Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
European Detergents Conference – GDCh – Smart Approaches for Detergents in a Fast Changing World
Chair: Prof. Dr. Brigit Glüsen/Prof. Dr. Thomas Gassenmeier
This year, the focus of the annual conference of the GDCh Division of Detergents Chemistry is on „Smart Approaches for Detergents in a Fast-Changing World“, with topics ranging from quantum chemistry and molecular dynamics simulations to the synthesis of novel switchable polymers and protein engineering.
09:00 - 09:30
Charge-Tunable Polyampholytes as Versatile Materials for Surface Modification
Prof. Dr. Felix Schacher, Friedrich Schiller University Jena
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) Polymeric materials featuring charge-tunable groups in the side chain are ideal materials for the design and modification of interfaces in various settings or for controlling and di ecting self-assembly processes. We herein report on the synthesis of polyelectrolytes, polyampholytes, and polyzwitterions using using different polymerization techniqu s and their pH-dependent solution and charge characteristics. One key building block in our setting is polydehydroalanine (PDha), a polyzwitterion with high charge density and, depending on the pH, tunable net charge. Apart from interesting solution characteristics, we have used PDha and partially protected derivatives as coating materials for iron oxide nanoparticles or within polyelectrolyte multilayers and could show that this allows reversible adsorption / desorption experiments using various oppositely counterparts, including proteins and model pollutants such as methylene blue. Besides that, PDha can also be charge used as reactive polymer backbone or the direct attachment of different side chains in grafting-to modifications.The resulting graft copolymers feature a polyampholytic backbone and side chains of varying length and polarity and are interesting materials for the use as dispersants.
09:30 - 10:00
Protein Engineering for Sustainable Laundry within HICAST
Prof. Dr. Ulrich Schwaneberg, RWTH Aachen University
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) In the directly by the Henkel company funded Henkel Innovation Campus for Advanced and Sustainable Technologies (5 yrs; 5 Mio€) at RWTH Aachen a molecular understanding of interactions between main laundry components (enzymes, polymer, surfactant) that govern their performance was generated. The latter achievements were obtained by combining the expertise of Henkel company and three research groups at RWTH Aachen, namely in protein engineering (directed evolution and rational design), biophysical characterization, and chemical synthesis. Directed evolution has matured in academia and industry to a routinely applied algorithm in tailoring protein properties to match application demands. In 2018, directed evolution methodologies were awarded with the Nobel Prize in chemistry due to their impact in biocatalysis and medicine. The presented results on a molecular understanding of laundry components was achieved by a combination of directed evolution and rational design methodologies and comprises: how enzyme-polyelectrolyte complexes boost the catalytic performance of laundry enzymes, how specific anionic surfactants increase protease performance, and how calcium ion bridges between polymer-surfactant improve enzymatic hydrolysis. Additionally, the potential and limitations of in silico and directed evolution methodologies in design of tailor-made enzymes for laundry applications will be discussed. Keywords: HICAST, Protein engineering, Directed evolution, Protease, Sustainability
10:00 - 10:30
COSMOplex: From Quantum Chemistry via Fluid Phase Thermodynamics to Micelle Formation
Prof. Dr. Andreas Klamt, COSMOlogic GmbH&CoKG, University of Regensburg
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) COSMO-RS is an alternative approach to the a priori prediction of chemical potentials, activity coefficients and vapor pressures of almost arbitrary chemical compounds in pure liquid solvents and mixtures. In contrast to the group contribution methods COSMO-RS gets the information about the intermolecular interactions from uni-molecular quantum chemical calculations on the compounds and thus it is far less dependent on experimental data. Hence COSMO-RS is an efficient alternative to group contribution methods on the one hand and to the Monte-Carlo and Molecular Dynamics simulations on the other hand. Several large benchmarks, as well as the results of almost all of the blind prediction challenges in this field proof, that currently COSMO-RS is the most predictive tool for partition properties in the liquid phase. In the last years, we have extended the COSMO-RS method towards inhomogeneous liquid systems as interfaces, micellar systems and micro-emulsions. This novel COSMOplex method, which is four orders of magnitude faster and most likely a factor of two more accurate than comparable molecular dynamics simulations, opens up a wide new range of options for simulating and screening important properties of surfactant and detergent systems on a molecular level.
11:00 - 11:30
I Can’t Get No Disinfection - New Challenges in Laundry Hygiene
Prof. Dr. Dirk P. Bockmühl, Rhine-Waal University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) Apart from the cleaning performance, the hygienic efficacy of domestic laundering processes is gaining importance. This can be explained by numerous new challenges originating from different aspects, such as lower washing temperatures to enhance the energy efficiency of laundering, the use of bleach-free liquid detergents or the increased use of man-made fibers instead of wool or cotton. Hence, a deeper understanding of parameters that might affect the hygiene performance of laundering and laboratory methods that are able to resemble a realistic scenario are needed to be able to take necessary actions against future microbial risks and problems, e.g. malodour formation or antibiotic resistances in the domestic environment.
11:30 - 12:00
Online Application of Near Infrared Spectroscopy (NIRS) in Dishwashers
Johannes Richter, University of Bonn
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) Today's requirements for a dishwasher are versatile: In the best case, it should automatically clean the dishes in a short, environmentally friendly and affordable way. For the manufacturers of dishwashers and cleaners, the challenge is to achieve the optimum cleaning performance depending on the state of soiling of the dishes. However, during a dishwashing process, soil components of varying amount and type are in the wash liquor, so the process must be adjusted to the degree of soiling. Then the dishwasher could automatically react to the degree of soiling and initiate appropriate measures. As part of the research project "Online Tracking", a novel method for the use of NIR spectroscopy (NIRS) in dishwashers is developed. Compared to existing technologies, for example turbidity measurement of the liquor in the sump, NIRS can be used to differentiate between various soil components (carbohydrates, fats and proteins). In a first approach, a method for detecting the main soil components has already been developed. In next steps, an at-line tracking of the soil removal during the cleaning process is investigated. In the further course of the project, this method is now to be technically integrated into a dishwasher so that "online tracking" of the soil components can be realised.
