Poster Presentations
A special part of the SEPAWA® CONGRESS is the scientific and application-oriented poster exhibitions in the categories of Home Care, Personal Care, Fragrance Fundamental Research and Sustainability.
Wednesday till Friday, 25 – 27 October 2023
During the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, the GDCh Division of Detergent Chemistry organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster in a short presentation.
For further details click “Poster Submission” or
Interested in publishing your poster?
Submit your abstract by 29 March 2023.
After the closing of the paper submission system on 29 March 2023, you can still submit poster presentations until 27 July 2023 by e-mail. Late comers might be accepted until 06 September 2023 (possibly without being included in the conference program).
Short Introduction of Each Scientific Poster by Authors (EDC)
Wednesday, 25 October 2023 from 12:30– 13:00 hrs in Room Auditorium
Scientific Poster Discussion with Authors (EDC)
Wednesday, 25 October 2023 from 13:30 – 14:30 hrs in Foyer 2nd Floor
Details about the EDC program can be found here:
Application-Oriented Poster Exposition SEPAWA® e.V.
Wednesday till Friday, 25 – 27 October 2023
The Forum for Innovations offers all exhibitors the possibility to present their latest developments in the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and perfumery industry.
On this topic, besides presentations, posters can also be submitted. Make your innovations stand out more by submitting a poster.
Posters for the Forum for Innovations will be displayed close to the exhibition and thus will generate awareness.
The Call for Papers for posters and lectures for the Forum for Innovations will open on 12 April 2023 and closes on 31 May 2023. The accepted poster abstracts will be announced here in July 2023.
Submit Abstract (closed)
Scientific Poster Exposition by SEPAWA® e.V.
Wednesday till Friday, 25 – 27 October 2023
As part of the SEPAWA® CONGRESS, the SEPAWA® e.V. organizes a scientific poster session in addition to the EDC. Authors present their scientific discoveries in the form of a poster.
Here you will find scientific posters on the following topics: Home Care, Personal Care, Sustainability, Packaging and Fragrance.
The Call for Papers for posters and lectures of the scientific sector opens 08 February 2023 until 29 March 2023. Selected poster abstracts will be published here in July 2023.
Submit Abstract (closed)
Poster Overview
Date: Wednesday, 25 October 20232 - Friday, 27 October 2023 Location: Foyer 2nd Floor
Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Surface Active Ionic Liquids (SAILs) are promising alternative to traditional surfactants. Their advantages include: high thermal stability, low toxicity and viscosity, a wide range of both miscibility and solubility, and excellent surface activity or wettability. Due to the amphiphilic structure, SAILs have been used as emulsifiers, foaming agents and dispersants. In addition, it has been proven that SAILs are a "green" substitute for classic surface compounds. Bearing in mind the environmental aspects, scientists are attempting to synthesize SAILs with herbicidal properties, which would be more effective compared to classic plant protection products. The aim of the research was to analyze the influence of the structure of selected SAILs on their surface activity. On the basis of surface tension isotherms, the critical micellization concentration (CMC) was determined for the tested ionic liquids. The contact angle was also measured using the drop deposition method. To determine the wetting angles, aqueous solutions of the tested salts above the CMC were used, because the best wettability is observed when the phases are saturated. Based on the obtained test results, it was found that the analyzed surface-active ionic liquids with herbicidal properties, regardless of their structure, lower the surface tension of water in the same way as classical surfactants. In addition, a linear relationship was observed between the adsorption efficiency of SAILs on the surface of the phases with the increase in the number of carbon atoms in the aliphatic chain. In addition, it has been proven that the lower the CMC value, the less active substance should be used to achieve the desired effect. This is extremely important from the point of view of the application of ionic liquids with herbicidal properties, because it will allow spraying a larger area of agricultural land with a smaller dose of the preparation.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients have seen increasing consumer demand in recent years. At the same time, consumers are demanding performance and efficacy similar to that of previous ingredients. UV filters in particular are increasingly viewed with skepticism due to their environmentally harmful and endocrine-disrupting effects. However, no natural alternatives based on chemical light absorption exist to date. Consumers are also open to sustainable and nature-inspired ingredients for antioxidants, antibacterial agents and preservatives. An ingredient that combines all three properties would have the potential to become one of the most requested multifunctionals. One solution could be tannin extracts. Due to their molecular structure, tannins can have UV-absorbing, antioxidant, preservative, antimicrobial and antiviral effects and can be extracted from natural substances or even residual materials. In this context, the properties are highly dependent on the extraction processes and the formulations produced. Research into these relationships can create a data basis for specifically predicting performance through digital simulations. In the future, this will enable customized product development for any variation of bulk, packaging, and supply chain, without lengthy iterative processes and storage trials. Scientists at the Fraunhofer IVV would like to develop this model-based method as part of the project "TEAM - Tannins from Extracts as Antioxidant Multifunctionals" using various extraction and formulation variations with accompanying analytics. Business development manager and scientist Dr. Daniela Leistl will present first results and application potentials.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives Polymer dispersions are commonly utilized in cosmetics to enhance the longevity of cosmetic products on the skin. Typically, these dispersions comprise film-forming copolymers such as polystyrene acrylate, acrylate, or polyurethane, which offer exceptional water resistance to makeup products. These film-formers are usually derived from petrochemicals. Alternative film-forming agents derived from renewable raw materials have been limited or nonexistent, and they often lack the unique properties of petrochemical-based polymer dispersions. As part of the "FIBIOKOS" project, which is funded by the German Federal Ministry of Food, Agriculture, and Consumer Protection through the Agency for Renewable Resources, a subproject was conducted to investigate the suitability of lignin as a sustainable component for bio-based polyurethane film formers. Lignin is a byproduct of pulp production and is derived from trees. Synthetic building blocks from byproducts of sugar production or vegetable oils were also used. These were produced through the esterification of biobased diacids with polyols. In the second step, the PU prepolymer was synthesized and then dispersed in water to produce dispersions containing up to 90% biobased components. The resulting products had a very narrow and small particle size distribution. Filming took place at room temperature and water resistance was achieved. The films were highly transparent but had a brownish color due to the presence of lignin. Schwan Cosmetics developed make-up formulations using the prototypes, conducted application and stability tests, and evaluated the film formers from a regulatory standpoint. The trials yielded promising results in the stability tests at room temperature and revealed the potential for future developments with these film formers. The water resistance of these test products was demonstrated, and their abrasion resistance was comparable to that of currently available synthetic market products.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Preservatives This presentation will focus on the microbiological validations of filling lines in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Microbiological spoilage is a crucial aspect for the shelf life of food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Aseptic or low-germ production and packaging ensures the product safety, the required shelf life and the subsequent safe use by the consumer. For this, successful decontamination of the products and all components in contact with the product (e.g. filling line, packaging, ambient air, etc.) is essential. The required degree of decontamination of the filling equipment depends on various factors. These include the composition and microbiological sensitivity of the product, the pH- and aw-value, storage temperature, targeted shelf life and the decontamination method of the product as well as the used preservatives. To inactivate pathogenic microorganisms and spoilage agents, the packaging material and the interior of the machine are treated by chemical (e.g. hydrogen peroxide, peracetic acid) or physical processes (e.g. UV irradiation, thermal treatment). These systems should be microbiologically tested and adjusted at regular intervals (ideally annually). The tests are carried out in accordance with VDMA guidelines. In the absence of legal requirements, these have a normative character and are recognised guidelines in Germany and throughout Europe for carrying out microbiological validations. These guidelines describe the test methods and requirements for the effectiveness of the decontamination equipment. To verify the recommended efficacy requirements, microbiological validations are performed using challenge tests. These tests are carried out with defined (by VDMA) and resistance-tested microorganisms. The samples and surfaces to be tested are either artificially inoculated with the spores of test microorganisms, or pre-contaminated bioindicators are used. Special procedures are applied to achieve homogeneous contamination. Subsequently, the samples are decontaminated at the machine under practical conditions. Microbiological investigation of these samples demonstrates the effectiveness of the decontamination.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care There are many possible causes for the occurrence of sensitive skin, some of which are still unknown at this time. However, sensitive skin, shares an imbalance in the interactions between the different cell types that define the skin. Communication between skin, immune and neuronal cells is a key factor in skin homeostasis. Neurogenic inflammation creates a global inflammatory environment that leads to a vicious circle of other skin cells: the result is an unpleasant sensation of pain, uncorrelated to any real stimulus. Thus, the challenge is threefold: 1. provide instant relief by stopping the release of pain neuropeptides; 2. calm the sensation of pain by acting on the β-endorphic pathway; 3. stabilize the inflammatory and oxidative state of neuronal cells, by having a preventive action on the imbalance. The study conducted has demonstrated that the extract of the microalgae Tisochrysis lutea allows at the three doses tested to inhibit the release of CGRP neuropeptide due to both the activation of TRPV1 (capsaicin) and TRPA1 (AITC) receptors on a co-culture of human sensory neurons and keratinocytes. This inhibition of the release of neuropeptide CGRP is accompanied by a decrease in the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β and TNF and an increase in the release of anti-inflammatory cytokines IL-4. The extract also protects the neurites of sensory neurons from the effect of capsaicin and AITC by increasing the expression of LAMP2a markers, showing that it seems to act via a modulation of autophagy pathways. The extract also showed a calming effect by activating µ-opioid receptors. The anti-inflammatory effect and the potential activation of the NRF2/ARE pathway, on which LAMP2a depends, as a mediator of cellular micro-autophagy, can be related to the known activities of fucoxanthin contained within the extract.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives Polymer dispersions are often used in the cosmetics industry to improve the durability of products on the skin. These dispersions usually consist of synthetic polystyrene acrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers or polyurethanes, which have film-forming properties. Alternative film-forming agents based on renewable raw materials have so far been little or not at all available, or do not have the special properties of synthetic polymer dispersions. The companies Schwan Cosmetics International and Worlée-Chemie have investigated in one of their sub-projects within the framework of the funding project "FIBIOKOS" (funding: BMEL via the Fachagentur für Nachwachsende Rohstoffe e.V.) whether it is possible to produce film formers based on cellulose through the targeted modification of various cellulose derivatives. In the course of this investigation, various manufacturing processes with cellulose derivatives were tested. Finally, the modification of hydroxyethyl cellulose by graft copolymerisation with acrylate monomers was successfully established. Some of these monomers were produced from renewable raw materials. The novel cellulose-based film formers have a Natural Origin Content (ISO 16128) of up to 85% and show comparable properties in terms of processing, drying and resistance compared to currently available conventional film formers. Schwan Cosmetics developed make-up formulations with the prototypes, carried out application and stability tests and also looked at the film formers from a regulatory point of view. The trials already showed promising results in the stability tests at room temperature and open up the potential for future developments with these film formers. The water resistance of these test products could be proven and the abrasion resistance was also comparable to currently available synthetic market products.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Cosmetics are products used to enhance and maintain the appearance and health of skin, hair and nails. There is a strong scientific basis for their use and it involves a wide range of disciplines, including chemistry, biology and toxicology. However, with sustainability in mind, additional factors come into play that help to reduce a company's carbon footprint. To understand the science behind sustainable cosmetics, it is important to understand the composition of the products and the molecule responsible for the claimed activity, and how it is sustainably grown and sourced. Science & Nature - Unlock sustainability At GREENTECH, we research and develop innovative ingredients and identify bioactive structures that are transformed into active ingredients through advanced extraction techniques for a holistic and sustainable approach to skin health and well-being. Our scientific teams use this information to develop new molecules that can correct a wide range of skin problems, allowing us to capture the most valuable metabolites from plant cells and obtain extracts with high performance profiles and improved performance. In this way, we are combining our expertise in natural molecules with the latest understanding of skin physiology to unlock the powerful potential of plants to provide sustainable and natural ingredients with a low carbon footprint. Here are two very different ways of doing this: 1) Obtaining Gentiopicroside by locally and environmentally friendly sourcing organic wild yellow gentian roots to create two Actives, one for a Rejuvenated Eye Area and another one additionally enriched by fermentation, for helping to heal dry skin from within. 2) Obtaining Andrographolide from Andrographis paniculate by cultivating this exotic plant in a local greenhouse for a holistic approach for rejuvenated and relaxed skin, to build an ethical supply chain.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Dehydrated (lack of water) and dry (lack of lipids) skins have common needs for water-binding ingredients. Inspired by nature, we have identified Sphingomonas faeni, a rare bacteria isolated from aerobiome, able to resist to abiotic stresses thanks to defense mechanisms that have been reproduced on skin. An upcycled process was developed from organic wild yellow gentian roots enhanced by fermentation with S. faeni to enriched the extract (SfE) in amino acids and phospholipids known to lock in skin moisture. To counteract skin dehydration and dryness, SfE boosts hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis both in the epidermis and the dermis. It stimulates HA receptor CD44 and its signaling cascade allowing the reinforcement of epidermal barrier through upregulation of tight junction and differentiation markers as well as lipid synthesis. SfE also stimulates dermal-epidermal junction markers for a better water diffusion within skin. Finally, antioxidant cell responses are upregulated for to protect HA from degradation by free radicals. Clinically tested on volunteers with dehydrated skin, SfE increases skin hydration index and smoothes wrinkles. It protects hydrolipidic film and has even a lipid-replenishing effect on a sub-panel presenting sebum-deficient skin. With SfE, our R&D goes also a step beyond by studying the skin holobiont i.e. the assemblage between the skin and its microbiota. For the first time in cosmetics, thanks to metaproteomic analysis, we have shown that, with age and dehydration, there is a slow-down of skin barrier and antioxidant functions both from human and microbial origins that are stimulated by SfE for an invigorated skin holobiont. At species level, SfE also stimulates abundances of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Ralstonia sp, a species specifically increased in hydrated skins. In conclusion, SfE is an innovative natural next-generation moisturizer able to bring a deep hydra-restructuration to the skin while invigorating its holobiont for a rehydrated and plumped skin.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care: Deodorant / Antiperspirant Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) the most used volatile silicone in antiperspirant formulations is known by its sensory characteristics that promote dry touch sensation, good spreadability and prevent stains on clothes. Conversely, controversies about its potential environmental risks lead the European Commission Regulation in 2018 to restrict its uses in wash off cosmetics by limiting its concentration in 0,1%. This movement lead many companies to start a process to replace it even not existing an official direction for antiperspirant products. As alternative, natural esters such as Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP) have been used, which despite having good emollient properties and a competitive cost, shows a very oily sensory characteristics and causes stains on clothes. Aligned to the silicone replacement trend, Indorama has therefore developed the product Isoamyl Caprylate/Caprate (Oxismooth®CP) a sustainable ester obtained from 100% natural and renewable sources: 1) isoamyl alcohol, which is obtained from sugar cane, a widely-available natural raw material in Brazil, and 2) vegetal fatty acids (either coconut of palm kernel derived, obtained from environmentally responsible sources as well). Introducing Oxismooth®CP benefits for AP/DEOS category, a sensory panel evaluation was carried out by testing 4 different AP aerosol formulations: 1) Market Reference formulation, composed by D5 (4,5%) and IPP (2,24%), 2) IPP formulation, composed by IPP (6,74%) and 0% of D5, 3) Oxismooth® CP formulation, composed by Oxismooth®CP (6,74%) and 0% of D5, and 4) IPP Replacement formulation, composed by D5 (4,5%) and Oxismooth® CP (2,24%). Results showed IPP Replacement formulation obtained the best performance in an overall perspective versus all formulation tested, mainly regarding Dry Touch, Oiliness and White Stains on Clothes attributes, showing a potential synergism between D5 and Oxismooth®CP. Additionally, Oxismooth®CP formulation showed satisfactory results versus Market Reference formula, proving to be a great option for replacing volatile silicones in aerosol antiperspirant formulations.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care, Sun Care In Kungshamn, located on the west coast of Sweden, the world's first greenhouse cultivation of benthic pennate diatoms are now established, working in harmony with the food industry nearby to form a circular economy. The diatom´s silica shells are extracted and purified resulting in a pure micro-sized silica material with a nano-porous structure and fascinating properties. A material that has evolved over millions of years that as of today is impossible to synthesize. Independent clinical studies showcase the multifunctional effects of algae-derived silica. When used in low concentrations of 0,1 %, algae-derived silica can increase the SPF in a sunscreen formulation with an average of 23 % based on in vitro studies and with an average of 13 % based on in vivo studies. At the same level of inclusion in vivo studies also shows that algae-derived silica can block air pollution such as Nitrogen oxides (NOx) and Particulate matter (PM) from entering the skin by 24%-50%. The moisturizing effect of algae-derived silica is at least as effective as medium-sized molecular hyaluronic acid, and its cleansing effect is 10-15 times better and three times faster than commonly used micro-sized silica.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Skin regeneration is the result of a complex balance between numerous cellular processes of stimulation, proliferation, differentiation, and migration, as well as remodeling of the corresponding tissue. This occurs spontaneously during the healing process. Stem cells play a key role in this. They are crucial for physiologic tissue renewal and regeneration. Unfortunately, repair mechanisms are reduced and become less effective with age. As a result, the skin's surface appears more irregular and wrinkled. The development of an active ingredient that able to activate these pathways has emerged as an alternative to counter-balance skin aging marks and restore younger skin architecture. Using ex-vivo proteo-genomic studies, we demonstrated the ability of a natural extract of Myrtus communis and Olea europaea leaves to act on several wound healing pathways. It stimulates the epidermal stem cells and boosts re-epithelialization. For example, the production of KRT17 protein, a marker of migrating keratinocytes is increased (p-value < 0,001). In addition, it activates dermal remodeling. The regenerative and remodeling benefits on human skin were confirmed in vivo on volunteers with mature skin. The active ingredient exhibited anti-wrinkle and smoothing activity on the surface of the skin. It significantly removes skin roughness from 14 days of application (-16%; p-value <0.0005). The efficacy is confirmed after 28 days of use (-22%; p-value <0.01). It significantly reduces the number by 49% (p-value <0.0001), the surface by 41% (p-value <0.0001) and the length by 45% (p-value <0.05) of crow’s feet wrinkles /D0, compared to placebo. In conclusion, the stimulation of skin natural healing mechanisms seems to be a promising strategy to reduce visible signs of aging and restore younger skin architecture.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Microbiological Quality Control According to ISO 17516 manufacturers are required to demonstrate that cosmetic products are free of specified pathogenic microorganisms. In 2020 the BfR (German federal institute of risk assessment) demanded that Pluralibacter gergoviae should be added to the list because of its risk potential. This is a challenging requirement for the microbiological quality control lab since there are, in contrast to other bacteria, neither methods described nor selective media available for the distinct detection of P. gergoviae. The goal of this investigation was to develop a method which can detect this microorganism specifically in cosmetic products, and which is easy to perform in a routine quality lab. The core of this method is an isothermal amplification based on the LAMP technology (Loop-mediated AMPlification) combined with detecting the result on a lateral-flow strip, which is known from several rapid tests. The developed test was evaluated in a broad study: More than 20 different products were contaminated with P. gergoviae and analyzed with the new technology. Further the detection limit of the method was determined. With this newly developed test-method it is possible to detect the absence of Pluralibacter gergoviae in 1 g product, fulfilling BfR demands. Additionally, the test can be performed in a class 1 lab and leads to results within 60 min. Thus, this method further contributes to the safety of cosmetic products.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Analytic & Quality Control Multicomponent systems containing fragrances are widely used in personal care, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industry, as well as in detergents. The main function of aroma substances is to trigger the olfactory system and thus to provide an additional value to the product. The intensity of the scent depends directly on the concentration of the fragrances above the liquid surface (“Headspace”). In industrial praxis, odour assessment is usually performed by human olfactory system, by headspace chromatography, and by chemo- or bio- electronic sensing devices. The aim of the presentation is to introduce tensiometric methods as a sensitive and economical tool for the quantification of fragrances in aqueous systems and in the vapors of perfume-containing products. The approach is based on the amphiphilic properties of aroma molecules leading to their high dynamic surface activity, i.e., the ability to adsorb rapidly at interfaces and reduce the surface tension of aqueous formulations. The fragrance concentration in the formulation, and its release from complex systems (micellar solutions, capsules, emulsions, etc) can be assessed by measuring the dynamic surface tension using maximum bubble pressure tensiometry. This method is sensitive, allows a high throughput and can be used to analyse chemical changes. It is suitable for quality control, to determine fragrance concentration in storage test or after artificial aging, to detect the purity of essential oils, their solubility limits, and to optimize compositions and manufacturing processes of fragrance-containing products. Thus, "sensing tensiometry" forms a sensitive, and economical system with high throughput for the quantitative detection of fragrances in headspace.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Preservatives Cosmetic and personal care brands are facing an increasing demand for more sustainable and gentle products. To meet these demands, formulators are exploring alternatives in form of multifunctional ingredients to reduce or replace traditional ingredients. Understanding the benefits and necessary dosing levels of multifunctional ingredients is crucial. This lecture presents a full spectrum of multifunctional testing capabilities including antioxidant, surfactant, chelator, antimicrobial enhancement, and viscosity modifier. The enhancement of the antimicrobial efficacy of soft preservatives was evaluated through bacterial and fungal challenge testing. A lead molecule evaluated by this testing showed superior enhancement performance than ethylhexylglycerin or 1,2-pentanediol, when combined with phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol in personal care formulations. Tensiometer measurements were used to assess surface tension and interfacial tension, which can be correlated to surfactant and emulsifier properties. The antioxidant and chelating properties were measured both intrinsically and in-formulation. Lastly, rheological properties were evaluated, including viscosity and friction coefficient, to better understand the effects of the multifunctional ingredients in personal care formulations. These capabilities support formulators in the selection and utilization of multifunctional ingredients, leading to state of the art products that meet brand objectives and consumer demands.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Interest in bio-based chemicals production from sugars strongly increased in the last decade. These sugar-derived products can potentially replace oil-derived chemicals such as succinic acid. Traditionally, succinic acid, is derived from fossil sources via the hydrogenation of maleic anhydride and considered as a key platform chemical as it is used in the production of a wide range of products. There's a opportunity for Succinic Acid biosynthesis: bio-based Succinic Acid production doesn't contribute to the accumulation of carbon dioxide (CO2) into the environment and can be considered as a “green” chemical. Succinic acid is an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid (diacid) described by the empirical formula C4H6O4, and occurs naturally in living organisms. This diacid is an input pathway to the Krebs cycle which takes place within the mitochondria found in all cells of the human body. Provides the energy necessary for the body to function and is involved in a variety of important biological actions. Vita Soft Peel is Cosmos-approved, non-GMO ingredient derived from 100% renewable plant raw materials. It's a safe, sustainable and multifunctional alternative to other acids used in cosmetics. Salicylic acid have been used for decades in topical products as preservative systems, but has a low water solubility. Vita Soft Peel has a higher and favorable water solubility and is a preservative booster. Initial research on the minimum inhibitory concentration of Vita Soft Peel, compared with salycilic acid, has shown that Vita Soft Peel, shows a decrease in microbial growth of over 99.9% at a concentration as low as 0.1% against P. Acnes and C. Vaginalis strains, thus outperforming the effects of salicylic acid. We recently demonstrated the effectiveness of Vita Soft Peel, in anti-dandruff activity, showing a minimum inhibitory activity of 1% against Malassezia furfur strain ATCC14521 This ingredient is easy to use, and also has antimicrobial properties.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Dandruff is a skin condition found in 45-50% of the global population. Hallmark symptoms include discarded stratum corneum cells often seen as oily, white to yellowish flakes. Apart from the visible symptoms, dandruff is often accompanied by itching and scalp tightness. Recently, a ban on the anti-dandruff agent zinc pyrithione in the European Union has led to a search for alternative agents to combat the causes of dandruff. Historically, the yeast Malassezia furfur has been seen as the main causative agent of dandruff, but recently M. globosa and M. restricta have been added to the list. While these fungal agents are part of the triggers to develop dandruff, the actual mechanism is still unknown. Studies have shown, that isolates of Malassezia sp. are significantly more common in patients suffering from dandruff, yet there seem to be strong regional variations. Aggravatingly, the nomenclature of the fungi in question has changed drastically in recent years. While M. furfur has always been present, molecular studies have led to a differentiation into 7 separate species, including M. furfur, M. globosa and M. restricta, potentially causing further confusion, as early studies on M. furfur might reference fungi now known as a different species in today’s nomenclature. Moving forward, we must keep this in mind for new approaches as well as during re-assessment of earlier approaches. While M. furfur is widely considered the gold standard in testing for anti-dandruff efficacy in the cosmetic industry, we cannot disregard the impact of other species in this matter. In our study we investigated potential differences in anti-dandruff efficacy of various agents between the before-mentioned causative agents in question to guarantee safe and efficient products despite the obscure state of knowledge.