Date: Wednesday, 28 October 2020 Time: 08:30 - 18:00 Location: Foyer 1 Date: Thursday, 29 October 2020 Time: 08:30 - 18:00 Location: Foyer 1 Date: Friday, 30 October 2020 Time: 08:30 - 12:30 Location: Foyer 1

Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Laboratory Among the known ionic liquids, a relatively particularly interesting group are ionic liquids with surface activity. Broad interest in these compounds results from their unique structure, which allows them for facile adsorption on water-air interface. The ion responsible for surface properties consists of both hydrophilic and hydrophobic fragments. However, increasing the surface activity part is usually caused by the added suitable counter ion. Although the numerous surface active ionic liquids are known, a newer compounds characterized by more beneficial properties, which may be used in the various branches of industry, are constantly being searched for. Surface active ionic liquids may be used in medicine as a part of a system of supplying pharmaceuticals or in agriculture to neutralize weeds. The aim of this study was to investigate the surface activity in the aquatic environment of a new type of compound. Surface tension for alkyldimethylammonium 4-chloro-2-methylphenoxyacetates was determined using the shape drop method. This method was calculated by analyzing the profile of the drop according to the Laplace equation. For confirmation surface activity were investigated parameters like surface tension (γCMC), critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and efficiency of surface adsorption on an air–water interface (pC20). Also wettability of alkyldimethylammonium 4-chloro-2-methylphenoxyacetates were measured using the contact angle (CA). Wettability measurements were carried out on different surfaces to determine the correlation between the surfactants and the wetted surface area. The presented studies showed significant surface activity alkyldimethylammonium 4-chloro-2-methylphenoxyacetates. Moreover, it has been proved that with prolongation of alkyl chain the surface activity of herbicide ionic liquids increased.

Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents The production of automatic dishwasher (ADW) detergents imposes several challenges across the value chain. It starts with innovation as the handling of new actives like surfactants, due to its challenging viscosity, prevents the market success. Consequently, often the dilution in water and/ or other organic solvents is required, which limits the sustainability aspects. The negative environmental footprint and higher cost, due to permanent heating during storage and transportation, are not to neglect too.   Hydromagnesite (HM) is a naturally occurring magnesium mineral, synthesized in the form of platelet-shaped crystals. The extraordinary porosity of the mineral offers a loading capacity up to 60% actives content with quick release of even highly viscous or solid ingredients, such as anionic, cationic or non-ionic surfactants. In addition, Hydromagnesite acts as sequestrant agent by actively scavenging Ca2+ ions via the ion-equilibrium, reducing the calcium hardness of water by up to 100 %. This multifunctionality makes hydromagnesite unique for ADW applications. It combines superior carrier properties for actives with remarkable calcium scavenging characteristics. This allows partially replacing costly organic complexing agents such as Methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA). The corresponding trials were conducted in order to evaluate the impact of PHM in cleaning, drying and rinse-off performance. The formulations, comprising of 3% surfactant loaded on 3 % PHM carrier and correspondingly reduced the MGDA content, were compared to a commercially available benchmark. Remarkably, the mineral significantly improves the drying performance, particularly on plastics, while maintaining comparable cleaning and rinse-off. The reduction of costly MGDA contributes to the overall cost savings by simultaneously improving handling and logistics throughout the value chain. Additionally, the decrease of solvents and organics in the formulation improves the sustainability profile and boosts innovation. This breakthrough technology, due to its added value, is expected to influence profoundly the future composition of tabs and powder ADW formulations.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The skin is the humans largest organ that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes here referred to as the skin microbiome are essential to skin physiology and immunity. The main focus on skin microbiome analysis in the recent years has been on new analysing techniques. Every analysis depends on the sampling method that is used to collect the microorganisms from the skin surface. This study presents the differences in skin microbiota data for samples taken by three different sampling methods: Swabs with sample buffer, D-Squames®, and Lipbarvis® technology. The sampling was carried out at the volar forearm, and to ensure comparability the samples were collected right next to each other. Swabbing of the skin surface with a wet cotton swab is the most common method. D-Squames®, a glue-adhesive film on a foil, were pressed onto the skin surface and removed after 2 minutes. Lipbarvis® technology, a liquid glue and carrier system, was applied onto the skin surface and removed after hardening (4 minutes). D-Squames® bind microorganisms on the skin surface and remove them together with a non-continuous corneocyte layer. Lipbarvis® technology collects the first four skin layers with all microorganisms onto and between all corneocytes. After sampling of the microorganisms from the skin surface, they were preprocessed for the final investigation. A molecular method for microbiome analysis was used to demonstrate qualitative differences in the composition of the analysed microbial communities.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Flaky scalp is surely among the most stubborn and frustrating skin conditions. Yet, whatever the causes - seasonal changes, stress, pollution, anxiety, addiction to squeaky cleansing routines… - it always comes down to dysbiosis in the fragile ecosystem of the scalp. Conventional anti-dandruff products in the cosmetic market can be characterised by the use of three common ingredients: zinc pyrithione, climbazole and piroctone-olamine. All three actives are based on a primary anti-fungal effect against dandruff causing yeast Malassezia and have been used in the personal care market for decades. Besides a few multifunctionals, no major anti-dandruff active has been launched recently. From the inventor and leading supplier of one of these three benchmark anti-dandruff actives (climbazole) the presentation will  demonstrate the development of a novel, natural derived, anti-dandruff technology with an innovative mode of action. Comprehensive test results on anti-dandruff efficacy comparable to conventional actives will be demonstrated. The new green molecule´s activity relies on Malassezia´s natural dependence on sebum lipids. It “tricks the yeast” thanks to its similar chemical structure: Malassezia’s enzymes cleave the molecule to release the actual active that will down regulate Malassezia activity. This leads to a reduction of dandruff, scalp redness and itching. The new molecule complies with the requirements of ISO 16128 for a natural origin index of 1. Furthermore the presentation will include experiments on formulation effects and advantages in skin feel. 

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives In the last years, trends from the food industry, such as the usage of natural, plant-based products gained in importance  for the cosmetic and personal care industry. More and more personal care companies are demanding raw materials and support in order to be able to use natural ingredients. In the past twenty years, the food and beverage industry has substituted the majority of its artificially colored product formulations by naturally colored alternatives. These changes were in some cases challenging and gaining deep knowledge about product behavior, especially stability in various matrices, was one of the most challenging parts. The main representatives of the natural colors and coloring concentrates used in the food and beverage industry are based on the pigment classes of anthocyanins, betalains, and carotenoids et cetera. Natural colors offer characteristic properties, preventing an universal use in different matrices. One major criteria is their stability which should be tested individually for different product groups. Furthermore, innovative technologies and formulations of natural colors can contribute to their use in cosmetics and personal care products. Nevertheless, the use of natural ingredients is particularly interesting because such ingredients are sustainable and renewable in many cases.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Assessment of skin sensitization potential is mandatory for any ingredient dedicated to topical applications. Since the ban on animal testing, a battery of in vitro tests covering the key steps of the Adverse Outcome Pathway for skin sensitization is recommended.  From this perspective, combinations of different in vitro models were investigated with a two-fold goal:  - Develop and validate a testing strategy suitable for “challenging” ingredients (i.e. poorly water-soluble, surfactants, complex substances)  - Explore the applicability of the selected strategy to other ingredients,  focusing on market demand for bio-based ingredients, obtained by sustainable manufacturing processes. Three validated methods were used: OECD 442C (Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay),  442D (ARE-Nrf2 Luciferase Test Method- Keratinosens), 442E (human Cell Line Activation Test h-CLAT) and the Sens-Is assay, currently in the work plan of the OECD.  