12:15 - 12:45
Enzyme Engineering for Detergent Applications: Combining Computational Modeling with Directed Evolution
Dr. Mehdi Davari, RWTH Aachen University
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) Modern laundry detergent formulations comprises many ingredients including enzymes, surfactants, builders, bleaching agents, fillers and other minor additives which have a synergistic effect in removing stains from the fabric surfaces. Proteases are widely used in complex detergent systems to remove protein based stains (e.g. egg, milk, blood, grass) from the textiles. Understanding the molecular interactions of main detergent components is crucial in improving formulations and performance of detergent industry products. This work will highlight enzyme engineering efforts in HICAST (Henkel Innovation Campus for Advanced and Sustainable Technologies). HICAST aims to develop novel and sustainable laundry detergents through a fundamental understanding of interactions among enzymes and detergent components. The main objective of this work was to gain an in-depth molecular understanding of molecular interactions that govern an enzymatic activity boost on an alkaline serine protease in the presence of polymers and surfactants. The integrative approach of computational modeling, colorimetric analysis, biophysical characterization (CD, FCS, ITC, and DLS) and protein re-engineering proved to be a promising workflow to gain molecular insights into the interactions that govern the boosting effect and to improve protease performance in detergents [1, 2]. The gained molecular understanding on fundamental principles causing enhanced protease performance is likely applicable for other detergent enzymes and can be further applied for reengineering of enzymes, polymers and surfactants compositions in modern laundry detergents. Keywords: Protein engineering, Directed evolution, Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, Rational design, Computational protein design, Protease
12:45 - 14:30
Short Introduction of Scientific Posters by Authors with Subsequent Poster Tour
Moderated by Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: English Short Introduction of Each Scientific Poster by Authors (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 23 October 2019 Time: 12:45 - 13:00 Location: Convention Hall I A Scientific Poster Tour with Authors (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 23 October 2019 Time: 13:00 - 14:30 Location: Foyer 1 Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
European Detergents Conference – GDCh – Smart Approaches for Detergents in a Fast Changing World
Chair: Prof. Dr. Dirk Bockmühl/Dr. Felix Müller
14:30 - 15:00
Molecular Simulations of Detergents: From Molecules to Formulations
Dr. Stephan Köhler, BASF SE
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) After decades of successful innovation, many home and personal care products are very complex and finely tuned formulations to achieve the high level of performance customers expect. However, in a global economy, many companies are quickly developing new products based on customer demands. To stay competitive in such a rapidly-changing environment BASF uses various digital technologies to speed up the development process and thus to support their customers and partners. Here, we will give an overview of how data analysis, high throughput computing, machine learning, and coarse-grained simulations can be used to support the development of novel detergent formulations. We will show how high throughput computing can be coupled with machine learning techniques to identify promising molecules. The behavior of these molecules in a detergent formulation can be investigated using coarse grained simulation. Such simulations can also be employed to study their washing performance. Additionally, machine learning techniques can be applied on historic data to optimize whole formulation.
15:00 - 15:30
Presentation of GDCh Division Group Award, Oral Presentation of the Young Academics Award Winner
Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: English
16:00 - 16:30
Adsorption Behavior of Surface-Active CO2/EO Compounds at the Oil/Water Interface and Their Solubilization Potential
Vivian J Spiering, Technical University of Berlin
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents (European Detergents Conference) Using CO2 as a resource in the production of materials is a viable alternative to conventional, petroleum-based raw materials and therefore offers great potential for sustainable chemistry.This study presents the characterizatio of non-ionic dodecyl surfactants with different CO2 content in the ethylene oxide (EO) head group,with respect to their self-assembly behaviour and their adsorption behaviour at the oil/water interface and the resulting application potential.The CO2-containing surfactants show similar characteristic molecular self-assembly behaviour in aqueous solution to conventional non-ionic surfactants; they form micelles,the shape of which is temperature dependent, and they possess the properties relevant for practical applications. The CO2 units render the surfactants somewhat more hydrophobic, thereby lowering their CMC´s.Interestingly, for higher CO2 content,the surfactants lose their tendency to form liquid crystalline phases, thereby having substantially lower viscosi ies.This renders them much easier to handle at high concentrations, which is an important advantage for practical applications. In this study we present the characterization of these CO2 containing surface active compounds with respect to their adsorption properties at the oil/water interface. Understanding the adsorption behavior is an essential aspect of surfactants and their potential application potential. The corresponding HLB values of the CO2 containing surfactants gives already detailed information about the application potential.The CO2 unit plays an important role as an additional tuning parameter to specifically control the surfactant properties. With the understanding of the adsorption behavior furthe application examples can be tested. For instant Surfactants can be rather effective "solubilizers" of water-insoluble molecules such as Oil or pharm ceutical drug molecules.The solubilization potential of the CO2- containing surfactant as solubilizer of oil or drug molecules is an interesting aspect considering the impact of the CO2 unit.These practical advantages,combined with a less environmentally damaging production method, demonstrate that CO2-containing su face-active compounds are a via alternative to conventional non-ionic surfactants.
16:30 - 17:00
General Meeting of the GDCh Division Detergent Chemistry
Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Spoken Language: German
17:00 - 18:00
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Award Ceremony (EDC, Foyer 1)
Moderated by Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Award Ceremony (EDC) Date: Wednesday, 23 October 2019 Time: 17:00 - 18:00 Location: Foyer 1 Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
09:00 - 09:15
AMBERSTEM™ – an Eco-conscious Active Ingredient Designed to Beautify Olive Skin Complexions
Dr. Sarah Pütsch, Sederma GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care AMBERSTEMTM is a plant cell culture extract of Buddleja Davidii, known as the butterfly-bush, providing a new glow to olive-toned skins. Olive complexion is associated with skin phototypes III to V and is distributed worldwide among multiple ethnic groups including Latin America, Middle East, South East Asia and the Mediterranean region. This skin type is recognised as hyper-inflammatory and hypersensitive promoting pro-inflammatory hyperpigmentations and a dull and greenish complexion. As an eco-conscious, COSMOS-compliant active ingredient, AMBERSTEMTM reduces inflammatory hyperpigmentations, dullness and redness, due to its anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and its pigmentation control inhibiting the melanin production. In addition, AMBERSTEMTM reinforces the skin barrier and improves hydration by stimulating the hyaluronic acid synthesis. A clinical study confirmed that the application of a cream containing 2% AMBERSTEMTM for one month leads to fading of dark areas and a reduction in skin redness. The majority of the volunteers noticed a decrease in the intensity of dark areas and recognised their skin as more luminous and well moisturised. AMBERSTEMTM evens the skin tone and fades dark areas providing a lucent and healthy amber tone for olive complexions. Plant cell culture is a safe and eco-designed technology, which allows access to a wide range of plant extracts showing the highest reduction in terms of water consumption and negligible soil occupation to preserve the natural balance of the ecosystem. Sederma has developed an in-depth knowledge in this technology and offers a broad range of active ingredients with a defined and reproducible composition and proven efficacy.
09:15 - 09:30
Understanding and Nurturing Exposomes
Dr. Nora Schiemann, IMCD Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Every human being has an individual exposome, due to different environmental impacts and the individual lifestyle. More and more it becomes clear how much people react to environmental impacts and their exposures are constantly influenced by the sun, temperature influences, lifestyle and in particular by air pollution, water quality, stress and allergens. Different active ingredient concepts address important desired functions of cosmetics. There are effective active ingredients from nature, be it plant extracts or oils from domestic plants, which have advantages over known oils from distant countries.
09:30 - 09:45
Choice is Beautiful – Creating the Texture you Like while Reducing the Amount of Ingredients
Dr. Petra Kudla, Momentive Performance Materials GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Looking at cosmetic innovations, unique textures play a significant role. At the same time, formulators are challenged to use less ingredients in their formulations to meet current market trends or to reduce their overall raw material portfolio altogether. Momentive’s Beauty Industry Award finalist 2019, Silsoft EAU microgel, helps enable formulators to address market trends while having the freedom to design the texture of their choice. Silsoft EAU microgel’s versatile character opens opportunities to create a whole variety of different textures - from very light milky lotions, to quick breaking refreshing creams or even non tacky butters. Due to it’s self-emulsfiying nature it may also be used as an excellent candidate for pigment dispersion in color cosmetics or as emulsion stabilizer in skin care. Consequently, Silsoft EAU microgel brings the beauty of choice back to formulators while limiting the amount of overall ingredients needed.
09:45 - 10:00
Robust Emulsification for Creams and Lotions by Pair2Phase
Dr. Martin Husmann, Schill+Seilacher GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The presentation will give an insight on how to boost up the stability of oil in water emulsions by Pair2Phase products. The conventional way to understand stabilization of emulsions by surface active agents is sometimes far away from reality. You might wonder that a thin lotion imparts a gel-like flow behavior without any addition of polymers. Large oil droplets stay stable which should theoretically rise to the surface. Only the addition of unusual small emulsifier amounts leads to an outstanding stabilization effect. The emulsion regulates water balance on the skin similar to the way cell membranes do. In this case, you might have formed a system whereas molecules are arranged in lamellar structures. COSMOS and NaTrue certified Pair2Phase products contain potassium cetyl phosphate embedded in wax-like matrix. This product series is designed to show welcoming synergistic effects. It can give extraordinary robustness in terms of emulsification which is originated by the tendency to form self-assembled lamellar surfactant phases. Besides this, tests proved that sunscreeens containing Pair2Phase show much better water resistance compared to the reference.
10:00 - 10:15
Efficient Product Protection for Modern Cosmetic Formulation with pH Flexibility
Bernd Heinken, Symrise
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care In an environment where the list of allowable preservatives keeps shrinking and public opinion is a main driver in formulation decisions, the cosmetic formulators are trying to remove/reduce controversial or restricted ingredients from cosmetic and personal care products. Cosmetic wipes manufacturers have traditionally used parabens, isothiazolinones and formaldehyde-donors for preservation which were easy to formulate with and affordable, and provided broad spectrum antimicrobial action. Often, these classical chemistries are replaced by aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol which are regarded as safe and effective options in wipes. Due to their inherent weakness to yeast and molds, they are often accompanied by organic acids and their combinations such as benzoic, sorbic, dehydroacetic acids. While this combination of aromatic alcohol and organic acid is providing broad spectrum antimicrobial efficacy, it severely limits the formulator with respect to pH range, as organic acids generally require low pH environments. Symrise has developed broad spectrum preservative blends (SymOcide®...) based on benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol that allow for optimal pH flexibility for the formulator. Aromatic alcohols combined with chelating agents, antioxidants and other multifunctional ingredients provide an excellent alternative to commonly used organic acid blends.
10:15 - 10:30
New Preservative Options for Today’s Personal Care and Cosmetic Products
Dr. Bahar Azimipour, DuPont Nutrition and Biosciences
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Preservatives play an important role in preventing microbial contamination to ensure product integrity and consumer safety. While the present palette of allowed preservatives in personal care has been significantly reduced due to restrictions imposed by regulations, retailer and consumer negative perception, there is a growing demand for solutions suitable for natural formulations. A newer preservative, Ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl (LAE®), derived from natural ingredients is an excellent option. LAE® is naturally derived and listed as a preservative on Annex V of the European Cosmetics Products Regulation. LAE® provides broad spectrum activity and is environmentally friendly, non-sensitizing and non-irritating. In this presentation the author will provide some formulation guidelines and application examples of the preservative effectiveness of LAE®.
11:00 - 11:15
OLEA VITAE PLF – Signal Lipids – Stimulation of Mitochondrial Synapses Counteracts Energetic Cell Aging
Karsten Lingen, novoclon GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care OLEA VITAE PLF is a powerful revitalizer of mature skin, that uses specific signalling lipids from plant cell membranes to activate the skin's energy rejuvenation cycles, recharging its internal batteries, the mitochondria, connecting them to work in unison. It fights energetic ageing as well as its visible external effects, through the stimulation of Mitochondrial Synapses, a new mechanism of action that guarantees energy quality even in the most adverse circumstances (hormonal aging), resulting in an astonishing anti-wrinkle, firming and repairing effect. - Triggering cell revival - Powerful revitalizer of aged skin - Re-charging cell internal batteries - New mechanism of action: mitochondrial synapses - Innovation Zone Best Ingredient GOLD Award (In-Cosmetics 2019) The active offers a new approach for skin treatment, through its resuscitation (cellular revival), targeting energetic ageing, through an innovative mechanism of action (energy recharge through activation of the mitochondrial synapses/ fusion). This is based on recent discoveries (2018) of the importance of mitochondrial dynamics for cellular and cutaneous vitality. The active has been developed with a new technology (PLF) based on obtaining cellular lipid plasma/fractions. In OLEA VITAE PLF lipids are characterized by their mitochondrial network regulatory ability. These lipid fractions act in synergy, which makes of the ingredient a multi-active of high efficacy: It works even in skins that are most affected by hormonal deficit (wrinkles and roughness, density, firmness, hydration) Moreover, the active offers a wide use profile for all kind of treatments: facial and body, hair, unisex. It is also easy to incorporate in cosmetic formulations (water, ethanol and oil), and suitable for cold processes, and totally suitable for formulation of natural and ecological products.
11:15 - 11:30
AqStar™ M1 – a Naturally-derived Solution to the Formulator’s Dilemma
Jose Martinez-Santiago, Aqdot
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care AqStar™ M1 is a naturally-derived, high-performing, flexible emulsifier that brings distinctive aesthetics to a wide range of oil-in-water emulsion formulations for hand, face, and body, and offers an exciting solution to the formulators’ quest for more natural products with new and pleasing aesthetics. Naturally-derived, ISO 16128, non-GMO, and 90% plant-based, AqStar™ M1 has achieved Platinum Material Health Certification (MHC) from the Cradle to Cradle® Products Innovation Institute, demonstrating that its constituents are fully optimised towards safer materials. AqStar™ M1 combines innovative, proprietary Aq™Bit technology with lipophilic starch to deliver multi-mechanism emulsion stability via charge, steric, and interfacial-network interactions. It accommodates polar and non-polar emollients of any HLB requirement (including fragrance and essential oils), challenging aqueous ingredients (including extracts and preservatives) across a wide pH range, and high levels of inorganic pigments, particulates, microbeads and micro-capsules. AqStar™ M1 emulsions show slight elasticity, enabling consistent and easy coverage on the skin, and providing flow without drip, stickiness, sliminess or stringiness. The high homogeneity of oil droplet size in AqStar™ M1 emulsions results in high gloss, prestige formulations, ranging from light lotions to rich creams. Products dispense well from sprays, pumps, airless pumps, tubes, bottles, and jar. The ‘Foundation to Remember’ oil-in-water foundation series showcases the advantages and distinctive, elegant aesthetics of AqStar™ M1. With consistent coverage on the skin, high gloss, long wear, and a distinctive ‘matte’ feel, “Foundation to Remember” offers naturally-derived benefits with the characteristics of water-in-oil performance. A fresher feel, easy application, high bio-based, silicone-free formulation, with excellent coverage, and combined colour and sun protection, “Foundation to Remember” shows how AqStar™ M1 helps formulators turn the table on convention.
11:30 - 11:45
Smart Microbiological Solutions Inspired from the Food Industry
Caroline Marlier, Gustav Grolman GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care For a long time biocides like parabens or MIT have been standard preservatives due to their high efficiency at low use level. Over the last years consumers have been more and more informed requesting milder, less toxic solutions with less allergic reactions up to no preservative. As a consequence, a new generation of preservative systems and multifunctional ingredients has emerged on the market, requiring a different approach on how to use preservatives, as one preservative system can no longer be a universal solution for all formulations. This has already been the case in the food industry, and Chemipol has applied a strategy coming from there, to design new solutions for the best possible protection. It often implies the use of a booster which has been thoroughly chosen for its low toxicity profile and good efficiency. This booster is very mild and is already widely used in the food industry. Furthermore, applying this strategy has allowed them to develop a range of “preservative free” products containing different “barriers” to limit the development of microorganisms which have been tested for their efficiency in cosmetic formulations. These products offer mild and efficient solutions to the customer in accordance with market demands.
11:45 - 12:00
An Original Anti-Inflammatory Activity of a Hydro-Alcoholic Extract of Centaurea Cyanus
Dr. Christophe Carola, Merck KGaA
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Corn flower (Centaurea cyanus L.) belongs to the family Asteraceae, native to Europe. After a first extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide, a hydro-alcoholic extract of the remaining oilcake from Centaurea cyanus was prepared and was titrated at 1% or at 3% of feruloyl-serotonin. Several in vitro experiments in different cell models were carried out to evaluate the anti-inflammatory potential of this extract: First, inflammation was induced in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) with the chemokines CCL17 and CCL22. The gene expression of several cytokines secreted by keratinocytes in this type of inflammation was significantly down-regulated in the presence of the corn flower extract. Then a screening assay was designed to identify high affinity neutraligands of CCL17 and CCL22. In this assay, feruloyl-serotonin was identified as a neutraligand of CCL22 and compounds in the Corn flower extract acted as neutraligand of CCL17. By neutralizing these chemokines, the corn flower extract could contribute to reducing the reoccurrence of a chronical inflammation. Additionally, an ex vivo experiment was designed with HUVEC cells. Inflammation of these endothelial cells was triggered with TNF-a leading to expression of adhesion molecules at their surfaces. The monocyte recruitment assay performed with and without the extract showed a significant partial blocking of the adhesion and of the transmigration step of monocytes in the presence of the extract. Thus, the corn flower extract prevents an inflammatory overreaction. Then, a first clinical study (curative mode) was carried out on 27 volunteers. In the self-assessment evaluation, a statistically significant redness reduction was observed after 1-week application of the formulation containing corn flower in comparison to placebo. Finally, a second clinical study (preventive mode) coupled to a suction blister (to monitor in vivo biomarkers) was also carried out on 80 volunteers. The results of this last clinical study will also be presented.
12:15 - 12:30
Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS: Enhancement of a Well-Proven Antimicrobial Multifunctional
Dr. Carsten Dietz, Cosphatec GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The requirements for Multifunctionals increased during the last years. A high number of positive functions including an antimicrobial efficiency and a broad conformity to natural certification labels are desired. Additionally, a customer-friendly handling and a high sustainability came into focus. The combination of levulinic acid and p-anisic acid has been well-proven in cosmetics including baby care products for over more than 10 years. The high efficiency and low irritation level are their big advantages, a challenging workflow caused by a low solubility is the disadvantage. Previous inventions showed that polyols are suitable to produce concentrated pre-mixtures but the content of actives is still limited in those mixtures. Cosphaderm® Sodium LAAS is a new improvement consisting of Sodium Levulinate and Sodium Anisate produced by spray drying. It dissolves easily in water and is therefore very user-friendly. A polyol is no longer needed and the number of actives is increased to the maximum. The result is minimized packaging and transportation costs as well as significantly reduced storage area without losing the benefits of an easy workflow and high efficiency.
12:30 - 12:45
BergaBright SmartLipids for Natural, Safe and Effective Whitening Technology
Dr. Sabilla Digel, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Glabridin is a high-performance whitening agent. Its elevated price, chemical instability and poor solubility in water and oil do, however, present formulators with major challenges. SmartLipids are the ideal innovation when it comes to enhancing the action of glabridin. SmartLipids are submicrometer lipid particles consisting of a complex mixture of solid waxes and liquid oils. The full range of action of glabridin can be exploited as it is protected physically from degradation caused by external factors such as light and oxygen. Furthermore, the patented technology of SmartLipids can support the natural skin barrier and increase the bioavailability of active dermal ingredients. Thanks to their submicrometer size and lipid properties, SmartLipids adhere well to the skin and guarantee prolonged release of the encapsulated glabridin. - Improved penetration and bioavailability of a natural liquorice root extract - Prolonged release of glabridin resulting in improved performance - Simple use and integration into formulations Find out how SmartLipids act on the skin and facilitate vastly enhanced penetration of the encapsulated active ingredient.
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Natural, naturally-derived or organic ingredients are perceived as purer and safer by consumers. In response to this need, producers are already mixing an increasingly large portion of naturally-based ingredients into their formulations. This trend is expected to continue to intensify due to growing consumer knowledges and higher eco-conscious demands. In this talk, Solvay will feature a new bio-based conditioning polymer optimized for high sensorial performance out of crystal clear or transparent body cleansing and liquid soap products, the Jaguar® SOFT. It allows stabilizing foam making it firmer, more elastic, and contributing to also making the whole sensorial experience more pleasurable.
14:30 - 14:45
Pellicer – a Natural Gemini Emulsifier with Positive Impact on Skin and Hair
Ann-Katrin Wienecke, Safic-Alcan Deutschland GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Pellicer is a gemini amphiphilic compound which has two hydrophobic tails and 3 hydrophilic groups, deriving from natural fatty acids and amino acids. Pellicer L-30 source materials are all plant derived. Any source material derive from petroleum or animals are not contained. Pellicer repairs damaged skin by permeating into stratum corneum and improves barrier function of skin through the similar function with Ceramide. It brings excellent texture like moisture feeling and penetration feeling. Moreover it penetrates into hair interior portion and improves strength, thickness, water content of damaged hair and gives resilience and smoothness. Pellicer expresses emulsification and dispersion function at very low concentration. Compared to nonionic surfactants, excels in texture and decreases emulsifying cost. Pellicer L-30 is also recommened for oil-gelation. Pellicer could be used in different kind of application like Skin Care, Hair care,Sun care and Baby care products.
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Nowadays sustainability is an important topic in the cosmetic industry. Solid cosmetics provide a sustainable alternative because they allow us to not only save water but also reduce the use of packaging. Anhydrous products are also more economical and last longer for the consumer. During our presentation we will show you how you can create new solid textures for all types of cosmetic applications. Discover our water- and aluminum-free deodorant stick made with BENTONE® Gel GTCC V for stabilization and both FARMAL™ MS 6135 and CAVAMAX® W8 for moisture and odor absorption. Thanks to Lipex SMP™ and Schercemol™ NGDO, it also feels great on the skin. Looking for a solid alternative for the shower? Our shower bar is based on caring emollients such as Lipex SheaSoft™ and Lipex CocoaSoft™ as well as the mild, solid surfactants LATHANOL® LAL Coarse and BIO-TERGE® AS-90 Coarse. With different active ingredients, colors and additives, we can create the right solution for every user. NatFlor® natural fragrances put the finishing touches on both of these featured formulations.
15:00 - 15:15
MaizeCare™ Style Polymer - Bio-Based Hair Fixative for Exceptional Humidity Resistance, Durability and Frizz Control
Charline Roche-Julien, DOW Silicones Belgium SPRL
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care The use and interest in “Natural” products have been on the rise in the beauty care industry. Consumers desire natural products, with a similar or better performance than their synthetic alternatives. Dow is excited to launch MaizeCare™ Style Polymer, a bio-based polymer derived from corn, that provides styling benefits across haircare. In formulation, MaizeCare™ Style Polymer acts as a transparent film-former and styling aid that can range from superior stiffness to soft-touch styling. In leave-on styling applications, this polymer delivers excellent performance in curl retention over polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and other corn starch product offerings, even at low concentration levels. When combined with a silicone, MaizeCare™ Style Polymer offers additional benefits such as increased volume, improved sensory, and enhanced healthy-looking hair after treatment. MaizeCare™ Style Polymer can be easily formulated into various product formats, including gels, waxes, creams and sprays which allows for creative textures and a customized consumer experience. Dow has several technologies across our portfolio that showcase superior results in hairstyling, making MaizeCare™ Style Polymer an exceptional alternative for "natural” styling that does not compromise performance. ™ Trademark of Dow or an affiliated company of Dow
15:15 - 15:30
Recovering a Younger Skin with a Green Biomimetic Energy Source
Mathias Fleury, Givaudan Active Beauty
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care The mitochondrial metabolism is a key source of energy for the skin cells. With ageing, the mitochondria produce less energy, causing skin fatigue, sagging and wrinkles. Coming from plant and activated by biotechnology, Agefinity™ is a natural and biomimetic source of energy which acts on the lower layer of the dermis to reshape the face and the neck (now defined as the “Y zone”). Agefinity™ allows to: -Reorganise skin matrix back to a younger skin -Visibly reduce dark spots and crow’s feet wrinkles -Reduce neck wrinkles to remodel the Y shape of the face. Agefinity™ is obtained from plant mannose, which is further activated by biocatalysis to generate Mannose-6-Phosphate, a human metabolite used to generate energy in skin cells. The efficacy of Agefinity™ has been demonstrated by using the pioneering and innovative technology called Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM). By scanning the surface of skin cells and skin sections with AFM, it has been demonstrated that Agefinity™ helps reorganizing the collagen fibres from a 65 year old donor at a better cohesion level than collagen fibres from a 30 years old donor in 8 days. Several clinical studies have been performed on 44 volunteers to demonstrate the multiple anti-ageing benefits of Agefinity™. This biomimetic energy source significantly stimulates relative collagen density compared to placebo with an increase up to 3.8 folds. It induces a significant reduction of crow’s feet wrinkle number, down to -11.5% and of the neck wrinkle volume and depth, respectively down to -32.5% and -8.3% versus placebo. 74% of our panel found the skin of their neck firmer (vs 45% for placebo) and 84% felt convinced by the effect of the product at the end of the trial (vs 60% for placebo).
16:00 - 16:15
A New Modern Environmentally Friendly, 100% Natural Anionic Surfactant for Ultra-Mild, Even Tear-Free Rinse-Off Formulations
Ina Wierichs, BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Sustainability is one of our driving forces in the development of new surfactants. There is an increasing demand for natural, sustainable, renewable and readily biodegradable products. Using natural, renewable raw materials in the production of surfactants is one important step to fulfill the sustainability demands from the market. Suitable solutions not containing EO but at the same time being ultra-mild to skin and mucous membrane, even suitable for tear-free formulations in baby products and providing a creamy, rich foam is possible to formulate with Texapon SFA, a Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate. Our new gentle product is suitable for sulfate surfactant alternative concepts whilst being long-term stable in a wide temperature and pH range; ideally suited for formulations with a low pH (4.5 – 5.5). Texapon SFA acts as a conditioning booster as it enhances the conditioning performance of cationic polymers in shampoos and enables even high cationic polymers to deposit on hair. Good wet combability results were achieved even without any polymers present in shampoo formulations containing Texapon SFA. Accompanied by a co-surfactant (ideally Cocamidopropyl Betaine and/or Alkyl Polyglucoside) a cold processable, easy-to-formulate blend enables clear formulations. Texapon SFA with its unique properties, e.g. an excellent temperature and pH stability, low CMC, ability for micellar thickening and a very low irritation potential for skin and mucous membrane makes it a useful surfactant for several applications and industries, e.g. as an additive in construction applications (e.g. dry mortars) and in personal care rinse-off applications (e.g. shampoo, shower gel, syndet bars,…) as well as home care applications (rim-blocks,…).
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Darkenyl™ is a natural and advanced hair repigmenting active ingredient. Inspired by stem cells, it has been rationally designed to counteract the hair greying biological process, regardless of gender, by combining two synergistic molecules: a modified plant polyphenol (taxifolin glucoside) which triggers the hair follicle stem cells to pro-duce new melanocytes, while protecting cells from free radicals ; and a soluble precursor of melanin synthesis (N-acetyl-tyrosine) to reactivate melanogenesis. The loss of pigmentation in the hair shaft (or canitie) is one of the most obvious sign of ageing with hair loss, and one of the main beauty concern for men and women. The progressive loss of hair colour is due to 3 interacting factors: accumulation of free radicals, diminution of the number of melanocytes in the hair matrix, and decrease of melanin production by hair melanocytes. Darkenyl™ contains taxifolin glucoside, a unique stabilized polyphenol shown to reactivate hair bulge stem cells proliferation (+30%) and migration to help repopulating the hair matrix with new melanocytes. Its antioxidant properties enable to reduce free radical damages in hair follicles (-54%) and helps protecting existing melanocytes (+190%). Once the hair matrix has been repopulated with new melanocytes and that both new and existing melanocytes are protected from ROS, Darkenyl™ delivers its melanin synthesis precursor (N-acetyl tyrosine) to reactivate melanogenesis (+364%). A clinical study versus placebo using white hair counting on hairlines and white hair density calculation on a scalp shaved area have demonstrated the significant consumers’ benefits of Darkenyl™: in 4 months, vol-unteers had 3 times less white hair/cm2 in 4 months, with up to -50% reduction of white hair.
16:30 - 16:45
Ganother: The Mushroom of Immortality – a New Challenge for Healthy Hair and Hair Growth
Caroline Marlier, Gustav Grolman GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Hair loss can affect both men and women. The most common cause of hair loss is called androgenic alopecia or pattern hair loss. By the age of 50, it affects 50% of men and 25% of women. When it affects male, the hair loss primarily occurs on the top and the front of the scalp. In females it is more diffuse and causes a thinning of hair without hair line recession, and it rarely leads to total hair loss. Alopecia is often accompanied by an irritated scalp therefore treatment should address both issues: it should have a soothing effect on the scalp to create the best conditions for potential new hair growth and prevent further hair loss.Ganother is an extract of Ganoderma lucidom mushroom also called the mushroom of immortality. It has been used for centuries in Japan and other Asian countries for health benefits. It is rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes conferring the products interesting properties. It has been shown to stimulate protein synthesis in hair dermal papilla fibroblasts therefore stimulating the follicle growth in the early anagene phase and to inhibit the enzyme 5α-reductase responsible for the transformation of testosterone into DHT. Finally it has been shown to have a radical scavenging activity thus inhibiting sebum and protein oxidation on the scalp and having a soothing effect.
16:45 - 17:00
Measurement Technology for a Better Understanding of Foaming
Martin Hoffmann, SITA Messtechnik GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Although foam or foamability is an established quality feature for various surfactant-containing liquids in cosmetics and cleaner production, reliable measurability for product development and quality assurance is always a complex challenge. Especially the poor reproducibility and subjectivity of most test procedures leads to hardly reliable results which roughly reflect the complexity of foam. With the launch of the SITA Foamtester R-2000 more than 15 years ago, an automated and reproducible test procedure was available for the first time. At that time, the measurement was limited to the foam volume during foam creation and decay. In the new generation of the SITA FoamTester, far more foam parameters are recorded and evaluated.The presented work discusses which parameters could be used for an efficient product development and quality assurance by the example of different shampoo formulations . Whereby, the comparison to tactile properties, as analysed in elaborate panel tests, is of basic interest. In conventional, standardized test methods such as the Ross-Miles method (ASTM D1173), the test conditions and thus the resulting foam are usually far from application. However, since there are no general test parameters for the differentiation of different formulations of shampoos, soaps or cleaners, the example shows how concentration, temperature and stirring speed influence the resulting foam. The aim is to ensure that changes in quality are actually reflected in the foam tests by the correct choice of test conditions.
17:00 - 17:15
EU Regulation 2019/831: Significance, Challenges and Opportunities for the Cosmetics Industry - Borate-Free Guar Derivatives
Dr. Simon Diezi, Polygal AG
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and the Council on cosmetic products was a milestone in the harmonisation of cosmetics legislation in the European Community and still forms the basis for the essential requirements and obligations for cosmetic products today. In May 2019, Regulation (EU) 2019/831 amended the annexes to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. With this amendment, borates, including boric acid, were newly added to annex II (substances that are banned) due to an expert opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety SCCS from 2013. So far, these compounds have been listed in annex III (substances which may only be included subject to restrictions). According to these adjustments, which are valid from and come into force 12 June 2019, borates may no longer be included in cosmetic aids or cosmetic products. Guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (both INCI terms) have been used for decades not only for their efficient rheology peculiarity, but also for their natural, conditioning properties in shampoos, conditioners, shower gels and soaps. Borates, especially boric acid, are traditionally used as production aids, albeit in low concentrations. Although Polygal AG is a young company in the world of cosmetics, borate-containing guar derivatives, in particular various guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride grades (also known industrially as cationic guar gum) have been able to be produced completely borate-free. These new borate-free grades from Polygal AG can be used without problems in a so-called one-to-one exchange, without performance limitations in use or formulation or adjustment of the production process or set-up of the respective cosmetic agents such as shampoos. This allows an existing cosmetic formulation to be converted in a resource-efficient, fast and secure way in order to fully comply with the latest EU legislation.
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care We will address the biology of hair follicles (HF) with special focus on hair follicle stem cells (HFSC) function and maintenance. In scalp, HFSCs are required for HF cycling, keratinized hair shaft production and wound healing. Scalp aging leads to the production of thinner hairs as well as reduced number of hairs, together with graying and hair loss. Recent studies on aging-induced hair thinning and loss have identified stem cell elimination as the main mechanism controlling hair follicle activity. Accumulated DNA damage with age in HFSCs induces the proteolysis of the hemidesmosome component Collagen XVII (COL17A1) by neutrophil elastase. In each new hair growth cycle, these COL17A1 depleted stem cells leave their niche and terminally differentiate into epidermal keratinocytes, leading to the miniaturization of hair follicle. HF miniaturization in turn promotes the visible effects of hair aging. Although miniaturization of HFs was believed to be a specific phenomenon in androgenic alopecia, these studies show that HFs do also miniaturize during aging. However, the molecular mechanisms underlying these two conditions differ. Interestingly, new studies show that stem cell competition and elimination also orchestrates general skin homeostasis, offering a new approach for skin rejuvenating strategies. By using this approach we have developed a new active with anti-aging scalp properties based on Phyllantus emblica extracts.
09:00 - 09:15
Multifunctionals to Elevate Home Care Product Performance and Boost Preservation Robustness
Kelly Pippine, Emerald Kalama Chemical
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care /Additives, Multifunctionals Consumers are driving more transparency in household product formulations and, ultimately, fewer ingredients on the label. In addition, today’s formulators face challenges due to a shrinking preservatives palette, with consumer pressure and regulatory restrictions making many traditional options impractical. Multifunctionals present opportunity to achieve solutions to these challenges. This presentation will discuss the impact of surfactant selection on preservation efficacy of organic acids such as Kalaguard® SB. In addition, data will be reviewed for ingredients that can enhance cleaning, stain removal, and formulation stability, while also boosting the performance of organic acid preservatives.
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Other The continuing trend towards increasingly energy-efficient washing machines leads to a steady decrease in washing temperatures far below 50 ° C. This leads to the fact that bacteria and fungi are no longer sufficiently killed in the washing machines. The formation of bad odors through biofilm formation is the result. Furthermore, biofilm formation is negatively favored by the ever increasing use of liquid detergents instead of powdered detergents. In contrast to powders, liquid detergents generally require a prservative system. Preservatives are covered by the Biocidal Products Regulation, as well as other marketing aspects, such as e.g. Ecolabel strongly limited, so that the use represents an ever greater hurdle in the formulation of detergents. Besides the sustainable and sensible use of preservation systems it is all the more important to use the potential of a preservative system besides the preservation of detergents during storage.
09:30 - 09:45
Mannnan Removal Performance for all Liquid Formats and under Tough Conditions
Arnaud Cartier, Novozymes A/S
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Worldwide Liquid detergents have been on the rise to the detriment of powder format. In Europe consumer demand for convenience and the increase sustainability focus of retailers have facilitated the emergence of compact detergents and installed the category of compact and liquid tablet as the most growing formats those past years. Formulating a liquid detergent is known as not always easy but formulating a liquid compact or super compact liquid detergent represents its own additional challenges. Novozymes has developed since many years the most robust enzymes for tough conditions, innovations such as Progress Uno and Amplify Prime can demonstrate it. But with consumers still focus on wash performance and the premiumization induced by liquid compaction, it’s more important than ever to offer the full wash performance that enzymes can bring to a laundry compact detergent. Novozymes new Mannaway® 200 L delivers unprecedented robustness across detergents formats and under tough conditions: compact detergent, water-rich detergents, detergents with high pH. You can now have access to Mannaway stain removal power across all laundry category, boost your value proposition and have peace of mind when having to formulate a new detergent, especially when looking at more compaction.
09:45 - 10:00
Sustainable Cleaning: Enzyme Efficacy in Automatic Dishwashing Under Stressed Conditions
Sander Kluit, DuPont Nutrition & Biosciences
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents The industry trend towards more sustainable cleaning affects both appliance manufacturers and detergent formulators. In automatic dishwashing the main wash temperature used in the IKW test protocol has been gradually reduced from 55 to 45 °C. Detergent manufacturers have developed product formats that dissolve faster and are highly concentrated to reduce the chemical load. New “green” chelants have been introduced as alternative for sodium tripolyphosphate. Enzymes – being produced by fermentation and acting as bio-catalysts – have contributed to sustainable dishwashing for many years. Their efficacy in automatic dishwashing is influenced by multiple factors such as cycle length, water hardness and temperature, product dissolution rate, and in-wash physical properties. The interaction between these factors on the cleaning performance of enzymes is not always fully understood. In this presentation the author will provide some application examples to illustrate enzyme-detergent interaction, and how DuPont is using modern biotechnology to develop enzymes that are tailored towards the needs of a sustainable dishwashing industry
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Care Agents Sustainability is integral to everything we do. From the raw materials we source and the way we use them, to the ingredients we create, we believe in being a responsible company. Our sustainable fabric protection ingredients are no different. Once fabric softeners were simply a vehicle to deliver fragrance and anti-static properties to garments however, consumers are now demanding addiitional performance attributes from these products. With the correct performance additive, sustainable fabric protection leading to clothes that look and feel better for longer periods of time is now available. Our novel biopolymer that is substantive to fibres, delivers total fabric protection giving longer lasting benefits to garments. Limiting the damage from the washing and drying process, our protein-based technology delivers colour protection, reduced greying of whites and fibre protection to keep garments looking newer for longer. Not only this, but with increased recognition of embedded carbon in Home Care supply chains, we are able to review and provide the intrinsic and extrinsic sustainability benefits of our products which are becoming increasingly important for consumers.
10:15 - 10:30
QUATIN® – A Sustainable and User-Friendly Cationic Biopolymer for Fabric Care Formulations
Sam van den Berg, Cosun Biobased Products
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents Cationic biopolymers are increasingly used within the fabric and personal care industry. The main purpose is to neutralize negative charges on fabrics, hair and skin, and to deposit all types of actives onto a surface. The combination of a natural polymer backbone with a cationic charge make these biopolymers a greener solution to traditional fossil based chemicals. Hence, they comply with the trend towards more natural and sustainable ingredients. QUATIN® is a functionalized inulin polymer and is a novel ingredient for the above-mentioned industries. Moreover, it can be considered as a frontrunner in sustainability because of its biodegradability. This is primarily caused by the inulin backbone which is a naturally occurring polysaccharide extracted from chicory roots. In this presentation the focus is on fabric care although QUATIN® proved already its great added value in personal care. QUATIN® is a highly water soluble cationic biopolymer. It is supplied as an (40 wt.%) active solution in water and is therefore easy to formulate with. It demonstrates excellent softening and static reduction performance in 2-1 laundry detergents and fabric softeners, and is highly compatibility with a wide range of surfactants. QUATIN® is considered as the next generation ingredient for softening: high performing, user-friendly and sustainable.
11:00 - 11:15
FRAMES – a Novel On-line Formulation Intelligence Platform
Dr. Roel Hermant, Frames Formulation Intelligence
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Information about on-shelf Home & Personal Care product compositions and costs is restricted. Being in the center of innovation and cost-performance competition, this info is typically proprietary domain and not readily accessible. Formulation information is limited to on-pack declaration, with ingredients lists and occasional MSDS that can be accessed by internet. Raw material prices typically are variable depending on volumes, material specifics, country-region-geography and manufacturing - supply chain set up. This limitation of on shelf product composition and cost, hampers raw material innovation, R&D and business development. Market representative formulations are not available for raw material suppliers, industry - consumer organisations or test institutes. As in any FMCG Industry, product formulations change frequently and existing reference formulations become outdated and less representative. A wide range of HPC formulations have been used-proposed by a equally wide range of raw material suppliers. There is however no basis to relate these to current market reality and cost models. FRAMES is a novel on-line Formulation Intelligence Platform that gives access to on-shelf and model HPC product compositions and costs. Information is derived from public information sources and combined with expert judgements on levels & costs. Based on a single database, FRAMES reveals fast moving formulation development over time, use of specific formulation ingredients depending on product format, country-region-geography and time and proposes market relevant model formulations. Examples are given for Laundry powders and liquids (incl superconcentrates, capsules), hand dish liquids and ADW tablets.
11:15 - 11:30
#speed #simplicity #solutions for the Home Care and I&I Industry
Sven Biermann, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Digitalization #speed #simplicity #solutions for the Home Care and I&I Industry In recent years, digitalization is all around us. Having stormed our private lives, it will not stop short in front of our industry. With ever shortening lead times and a “quick to market”-mentality, players in the Home Care and I&I Industry constantly face new challenges. Stakeholders in todays’ demanding market environment need fast answers, convenient solutions and access to reliable intelligence. BASF therefore developed a Virtual Industry Assistant. The platform is designed to facilitate access to overarching topics in the Home Care and I&I Industry while providing round-the-clock virtual help with questions and solutions. We are delighted to introduce you to RedisoTM, your personal assistant to support you to be more efficient and thus more successful in your daily business.
11:30 - 11:45
Safe and Sustainable Solutions for Easy Cleaning and Shine of all Hard Surfaces
David Grandeau, Solvay
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents, Surface Modification As today’s consumers are looking for more sustainable cleaning solutions, Solvay introduces two innovative solutions that aim to answer tomorrow’s needs. In a world where consumer awareness is rising and where controversial chemicals become more and more limited, we have developed Mirapol Surf-SⓇ 900, a novel surface cleaning additive free of any biocide. Mirapol Surf-S 900 brings durable hydrophilization of hard surfaces such as ceramic, glass or stainless steel to power-up your surface cleaners with extra-shine, easier next-time cleaning, or continuous cleaning action. Furthermore Mirapol Surf-SⓇ 900 answers trend for safer ingredients, is compatible with EU Ecolabel and preservative-free. Moreover, at Solvay we understand that consumers today want to go beyond the classic sustainability criteria, and more and more towards natural-based home care products. Our innovation Mirapol Surf-NⓇ HSC is a naturally-derived ingredient, 100% active and preservative-free, that supports the transition towards efficient natural-based surface cleaners. With an RCI of 76%, Mirapol Surf-NⓇ HSC specifically targets modern plastic surfaces and brings benefits such as spot- and streak-free cleaning, faster drying and greasy soil release, three key unmet needs when it comes to cleaning plastics. Mirapol Surf-SⓇ 900 and Mirapol Surf-NⓇ HSC are designed by our laboratories to answer tomorrow’s need which is a safe, natural and convenient cleaning. By combining the power of each solution, you are able to tailor an ultimate sustainable system that will be universal to all surfaces and bring attributes such as sparkling surfaces, easier next-time cleaning, longer-lasting clean effect and faster drying.
