potential of conscientious hygienic practices, like those recommended by the World Health Organization, to slow the spread of COVID-19. Thorough handwashing is an essential practice, as are "social distancing" habits such as forgoing handshakes, kisses and other forms of greeting that involve physical contact. Disinfectant products providing a convenient means of sanitization when handwashing is not possible are also important. But given the need for frequent hand cleansing to avoid infection, many disinfecting hand rubs are too harsh and drying to the skin. There is a need in the market for solutions that deliver both antimicrobial efficacy and gentleness. Many disinfectant hand rubs and sprays use high levels (>70%) of alcohol in order to deliver disinfectant properties and rapid evaporation. These high levels of ethanol dry out the skin with frequent use. Ethanol content of 40% is generally sufficient to achieve quick evaporation, but too low to provide proper disinfection of the hands. However, when combined with lactic acid, 40% ethanol will eliminate germs, evaporate quickly and have a milder effect on the skin. Only eight different BPR type 1 products are registered today. Of those eight, only a few are safe, natural biocidal ingredients available for producing disinfectant hand soaps and gels, and even fewer are both effective and mild to the skin. Lactic acid is a natural, safe and effective PT1 registered biocide that enables the creation of lower-pH hand soaps and gels (pH 3 – 4.5) offering safety, mildness and antimicrobial efficacy without the use of aggressive biocides. This presentation looks at options for formulating products that help consumers protect their health without harshness to their skin.
12:00 - 12:30
CELLULON™ Fermentation Derived Cellulose – Towards Sustainable, Stable Liquid Laundry Detergents and other Homecare Products
Alain Phyfferoen, CP Kelco UK Ltd.
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents The trend to develop products using sustainable raw materials continues to gain momentum in home and personal care applications. This presents the challenge of finding suitable ingredients and developing formulations that meet these demands and yet still provide the performance and experience the consumer expects. Furthermore, the potential introduction of regulations around synthetic polymers and increasing consumer pressure to reduce environmental impact of household products amplifies these formulation challenges. In meeting these challenges, formulators may have to consider many alternative raw materials which may not remain homogeneously distributed and require stabilization. For example, in liquid laundry detergents, trying to use more renewable and sustainable materials may require the suspension and stabilization of alternative decorative materials, opacifiers and active materials, and using naturally derived solutions to achieve this has previously been problematic. This is especially difficult in highly concentrated surfactant systems without adversely affecting the viscosity and pour properties of the product. A particular challenge is the issue around opacifiers in detergents; current opacifier technologies are essentially self-stabilizing, but alternative opacifiers often require some mechanism to stabilize them and keep homogeneously distributed. This presentation will discuss how CELLULON™ Fermentation Derived Cellulose (FDC) technology can help meet these challenges. FDC is a unique, sustainable and pure form of cellulose produced by the fermentation of corn-syrup based media with the bacterium Komagataeibacter xylinus. It is a pure cellulose, chemically identical to plant-derived cellulose, but FDC fibers are produced as a 3-dimensional, highly reticulated net-like structure, giving a far higher surface area by weight ratio. This net-like structure allows the FDC to create a true yield value at low concentrations in formulations containing surfactants, even with little or no water, and provide reliable stabilization of components with minimal or no impact on the finished product’s viscosity and dispersibility.
During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, SEPAWA® e.V. organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations