Date: Wednesday, 25 October 20232 - Friday, 27 October 2023 Location: Foyer 1st floor

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Social Sustainability While consumers have long been aware of the potential negative impact that biocidal or chemical agents, pollution and other external factors can have on skin health, a growing number of them are coming to understand more about the role of the skin's microbiome in long-term health and damage protection. This awareness is driving growth in a newer category of products designed to preserve both shelf life and the viability of beneficial bacteria in skin microbiota.    Commonly used preservatives such as isothiazolinones and actives like quats tend to create imbalance in the skin microbiome, leading to adverse impacts on skin health and aesthetical appearance. They either inhibit all types of microorganisms, including highly important commensal bacteria, or they fail to deliver an adequate preservative effect when used at dosage levels allowed by regulatory limitations. What is needed are solutions that respect and help maintain the microbiological balance that is natural to the skin's environment.    Lactic acid and lactates, like those produced by Corbion via the fermentation of plant-based substrates, are among the naturally occurring components of skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which help maintain skin health and hydration.     This presentation takes a look at the role lactic acid plays in a new patent-pending preservation system designed to help formulators create products that are biobased, effective and supportive of a healthy, balanced skin microbiome. Included will be test data regarding various microbiome organisms and associated growth profiles, in addition to insights into the efficacy of lactic acid as part of a novel preservative system. The new system offers formulators the opportunity to create products with higher pH levels (up to pH = 8) that preserve skin's natural microbiological equilibrium. Practical examples regarding use in specific applications – as well as informed perspectives on formulation – will be presented and discussed.

Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT : bringing the benefits of soil release polymers for natural laundry composition We introduce the natural version of our leading liquid soil release polymer, Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. Featuring the same benefits and specifications as Repel-O-Tex® Crystal, Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT is more than 70% derived from natural origin. This allows formulators of green and natural liquid laundry to introduce the performance benefits of soil release polymers into their formula while keeping to their high standards of naturality and sustainability. Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT not only maintains a high naturality level, it also allows making green laundry formula greener by improving performances of liquid laundry, resulting in lower downstream environmental impact of laundry products. In this presentation, we will showcase the diverse array of benefits provided by Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. We will show how our natural soil release polymer allows extending clothes lifetime by maintaining whiteness and controlling long term malodor development. We will also demonstrate improved cold water cleaning performances of liquid laundry supplemented with Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. We will present various formulations incorporating Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. These include high-naturality formulas specifically designed to target net-zero CO2 footprints, empowering formulators to create laundry products that go beyond expectations in terms of both performance and sustainability. Notably, these formulations offer the possibility of reducing detergent dosage while maintaining excellent cleaning performance, leading to even greater environmental sustainability.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care Formulating cleansers addressing consumer demand for cleansing routines that deliver skin and hair health benefits while fulfilling their desire to live more sustainably is challenging. During this presentation, we will highlight Solvay's toolbox of technologies and formulation solutions that can help formulators to design gentle and effective cleansers with appealing aesthetics and foaming properties while also delivering wellness benefits to hair and/or skin and helping preserve the environment.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Polycare® Heat Therapy is a non-ecotoxic double-derivatized cationic guar suitable for transparent formulation which protects hair from extreme temperatures. By forming an invisible and imperceptible barrier on hair surface, this bio-based active helps to maintain hair physical and sensory qualities. During this presentation, we will present Polycare® Heat Therapy ingredient, which brings softness to the hair with a nude feel in addition of heat protection. It provides discipline to hair, fastens the straightening and provides good conditioning for easier detangling. It doesn't leave hair sticky or oily. It keeps hair soft and healthy over repeated use of a flat or curl iron and hairdryer. Combined with vegetable oils and ester oils, it can even address over-processed hair. Less exposed and more protected and healthier hair for a stress-free style !

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Gravityl™ is a bio-fractionated extract of the red macro-algae Gigartina stellata. Obtained from an eco-friendly and sustainable process, this extract has been demonstrated to improve skin biomechanical properties. The biological evaluation of Gravityl™ demonstrates it counteracts the effects of gravity and ageing on the skin matrix organisation, ending up with clinical benefits in terms of skin firmness, elasticity and reshaping. Firstly, in vitro evaluations demonstrated a significant increase of collagen I production and an improvement of the expression of a whole set of genes involved in the dermis structure. In addition, ex vivo experiments demonstrated that Gravityl™ significantly restores the production of key proteins essential for the elastic fibres organisation and dermis structure. Secondly, bi-photonic microscopy revealed that in young skin, matrix fibres are linked together in all directions, conferring a strong capacity to resist deformation. Ageing induces a transition caused by loss of tensile strength, fibres tend to be oriented in a single direction, creating a lack of tonicity. Our results demonstrated that Gravityl™ restores a multidirectional collagen fibres orientation in mature skins. AFM results confirmed the skin matrix reorganisation with a significant improvement of skin suppleness (+65%). Finally, the clinical studies confirm the neosynthesis of collagen fibres (density increased by +4,2%), which has also been visualised with LC-OCT. Skin firmness is improved by +7,0% and skin elasticity by +8,0%, conferring a visible reduction of the double chin (-27mm) in one month. By increasing the production of essential skin matrix fibres and scaffolding proteins, this active restores the multidirectional scaffolding of collagen and elastic fibres, typical of a younger skin. Mature skin then recovers their biomechanical properties. This new strategy to improve skin elasticity and firmness offers a new promising approach for well-ageing active ingredients, with a targeted activity on the lower half of the face.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Over the past few years, many countries around the world have introduced restrictions on the use of microplastics in various applications, because of their potential harmful effects to the environment and living organisms. This has led to promotions of research and development of sustainable replacements for plastic microbeads in cosmetic products. In partnership with the innovative Canadian company Anomera, Croda has developed ChromaPurTM CV2 and ChromaPurTM CV7 as sustainable and functional alternatives to microbeads, and they are favourably contributing to the change of the beauty industry. Derived from upcycled black spruce, made from an environmentally friendly and patented process, the new ingredients are also 100% natural, vegan suitable, readily biodegradable, and COSMOS approved. While maintained in native cellulose type 1 that occurs in nature, ChromaPurTM CV2 and CV7 have a unique surface structure and morphology that allows the two cellulose powders to offer exceptional sensory and optical benefits, with similar properties to microplastic ingredients in Skin and Colour Cosmetic applications. ChromaPurTM CV2 and CV7 provide an alternative to microbeads and offer consumers the possibility to have a positive impact on the environment, while helping to tackle the plastic pollution.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Marine exopolysaccharides (EPS) and their Cosmetic applications P.Y. Morvan (1), B. Thollas (2), A. Courtois (2), R. Vallée (1)   Key words: EPS, moisturizing, mattifying, soothing, Marine ExoPolySaccharides, also known as EPS, are natural polymers with a high molecular size, mainly composed of sugars. They are produced and secreted by microorganisms directly in their environment, for protection, nutrition, and adhesion. In a scientific program, more than 500 marine microorganisms were isolated from different marine biotopes in Brittany coasts. Some of them are able to produce EPS. They are characterized and registered at Pasteur Institute. They are cultivated in bioreactor where they produce their unique EPS. The culture in reactor associated to a purification system allows controlling the EPS synthesis, with a high reproducibility, and a high purity. Each microorganism produce a unique EPS with its specific composition. EPS have no earth equivalent. They are characterized by their chain of sugars (such as glucose, galactose, mannose, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, N-acetyl glucosamine) but also by their possible decoration by amino acids (Ala, Ser) or by chemical groups (acetate, lactate, sulfate) that give them a unique structure and a unique activity. Thanks to their unique structure, they have their own surface properties, in term of touch, softness, mattifying or moisturizing activities. Moreover, they could have cellular recognition properties according to sugar receptors on the target cells given them antifouling activities, anti-microbial effects, and soothing activity. Most of them have anti-inflammatory effect (reduction of PGE2, IL1a, IL6, TNFa or IL8 production) and can stimulate extracellular matrix production (collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid). Marine EPS can be use in their native high size but could also be used after partial depolymerisation giving them a new activity. This depolymerisation can be obtained with enzymatic, acidic or thermic action such as the patented HTAC technology using supercritical fluids.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Many ionic surfactants with wide applications in personal-care and house-hold detergency show limited water solubility at lower temperatures (Krafft point). This drawback can be overcome by using mixed solutions, where the ionic surfactant is incorporated in mixed micelles with another surfactant, which is soluble at lower temperatures [1]. The solubility and electrolytic conductivity for a binary surfactant mixture of anionic methyl ester sulfonates (MES) with nonionic (alkyl polyglucoside and alkyl polyoxyethylene ether) or anionic surfactants (sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 ethoxy groups -SLES-2EO) at 5°C during long-term storage were measured. Phase diagrams were established; a general theoretical model for their explanation was developed and checked experimentally. The binary and ternary phase diagrams for studied surfactant mixtures include phase domains: mixed micelles; micelles+crystallites; crystallites, and molecular solution. The results could be used to increase the range of applicability of MES–surfactants with relatively high Krafft temperature, but with various useful properties such as excellent biodegradability and skin compatibility; stability in hard water; good wetting and cleaning performance. References [1] K.D. Danov, R.D. Stanimirova, P.A. Kralchevsky, T.G. Slavova, V.I. Yavrukova, Y.W. Ung, E. Tan, H. Xu, J.T. Petkov, J. Colloid Interf. Sci. 601 (2021) 474–485.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Introduction Blue light pollution refers to artificial blue light exposure associated with a hyper-connected lifestyle. The growing use of electronic devices in our daily life contributes to the premature aging as a part of the “3C Aging” caused by cities (air pollution), computers (blue light) and communications (wireless radiations). Interestingly, the skin can sense blue light through opsins, a family of light-sensitive receptors initially discovered in the retina. Colorimetric and clinical assessments on healthy volunteers showed a clear hyperpigmentation caused by the 415-nm irradiation in a dose dependent manner, in various ethnic type of skin (both type III and IV subjects). Method In the present study, we have used a proprietary bioengineered 3D model of Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE) containing keratinocytes and melanocytes to study the impact of blue light pollution on skin hyperpigmentation. Using bioinformatics, a model of the skin pigmentation gene network was designed, and microRNAs predicted to potentially modulate these genes were determined. We have finally used our validated 3D pigmented skin model to assess the beneficial effects of a premium Theobroma cocoa extract. Results Differences in skin morphology and melanin level were first evidenced in RHPE phototype III compared to RHPE phototype V (Fitzpatrick scale). Then, an increase of melanin production and tyrosinase expression were observed after a 415 nm blue light irradiation on the RHPE phototype III. Besides, an increased level of MITF was observed concomitantly with a decreased level of several microRNAs of interest. Finally, in each case, the application of a premium Theobroma cocoa extract has reversed the deleterious effects of blue light irradiation. Conclusion To conclude, we have successfully developed a bioengineered 3D pigmented skin model responsive to blue light, showing modulation of the main biological pathways involved in melanogenesis. 

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Insect Repellent Intrusive species such as mosquitoes, biting flies, horseflies and ticks start to become active as soon as the weather warms up – much to the annoyance of humans and animals alike. Their painful bites and stings itch and can become inflamed or cause allergic reactions. These pests can even transmit diseases such as malaria and dengue fever or the Zika virus. The WHO estimates that 80% of world population in more than 129 countries are at risk to be conducted with diseases caused by insect bites. Vector-borne diseases is responsible for > 17% of all infectious diseases, and causing >700,000 deaths per year. And the ongoing warming of the earth induced by climate change has already started to effect the transmission and progressing spread of vector-borne diseases. However, most vector-borne diseases are preventable through community mobilization and protective measures.   Saltidin®, also known as Icaridin or Picaridin, as active ingredient can be safely and daily used in insect repellents, which can mitigate the risk of infectious diseases. Saltidin® is not just a simple active ingredient that could only provide effective protection against the wide range of mosquitoes and ticks, but insect repellents containing Saltidin® are also very gentle and pleasant on the skin. Furthermore, Saltidin® is very easy to formulate. This gives the opportunity to create a large variety of repellent products to match the preferences and habits of every individual consumer. While focusing on Modern Insect Repellents with such an outstanding active ingredient, we make it possible to create more likeable repellents to apply and thus supporting the prevention of vector-borne diseases. Learn more about the excellent active ingredient Saltidin® at our booth A174 – 177 and protect what you love!

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The generation of odour on various sites of the human body, is mainly caused by microbial transformation of odourless natural skin secretions into volatile odorous molecules. Volatile fatty acids (VFAs such as 3M2H and HMHA), along with thioalcohols and 16-androstene steroids, are causal molecules synthesised by skin bacteria of axillary malodour. Several tests are proceeded to evaluate Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract (ZBFE): astringency, Corynebacterium xerosis lipase inhibitory test, bacterial cytotoxicity is evaluated on Staphylococcus epidermis ATCC 12228 and Corynebacterium xerosis ATCC 373. A sniff test on axillary areas of human volunteers is carried on over an 8H journey against placebo. ZBFE shows a +295% more astringent capacity than tannic red wine. It has no inhibitory properties on S.epidermidis and C.xerosis growth at normal usage level. At 3% it inhibits by -181% lipase from C.xerosis decreasing triglycerides hydrolysis into odoriferous compounds. Clinical expert self-evaluation of armpit odour after a single application of a roll-on formulation containing 3% ZBFE shows a decrease by -57,1% of the odour after 8H compared to placebo. ZBFE is a full body care product with a microbiota friendly action through inhibition of bacterial enzyme that generate odoriferous compounds and with astringent, protective, hydrating, and antioxidant properties.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives The rising demand for sustainable products and raw materials has led Worlée-Chemie to develop WorléeMicromer Eco, a new range of innovative liquid acrylic film formers derived from natural and renewable resources. These film formers exhibit outstanding durability and application properties. Leveraging state-of-the-art technology, these products are formulated without any critical ingredients, aligning with various Clean Beauty standards. Specifically, they are free from PEG and sulfate surfactants and comply with regulations in China. In addition, the products are of course vegan, cruelty-free and GMO-free. With a natural origin content exceeding 80%, these film formers find applications in diverse decorative cosmetic products such as eyeliners, browliners, mascaras, and foundations. The product line consists of three novel film formers: an emulsion polymer, a water-based solution polymer, and an anhydrous solution polymer dissolved in a volatile organic solvent, which is also based on renewable raw materials. Notably, the acrylates used in these formulations contain over 50% natural-origin monomers. Application tests have demonstrated that these sustainable acrylate film formers exhibit exceptional film-forming properties, ensuring long-lasting and uniform coverage. Additionally, they offer good adhesion to the skin, which is crucial for enhancing the shelf life of decorative cosmetic products.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care Foaming is a complex phenomenon in surfactant-containing liquids and plays a crucial role in the evaluation of cosmetic products by consumers. To translate these subjective and difficult-to-quantify impressions into numerical values, extensive panel tests are required. Efficient development and evaluation of new products necessitate modern foam analysis methods that can characterize foam based on physical properties such as volume and structural characteristics like bubble size and distribution. A significant challenge lies in foam generation, as it influences foam properties. To establish a correlation between the tactile properties of foam from panel tests and those derived from physical measurements, it is essential to not only ensure reproducible foam generation but also vary the test and sample parameters to use similar foams in both evaluations. This study aims to exemplify the analysis possibilities provided by the SITA FoamTester and demonstrate how varying the test parameters can result in different foams from the same samples. The differences will be highlighted through various analyses of foam structure images, their temporal development, and height dependence. The new capabilities of the PC Software SITA FoamLab facilitate a faster and more comprehensive exploration of this correlation, enabling the desired link between panel tests and foam analysis.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Proteome is sensitive to exposome. When submitted to either intrinsic (chronological aging) or extrinsic (solar irradiation, pollution, …) stressors, the proteome will accumulate damage and eventually lead the skin to a loss of functionality and radiance. Proteome protection is ensured by chaperone proteins which supervise proper folding of “client” proteins and bind to misfolded proteins to prevent irreversible aggregation. By enhancing chaperones, we can reinforce proteome integrity which will result in a healthy-looking skin (luminous, radiant, and bright). Small Heat Shock proteins - including HSP27 and CRYAB - are molecular chaperones that are involved in various biological processes. This class of heat shock proteins is especially interesting as described to be part of the early response to stress events. To investigate the impact of Supervisome™ EPH on different types of stress, an ex vivo experiment was carried out applying diesel particles to emulate environmental stress as an integral part of exposome. Samples were taken for analysis of apoptotic state of the tissue by TUNEL assay and assessment of protein carbonylation as a marker for irreversible oxidative protein damage in cells. This study demonstrates that Supervisome™ EPH exhibits protection against exposome stress caused by pollution by counteracting the apoptotic effects induced by the pollution treatment​. Finally, an in vivo​ study conducted on Caucasian volunteers having dull skin was able to show a visible increase of facial luminosity, radiance and an overall brightening of skin tone. Supervisome™ EPH is a 100% natural and readily biodegradable solution based on organic yarrow. This easy-to-use water-soluble powder can achieve radiant complexion ​ without imparting any color or odor to finished formulation. All these assets make Supervisome™ EPH the perfect solution for multiple skin care applications focusing on pigmentation, radiance and protection of skin health and skin tone.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care In the increasingly challenging field of sunscreen development natural-based SPF boosters play an important role of optimizing the formulations. They can help to answer the demands for: high SPF products more sustainable sunscreens clean & safe formulations Designed for maximized UV protection SymEffect™ UV significantly enhances the SPF of sun care products. Its efficacy was demonstrated in O/W as well as W/O emulsions containing mineral or organic UV filters proven in-vivo. Additionally, the balance between UVA and UVB absorbance of the initial sunscreen formulations is kept on the same level. SymEffect™ UV is based on 100% renewable raw materials, is vegan suitable and thus improves the sustainability profile of sun care and daily UV protection products.

Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Preservatives The philosophy of minimalism “Do more with less” is challenging formulators increasingly to select ingredients that provide multiple benefits for their final cosmetic products. About 81% of consumers always check the ingredients of the products they buy. By that the industry strives to use less ingredients with more benefits to shorten the INCI, to reduce development times and inventory while having less impacts on environmental aspects. Symrise launched a technology that provides solutions to optimise the protection performance with multifunctional ingredients called Symshield®. The technology shows combination of barriers such as pH, chelating agents or water activity that allow formulators using less ingredients, lower concentration while optimising the protection and safety of cosmetics.

Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Other At a crossroads of performance, sustainability and care, Home Care is an ever-changing market where formulators’ must adapt to consumers’ expectations and the evolution of sustainability standards. Applicable to surface care, laundry and dishwashing, multifunctional ingredients bring multiple benefits to the formula: cleaning performance, product stabilization, sensory experience and product aesthetic. Cleaning performance is one of the main concerns of consumers, the degreasing power of multifunctionals is performed in comparison with surfactants well-known for their high efficacy: fatty alcohol ethoxylated. Multifunctional ingredients clearly demonstrate a cleaning performance improvement. Formula stabilization is also an important concern of formulators, antioxidant and enzyme stability tests are performed. Multifunctionals provide product stabilization by maintaining its integrity and performance overtime. In addition, they help to achieve a better sensory experience thanks to their foam volume and sensory enhancement compared to SLES/CAPB. Solubilization is also a main issue in the development of the formula to achieve an excellent product aesthetic. In comparison with non-ionic ethoxylated surfactants an improvement of the solubilization is observed. Multifunctional ingredients, thanks to their versatility and wide range of benefits, can replace several ingredients at once in the formula. They help to achieve a shorter ingredient list and meet the requirements of transparency and sustainability.

Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Production and Development The requirements for transparent sustainability information on detergents and cleaning agents are constantly increasing. Manufacturers are faced with the challenge of having to rely on information and data from the upstream and downstream stages of the value chain in order to be able to evaluate and assess their products. Important influencing factors here are, for example, raw materials and product packaging. In its own team and in cooperation with its partner AST, BÜFA has been working on innovative methods and solutions to enable greater transparency and sustainability. As a trader of chemical raw materials, BÜFA has faced the challenge of developing a method for calculating the company-specific product carbon footprint and having this validated by an independent third party,  compliant to ISO 14067. For example, the transparent description of used data sources, unambiguousness of data, inclusion of relevant emission sources and reproducibility were evaluated.  Now BÜFA can offer a solid database and provides the basis for evaluating recipes for detergents and cleaning agents and weighing up raw material alternatives. In a joint project with the company AST, a process for closed material cycles of hazardous goods packaging was developed over a period of 3 years. For the first time, recycled packaging with hazardous goods approval is possible. In close cooperation with various interfaces, a separate plant was developed to produce recycled granulate suitable for hazardous goods and a system for sorting hazardous goods canisters by type. So the use of new fossil raw materials can be reduced, which leads to an improved CO2 footprint. A significant amount of packaging waste is avoided. Through pre-compression of the canisters, additional CO2 can be saved through more efficient logistics of container recycling. This makes it possible to transport hazardous materials in sustainable packaging and  combine sustainability and high safety standards.

Date: Wednesday, 25 October 20232 - Friday, 27 October 2023 Location: Foyer 2nd Floor

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research We are currently encountering the issue of microplastics in many areas. Microplastics have been detected in soil, water, and even human blood. At the same time, many textiles consist of different plastics or at least a mixed fabric with a plastic content. Kelly et al. have shown that the amount of water used influences the release of microfibres; the more water used, the higher the number of microfibres released. Based on the methodology used by Kelly et al. we have taken a closer look at the factor chemistry of Sinner's circle. We looked at the influence of the amount of activated oxygen bleach released from sodium percarbonate and TAED on 100% polyester fabric. For this purpose, we added different amounts of sodium percarbonate to a commercially available bleach-free liquid detergent in the tergotometer based on the standard dosage according to IEC and determined the release of microfibre particles under constant washing conditions. The advantage of the tergotometer is that up to eight containers with a capacity of one litre of water can be used in parallel to investigate different washing parameters under the same environmental conditions. It has been shown that the number of microfibres released increases with increasing bleach concentration, but that a release of microfibres was also detectable without the addition of bleach to the washing process.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Stimuli-responsive polymers can change their properties, e.g., the water solubility, effectively and reversibly when a stimulus is applied. For water‑soluble polymers, pH and temperature are probably the best explored triggers to tune the solubility. Yet, switching the solubility via pH‑responsiveness is an invasive process, because acids or bases must be repeatedly added and removed.   Stimuli-responsive block copolymers are particularly interesting systems. Such amphiphilic responsive block copolymers, which contain a switchable hydrophobic and or hydrophilic block, can self‑organize in water into micelle-like structures with a hydrophobic core and a hydrophilic shell. The high stability of these structures enables their effective loading with hydrophobic active agents, such as emollients, fragrances, or repellents. When the hydrophobicity is switched, the amphiphilic character gets lost and the polymer micelle dissolves. Thus, the active agent can be precisely released. Light, alike temperature, is an advantageous stimulus due to its simple implementation and non‑invasive character. Therefore, we combine the thermo‑responsive properties of N-alkyl substituted acrylamides with photoactive azo moieties such as azobenzene or azopyrazole. The trans-cis photoisomerization of the azobenzene group reduces its hydrophobicity and has been used to increase the temperature of the lower critical solution temperature (LCST) phase transition after UV‑irradiation. The induced increase of the transition temperature is typically around 5°C or less. Yet, the effect of the azobenzene photoisomerization is still not fully understood, even a decrease of the transition temperature after UV-irradiation has occasionally been reported. However, these counter‑intuitive effects are generally even smaller. Now, we produced a series of copolymers, for which we observed a regular or counter-intuitive behavior after UV-irradiation depending on the azobenzene content. In specific cases, we achieved a decrease by almost 10°C. In our contribution we shall present the synthesis and characterization of new multi-responsive dye‑functionalized copolymers, and their photo modulated switching behavior in water.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Bio-based starting materials such as oleic acid and phenyl propanoides have received increased interest for monomer manufacturing because of limited availability of fossil resources. New epoxides were received in good yield in case of both bio-based substances. The epoxides can be cationically polymerized or react with methacrylic acid resulting in methacrylates.[1-4] In this work, isoeugenol was esterified with lauroyl chloride and epoxized resulting in epoxy isoeugenyl laurate in good yield. Oleic acid was esterified with methanol and epoxidized resulting in epoxy methyl oleate in very good yield. Reaction of epoxy isoeugenyl laurate with methacrylic acid resulted in a new methacrylate. Epoxy methyl oleate reacted with imidazole, and the resulting OH group was converted with methacrylic acid to give a further methacrylate. Viscosity measurements[5]showed Newtonian behavior in case of all monomers investigated. Viscosity is significantly higher for the bio-based methacrylates compared to bio-based epoxides, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, and lauryl methacrylate. The latter are examples for commercial monomers. Real-time FT-IR spectroscopic investigation[6] of both photoinduced cationic polymerization of bio-based epoxides and photoinduced free radical polymerization of methacrylates show differences in the polymerization kinetics. Higher limited conversion was found for the bio-based methacrylates compared to both phenoxyethyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate. The presence of longer alkyl substituents makes bio-based methacrylates interesting for miniemulsion polymerization. [1] W. Maaßen, S. Oelmann, D. Peter, W. Sowald, N. Willenbacher, M.A.R. Meier, Macromol. Chem. Phys. 2015, 216, 1609-1618. [2] S. Walther, V. Strehmel, Chemistry Select 2019, 4, 4679-4681. [3] B. Sanay, B. Strehmel, V. Strehmel, Prog. Org. Coat. 2021, 158, 106377. [4] M. Heinz, M. Kepkow, N. Theofel, B. Strehmel, V. Strehmel, Sustainable Chem. and Pharmacy 2022, 29, 100766. [5] The authors gratefully acknowledge SEPAWAâ e.V. for sponsoring the rheometer. [6] Q. Wang, S. Popov, V. Strehmel, J.S. Gutmann, B. Strehmel, Polym. Chem. 2023, 14, 116-125.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Block copolymers were synthesized via Atom Transfer Radical Polymerization from alkyl acrylate (AlA) and t-butyl acrylate and subsequent hydrolysis of the t-butyl acrylate to acrylic acid (AA). These amphiphilic block copolymers were systematically varied with respect to their hydrophobic part by variation of the length of the alkyl chain and the degree of polymerisation of this block to have a relatively pronounced tendency to form copolymer micelles in aqueous solution. They were employed for preparing IPECs by mixing the copolymer micelles with the polycations polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC) or quaternised chitosan (q-chit). The detailed IPEC structure as a function of composition was investigated by Static Light- and Small Angle Neutron Scattering techniques. For weakly associated block copolymers, complexation with the polycation leads to the formation of globular complexes, while already existing micelles grow further in mass. In general, aggregates become larger upon addition of further polycation, but this growth is much more pronounced for PDADMAC compared to q-chit, there leading to formation of clusters of aggregates. This means that the structure of such IPECs with a hydrophobic core depends largely on the type of complexing polyelectrolyte, which allows controlling the structural organisation via the molecular architecture of the two oppositely charged polyelectrolytes.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The complexation/coagulation induced by cationic polyelectrolyte (PE) is considered to be an effective method to deal with humic acid (HA) in conventional water treatment process. That is important as HA exists ubiquitously in aquatic environments as a degradation product of plants and it can negatively affect the quality of drinking water.  In this study, we investigate the Ca2+ effects on the interaction between HA and polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC). A combination of UV-Vis and confocal microscopy is utilized to probe the phase behavior and colloidal morphology of the formed HA-PE aggregates as a function of mixing ratio. In addition, to elucidate in more details on the generic and the specific ion effects on the mesoscopic structure of the complexes, HA-PDADMAC complexes under various ionic condition were systematically investigated by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS). It was observed that by tailoring the concentration of Ca2+, faster aggregation kinetics and denser aggregates can be formed even at low polyelectrolyte concentration. This insight from colloid science is promising to optimize water treatment process in industrial fields.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research In natural medicine, the leaves of the tropical plant soursop (Annona muricate) are used for the treatment of a variety of diseases. Our research objective is to develop a novel application of active ingredients from the soursop on textile structures. Such a refinement should lead to a dermatologically applicable functionalization and thus enable a broad application in the wellness and health sector, for example for the supporting treatment of neurodermatitis. The aim is to fix potentially effective ingredients of the graviola plant, such as acetogenins, on the textile surface. To isolate acetogenins from the plant, prior extraction steps with alcohols are required. For better processing, it is advisable to convert the extracts into a more manageable form. A promising approach for this and for the subsequent fixation of active ingredients on textiles is the encapsulation of such components. Microencapsulation involves technologies that lead to the entrapment of active ingredients in microdimensional objects. In most cases, the process of microencapsulation is designed to separate the encapsulated material from the external medium present through a membrane whose permeability can be made dependent on factors relevant to the application. Two different encapsulation strategies were used for the encapsulation of acetogenins, and in both cases biobased, water soluble polymers were used as the capsule wall material. It was shown that acetogenin-containing capsules can be obtained both in a system of chitosan and gum arabic and in a system of cross-linked hydroxypropyl cellulose. Both capsule systems exhibit very good dispersibility in aqueous systems, can be formulated into textile binders, and can thus be subsequently fixed to textiles. It was shown that transfer of acetogenin from functionalized textiles to other surfaces is possible. For both microcapsule systems, biodegradability studies were performed using a manometric respiration test according to DIN EN ISO 14851.

Authors: Jordan Tower (Presenter), Dr. Franco Pala, Weidong Li, and Tracy Stenner Poster Language: English Category: Home Care/ Detergents This paper investigates the effectiveness of the Critical Dilution Volume (CDV) criteria to evaluate the "eco-friendliness" of hand dishwashing liquid detergent (HDWL) products commercialized in the USA and EU from the early 2000s to 2020. This paper follows our 2022-SEPAWA paper on the "eco-friendliness" of laundry detergent. It aims to highlight the potential and limitations of the CDV criteria proposed by the European Commission for various commercial products. Overall, this paper provides suggestions for improving the application of CDV criteria. The chemical composition of surfactants, solvents, builders, complexing agents, rheology modifiers, and other ingredients of HDWL is provided by the Battelle World Detergent Program, which has analyzed the chemical composition of consumer detergents worldwide since the early 1990s. Each formulation compound's degradation rate and toxicity factor are from the Detergent Ingredient Database (DID-list) (2016). CDV calculations of HDWL products are performed according to the EU Ecolabel for detergents and cleaning products manual (2017). The data analysis focuses on temporal variation in CDV values for selected brands in response to their changes in chemical formulation. The data analysis investigates the difference between eco-marketed and standard products in the USA and EU and compares HDWL products of larger producers and local formulators.

Authors: Dr. Franco Pala (Presenter), Jordan Tower, Weidong Li, and Tracy Stenner Poster Language: English Category: Home Care/ Detergents Since the first formulation of non-soap detergents at the beginning of the 1900s, the industry has continued to investigate and propose energetically efficient, high-performing, and low-environmental impact detergent formulations. The need for this continued effort in innovation has been driven by changes in lifestyle, production and cleaning cycle cost reduction goals, and increased consumer environmental awareness. Following this trend, in the past two years, many scientific papers have proposed bacterial-produced surfactants, such as Rhamnolipids, Sophorolipids, and Lipopeptides, for use in low carbon footprint detergent formulations. Detergents with bacterial-produced surfactants, also referred to as biosurfactants, are intended to substitute detergents formulated with chemical-based surfactants (such as linear alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, ethoxylated alcohols, etc.) that have dominated the detergent market worldwide for three decades. This paper investigates the evolution of the surfactant system in the laundry detergents commercialized in the USA and EU from the early 2000s until 2020, to understand the resilience of traditional chemical surfactants in laundry detergent formulations against previously proposed biobased surfactants (such as alkyl polyglycosides, fatty methyl ester sulfonates, methyl ester ethoxylate, etc.). The quantification and characterization of surfactants in the detergent formulation discussed in this paper are from the Battelle World Detergent Program, which has monitored chemical formulation changes in home consumer products since the early 1990s. The data analysis discussed here provides insight into the challenges the biobased surfactant formulations will face in gaining market share against detergent formulations utilizing traditional chemical-based surfactants.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Rhamnolipids are among the most important and promising biotensides in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries due to their fungicidal and antibacterial properties, low toxicity to humans, and high biodegradability. These amphiphilic compounds belong to the group of glycolipids and can be classified as mono- or dirhamnolipids (dRL) based on the number of rhamnose molecules as the hydrophilic headgroup. Additionally, they possess one or two alkyl chains as hydrophobic tail. Rhamnolipids are typically produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa in cell cultures, with sugars or used cooking oils serving as carbon sources. The biological activity of rhamnolipids is attributed, among other factors, to their interaction with biological membranes. Previous studies have shown that depending on external parameters such as temperature and pH, rhamnolipids tend to self-assemble into various structures, including micelles, vesicles, bilayers, or stacked structures. Given their diverse potential applications, investigating the interaction of rhamnolipids with phospholipid membranes is of great interest. In this study, we examined the interaction of the commercially available dirhamnolipid product RHEANCE® One (Evonik) with model membrane systems composed of 1,2-dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DMPC) under physiological pH conditions, while varying temperature and dRL concentration. Temperature-dependent small-angle (SAXS) and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) measurements at dRL concentrations above the critical micelle concentration (cmc) revealed a highly complex phase behavior. The results suggest structural transitions from vesicles at low temperatures to stacked structures, occurring at the main phase transition temperature (Tm) of DMPC (23.4 °C). Upon increasing the temperature above 40 °C, the degree of order in the system decreases again. The presented data were also compared with measurements of pure dRL solutions at corresponding concentrations and temperatures.

Authors: Philipp Gelmroth, Anika Linß | Ilmsens GmbH Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research In the past decades, surfactants have become a major basis for a wide range of industries and daily life. Some industries focus exclusively on the production and development of surfactant combinations. Yet, in regard to sustainability and resource efficiency, exact knowledge on different kinds of surfactants in a solution is mandatory. Whereas ionic and amphoteric surfactants introduce an overall conductivity to the aqueous solution and thus can be easily quantified, nonionic surfactants can’t be detected using conductivity analysis. More complex measurement processes are needed when using nonionic tenside. This will become especially delicate if only a certain type of tenside in a mixture of surfactants should be identified. Using the principle of Impedance Spectroscopy, exciting any functional (ionic, amphoteric, or nonionic) group with an electromagnetic wave leads to a detectable signal response, being dependent on the tenside type and concentration, i.e. individual surfactants of a mixture can be separately determined using just one measurement. The m:explore.eis is a compact system for the measurement of any liquid by means of impedance spectroscopy. It uses a broadband signal and thus yields a variety of information when used on liquids. Equipped with its own peripherals it can execute measurements without any further requirements. Furthermore, it can work without the need of direct contact between electrode and liquid, is simple in principle in comparison to related analytical technologies, and fairly inexpensive. In summary, impedance spectroscopy is a handy and fast technology for measuring nonionic surfactants. It can provide useful information about the concentration and behaviour of tenside and detergents and permits quality control and process optimization in the chemical industry.

Authors: Jörn Phillipp Optatzi 1,2, Peter Schmiedel 1, Birgit Glüsen 2 1 LRR-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany 2 TH Köln – University of Applied Sciences, 51368 Leverkusen Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Combinations of anionic surfactants and cationic polyelectrolytes are commonly used as ingredients in several different applications. In shampoos, for instance, they help to reduce the combing force of the hair and they impart a smooth hair feeling. Laundry and cleaning applications contain in most cases ionic surfactants or surfactant mixtures and can also comprise polyelectrolytes. In this case the polyelectrolytes can act as soil release polymers and prevent re-soiling. The bulk interactions of mixtures of polymers and surfactants are decisively controlling the adsorption behavior of the polyelectrolytes onto substrates. These have been intensively investigated since the 50’s years of the 20th century. However, in view of climate change, a reduction of the emission of greenhouse gases is necessary. Additionally, the mostly poor biodegradability of the used polymers leads to environmental pollution. Therefore, it is necessary to replace these complex, well-established systems by green and sustainable polymer-surfactant systems. Conventional systems, containing a poly-cation and anionic surfactants, are well studied. Recent studies mostly investigate systems containing either a (well described) biosurfactant, or a (well described) biopolymer. There is, however, still a lack of studies dealing with combinations of both biopolymers and biosurfactants. In this work, we investigate the bulk interaction behavior of the bio-based cationic polymer guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and the biosurfactant rhamnolipid using among others light scattering methods (SLS, DLS, DLS-based microrheology). Adsorption properties onto model surfaces were studied using quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D). Modified gold surfaces imitating negatively charged damaged hair where used. By an adjustment of the interaction properties in bulk, a significant enhancement of the polymer deposition onto the model surfaces in comparison to pure polymer solution was observable.

Authors: Jörn Phillipp Optatzi 1,2, Birgit Glüsen 2, Peter Schmiedel 1, Mahdis Hesami 1 1 LRR-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany 2 TH Köln – University of Applied Sciences, 51368 Leverkusen Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The hydrophilic-lipophilic-deviation (HLD) concept can be used as a guidance for surfactant/oil/water formulations. In contrast to the hydrophilic-lipophilic-balance (HLB) concept, the HLD model also considers formulation related parameters including oil type, temperature, and salinity. For surfactant mixtures, HLD model considers an ideal mixing behavior which usually deviates from reality. In this work, a mixture of anionic / non-ionic and polyglucoside, ternary surfactant mixture has been selected and its phase behavior with Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) has been studied to address the non-ideality mixing behavior. The surfactant/oil/ water (SOW) phase behavior was studied via dynamic salt scan where the conductivity of the SOW system was measured in situ by changing the salinity and the optimum salinity S* was detected by phase inversion. The optimum salinity of the model was compared to the experimental value and the non-ideality term was calculated. Finally, the deviation from ideal mixing behavior was discussed by possible interaction between the individual surfactant components in the mixture.

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research To reduce the dependency on crude oil and to create more biodegradable products, biosurfactants like sophorolipids can be used as substitutes for fossil-based surfactants in products. Sophorolipids exist in two different main forms, the acidic and the lactonic one. Due to their differences in their chemical structures their properties vary. Therefore, in this poster, the physico-chemical properties of pure acidic and pure lactonic sophorolipids as well their mixture are presented regarding their surface tension, cmc, phase behavior, interfacial tension, and foam behavior. Here, differences and synergistic effects between the two forms were found. Furthermore, to increase the interfacial activity of the sophorolipid, the influence of various cations and cationic surfactants on the properties of the acidic sophorolipids were investigated. Depending on the type of cationic substance, synergistic effects were found with the sophorolipid and an enhancement of interfacial activity. These findings, especially regarding the synergism between the sophorolipid and the cationic surfactant are an important step in enabling the commercial use of the sophorolipids.

Authors: Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 3, Alicja Krzyszowska 3 1 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, POLAND 2 ONLYBIO.life S.A., Research and Development Department, Bydgoszcz, POLAND 3 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, POLAND Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Products designed for body washing are one of the most popular groups of cosmetics. In recent years permanent changing trends can be noticed: consumers are looking for preparations that are natural, based on raw materials from renewable sources and have the lowest possible negative impact on the environment. Particularly important is also the safety of use in relation to the skin - solutions that reduce skin drying and have the lowest possible irritant potential are sought. An example of cosmetics fitting into the above trends are hygiene preparations in the form of coacervates. In physicochemical terms, a coacervate is a dispersion of lamellar droplets (composed mainly of surfactants) in a suitable solvent. Inside individual coacervate droplets, there is a long-range ordering with the structure observed in liquid crystalline lamellar phases. The surfactant molecules form aggregates, described in the literature as multilamellar vesicles or lamellar droplets. Preliminary studies performed so far indicate that coacervates can be used as functional forms of washing cosmetics. The lamellar droplets contained in their structure can be a kind of reservoir of surfactant molecules. A particularly important feature of such systems is a spontaneous transformation of lamellar droplets into cylindrical micelles upon contact with water. This results in a significant increase in the viscosity of the system. From a functional point of view, this allows to control the concentration of surfactants in the washing bath and thus affects the ability to improve the safety of washing cosmetics. In previous work on coacervates, conventional synthetic surfactants have been used. Consumer's changing expectations generate the demand to start work on developing new solutions, based on natural ingredients. In the presented study, the coacervation process was carried out for a model system dedicated to body washing, using the commonly used surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) in combination with Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, approved for use in natural cosmetics by certification organizations. The effect of sodium chloride concentration on process dynamics was analyzed. The coacervates were characterized in terms of their basic physicochemical properties, and studies on their functional properties and safety of use were conducted.

Authors: Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Artur Seweryn 1,2, Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 3 1 ONLYBIO.life S.A., Research and Development Department, Bydgoszcz, POLAND 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, POLAND 3 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, POLAND Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Currently observed consumer preferences for cosmetics for hygiene are mainly related to aspects of broadly understood safety. In particular, preparations containing substances of natural origin are being sought. A special attention is paid to the effect of the product components on the user's skin - the requirements for products concern irritation and drying effects, which are becoming increasingly rigorous. One of the most interesting solutions seems to be the use of extracts from digestates as the base of cleansing cosmetics. Such extracts are rich in various types of components, valuable from the cosmetic point of view, including biosurfactants (surfactine) or polysaccharides (e.g. levan). In this work, the results of research on the possibility of using such extracts in facial cleansing gels are presented. Prototypes of cosmetics containing different concentrations of extracts were developed and then subjected to physicochemical and functional characterization. The parameters analyzed included rheological and foaming properties, as well as the ability of the preparations to irritate and dry the skin. The conducted work provided necessary information on the possibility of application of new types of raw materials in the cosmetics industry. It was shown that with an increase in the concentration of the extract from the ferment, there is a significant decrease in the irritating potential of the cosmetic. The obtained results provide guidance for cosmetic manufacturers on the use of biotechnological raw materials in the production of cleansing preparations. This work was supported by The National Centre for Research and Development, Poland [grant number POIR.01.01.01-00-1433/19].

Authors: Baser, Aleyna; Bollig, Natalie; Hölscher, Celine; Maaßen, Lana; Sterkenburgh, Hanna; Su, Sophia; Sweeney, Cormac; Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The aim of the project was to create a virtual Hygiene - Escape Room for people with no previous knowledge, in order to bring them closer to the topic of hygiene the associated risks of non-compliance. Educating about hygiene is important as it is of high interest for preventing infection and avoiding microbial deterioration. These points are considered in the Escape Room and are brought closer to the players. The focus when creating the Escape Room was to reach a large target group and to deliver the topics in a playful way. The various topics are adapted to the players’ knowledge. The main character "Kevin" appearing in the Escape Room is used because Kevin represents a contrast to the other protagonists and there is a connection to him through the well-known films. In addition to the main character, the rooms are also designed in a way that the hygiene topics are linked to the plot of well-known films. Appropriate music, images and effects to the films are used for the atmosphere in order to achieve a bond. The freeware-platform Genially, which was used for the creation,offers multitude of possibilities as well as easy handling. The Escape Room is distributed via a QR code and an URL, which players can use to complete the Escape Room free of charge and without registration. Authors: Baser, Aleyna; Bollig, Natalie; Hölscher, Celine; Maaßen, Lana; Sterkenburgh, Hanna; Su, Sophia; Sweeney, Cormac; Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl

Authors: Jürgen Blaak 1, Isabel Simon 1, Verena Pabst 1, Dana Ditgen 2, Christiane Theiss 1, Dörte Segger 2, Peter Staib 1 1 Kneipp GmbH, Winterhäuser Str. 85, 97084, Würzburg, Deutschland 2 SGS INSTITUT Fresenius GmbH, Dammtorwall 7a, 20354, Hamburg, Deutschland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The physiological skin surface pH (ss-pH) can be disturbed by endogenous and exogenous factors, like detergents, cosmetics or irritants. It is of dermatological relevance, that in wet-working people or other groups concerned by frequent cleansing, hands are affected by acute and/or cumulative ss-pH shift. It is also shown in aged and atopic-prone skin that an endogenously generated pH-elevation can be normalized by acidic skin care routine, whereby data regarding pH-recovery from a “acidic” pH are rare. The present works examines pH-recovery by a hand cream after both, acidic and alkaline deflection in-vivo. An approach was established to experimentally induce pH-shift by citric and alkaline treatment. The product effect on ss-pH after single bidirectional deflection of ss-pH was investigated: randomized and investigator-blinded. The pH-deflection by citric acid product (pH1.8) and alkaline soap (pH10.6) was performed on both volar forearms. The pH was measured baseline (t0), 1h (t1), 2.5h (t2), 4h (t3) and 5.5h (t4) after pH-deflection. The product was applied after measurements at t1 and t2. The treated-skin showed significantly re-increased/-decreased and therefore compensated ss-pH values after 2.5h, 4h and 5.5h. The product application leads to a significant increase (citric acid site) and significant decrease (alkaline soap site) of ss-pH, however without completely reaching physiological spectrum: pH 4.1-5.8. In conclusion, the product was able to compensate the acidic and alkaline pH-deflection statistically significant. Thereby, the product was able to counteract the bidirectional induced pH-shift and restore the ss-pH close to the physiological ss-pH. However, more sufficient in alkaline deflected skin. These results address multiple outstanding questions for the future regarding the evaluation of the beneficial and balancing effect of cosmetic formulations on the ss-pH after endogenously induced (bidirectional) deflection, and thereby is of dermatological relevance in terms of maintaining the epidermal barrier function and keeping the hands skin healthy.

Authors: Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 1, Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Magdalena Zarębska 1, Artur Seweryn 2, Natalia Stanek-Wandzel 1, Ewa Zajszły-Turko 1 1 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, Poland 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, Poland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Food safety related to the use of pesticides and their residues on fruits and vegetables has become a major public concern. Particular attention is paid to the importance of thoroughly washing fresh food products directly before consumption. In this study, highly effective and safe detergents for washing fruits and vegetables were developed and manufactured, with a special emphasis on removing pesticide residues. The temperature dependence of the aggregation behavior of non-ionic surfactants in aqueous solution was used for removing from the surface and solubilization of pesticide residues during the fruits and vegetables washing process. Similar approach is used in cloud point extraction (CPE). The developed products were characterized in terms of their physicochemical and functional properties. Based on the results obtained, it was concluded that the developed formulations were highly effective in removing pesticide residues, significantly exceeding the effectiveness of washing with water, while maintaining high safety of use in terms of skin irritation potential. The research was funded by the European Union from the European Regional Development Found under the Intelligent Development Operational Program 2014-2020. Project implemented as part of a competition of National Centre for Research and Development: Application Project, grant number POIR.04.01.04-00-0112/19-00.

Authors: Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 1, Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2,, Magdalena Zarębska 1, Natalia Stanek-Wandzel 1, Ewa Zajszły-Turko 1, Magdalena Tomaka 1 1 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, Poland 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, Poland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Increasing the safety of products is undoubtedly one of the most important trends observed in the cosmetics industry in recent years. Consumers search for products containing substances of natural origin, fulfilling the principles of sustainable development policy and having limited negative impact on the environment. The work presents an efficient and safe process for obtaining cosmetic ingredients that are rich in biologically active substances. The idea of the method, which was named Loan Chemical Extraction (LCE), is based on borrowing ingredients from the final cosmetic to isolate bioactive substances from plant raw materials. The composition of the extraction solution includes only the ingredients for the production of the final formulation (cosmetic) and was adjusted to provide the appropriate aggregates (micelles) in the bulk phase. These aggregates ensured effective leaching of cosmetically valuable ingredients from plant raw materials. The resulting extracts are intended for direct use in cosmetic products. The LCE process is one of the steps in the production of cosmetics and is based exclusively on ingredients for final formulation. Grape pomace, a by-product generated during grape cultivation and wine production, was used as a plant raw material, being a rich source of bioactive (polyphenolic) compounds, valuable from a cosmetological point of view. It has been shown that using the LCE method, it is possible to obtain valuable cosmetics with bioactive compounds isolated from the by-product (grape pomace).

Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Water soluble polymers hold a central role in laundry detergents. These perform various functions such as surfactant boosting, soil suspension, surface modification, dye transfer inhibition, etc. Among these, soil-release polymers (SRPs) have recently received great attention from industries. SRPs are crucial additives whose function is to assist soil release from textile and to prevent soil redeposition during the washing cycle. Currently, the most diffused SRPs are produced from petrochemical resources; however, alternative SRPs manufactured from biorenewable polymers would be preferred from an environmental and regulatory perspective. To investigate this possibility, we have synthesized SRPs based on hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) grafted with controlled compositions of hydrophobic and cationic moieties and assessed their cleaning abilities. The results prove that the addition of hydrophobic lauryl appendages onto the HEC backbone is indispensable to observe anti-redeposition and soil-release benefits. Conversely, further grafting of cationic groups onto hydrophobic modified HECs (amphiphilic HEC) had no significative impact on soil-release performance but caused considerable disadvantages on anti-redeposition performance. Interestingly, in contrast to commercial SPRs that exhibit good soil-release performance solely on synthetic fabrics, amphiphilic HEC displayed encouraging results on both synthetic and cotton-based textiles, possibly as a result of a good chemical affinity with natural textiles. This work highlights that the applicability of HEC ethers as SRPs is governed by the nature and the content of hydrophobic appendages, thus leading the way for the design and synthesis of novel functional materials for laundry applications.

Authors: Mario Franco 1, Borja Rodríguez 2, Manuel Coca 1, Pilar Cristóbal 2, Ignacio López 2 1 Avenida Punto Com, 1, Alcalá de Henares – Cepsa Química 2 Plaza Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 1, Madrid – Cepsa Química Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Surfactants play a key role due to their multifunctional properties as cleaners, solubilizers, emulsifiers, or dispersing agents in formulations. Anionics are commonly used as primary surfactants with alkylbenzene sulfonates (LAS) as one of the most employed in homecare products due to their attractive cost-performance balance. Co-surfactants are also added in small amounts to enhance the effectiveness and sensory properties of the main surfactants, and can be anionic, non-ionic, or amphoteric. As the drive for sustainable products gains momentum and demands eco-friendly ingredients, the transformation of traditional surfactants and the utilization of alternative bio-based co-surfactants in formulation is experiencing a great growth. For this reason, Cepsa Quimica has developed NextLab-R. NextLab-R is a linear alkylbenzene (precursor of LAS) from renewable resources that allows formulators to develop more sustainable products by combining traditional high performing surfactants with an enhanced environmental profile with new plant-based ingredients. In this regard, the evaluation of the performance of this new sustainable product in comparison with market benchmarks in homecare applications is of great importance. Moreover, the study of the interactions between LAS and secondary surfactants is imperative to find the right combination of ingredients to be incorporated in final formulations. The present work describes the analysis of performance of LASNa (produced with NextLab-R) in comparison with other anionic and non-ionic surfactants, as well as the study of combinations of this sustainable LAS with two families of bio-sourced products: alkyl polyglucosides and biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids). The study involves the performance evaluation of individual surfactants and blends in terms of washing efficiency and foam ability under different conditions. The washing performance of the products is assessed for laundry applications the ASTM Standard, and the foam volume is evaluated in static conditions using a Ross Miles apparatus. The renewable carbon content of the different surfactants employed within the study is also calculated and compared. The results obtained reveal that LAS from NextLab-R not only meets the current sustainability standards, but also performs as a top surfactant. In addition, interesting synergistic effects have been found when combining LAS with other sustainable co-surfactants that could be relevant when including these products in bio homecare formulations.