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decorative Cosmetics and Skin Care Applications Cellulose acetate is a fully biodegradable material. It is made from wood pulp from sustainably managed forests and plantations (FSC or PEFC certified) and can therefore provide alternatives to microplastics. During the presentation it will be shown how Cellulose acetate performs in comparison to microplastics particles in personal care applications. Different analysis methods are presented such as the results which are obtained with the Texture Analyzer. Furthermore, differences of Cellulose and Cellulose acetate as well as test on the biodegradation of Cellulose acetate in different media are presented.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Disinfectant Agents: Alcohol free based disinfectant Hospital-acquired or healthcare-associated infections (HAIs) are considered among the most common adverse events that pose a significant burden on public health worldwide. HAIs are mainly due to frequently touched surfaces (FTS) that are contaminated with pathogens in the healthcare settings. The persistence of pathogens on surfaces which are frequently touched by healthcare workers, visitors, and patients increases the risk of acquiring infectious agents in hospital environments. Moreover, FTS also plays a major role in the transmission of pathogens in high-traffic public places. Ethanol is the most common alcohol ingredient with an effective bactericidal potential, routinely used as a disinfectant, but it must be used repeatedly. Consequently, it would be important to adopt and carry out routine cleaning of FTS through non-alcohol-based disinfectants with antibacterial activity that persists for longer time. Sanicus 1 and Sanicus 2 are copper-based disinfectants containing copper sulfate pentahydrate. In this study, we first determined the antibacterial activity of both disinfectants against the Gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus and the Gram-negatives Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, using a well-diffusion assay, and then confirmed this activity using the ISO: 22196:2011 norm. Both disinfectants demonstrated a rapid bactericidal activity after 3 hours of exposure against all the tested bacterial species. In addition, the disinfectants were exposed to E. coli to test the persistence of the antibacterial activity over time and showed that this remains unaltered after 24 hours of pre-treatment. Taken together the results indicate that the disinfectants used in this study represent a valid alternative to alcohol-based disinfectants.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents: Method development Adopting sustainability as the company's fundamental value necessitates changing all procedures to reflect sustainable practices. In this study, we have improved our stain removal performance tests as part of our sustainability approach. Previously, stains used in performance tests were prepared by applying everyday food items to the fabric in a circular fashion. After the stains were allowed to dry, the stain was cut in half. One half was washed with the 'test' detergent and the other half with the 'reference' detergent with eight repetitive washes for each detergent. After washings, an expert evaluates the stain removal performance by naked eye assessment. Since the evaluation was made by comparing the "test" detergent with the "reference" detergent, the reference detergent had to be rewashed and reanalyzed for each measurement which was causing excessive use of resources. Also, the test results were depending on the expert. The main objectives of this study are using less resources and increasing the reliability of the reported results. To achieve these goals, a significant amount of testing was carried out to apply Six Sigma tools. Standard stains showing best responses were selected. As a result, a `new method` was developed. With this "new method" there is no need to repeat the reference detergent washes. As a result, the number of required tests is reduced by half. In addition, standard stains were analyzed by spectrophotometer, which provided more reliable data that can be stored for future analyses. Data shows that, 1280 tons of water and 60916 kW of energy were consumed to carry out 267 washing machine runs yearly. By switching to `new method`, the same tests can be performed with 384 tons of water and 18190 kW of energy, which brings %70 reduction in water and energy consumption.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care This presentation is aimed at giving the basic principles behind the surface techniques ellipsometry, QCM-D, and AFM, and how they can be utilized for product development, decision making, and scientific marketing. Focus will be put on how these techniques can be used to better understand how ingredients, products, and formulations work in contact with various substrates, and how those learnings can be used for making better decisions in your development efforts. Results from several projects will be used to exemplify how adsorption and deposition (of surfactants, polymers, and biomolecules), as well as removal and cleaning (of fouled surfaces), can be tracked and understood by thought through usage of these techniques. These techniques can for example be used to get deeper knowledge regarding the cleaning mechanism of your formulation or product, i.e., if it works by roll-up, solubilization or emulsification, and how important other factors such as pH, mechanical shearing, and addition of enzymes are.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Today, body odour or household malodours are often perceived as a lack of hygiene. Some of these odours are generated[MD1] by the breakdown of organic compounds by bacteria. To prevent this generation of odours, products incorporating probiotics are increasingly being developed. However, their virtues in the field of hygiene are still unknown to the general public. Probiotics are living micro-organisms. These products are considered as natural and less aggressive alternatives, as they are usually bio-based and they will act specifically on the bacteria that cause bad odours without completely eliminating all of them, unlike traditional cleaning and disinfecting products for example. This mode of action aims to fight against bacterial resistance to disinfecting products and therefore to preserve the microbial flora, which can also have other interests. This is exactly the case with deodorants. The skin microbiome certainly generates odours when it comes into contact with perspiration, but it also contains bacteria that are beneficial in protecting the skin. Deodorants containing probiotics are therefore a new way of formulation. Nevertheless, whatever the type of products developed, it remains essential to evaluate their effectiveness in reducing unpleasant odours before affixing a claim of this type. In this presentation, we will try to list the existing methodologies to support odour claims through case studies. But first, we will look at the mechanism of odour generation by bacteria to understand what is at stake in the action of probiotics.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Care Agents The process of washing clothes causes mechanical stress on fabrics, especially on natural fibers, such as cotton and wool. The fibers on the surface of the fabric are frayed, generating a rough feeling in clothes after drying. For this reason, the chemical industry has developed softeners compositions, that can be natural or artificial products, used to promote fiber softness and alignment, in addition to reducing static electricity and adding fragrance. These products are commonly used on a daily basis, more specifically added to the final rinse step in the washing process. In household market, products are commonly found comprising compositions of fabric softeners in many different formats, that can be liquid, solid, in sheets, and others. Among the products in liquid format, there are some variations regarding their presentation, which include ready-to-use products, concentrates for direct use and concentrates for dilution, for example. However, self-emulsifying products are not found on the market. A self-emulsifiable product is the one that does not require heating and agitation to form an emulsion. The present work aimed to solve the need for self-emulsifying softening compositions that are capable of providing softness and smooth touch and at the same time can be used in household products, which are stable and easily homogenized by the final consumer manually, eliminating the need of using heating, mechanical stirrers or reactors, which was possible through the association of a polyalkoxylated compound, fatty esters and surfactants. As a result, there is a reduction in the use of water in the production process, lower energy consumption, reduction in the generation of waste, such as plastic packaging, and optimization in transportation.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Many formulations, especially those used in heavy degreasing/cleaning applications as is required for removing tough soil, are typically made with nonionic surfactants and high electrolyte contents (carbonates, silicates, caustics, etc.) Developing such formulations poses the problem of how to put the whole together and obtain a stable solution. To overcome this, hydrotropes are used. They are a key formulation block in cleaning products and their benefits are unmatchable by other chemistries. Committed with sustainability, Indorama brings to the market its new green hydrotrope which is 100% derived from vegetable sources. Indorama's green hydrotrope performance is superior to the traditional Sodium Xylene Sulfonate in several sides like: Solubilizing into water low HLB nonionic insoluble surfactants, depressing formulation freezing point, salting-out inhibition of nonionic surfactants in formulations with high electrolyte content and formulation cloud point rising at high temperatures. The green hydrotrope is ~100% actives, making it to belong to the select raw materials that avoids water consumption/transportation. Its liquid form promotes energy saving in two ways: The first one is that the product is not intentionally dried like other solid hydrotropes in the market and the second one is that the product is cold processable. The product is versatile as it is supplied in acid form, allowing the formulators to choose the neutralizer that better match the final application. Its high renewable carbon index allows greener formulations.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Water is the main solvent in liquid cleaning products formulations and, principally with surfactants, is able to dissolve a wide spectrum of soils, however, it has its limitations and when these are reached organic solvents must be contemplated. Through that way, the horizon of cleaning products is unfolded even further. Logically, cleaning strength is on the top of the wish list at the time of choosing a solvent for the development of a cleaner formulation however, other factors can be most influential. For example, mineral spirts can be ideal in terms of solvency performance but their low flash points make those solvents to be in the high flammable and VOC class. Engaged with sustainability and safety, Indorama has developed ALKEST LV 1400 which is a solvent 100% derived from renewable sources and VOC- exempt per CARB and EPA Safer Choice criteria. Those properties enable the development of greener cleaning products and simultaneously safer for the environment and consumers. Another special property from ALKEST LV 1400 is its lipophilic nature which allows to a better interaction with oily soil and leads to a high performance in cleaning and degreasing, which is essential for I&I and household heavy duty applications. That high cleaning performance enables the development of formulations at neutral pH without compromising the cleaning efficacy.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents The objective of this study was to determine the malodour reduction efficiency of an innovative proprietary odour capture technology called “AqFresh”, when added to a commercially available market-leading carpet cleaner formulation used in a portable carpet cleaner device. The volatile compound 3-mercapto-3-methyl-1-butanol (MMB) was used as a malodour proxy due to its smell, similar to cat urine. Aliquots of MMB solution were applied onto 18 carpet pieces which were divided into 3 groups. Group A was the untreated control, Group B was treated with the commercial product, and Group C was treated with the commercial product including AqFresh. Odour evaluation was performed before and after carpet cleaner treatments with the two tested products. For this purpose, a panel of 15 trained assessors (selected according to EN 13725) were gathered in a direct evaluation to score the carpet samples in terms of malodour intensity (VDI 3882-1) and overall hedonic tone (VDI 3882-2). Assessors were also asked to compare both treated samples and indicate which one had a more intense malodour/more pleasant odour in pairwise comparisons (ISO 5495:2005). The untreated control carpet sample (Group A) scored the highest intensity (very strong odour). The commercial product (Group B) reduced the odour to distinct, while the one containing AqFresh (Group C) significantly reduced the odour further weak to distinct (n=30, p-value <0.001 Group B vs C). The untreated control and treated with AqFresh carpet samples were ranked as the most and least unpleasant (n=30, p-value 0.005 Group B vs C), respectively. Panellists agreed with 23 out of 30 answers that Group B had a stronger malodour and that Group C were more pleasant (n=30; p-value 0.003). In conclusion, the inclusion of AqFresh into the commercial carpet cleaner formulation offered greater odour control efficacy than the commercial product alone.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Disinfectant Agent and Cleaning Agent Undoubtedly, surface-active ionic liquids (SAILs) appear to be a group of compounds that have made a breakthrough in chemical research. The phenomenon of SAILs allows the design of compounds by a combination of the desired cation and anion with the targeted physicochemical properties. Although they are not surfactants, they can behave like them and, in effect, reduce the surface tension of water or other solvent. Over the past few years, a significant number of articles have been published to assess the biological application of SAILs. Thus, these types of compounds have been used as antibacterial agents in drugs or disinfectants in many biomedical products. The aim of this study was to investigate the surface activity of a novel type of compounds. For confirmation of surface activity, parameters such as surface tension (γCMC), critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and efficiency of surface adsorption on an air–water interface (pC20) were analyzed. Additionally, the wettability of SAILs was measured using the contact angle (CA). It has been proven that with elongation of the alkyl chain the surface activity of SAILs increased. This work was funded by the Ministry of Education and Science in Poland 0912/SBAD/2308.
Date: Wednesday, 25 October 20232 - Friday, 27 October 2023 Location: Foyer 1st floor
Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment
Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Social Sustainability While consumers have long been aware of the potential negative impact that biocidal or chemical agents, pollution and other external factors can have on skin health, a growing number of them are coming to understand more about the role of the skin's microbiome in long-term health and damage protection. This awareness is driving growth in a newer category of products designed to preserve both shelf life and the viability of beneficial bacteria in skin microbiota. Commonly used preservatives such as isothiazolinones and actives like quats tend to create imbalance in the skin microbiome, leading to adverse impacts on skin health and aesthetical appearance. They either inhibit all types of microorganisms, including highly important commensal bacteria, or they fail to deliver an adequate preservative effect when used at dosage levels allowed by regulatory limitations. What is needed are solutions that respect and help maintain the microbiological balance that is natural to the skin's environment. Lactic acid and lactates, like those produced by Corbion via the fermentation of plant-based substrates, are among the naturally occurring components of skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which help maintain skin health and hydration. This presentation takes a look at the role lactic acid plays in a new patent-pending preservation system designed to help formulators create products that are biobased, effective and supportive of a healthy, balanced skin microbiome. Included will be test data regarding various microbiome organisms and associated growth profiles, in addition to insights into the efficacy of lactic acid as part of a novel preservative system. The new system offers formulators the opportunity to create products with higher pH levels (up to pH = 8) that preserve skin's natural microbiological equilibrium. Practical examples regarding use in specific applications – as well as informed perspectives on formulation – will be presented and discussed.
Poster Language: English Category: Sustainability / Environment Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT : bringing the benefits of soil release polymers for natural laundry composition We introduce the natural version of our leading liquid soil release polymer, Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. Featuring the same benefits and specifications as Repel-O-Tex® Crystal, Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT is more than 70% derived from natural origin. This allows formulators of green and natural liquid laundry to introduce the performance benefits of soil release polymers into their formula while keeping to their high standards of naturality and sustainability. Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT not only maintains a high naturality level, it also allows making green laundry formula greener by improving performances of liquid laundry, resulting in lower downstream environmental impact of laundry products. In this presentation, we will showcase the diverse array of benefits provided by Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. We will show how our natural soil release polymer allows extending clothes lifetime by maintaining whiteness and controlling long term malodor development. We will also demonstrate improved cold water cleaning performances of liquid laundry supplemented with Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. We will present various formulations incorporating Repel-O-Tex® Crystal NAT. These include high-naturality formulas specifically designed to target net-zero CO2 footprints, empowering formulators to create laundry products that go beyond expectations in terms of both performance and sustainability. Notably, these formulations offer the possibility of reducing detergent dosage while maintaining excellent cleaning performance, leading to even greater environmental sustainability.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care Formulating cleansers addressing consumer demand for cleansing routines that deliver skin and hair health benefits while fulfilling their desire to live more sustainably is challenging. During this presentation, we will highlight Solvay's toolbox of technologies and formulation solutions that can help formulators to design gentle and effective cleansers with appealing aesthetics and foaming properties while also delivering wellness benefits to hair and/or skin and helping preserve the environment.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Polycare® Heat Therapy is a non-ecotoxic double-derivatized cationic guar suitable for transparent formulation which protects hair from extreme temperatures. By forming an invisible and imperceptible barrier on hair surface, this bio-based active helps to maintain hair physical and sensory qualities. During this presentation, we will present Polycare® Heat Therapy ingredient, which brings softness to the hair with a nude feel in addition of heat protection. It provides discipline to hair, fastens the straightening and provides good conditioning for easier detangling. It doesn't leave hair sticky or oily. It keeps hair soft and healthy over repeated use of a flat or curl iron and hairdryer. Combined with vegetable oils and ester oils, it can even address over-processed hair. Less exposed and more protected and healthier hair for a stress-free style !
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Gravityl™ is a bio-fractionated extract of the red macro-algae Gigartina stellata. Obtained from an eco-friendly and sustainable process, this extract has been demonstrated to improve skin biomechanical properties. The biological evaluation of Gravityl™ demonstrates it counteracts the effects of gravity and ageing on the skin matrix organisation, ending up with clinical benefits in terms of skin firmness, elasticity and reshaping. Firstly, in vitro evaluations demonstrated a significant increase of collagen I production and an improvement of the expression of a whole set of genes involved in the dermis structure. In addition, ex vivo experiments demonstrated that Gravityl™ significantly restores the production of key proteins essential for the elastic fibres organisation and dermis structure. Secondly, bi-photonic microscopy revealed that in young skin, matrix fibres are linked together in all directions, conferring a strong capacity to resist deformation. Ageing induces a transition caused by loss of tensile strength, fibres tend to be oriented in a single direction, creating a lack of tonicity. Our results demonstrated that Gravityl™ restores a multidirectional collagen fibres orientation in mature skins. AFM results confirmed the skin matrix reorganisation with a significant improvement of skin suppleness (+65%). Finally, the clinical studies confirm the neosynthesis of collagen fibres (density increased by +4,2%), which has also been visualised with LC-OCT. Skin firmness is improved by +7,0% and skin elasticity by +8,0%, conferring a visible reduction of the double chin (-27mm) in one month. By increasing the production of essential skin matrix fibres and scaffolding proteins, this active restores the multidirectional scaffolding of collagen and elastic fibres, typical of a younger skin. Mature skin then recovers their biomechanical properties. This new strategy to improve skin elasticity and firmness offers a new promising approach for well-ageing active ingredients, with a targeted activity on the lower half of the face.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Over the past few years, many countries around the world have introduced restrictions on the use of microplastics in various applications, because of their potential harmful effects to the environment and living organisms. This has led to promotions of research and development of sustainable replacements for plastic microbeads in cosmetic products. In partnership with the innovative Canadian company Anomera, Croda has developed ChromaPurTM CV2 and ChromaPurTM CV7 as sustainable and functional alternatives to microbeads, and they are favourably contributing to the change of the beauty industry. Derived from upcycled black spruce, made from an environmentally friendly and patented process, the new ingredients are also 100% natural, vegan suitable, readily biodegradable, and COSMOS approved. While maintained in native cellulose type 1 that occurs in nature, ChromaPurTM CV2 and CV7 have a unique surface structure and morphology that allows the two cellulose powders to offer exceptional sensory and optical benefits, with similar properties to microplastic ingredients in Skin and Colour Cosmetic applications. ChromaPurTM CV2 and CV7 provide an alternative to microbeads and offer consumers the possibility to have a positive impact on the environment, while helping to tackle the plastic pollution.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Marine exopolysaccharides (EPS) and their Cosmetic applications P.Y. Morvan (1), B. Thollas (2), A. Courtois (2), R. Vallée (1) Key words: EPS, moisturizing, mattifying, soothing, Marine ExoPolySaccharides, also known as EPS, are natural polymers with a high molecular size, mainly composed of sugars. They are produced and secreted by microorganisms directly in their environment, for protection, nutrition, and adhesion. In a scientific program, more than 500 marine microorganisms were isolated from different marine biotopes in Brittany coasts. Some of them are able to produce EPS. They are characterized and registered at Pasteur Institute. They are cultivated in bioreactor where they produce their unique EPS. The culture in reactor associated to a purification system allows controlling the EPS synthesis, with a high reproducibility, and a high purity. Each microorganism produce a unique EPS with its specific composition. EPS have no earth equivalent. They are characterized by their chain of sugars (such as glucose, galactose, mannose, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, N-acetyl glucosamine) but also by their possible decoration by amino acids (Ala, Ser) or by chemical groups (acetate, lactate, sulfate) that give them a unique structure and a unique activity. Thanks to their unique structure, they have their own surface properties, in term of touch, softness, mattifying or moisturizing activities. Moreover, they could have cellular recognition properties according to sugar receptors on the target cells given them antifouling activities, anti-microbial effects, and soothing activity. Most of them have anti-inflammatory effect (reduction of PGE2, IL1a, IL6, TNFa or IL8 production) and can stimulate extracellular matrix production (collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid). Marine EPS can be use in their native high size but could also be used after partial depolymerisation giving them a new activity. This depolymerisation can be obtained with enzymatic, acidic or thermic action such as the patented HTAC technology using supercritical fluids.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Many ionic surfactants with wide applications in personal-care and house-hold detergency show limited water solubility at lower temperatures (Krafft point). This drawback can be overcome by using mixed solutions, where the ionic surfactant is incorporated in mixed micelles with another surfactant, which is soluble at lower temperatures [1]. The solubility and electrolytic conductivity for a binary surfactant mixture of anionic methyl ester sulfonates (MES) with nonionic (alkyl polyglucoside and alkyl polyoxyethylene ether) or anionic surfactants (sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 ethoxy groups -SLES-2EO) at 5°C during long-term storage were measured. Phase diagrams were established; a general theoretical model for their explanation was developed and checked experimentally. The binary and ternary phase diagrams for studied surfactant mixtures include phase domains: mixed micelles; micelles+crystallites; crystallites, and molecular solution. The results could be used to increase the range of applicability of MES–surfactants with relatively high Krafft temperature, but with various useful properties such as excellent biodegradability and skin compatibility; stability in hard water; good wetting and cleaning performance. References [1] K.D. Danov, R.D. Stanimirova, P.A. Kralchevsky, T.G. Slavova, V.I. Yavrukova, Y.W. Ung, E. Tan, H. Xu, J.T. Petkov, J. Colloid Interf. Sci. 601 (2021) 474–485.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Introduction Blue light pollution refers to artificial blue light exposure associated with a hyper-connected lifestyle. The growing use of electronic devices in our daily life contributes to the premature aging as a part of the “3C Aging” caused by cities (air pollution), computers (blue light) and communications (wireless radiations). Interestingly, the skin can sense blue light through opsins, a family of light-sensitive receptors initially discovered in the retina. Colorimetric and clinical assessments on healthy volunteers showed a clear hyperpigmentation caused by the 415-nm irradiation in a dose dependent manner, in various ethnic type of skin (both type III and IV subjects). Method In the present study, we have used a proprietary bioengineered 3D model of Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE) containing keratinocytes and melanocytes to study the impact of blue light pollution on skin hyperpigmentation. Using bioinformatics, a model of the skin pigmentation gene network was designed, and microRNAs predicted to potentially modulate these genes were determined. We have finally used our validated 3D pigmented skin model to assess the beneficial effects of a premium Theobroma cocoa extract. Results Differences in skin morphology and melanin level were first evidenced in RHPE phototype III compared to RHPE phototype V (Fitzpatrick scale). Then, an increase of melanin production and tyrosinase expression were observed after a 415 nm blue light irradiation on the RHPE phototype III. Besides, an increased level of MITF was observed concomitantly with a decreased level of several microRNAs of interest. Finally, in each case, the application of a premium Theobroma cocoa extract has reversed the deleterious effects of blue light irradiation. Conclusion To conclude, we have successfully developed a bioengineered 3D pigmented skin model responsive to blue light, showing modulation of the main biological pathways involved in melanogenesis.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Insect Repellent Intrusive species such as mosquitoes, biting flies, horseflies and ticks start to become active as soon as the weather warms up – much to the annoyance of humans and animals alike. Their painful bites and stings itch and can become inflamed or cause allergic reactions. These pests can even transmit diseases such as malaria and dengue fever or the Zika virus. The WHO estimates that 80% of world population in more than 129 countries are at risk to be conducted with diseases caused by insect bites. Vector-borne diseases is responsible for > 17% of all infectious diseases, and causing >700,000 deaths per year. And the ongoing warming of the earth induced by climate change has already started to effect the transmission and progressing spread of vector-borne diseases. However, most vector-borne diseases are preventable through community mobilization and protective measures. Saltidin®, also known as Icaridin or Picaridin, as active ingredient can be safely and daily used in insect repellents, which can mitigate the risk of infectious diseases. Saltidin® is not just a simple active ingredient that could only provide effective protection against the wide range of mosquitoes and ticks, but insect repellents containing Saltidin® are also very gentle and pleasant on the skin. Furthermore, Saltidin® is very easy to formulate. This gives the opportunity to create a large variety of repellent products to match the preferences and habits of every individual consumer. While focusing on Modern Insect Repellents with such an outstanding active ingredient, we make it possible to create more likeable repellents to apply and thus supporting the prevention of vector-borne diseases. Learn more about the excellent active ingredient Saltidin® at our booth A174 – 177 and protect what you love!
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The generation of odour on various sites of the human body, is mainly caused by microbial transformation of odourless natural skin secretions into volatile odorous molecules. Volatile fatty acids (VFAs such as 3M2H and HMHA), along with thioalcohols and 16-androstene steroids, are causal molecules synthesised by skin bacteria of axillary malodour. Several tests are proceeded to evaluate Zanthoxylum bungeanum fruit extract (ZBFE): astringency, Corynebacterium xerosis lipase inhibitory test, bacterial cytotoxicity is evaluated on Staphylococcus epidermis ATCC 12228 and Corynebacterium xerosis ATCC 373. A sniff test on axillary areas of human volunteers is carried on over an 8H journey against placebo. ZBFE shows a +295% more astringent capacity than tannic red wine. It has no inhibitory properties on S.epidermidis and C.xerosis growth at normal usage level. At 3% it inhibits by -181% lipase from C.xerosis decreasing triglycerides hydrolysis into odoriferous compounds. Clinical expert self-evaluation of armpit odour after a single application of a roll-on formulation containing 3% ZBFE shows a decrease by -57,1% of the odour after 8H compared to placebo. ZBFE is a full body care product with a microbiota friendly action through inhibition of bacterial enzyme that generate odoriferous compounds and with astringent, protective, hydrating, and antioxidant properties.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Decoratives The rising demand for sustainable products and raw materials has led Worlée-Chemie to develop WorléeMicromer Eco, a new range of innovative liquid acrylic film formers derived from natural and renewable resources. These film formers exhibit outstanding durability and application properties. Leveraging state-of-the-art technology, these products are formulated without any critical ingredients, aligning with various Clean Beauty standards. Specifically, they are free from PEG and sulfate surfactants and comply with regulations in China. In addition, the products are of course vegan, cruelty-free and GMO-free. With a natural origin content exceeding 80%, these film formers find applications in diverse decorative cosmetic products such as eyeliners, browliners, mascaras, and foundations. The product line consists of three novel film formers: an emulsion polymer, a water-based solution polymer, and an anhydrous solution polymer dissolved in a volatile organic solvent, which is also based on renewable raw materials. Notably, the acrylates used in these formulations contain over 50% natural-origin monomers. Application tests have demonstrated that these sustainable acrylate film formers exhibit exceptional film-forming properties, ensuring long-lasting and uniform coverage. Additionally, they offer good adhesion to the skin, which is crucial for enhancing the shelf life of decorative cosmetic products.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care Foaming is a complex phenomenon in surfactant-containing liquids and plays a crucial role in the evaluation of cosmetic products by consumers. To translate these subjective and difficult-to-quantify impressions into numerical values, extensive panel tests are required. Efficient development and evaluation of new products necessitate modern foam analysis methods that can characterize foam based on physical properties such as volume and structural characteristics like bubble size and distribution. A significant challenge lies in foam generation, as it influences foam properties. To establish a correlation between the tactile properties of foam from panel tests and those derived from physical measurements, it is essential to not only ensure reproducible foam generation but also vary the test and sample parameters to use similar foams in both evaluations. This study aims to exemplify the analysis possibilities provided by the SITA FoamTester and demonstrate how varying the test parameters can result in different foams from the same samples. The differences will be highlighted through various analyses of foam structure images, their temporal development, and height dependence. The new capabilities of the PC Software SITA FoamLab facilitate a faster and more comprehensive exploration of this correlation, enabling the desired link between panel tests and foam analysis.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Proteome is sensitive to exposome. When submitted to either intrinsic (chronological aging) or extrinsic (solar irradiation, pollution, …) stressors, the proteome will accumulate damage and eventually lead the skin to a loss of functionality and radiance. Proteome protection is ensured by chaperone proteins which supervise proper folding of “client” proteins and bind to misfolded proteins to prevent irreversible aggregation. By enhancing chaperones, we can reinforce proteome integrity which will result in a healthy-looking skin (luminous, radiant, and bright). Small Heat Shock proteins - including HSP27 and CRYAB - are molecular chaperones that are involved in various biological processes. This class of heat shock proteins is especially interesting as described to be part of the early response to stress events. To investigate the impact of Supervisome™ EPH on different types of stress, an ex vivo experiment was carried out applying diesel particles to emulate environmental stress as an integral part of exposome. Samples were taken for analysis of apoptotic state of the tissue by TUNEL assay and assessment of protein carbonylation as a marker for irreversible oxidative protein damage in cells. This study demonstrates that Supervisome™ EPH exhibits protection against exposome stress caused by pollution by counteracting the apoptotic effects induced by the pollution treatment. Finally, an in vivo study conducted on Caucasian volunteers having dull skin was able to show a visible increase of facial luminosity, radiance and an overall brightening of skin tone. Supervisome™ EPH is a 100% natural and readily biodegradable solution based on organic yarrow. This easy-to-use water-soluble powder can achieve radiant complexion without imparting any color or odor to finished formulation. All these assets make Supervisome™ EPH the perfect solution for multiple skin care applications focusing on pigmentation, radiance and protection of skin health and skin tone.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Sun Care In the increasingly challenging field of sunscreen development natural-based SPF boosters play an important role of optimizing the formulations. They can help to answer the demands for: high SPF products more sustainable sunscreens clean & safe formulations Designed for maximized UV protection SymEffect™ UV significantly enhances the SPF of sun care products. Its efficacy was demonstrated in O/W as well as W/O emulsions containing mineral or organic UV filters proven in-vivo. Additionally, the balance between UVA and UVB absorbance of the initial sunscreen formulations is kept on the same level. SymEffect™ UV is based on 100% renewable raw materials, is vegan suitable and thus improves the sustainability profile of sun care and daily UV protection products.
Poster Language: English Category: Personal Care / Preservatives The philosophy of minimalism “Do more with less” is challenging formulators increasingly to select ingredients that provide multiple benefits for their final cosmetic products. About 81% of consumers always check the ingredients of the products they buy. By that the industry strives to use less ingredients with more benefits to shorten the INCI, to reduce development times and inventory while having less impacts on environmental aspects. Symrise launched a technology that provides solutions to optimise the protection performance with multifunctional ingredients called Symshield®. The technology shows combination of barriers such as pH, chelating agents or water activity that allow formulators using less ingredients, lower concentration while optimising the protection and safety of cosmetics.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Other At a crossroads of performance, sustainability and care, Home Care is an ever-changing market where formulators’ must adapt to consumers’ expectations and the evolution of sustainability standards. Applicable to surface care, laundry and dishwashing, multifunctional ingredients bring multiple benefits to the formula: cleaning performance, product stabilization, sensory experience and product aesthetic. Cleaning performance is one of the main concerns of consumers, the degreasing power of multifunctionals is performed in comparison with surfactants well-known for their high efficacy: fatty alcohol ethoxylated. Multifunctional ingredients clearly demonstrate a cleaning performance improvement. Formula stabilization is also an important concern of formulators, antioxidant and enzyme stability tests are performed. Multifunctionals provide product stabilization by maintaining its integrity and performance overtime. In addition, they help to achieve a better sensory experience thanks to their foam volume and sensory enhancement compared to SLES/CAPB. Solubilization is also a main issue in the development of the formula to achieve an excellent product aesthetic. In comparison with non-ionic ethoxylated surfactants an improvement of the solubilization is observed. Multifunctional ingredients, thanks to their versatility and wide range of benefits, can replace several ingredients at once in the formula. They help to achieve a shorter ingredient list and meet the requirements of transparency and sustainability.
Poster Language: English Category: Home Care / Production and Development The requirements for transparent sustainability information on detergents and cleaning agents are constantly increasing. Manufacturers are faced with the challenge of having to rely on information and data from the upstream and downstream stages of the value chain in order to be able to evaluate and assess their products. Important influencing factors here are, for example, raw materials and product packaging. In its own team and in cooperation with its partner AST, BÜFA has been working on innovative methods and solutions to enable greater transparency and sustainability. As a trader of chemical raw materials, BÜFA has faced the challenge of developing a method for calculating the company-specific product carbon footprint and having this validated by an independent third party, compliant to ISO 14067. For example, the transparent description of used data sources, unambiguousness of data, inclusion of relevant emission sources and reproducibility were evaluated. Now BÜFA can offer a solid database and provides the basis for evaluating recipes for detergents and cleaning agents and weighing up raw material alternatives. In a joint project with the company AST, a process for closed material cycles of hazardous goods packaging was developed over a period of 3 years. For the first time, recycled packaging with hazardous goods approval is possible. In close cooperation with various interfaces, a separate plant was developed to produce recycled granulate suitable for hazardous goods and a system for sorting hazardous goods canisters by type. So the use of new fossil raw materials can be reduced, which leads to an improved CO2 footprint. A significant amount of packaging waste is avoided. Through pre-compression of the canisters, additional CO2 can be saved through more efficient logistics of container recycling. This makes it possible to transport hazardous materials in sustainable packaging and combine sustainability and high safety standards.
Date: Wednesday, 25 October 20232 - Friday, 27 October 2023 Location: Foyer 2nd Floor
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research We are currently encountering the issue of microplastics in many areas. Microplastics have been detected in soil, water, and even human blood. At the same time, many textiles consist of different plastics or at least a mixed fabric with a plastic content. Kelly et al. have shown that the amount of water used influences the release of microfibres; the more water used, the higher the number of microfibres released. Based on the methodology used by Kelly et al. we have taken a closer look at the factor chemistry of Sinner's circle. We looked at the influence of the amount of activated oxygen bleach released from sodium percarbonate and TAED on 100% polyester fabric. For this purpose, we added different amounts of sodium percarbonate to a commercially available bleach-free liquid detergent in the tergotometer based on the standard dosage according to IEC and determined the release of microfibre particles under constant washing conditions. The advantage of the tergotometer is that up to eight containers with a capacity of one litre of water can be used in parallel to investigate different washing parameters under the same environmental conditions. It has been shown that the number of microfibres released increases with increasing bleach concentration, but that a release of microfibres was also detectable without the addition of bleach to the washing process.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Stimuli-responsive polymers can change their properties, e.g., the water solubility, effectively and reversibly when a stimulus is applied. For water‑soluble polymers, pH and temperature are probably the best explored triggers to tune the solubility. Yet, switching the solubility via pH‑responsiveness is an invasive process, because acids or bases must be repeatedly added and removed. Stimuli-responsive block copolymers are particularly interesting systems. Such amphiphilic responsive block copolymers, which contain a switchable hydrophobic and or hydrophilic block, can self‑organize in water into micelle-like structures with a hydrophobic core and a hydrophilic shell. The high stability of these structures enables their effective loading with hydrophobic active agents, such as emollients, fragrances, or repellents. When the hydrophobicity is switched, the amphiphilic character gets lost and the polymer micelle dissolves. Thus, the active agent can be precisely released. Light, alike temperature, is an advantageous stimulus due to its simple implementation and non‑invasive character. Therefore, we combine the thermo‑responsive properties of N-alkyl substituted acrylamides with photoactive azo moieties such as azobenzene or azopyrazole. The trans-cis photoisomerization of the azobenzene group reduces its hydrophobicity and has been used to increase the temperature of the lower critical solution temperature (LCST) phase transition after UV‑irradiation. The induced increase of the transition temperature is typically around 5°C or less. Yet, the effect of the azobenzene photoisomerization is still not fully understood, even a decrease of the transition temperature after UV-irradiation has occasionally been reported. However, these counter‑intuitive effects are generally even smaller. Now, we produced a series of copolymers, for which we observed a regular or counter-intuitive behavior after UV-irradiation depending on the azobenzene content. In specific cases, we achieved a decrease by almost 10°C. In our contribution we shall present the synthesis and characterization of new multi-responsive dye‑functionalized copolymers, and their photo modulated switching behavior in water.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Bio-based starting materials such as oleic acid and phenyl propanoides have received increased interest for monomer manufacturing because of limited availability of fossil resources. New epoxides were received in good yield in case of both bio-based substances. The epoxides can be cationically polymerized or react with methacrylic acid resulting in methacrylates.[1-4] In this work, isoeugenol was esterified with lauroyl chloride and epoxized resulting in epoxy isoeugenyl laurate in good yield. Oleic acid was esterified with methanol and epoxidized resulting in epoxy methyl oleate in very good yield. Reaction of epoxy isoeugenyl laurate with methacrylic acid resulted in a new methacrylate. Epoxy methyl oleate reacted with imidazole, and the resulting OH group was converted with methacrylic acid to give a further methacrylate. Viscosity measurements[5]showed Newtonian behavior in case of all monomers investigated. Viscosity is significantly higher for the bio-based methacrylates compared to bio-based epoxides, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, and lauryl methacrylate. The latter are examples for commercial monomers. Real-time FT-IR spectroscopic investigation[6] of both photoinduced cationic polymerization of bio-based epoxides and photoinduced free radical polymerization of methacrylates show differences in the polymerization kinetics. Higher limited conversion was found for the bio-based methacrylates compared to both phenoxyethyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate. The presence of longer alkyl substituents makes bio-based methacrylates interesting for miniemulsion polymerization. [1] W. Maaßen, S. Oelmann, D. Peter, W. Sowald, N. Willenbacher, M.A.R. Meier, Macromol. Chem. Phys. 2015, 216, 1609-1618. [2] S. Walther, V. Strehmel, Chemistry Select 2019, 4, 4679-4681. [3] B. Sanay, B. Strehmel, V. Strehmel, Prog. Org. Coat. 2021, 158, 106377. [4] M. Heinz, M. Kepkow, N. Theofel, B. Strehmel, V. Strehmel, Sustainable Chem. and Pharmacy 2022, 29, 100766. [5] The authors gratefully acknowledge SEPAWAâ e.V. for sponsoring the rheometer. [6] Q. Wang, S. Popov, V. Strehmel, J.S. Gutmann, B. Strehmel, Polym. Chem. 2023, 14, 116-125.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Block copolymers were synthesized via Atom Transfer Radical Polymerization from alkyl acrylate (AlA) and t-butyl acrylate and subsequent hydrolysis of the t-butyl acrylate to acrylic acid (AA). These amphiphilic block copolymers were systematically varied with respect to their hydrophobic part by variation of the length of the alkyl chain and the degree of polymerisation of this block to have a relatively pronounced tendency to form copolymer micelles in aqueous solution. They were employed for preparing IPECs by mixing the copolymer micelles with the polycations polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC) or quaternised chitosan (q-chit). The detailed IPEC structure as a function of composition was investigated by Static Light- and Small Angle Neutron Scattering techniques. For weakly associated block copolymers, complexation with the polycation leads to the formation of globular complexes, while already existing micelles grow further in mass. In general, aggregates become larger upon addition of further polycation, but this growth is much more pronounced for PDADMAC compared to q-chit, there leading to formation of clusters of aggregates. This means that the structure of such IPECs with a hydrophobic core depends largely on the type of complexing polyelectrolyte, which allows controlling the structural organisation via the molecular architecture of the two oppositely charged polyelectrolytes.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The complexation/coagulation induced by cationic polyelectrolyte (PE) is considered to be an effective method to deal with humic acid (HA) in conventional water treatment process. That is important as HA exists ubiquitously in aquatic environments as a degradation product of plants and it can negatively affect the quality of drinking water. In this study, we investigate the Ca2+ effects on the interaction between HA and polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride (PDADMAC). A combination of UV-Vis and confocal microscopy is utilized to probe the phase behavior and colloidal morphology of the formed HA-PE aggregates as a function of mixing ratio. In addition, to elucidate in more details on the generic and the specific ion effects on the mesoscopic structure of the complexes, HA-PDADMAC complexes under various ionic condition were systematically investigated by small-angle neutron scattering (SANS). It was observed that by tailoring the concentration of Ca2+, faster aggregation kinetics and denser aggregates can be formed even at low polyelectrolyte concentration. This insight from colloid science is promising to optimize water treatment process in industrial fields.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research In natural medicine, the leaves of the tropical plant soursop (Annona muricate) are used for the treatment of a variety of diseases. Our research objective is to develop a novel application of active ingredients from the soursop on textile structures. Such a refinement should lead to a dermatologically applicable functionalization and thus enable a broad application in the wellness and health sector, for example for the supporting treatment of neurodermatitis. The aim is to fix potentially effective ingredients of the graviola plant, such as acetogenins, on the textile surface. To isolate acetogenins from the plant, prior extraction steps with alcohols are required. For better processing, it is advisable to convert the extracts into a more manageable form. A promising approach for this and for the subsequent fixation of active ingredients on textiles is the encapsulation of such components. Microencapsulation involves technologies that lead to the entrapment of active ingredients in microdimensional objects. In most cases, the process of microencapsulation is designed to separate the encapsulated material from the external medium present through a membrane whose permeability can be made dependent on factors relevant to the application. Two different encapsulation strategies were used for the encapsulation of acetogenins, and in both cases biobased, water soluble polymers were used as the capsule wall material. It was shown that acetogenin-containing capsules can be obtained both in a system of chitosan and gum arabic and in a system of cross-linked hydroxypropyl cellulose. Both capsule systems exhibit very good dispersibility in aqueous systems, can be formulated into textile binders, and can thus be subsequently fixed to textiles. It was shown that transfer of acetogenin from functionalized textiles to other surfaces is possible. For both microcapsule systems, biodegradability studies were performed using a manometric respiration test according to DIN EN ISO 14851.
Authors: Jordan Tower (Presenter), Dr. Franco Pala, Weidong Li, and Tracy Stenner Poster Language: English Category: Home Care/ Detergents This paper investigates the effectiveness of the Critical Dilution Volume (CDV) criteria to evaluate the "eco-friendliness" of hand dishwashing liquid detergent (HDWL) products commercialized in the USA and EU from the early 2000s to 2020. This paper follows our 2022-SEPAWA paper on the "eco-friendliness" of laundry detergent. It aims to highlight the potential and limitations of the CDV criteria proposed by the European Commission for various commercial products. Overall, this paper provides suggestions for improving the application of CDV criteria. The chemical composition of surfactants, solvents, builders, complexing agents, rheology modifiers, and other ingredients of HDWL is provided by the Battelle World Detergent Program, which has analyzed the chemical composition of consumer detergents worldwide since the early 1990s. Each formulation compound's degradation rate and toxicity factor are from the Detergent Ingredient Database (DID-list) (2016). CDV calculations of HDWL products are performed according to the EU Ecolabel for detergents and cleaning products manual (2017). The data analysis focuses on temporal variation in CDV values for selected brands in response to their changes in chemical formulation. The data analysis investigates the difference between eco-marketed and standard products in the USA and EU and compares HDWL products of larger producers and local formulators.
Authors: Dr. Franco Pala (Presenter), Jordan Tower, Weidong Li, and Tracy Stenner Poster Language: English Category: Home Care/ Detergents Since the first formulation of non-soap detergents at the beginning of the 1900s, the industry has continued to investigate and propose energetically efficient, high-performing, and low-environmental impact detergent formulations. The need for this continued effort in innovation has been driven by changes in lifestyle, production and cleaning cycle cost reduction goals, and increased consumer environmental awareness. Following this trend, in the past two years, many scientific papers have proposed bacterial-produced surfactants, such as Rhamnolipids, Sophorolipids, and Lipopeptides, for use in low carbon footprint detergent formulations. Detergents with bacterial-produced surfactants, also referred to as biosurfactants, are intended to substitute detergents formulated with chemical-based surfactants (such as linear alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, ethoxylated alcohols, etc.) that have dominated the detergent market worldwide for three decades. This paper investigates the evolution of the surfactant system in the laundry detergents commercialized in the USA and EU from the early 2000s until 2020, to understand the resilience of traditional chemical surfactants in laundry detergent formulations against previously proposed biobased surfactants (such as alkyl polyglycosides, fatty methyl ester sulfonates, methyl ester ethoxylate, etc.). The quantification and characterization of surfactants in the detergent formulation discussed in this paper are from the Battelle World Detergent Program, which has monitored chemical formulation changes in home consumer products since the early 1990s. The data analysis discussed here provides insight into the challenges the biobased surfactant formulations will face in gaining market share against detergent formulations utilizing traditional chemical-based surfactants.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Rhamnolipids are among the most important and promising biotensides in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries due to their fungicidal and antibacterial properties, low toxicity to humans, and high biodegradability. These amphiphilic compounds belong to the group of glycolipids and can be classified as mono- or dirhamnolipids (dRL) based on the number of rhamnose molecules as the hydrophilic headgroup. Additionally, they possess one or two alkyl chains as hydrophobic tail. Rhamnolipids are typically produced by Pseudomonas aeruginosa in cell cultures, with sugars or used cooking oils serving as carbon sources. The biological activity of rhamnolipids is attributed, among other factors, to their interaction with biological membranes. Previous studies have shown that depending on external parameters such as temperature and pH, rhamnolipids tend to self-assemble into various structures, including micelles, vesicles, bilayers, or stacked structures. Given their diverse potential applications, investigating the interaction of rhamnolipids with phospholipid membranes is of great interest. In this study, we examined the interaction of the commercially available dirhamnolipid product RHEANCE® One (Evonik) with model membrane systems composed of 1,2-dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DMPC) under physiological pH conditions, while varying temperature and dRL concentration. Temperature-dependent small-angle (SAXS) and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) measurements at dRL concentrations above the critical micelle concentration (cmc) revealed a highly complex phase behavior. The results suggest structural transitions from vesicles at low temperatures to stacked structures, occurring at the main phase transition temperature (Tm) of DMPC (23.4 °C). Upon increasing the temperature above 40 °C, the degree of order in the system decreases again. The presented data were also compared with measurements of pure dRL solutions at corresponding concentrations and temperatures.
Authors: Philipp Gelmroth, Anika Linß | Ilmsens GmbH Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research In the past decades, surfactants have become a major basis for a wide range of industries and daily life. Some industries focus exclusively on the production and development of surfactant combinations. Yet, in regard to sustainability and resource efficiency, exact knowledge on different kinds of surfactants in a solution is mandatory. Whereas ionic and amphoteric surfactants introduce an overall conductivity to the aqueous solution and thus can be easily quantified, nonionic surfactants can’t be detected using conductivity analysis. More complex measurement processes are needed when using nonionic tenside. This will become especially delicate if only a certain type of tenside in a mixture of surfactants should be identified. Using the principle of Impedance Spectroscopy, exciting any functional (ionic, amphoteric, or nonionic) group with an electromagnetic wave leads to a detectable signal response, being dependent on the tenside type and concentration, i.e. individual surfactants of a mixture can be separately determined using just one measurement. The m:explore.eis is a compact system for the measurement of any liquid by means of impedance spectroscopy. It uses a broadband signal and thus yields a variety of information when used on liquids. Equipped with its own peripherals it can execute measurements without any further requirements. Furthermore, it can work without the need of direct contact between electrode and liquid, is simple in principle in comparison to related analytical technologies, and fairly inexpensive. In summary, impedance spectroscopy is a handy and fast technology for measuring nonionic surfactants. It can provide useful information about the concentration and behaviour of tenside and detergents and permits quality control and process optimization in the chemical industry.
Authors: Jörn Phillipp Optatzi 1,2, Peter Schmiedel 1, Birgit Glüsen 2 1 LRR-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany 2 TH Köln – University of Applied Sciences, 51368 Leverkusen Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Combinations of anionic surfactants and cationic polyelectrolytes are commonly used as ingredients in several different applications. In shampoos, for instance, they help to reduce the combing force of the hair and they impart a smooth hair feeling. Laundry and cleaning applications contain in most cases ionic surfactants or surfactant mixtures and can also comprise polyelectrolytes. In this case the polyelectrolytes can act as soil release polymers and prevent re-soiling. The bulk interactions of mixtures of polymers and surfactants are decisively controlling the adsorption behavior of the polyelectrolytes onto substrates. These have been intensively investigated since the 50’s years of the 20th century. However, in view of climate change, a reduction of the emission of greenhouse gases is necessary. Additionally, the mostly poor biodegradability of the used polymers leads to environmental pollution. Therefore, it is necessary to replace these complex, well-established systems by green and sustainable polymer-surfactant systems. Conventional systems, containing a poly-cation and anionic surfactants, are well studied. Recent studies mostly investigate systems containing either a (well described) biosurfactant, or a (well described) biopolymer. There is, however, still a lack of studies dealing with combinations of both biopolymers and biosurfactants. In this work, we investigate the bulk interaction behavior of the bio-based cationic polymer guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and the biosurfactant rhamnolipid using among others light scattering methods (SLS, DLS, DLS-based microrheology). Adsorption properties onto model surfaces were studied using quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D). Modified gold surfaces imitating negatively charged damaged hair where used. By an adjustment of the interaction properties in bulk, a significant enhancement of the polymer deposition onto the model surfaces in comparison to pure polymer solution was observable.
Authors: Jörn Phillipp Optatzi 1,2, Birgit Glüsen 2, Peter Schmiedel 1, Mahdis Hesami 1 1 LRR-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany 2 TH Köln – University of Applied Sciences, 51368 Leverkusen Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The hydrophilic-lipophilic-deviation (HLD) concept can be used as a guidance for surfactant/oil/water formulations. In contrast to the hydrophilic-lipophilic-balance (HLB) concept, the HLD model also considers formulation related parameters including oil type, temperature, and salinity. For surfactant mixtures, HLD model considers an ideal mixing behavior which usually deviates from reality. In this work, a mixture of anionic / non-ionic and polyglucoside, ternary surfactant mixture has been selected and its phase behavior with Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) has been studied to address the non-ideality mixing behavior. The surfactant/oil/ water (SOW) phase behavior was studied via dynamic salt scan where the conductivity of the SOW system was measured in situ by changing the salinity and the optimum salinity S* was detected by phase inversion. The optimum salinity of the model was compared to the experimental value and the non-ideality term was calculated. Finally, the deviation from ideal mixing behavior was discussed by possible interaction between the individual surfactant components in the mixture.
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research To reduce the dependency on crude oil and to create more biodegradable products, biosurfactants like sophorolipids can be used as substitutes for fossil-based surfactants in products. Sophorolipids exist in two different main forms, the acidic and the lactonic one. Due to their differences in their chemical structures their properties vary. Therefore, in this poster, the physico-chemical properties of pure acidic and pure lactonic sophorolipids as well their mixture are presented regarding their surface tension, cmc, phase behavior, interfacial tension, and foam behavior. Here, differences and synergistic effects between the two forms were found. Furthermore, to increase the interfacial activity of the sophorolipid, the influence of various cations and cationic surfactants on the properties of the acidic sophorolipids were investigated. Depending on the type of cationic substance, synergistic effects were found with the sophorolipid and an enhancement of interfacial activity. These findings, especially regarding the synergism between the sophorolipid and the cationic surfactant are an important step in enabling the commercial use of the sophorolipids.
Authors: Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 3, Alicja Krzyszowska 3 1 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, POLAND 2 ONLYBIO.life S.A., Research and Development Department, Bydgoszcz, POLAND 3 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, POLAND Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Products designed for body washing are one of the most popular groups of cosmetics. In recent years permanent changing trends can be noticed: consumers are looking for preparations that are natural, based on raw materials from renewable sources and have the lowest possible negative impact on the environment. Particularly important is also the safety of use in relation to the skin - solutions that reduce skin drying and have the lowest possible irritant potential are sought. An example of cosmetics fitting into the above trends are hygiene preparations in the form of coacervates. In physicochemical terms, a coacervate is a dispersion of lamellar droplets (composed mainly of surfactants) in a suitable solvent. Inside individual coacervate droplets, there is a long-range ordering with the structure observed in liquid crystalline lamellar phases. The surfactant molecules form aggregates, described in the literature as multilamellar vesicles or lamellar droplets. Preliminary studies performed so far indicate that coacervates can be used as functional forms of washing cosmetics. The lamellar droplets contained in their structure can be a kind of reservoir of surfactant molecules. A particularly important feature of such systems is a spontaneous transformation of lamellar droplets into cylindrical micelles upon contact with water. This results in a significant increase in the viscosity of the system. From a functional point of view, this allows to control the concentration of surfactants in the washing bath and thus affects the ability to improve the safety of washing cosmetics. In previous work on coacervates, conventional synthetic surfactants have been used. Consumer's changing expectations generate the demand to start work on developing new solutions, based on natural ingredients. In the presented study, the coacervation process was carried out for a model system dedicated to body washing, using the commonly used surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) in combination with Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, approved for use in natural cosmetics by certification organizations. The effect of sodium chloride concentration on process dynamics was analyzed. The coacervates were characterized in terms of their basic physicochemical properties, and studies on their functional properties and safety of use were conducted.
Authors: Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Artur Seweryn 1,2, Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 3 1 ONLYBIO.life S.A., Research and Development Department, Bydgoszcz, POLAND 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, POLAND 3 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, POLAND Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Currently observed consumer preferences for cosmetics for hygiene are mainly related to aspects of broadly understood safety. In particular, preparations containing substances of natural origin are being sought. A special attention is paid to the effect of the product components on the user's skin - the requirements for products concern irritation and drying effects, which are becoming increasingly rigorous. One of the most interesting solutions seems to be the use of extracts from digestates as the base of cleansing cosmetics. Such extracts are rich in various types of components, valuable from the cosmetic point of view, including biosurfactants (surfactine) or polysaccharides (e.g. levan). In this work, the results of research on the possibility of using such extracts in facial cleansing gels are presented. Prototypes of cosmetics containing different concentrations of extracts were developed and then subjected to physicochemical and functional characterization. The parameters analyzed included rheological and foaming properties, as well as the ability of the preparations to irritate and dry the skin. The conducted work provided necessary information on the possibility of application of new types of raw materials in the cosmetics industry. It was shown that with an increase in the concentration of the extract from the ferment, there is a significant decrease in the irritating potential of the cosmetic. The obtained results provide guidance for cosmetic manufacturers on the use of biotechnological raw materials in the production of cleansing preparations. This work was supported by The National Centre for Research and Development, Poland [grant number POIR.01.01.01-00-1433/19].
Authors: Baser, Aleyna; Bollig, Natalie; Hölscher, Celine; Maaßen, Lana; Sterkenburgh, Hanna; Su, Sophia; Sweeney, Cormac; Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The aim of the project was to create a virtual Hygiene - Escape Room for people with no previous knowledge, in order to bring them closer to the topic of hygiene the associated risks of non-compliance. Educating about hygiene is important as it is of high interest for preventing infection and avoiding microbial deterioration. These points are considered in the Escape Room and are brought closer to the players. The focus when creating the Escape Room was to reach a large target group and to deliver the topics in a playful way. The various topics are adapted to the players’ knowledge. The main character "Kevin" appearing in the Escape Room is used because Kevin represents a contrast to the other protagonists and there is a connection to him through the well-known films. In addition to the main character, the rooms are also designed in a way that the hygiene topics are linked to the plot of well-known films. Appropriate music, images and effects to the films are used for the atmosphere in order to achieve a bond. The freeware-platform Genially, which was used for the creation,offers multitude of possibilities as well as easy handling. The Escape Room is distributed via a QR code and an URL, which players can use to complete the Escape Room free of charge and without registration. Authors: Baser, Aleyna; Bollig, Natalie; Hölscher, Celine; Maaßen, Lana; Sterkenburgh, Hanna; Su, Sophia; Sweeney, Cormac; Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl
Authors: Jürgen Blaak 1, Isabel Simon 1, Verena Pabst 1, Dana Ditgen 2, Christiane Theiss 1, Dörte Segger 2, Peter Staib 1 1 Kneipp GmbH, Winterhäuser Str. 85, 97084, Würzburg, Deutschland 2 SGS INSTITUT Fresenius GmbH, Dammtorwall 7a, 20354, Hamburg, Deutschland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research The physiological skin surface pH (ss-pH) can be disturbed by endogenous and exogenous factors, like detergents, cosmetics or irritants. It is of dermatological relevance, that in wet-working people or other groups concerned by frequent cleansing, hands are affected by acute and/or cumulative ss-pH shift. It is also shown in aged and atopic-prone skin that an endogenously generated pH-elevation can be normalized by acidic skin care routine, whereby data regarding pH-recovery from a “acidic” pH are rare. The present works examines pH-recovery by a hand cream after both, acidic and alkaline deflection in-vivo. An approach was established to experimentally induce pH-shift by citric and alkaline treatment. The product effect on ss-pH after single bidirectional deflection of ss-pH was investigated: randomized and investigator-blinded. The pH-deflection by citric acid product (pH1.8) and alkaline soap (pH10.6) was performed on both volar forearms. The pH was measured baseline (t0), 1h (t1), 2.5h (t2), 4h (t3) and 5.5h (t4) after pH-deflection. The product was applied after measurements at t1 and t2. The treated-skin showed significantly re-increased/-decreased and therefore compensated ss-pH values after 2.5h, 4h and 5.5h. The product application leads to a significant increase (citric acid site) and significant decrease (alkaline soap site) of ss-pH, however without completely reaching physiological spectrum: pH 4.1-5.8. In conclusion, the product was able to compensate the acidic and alkaline pH-deflection statistically significant. Thereby, the product was able to counteract the bidirectional induced pH-shift and restore the ss-pH close to the physiological ss-pH. However, more sufficient in alkaline deflected skin. These results address multiple outstanding questions for the future regarding the evaluation of the beneficial and balancing effect of cosmetic formulations on the ss-pH after endogenously induced (bidirectional) deflection, and thereby is of dermatological relevance in terms of maintaining the epidermal barrier function and keeping the hands skin healthy.
Authors: Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 1, Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2, Magdalena Zarębska 1, Artur Seweryn 2, Natalia Stanek-Wandzel 1, Ewa Zajszły-Turko 1 1 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, Poland 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, Poland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Food safety related to the use of pesticides and their residues on fruits and vegetables has become a major public concern. Particular attention is paid to the importance of thoroughly washing fresh food products directly before consumption. In this study, highly effective and safe detergents for washing fruits and vegetables were developed and manufactured, with a special emphasis on removing pesticide residues. The temperature dependence of the aggregation behavior of non-ionic surfactants in aqueous solution was used for removing from the surface and solubilization of pesticide residues during the fruits and vegetables washing process. Similar approach is used in cloud point extraction (CPE). The developed products were characterized in terms of their physicochemical and functional properties. Based on the results obtained, it was concluded that the developed formulations were highly effective in removing pesticide residues, significantly exceeding the effectiveness of washing with water, while maintaining high safety of use in terms of skin irritation potential. The research was funded by the European Union from the European Regional Development Found under the Intelligent Development Operational Program 2014-2020. Project implemented as part of a competition of National Centre for Research and Development: Application Project, grant number POIR.04.01.04-00-0112/19-00.
Authors: Zofia Hordyjewicz-Baran 1, Tomasz Wasilewski 1,2,, Magdalena Zarębska 1, Natalia Stanek-Wandzel 1, Ewa Zajszły-Turko 1, Magdalena Tomaka 1 1 Łukasiewicz Research Network – Institute of Heavy Organic Synthesis ”Blachownia”, Kędzierzyn-Koźle, Poland 2 University of Technology and Humanities, Department of Industrial Chemistry, Radom, Poland Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Increasing the safety of products is undoubtedly one of the most important trends observed in the cosmetics industry in recent years. Consumers search for products containing substances of natural origin, fulfilling the principles of sustainable development policy and having limited negative impact on the environment. The work presents an efficient and safe process for obtaining cosmetic ingredients that are rich in biologically active substances. The idea of the method, which was named Loan Chemical Extraction (LCE), is based on borrowing ingredients from the final cosmetic to isolate bioactive substances from plant raw materials. The composition of the extraction solution includes only the ingredients for the production of the final formulation (cosmetic) and was adjusted to provide the appropriate aggregates (micelles) in the bulk phase. These aggregates ensured effective leaching of cosmetically valuable ingredients from plant raw materials. The resulting extracts are intended for direct use in cosmetic products. The LCE process is one of the steps in the production of cosmetics and is based exclusively on ingredients for final formulation. Grape pomace, a by-product generated during grape cultivation and wine production, was used as a plant raw material, being a rich source of bioactive (polyphenolic) compounds, valuable from a cosmetological point of view. It has been shown that using the LCE method, it is possible to obtain valuable cosmetics with bioactive compounds isolated from the by-product (grape pomace).
Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Water soluble polymers hold a central role in laundry detergents. These perform various functions such as surfactant boosting, soil suspension, surface modification, dye transfer inhibition, etc. Among these, soil-release polymers (SRPs) have recently received great attention from industries. SRPs are crucial additives whose function is to assist soil release from textile and to prevent soil redeposition during the washing cycle. Currently, the most diffused SRPs are produced from petrochemical resources; however, alternative SRPs manufactured from biorenewable polymers would be preferred from an environmental and regulatory perspective. To investigate this possibility, we have synthesized SRPs based on hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) grafted with controlled compositions of hydrophobic and cationic moieties and assessed their cleaning abilities. The results prove that the addition of hydrophobic lauryl appendages onto the HEC backbone is indispensable to observe anti-redeposition and soil-release benefits. Conversely, further grafting of cationic groups onto hydrophobic modified HECs (amphiphilic HEC) had no significative impact on soil-release performance but caused considerable disadvantages on anti-redeposition performance. Interestingly, in contrast to commercial SPRs that exhibit good soil-release performance solely on synthetic fabrics, amphiphilic HEC displayed encouraging results on both synthetic and cotton-based textiles, possibly as a result of a good chemical affinity with natural textiles. This work highlights that the applicability of HEC ethers as SRPs is governed by the nature and the content of hydrophobic appendages, thus leading the way for the design and synthesis of novel functional materials for laundry applications.
Authors: Mario Franco 1, Borja Rodríguez 2, Manuel Coca 1, Pilar Cristóbal 2, Ignacio López 2 1 Avenida Punto Com, 1, Alcalá de Henares – Cepsa Química 2 Plaza Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 1, Madrid – Cepsa Química Poster Language: English Category: Fundamental Research Surfactants play a key role due to their multifunctional properties as cleaners, solubilizers, emulsifiers, or dispersing agents in formulations. Anionics are commonly used as primary surfactants with alkylbenzene sulfonates (LAS) as one of the most employed in homecare products due to their attractive cost-performance balance. Co-surfactants are also added in small amounts to enhance the effectiveness and sensory properties of the main surfactants, and can be anionic, non-ionic, or amphoteric. As the drive for sustainable products gains momentum and demands eco-friendly ingredients, the transformation of traditional surfactants and the utilization of alternative bio-based co-surfactants in formulation is experiencing a great growth. For this reason, Cepsa Quimica has developed NextLab-R. NextLab-R is a linear alkylbenzene (precursor of LAS) from renewable resources that allows formulators to develop more sustainable products by combining traditional high performing surfactants with an enhanced environmental profile with new plant-based ingredients. In this regard, the evaluation of the performance of this new sustainable product in comparison with market benchmarks in homecare applications is of great importance. Moreover, the study of the interactions between LAS and secondary surfactants is imperative to find the right combination of ingredients to be incorporated in final formulations. The present work describes the analysis of performance of LASNa (produced with NextLab-R) in comparison with other anionic and non-ionic surfactants, as well as the study of combinations of this sustainable LAS with two families of bio-sourced products: alkyl polyglucosides and biosurfactants (rhamnolipids and sophorolipids). The study involves the performance evaluation of individual surfactants and blends in terms of washing efficiency and foam ability under different conditions. The washing performance of the products is assessed for laundry applications the ASTM Standard, and the foam volume is evaluated in static conditions using a Ross Miles apparatus. The renewable carbon content of the different surfactants employed within the study is also calculated and compared. The results obtained reveal that LAS from NextLab-R not only meets the current sustainability standards, but also performs as a top surfactant. In addition, interesting synergistic effects have been found when combining LAS with other sustainable co-surfactants that could be relevant when including these products in bio homecare formulations.
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