The results demonstrated different capability of the models to discriminate sensitizers from non-sensitizers. Therefore, a new sequential strategy was set up combining 1 to 3 models (Sens-Is, h‑CLAT and KeratinoSens) with Sens-Is as a starting test. This new testing strategy reached 88% accuracy with a minimum risk of a false negative conclusion. In a second step, the strategy was experimented on diverse ingredients categories, derived from green chemistry or plant extraction: emulsifier, emollient, texturizing agent, active ingredient, fragrance. The results on known natural sensitizers confirmed the reliability of the testing strategy and led to adoption of this approach in current development projects:  for new ingredients candidates, positive answers prompted to discard them while negative answers allowed to move to final safety evaluation on human volunteers.  Based on overall experience, the testing strategy was revealed as a useful tool to screen ingredients in the early development stage as well as to identify hazards for human health.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care, Hair Care Consumers with oily hair and scalp have to wash their hair every day due to excess of sebum, dirty appearance and scalp discomfort. Indeed, 26% of global consumers has oily scalp and 72% reported greasy hair. These consumers are looking for a shampoo. Stress, pollution, UV rays, diet but also harsh treatments trigger a common reaction sequence in the scalp involving sebum over-secretion. Experiments on primary human sebocytes and modulation of gene expression allowed the elucidation of the mechanism of action of sebum over production. We used an original screening ex vivo test with the culture of microdissected sebaceous glands (SG) from human donors. The developed protocol of extraction and lipid analysis, allows to use the model as a highly predictive screening tool. We select the Tetraselmis suecica, a Mediterranean microalgae, significantly helps to control lipid production via modulation of COX-2 expression. We identify that Mannitol, naturally occurring polyol contained in the microalgae, is one of the ingredients that modulates the sebum production. In order to provide effective results, even in shampoo, it was developed this new active that is a combination of Tetraselmis suecica extract enhanced by Mannitol. The microalgae extract is sustainably produced by an eco-friendly Blue biotechnology process. The active is COSMOS approved. Two In vivo studies showed that this ingredient visibly reduces the accumulation of sebum on scalp in just 1 week. It reduces the appearance of oily hair (+66% of improvement) and 92% of volunteers have less greasy hair appearance just after 1 week. 80% of the volunteers perceived the use of this ingredient gives a long lasting clean sensation, allowing to wash hair every second day. Also, the ingredient was tested in hair fibers. It improves the hair luster, and protects the hair against damaging UV rays by decreasing the protein loss.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Topical sun protection by sunscreens has been around for over sixty years, originally invented for “tanning without sunburn”, as a famous advertisement had put it. Since then there has been an enormous development in UV filters with broader protection, sunscreen formulations with better acceptance and a variety of new formats such as sprays and sticks to make application easier. In spite of such positive developments, controversies on sunscreens increased over the last two decades, e.g. which wavelengths they should protect against, that UV filters could be absorbed and cause harm, and if sunscreens are effective at all in preventing skin cancer, or if they just block the production of Vitamin D in the skin. Such mixed messages undermine the benefits and the compliance of sunscreen use. What can be done?  This paper demonstrates how these challenges should be addressed and how current problems could be resolved. Brian Diffey proposed a risk assessment approach to sun protection. Two examples are: 1) efficacy and 2) safety of sunscreen.  1) What is the ideal protection profile?  The risk approach tells us that uniform protection over the whole UV range is required. On the other hand, there is not sufficient evidence to support IR protection.  2) Absorption of UV filters into the body is a safety concern.  Maximum use trials have established the kinetic behavior of several UV filters in the body. Considering their toxicological profile, the benefit risk ratio may still be favorable for most users. But this changes for special groups such as pregnant woman or nursing mothers. For such cases a warning label may be considered. It also means that the industry should refrain from using exaggerated cosmetic claims. Such a scientific and transparent risk management approach to sun protection will restore trust in sunscreen use. 

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Zinc salts are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions due to their anti-inflammatory and soothing effects on the skin. The aim of this work was to examine the zinc salts zinc ascorbate and zinc PCA for their antimicrobial effect in an OW emulsion without additional preservatives. The antimicrobial effect of the zinc salts was investigated using the microorganisms E. coli, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, C. albicans and A. brasiliensis. Based on the Cosmetics Regulation, Appendix V, the zinc salts were dosed so that a final concentration of 1 % zinc was present in an unpreserved cosmetic OW emulsion. In a first step, agar diffusion tests were carried out according to Pharmacopoea Europaea (2017). Preservation stress tests according to DIN EN ISO 11930: 2018, criterion B showed that for all microorganisms, the logarithmic reduction values required, were reached by zinc ascorbate and zinc PCA.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Styling and coloring hair are ways to express individuality. Such practices make use of chemical and thermal procedures that result in aggressions to hair’s fiber structure. Also, sun exposure, pollution and daily grooming can impart some degree of harm. Main damages comprise fragments, edges and raised cuticles; changes in hair hydrophobicity – by removing the natural lipid layer as leaving negatively charged protein residues onto surface –; and even changes in the cortex structure by protein loss. The result is a shift in perception of macroscopic attributes in which hair looks dry, coarse, dull and brittle. A new solution based on a combination of cationic polymers and nonionic surfactants results not only on hair fiber repairing but also on protection from further harms. The contact angle of human hair tresses previously damaged by bleaching has increased from 41° up to 59° after a single application of the conditioning booster. Scanning electron micrographs taken after chemical and mechanical stresses demonstrate relevant reduction in the damaged area with evident cuticle sealing. The quantification of protein loss showed 2.5 times more protein retention in treated tresses when compared to untreated ones. Evaluation of mechanical resistance to abrasion showed stronger treated tresses with 4 times less breakages. The improvement of hair micro- and macroscopic attributes evidenced through a series of instrumental methods and validated by trained and untrained sensory panel can be translated into hair restoration to shine, easy to comb, smoothness and softness benefits to name a few. Accordingly, this new solution allows the development of products for damaged hair repair and protection addressing a consumer need as boosting not only hair conditioning but also self-esteem.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care UV filters are the key ingredients of sunscreens. A further prerequisite for good performance of these products is the vehicle, which is needed to distribute the UV filters as uniform as possible on the human skin. As vehicles cosmetic formulations such as creams, lotions, sprays, and gels may serve. Some of the most efficient UV-absorbers for sunscreens are solid at ambient temperature and have to be dissolved in the oil phase of the vehicle. The solubility of such oil-soluble UV-absorbers can be a limiting factor when aiming for high protection against UV-radiation. In order to measure reliable solubilities, we assess the equilibrium state between sediment and saturated solution by following a protocol at a temperature of 25°C. However, in the preparation of sunscreen formulations the oil phase is often heated to higher temperatures, which may lead to oversaturated UV absorber concentrations after cooling. We therefore investigated experimentally the crystallization behavior of four different oil-soluble UV-absorbers and found striking differences in the crystallization velocities. Those can be explained by quantum-chemical calculations based on density functional theory (DFT) and the conductor-like screening model (COSMO). In addition to this kinetic investigation, optimizations of equilibrium solubilities were studied in binary oil mixtures by varying the fractions of the two components, where bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine served as a model UV-absorber system. The experimentally determined solubilities revealed synergistic effects for a number of binary oil mixtures, and these results were in good agreement with theoretical calculations based on DFT theory and the COSMO-RS model. Our results indicate, that such calculations may serve in future to better understand and predict the solubility behavior of UV-absorbers in sunscreens.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Using biological processes to produce cosmetic ingredients has become increasingly popular. Biology can be more selective than chemistry and can be tuned to result in a pure compound. This talk will take a look at how a multistep chemical synthesis can be replaced by a single step fermentation to make 1,3-butylene glycol via a biological pathway. Many everyday products, from plastics to personal care, are derived from fossil fuels and manufactured using complex chemical synthesis steps. However, there has recently been a strong recent trend towards sustainability and a strong desire to reduce our dependency on fossil fuels. Biotechnology enables this transition towards sustainability in unique and remarkable ways: with biology, we can utilize carbon from plants to make the exact same chemical compounds and consumer products. And in many cases, biology can be more selective than chemistry, facilitating stereochemically pure compounds. 1,3-butylene glycol is widely-used in both personal care (sunscreen, moisturizers) and industrial applications (polymers, plasticizers). This specialty chemical has historically been produced through a multistep chemical synthesis process, from petroleum-derived ethylene through acetaldehyde, a toxic chemical that is a known carcinogen, and finally to a racemic mixture of 1,3-butylene glycol. Given the issues associated with fossil fuel feedstocks, alternative routes from renewable sources or avoiding acetaldehyde have been highly sought after.

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Objective. This study aims to prove the added value brought by a production process based on circular economy model: re-valorization of agro-food by-products to develop performing cosmetic ingredients. Methods. Mediterranean renewable sources par excellence are involved in an integrated supply chain, completely controlled and traceable, to design out innovation. Three different technologies based on (i) selection of specific non-edible olive fractions, (ii) biologically active waters from Mediterranean fruits, (iii) cardoon seeds for biodegradable esters, are here investigated. Results. The selective research on olive benefits to reach specific cosmetic applications are pursued by isolating purified non-edible fractions through 100% soft green manufacturing process. Resulted purity allows formulators to work with complete freedom in choosing natural ingredients such as: (i) gelling and texturing capacity, (ii) actives enhancer and skin feel, (iii) primary emulsifiers. A line of fruit-derived waters to replace demineralized water is developed through the valorization of waters coming out from juice production. In-vitro more biological benefits (cellular vitality, protection vs external aggression, modulation of inflammation) than demineralized or distillated waters are demonstrated. An industrial plant, completely converted to “green chemistry” allows the creation of high-purity Pelargonic acid (above 98%) from cardoon seed extract, by local cultivar in marginal lands to create a wide range of biodegradable emollients with exceptional touch and outstanding properties (solubilization and dispersion of UV filters and pigments). Biodegradability tested as per OECD 301B method Conclusion. Rising interest towards natural beauty, should take into consideration the related impact on Environment of involved ingredients. Urgent necessity to rethink the methods also understanding the potential end-of-life behavior in the Planet. The present work demonstrates that circular economy adapted to cosmetics opens the possibility to minimize the impact: non-competition with food supplies or drinkable water assure to keep them precious for human kind and to create value for the industry.

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Patent Claims for Cosmetic Compositions Nowadays, for chemical inventions substance protection for new chemical compounds is established in most countries. Particularly in Germany this was not the case for a long time. In earlier times, a patent was granted in Germany only for the respective process for the production of a chemical compound. The substance as such could be protected only indirectly as the immediate product of the process. Today's cosmetic products are generally not single compounds, but (partly complex) mixtures of substances, which acquire their special properties only by the interaction of two or more components. They are often the result of extensive and costly research and development work. This makes it all the more important to know that cosmetic formulations in the form of such combinations or mixtures can also be patented. This is also possible if the individual components of the formulation were all already known. But beware: patentability is not the same as the right to exercise the invention. If a legally valid patent has been previously granted to a third party on one of the components of the product, the marketing of the product may result in a direct patent infringement. Furthermore, the sale of a patent-free component of such a combination or mixture may also constitute a patent infringement. If a patent has been granted on a compound in the form of one of the aforementioned mixtures, caution is required in order not to commit an indirect patent infringement. Thus, any third party is prohibited from offering or supplying an essential component of the protected compound for use therein without the consent of the patentee. Such an unlawful act can already be the publication of product information for a substance, from which the suitability for use in the protected product can be taken.

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Sustainability Standards The aim of the B2B standard "Sustainable Business" of the Center for Sustainable Leadership at the University of Witten / Herdecke is to support companies since 2013 in the development of an integrated management system in order to make an active and measurable contribution to sustainable change in business and society. It is based on national and international sustainability requirements such as the DNK, GRI, SDGs and ISO. The requirements set out in the ZNU standard are divided into two parts: (1) Sustainable management ("How do you design sustainable corporate governance?") And (2) Measures in the three pillars of sustainability ecology, economy and social issues ("What are you doing specifically in the fields of action?”) The standard calls for the analysis of sustainable activities along the value chain and promotes credible sustainability communication: https://www.znu-standard.com/znu-standard/?L=1. The standard was originally developed for manufacturers in the food industry, but has now also been applied by cosmetics manufacturers and food service providers. The ZNU standard is the only practice-proven and implemented standard for sustainable business in Germany, which in addition to the three dimensions of environment, economy and social issues also integrates sustainable corporate management and has to be certified by independent third parties. After successful certification, the applicant companies receive a certificate for three years, their progress is reassessed by two subsequent audits. All materials are available in German and English.