11:45 - 12:00
Water Soluble Odour Neutraliser with Improved Performance and Compatibility
Dr. Gernot Marten, Croda GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Odour Neutralisation Zinc based odor neutralisers offer effective and irreversible binding of a range of malodours in Household and Industrial applications. In 2017, Croda introduced Zinador 22L, a water soluble,100% bio-based odour neutraliser for use in a range of aqueous cleaners, detergents and industrial odour neutralising applications. We now introduce a second generation zinc based neutraliser, Zinador 35L, with even higher performance. This product still offers >80% bio-based content, but now features significantly higher zinc concentration in addition to enhanced compatibility in both high pH and high ionic strength cleaning formulations. Zinador 35L is completely water soluble and is ideal for incorporation into liquid laundry formulations or other highly concentrated products. Odour neutralisation testing with the new product shows significantly higher performance versus competitive products in an ammonia odour model, as well as in consumer panel testing. Zinador 35L expands Croda’s range of odour neutralizing products and now allows direct incorporation into a wider range of applications to satisfy the growing demand for malodour control in the market.
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Thickeners Nowadays, in a very cost-sensitive environment, ingredients are expected to deliver undisputable benefits in formulations. Even more, they are often expected to deliver multiple benefits across several performance features of the end-product profile. Within that context, polymers and rheology modifiers in particular are tremendous tools for formulators to meet their objectives by combining the rheology/texture benefits with additional consumer perceivable attributes. In order to address the formulation challenges in various home and fabric care formats, Dow has developed throughout the years a toolbox of polymers of various chemistries. Our families of acrylates, polyurethanes and cellulosic polymers enable to bring easy solutions for cost-effective formulations with stability, enhanced aesthetics as well as in-use performance by controlling release of some ingredients, providing visual stimuli such as foam quality and outstanding cleaning performance.
12:30 - 12:45
Fighting the Root Cause of Malodor – Reaching True Laundry Freshness, Naturally!
Dr. Kirsten Vaever Jokumsen, Novozymes
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents For many years, the core purpose of doing laundry was visible stain removal. And while this remains a priority for consumers, tackling another sensorial aspect – namely smell – is a rapidly growing challenge. Malodor forms in the clothes we wear due to microbial activity, particularly when we sweat. Even after washing, the malodor can linger in our clothes. That’s because when fabrics contact our skin, they absorb body soil, a range of sticky organic components that cling deep within the fabric fibers. The malodor is trapped in the body soil, and the problem builds up over time. On top of this, body soil also attracts dirt causing the graying we see – particularly on our whites. Traditional detergent cannot remove the body soil and, therefore, resort to masking the odor problem with perfume or other chemistry for temporary odor relief and/or whitening. Consumers deserve and demand an alternative to traditional chemistry to solve the growing problem of bad-smelling clothes. This is why Novozymes will show that removing the body soil itself – the root cause of the lingering malodor – with a biological solution, will help consumers experience true freshness, naturally.
12:45 - 13:00
Hygiene in Consumer Laundry – Challenges and Future Development
Prof. Jordan Petkov, Lonza
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Disinfectant Agents Used clothes and linen can contain a vast number of microorganisms. For example 5 million bacteria have been found per square inch from the underarm part of a T-shirt. The majority of these bacteria are harmless but some of them, Staphylococcus Aureus for example can cause skin lesions, pneumonia, or kidney infections1. The trend of energy saving in Laundry led to significant decrease of the temperature at which the wash is being run as well as the timing of the wash, both reducing the removal of the microorganisms during the wash/rinse. Another factor that need to be mentioned is the prevailing liquid formats of detergents that have grown significantly in the last 10-15 years. As a result the bleach that was part of the powder detergents is no longer available thus worsening the hygiene performance of nowadays’ detergents. Detergents’ performance with regard to cleaning has been improved over many years including the use of polymers and enzymes as well as chelators alongside the surfactants. Hygiene however, is relatively new challenge and one that would need a special approach to be addressed properly. At Lonza we have invested in better understanding the underpinning mechanisms of delivering hygiene either from the rinse or, potentially, from the main wash. In our presentation we will address the main challenges in the quest for hygiene in consumer laundry and will discuss possible ways forward based on the insight developed. 1. The Yearbook of Agriculture, 1965, p. 371
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Disinfectant Agents The recognition that our human microbiota (the microbes inhabiting our gut, respiratory tract, skin, etc) represents an organ essential to our health, has changed our view on the microbial world surrounding us. Furthermore, exposure to some of those ‘old friends’ in early childhood, helps us to build a healthy immune system and prevents us from autoimmune diseases. The buildup and care of a healthy microbiome are therefore important issues. The broad use of certain ingredients in cosmetics or cleaning products e.g. preservatives or biocides must therefore be seen critically. On the other hand, infectious diseases are a real burden to the society and some pathogens truly belong to the category ‘bad guys’. The increase in antibiotic resistances makes it already today difficult to treat some infectious diseases and this problem will increase in the upcoming years. Together with an aging society having a higher vulnerability to infections, cleaning and disinfection measures at home will become more important. The use of certain biocidal cleaning products will therefore grow in the future. In this presentation the complex linkage of sustainability needs, health risk, consumer perception and legislation will be discussed on the example of household laundry. Furthermore, it is shown, that green AND clean is not necessarily a discrepancy and a targeted hygiene approach might be a way out of the dilemma.
15:00 - 15:30
Reconsidering Efficacy: How Chemical, Biological and Technical Parameters Can Influence the Hygiene in Domestic Laundering
Jan Schages, Rhine-Waal University of Applied Sciences, University of Bonn
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / Detergents Hygiene plays an important role in domestic laundering, as infections might be transmitted via insufficiently decontaminated laundry items, especially when considering the continuing trend towards lower wash temperatures and the usage of liquid, bleach-free detergents. In Europe the standard EN 16616 is used as the predominant benchmark, although it`s mainly designed for the application for areas where a textile disinfection is necessary, e.g. the medical sector. Furthermore the EN 16616 was established for products applied in the main wash and so it does for example not include prewash or rinse cycles, neither does it respect household-specific parameters. This study investigated different factors in the domestic washing process that (apart from machine parameters and used chemistry) may affect the antimicrobial efficacy of laundering, e.g. the textile and the soil matrix.
16:00 - 16:30
The Micro-language of the Skin: Skin-Microbiota-Interactions as Basis for a Healthy Skin
Dr. Dominik Stuhlmann, Symrise AG, Holzminden
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care A constant cross-talk between the skin and the microbiota is characterized by • Barrier disruption and strengthening, • Pro and anti-inflammatory cascades, • Release of antimicrobial peptides for host defense etc. Thus, the microbiota is responsible for a healthy status and aspect of the skin. The skin microbiome is unique for each person, making it difficult to compare the compositions. It is also important to keep the healthy status of the individual symbiosis of skin and microbiota. For atopic dermatitis it is known that Staphylococcus aureus is upregulated in this skin disease. It is still discussed whether this disbalance in the microbiota is a result of barrier disruption due to loss of filaggrin in the patients suffering from atopic dermatitis. This is teaching us lessons about the importance of the skin barrier and the microbiota on top of it. Different approaches with probiotics and postbiotics are observed on the market to mimic this specific cross-talk. The beneficial effects of probiotics rely on the unique mix of molecules they deliver, but also the bacterium’s cell wall. Its structure and composition are recognized by the surface of skin’s cells and allow highly effective interactions – the micro-language of the skin. But the use of probiotics – according to definition always living microorganisms – in cosmetics is limited, on one hand due to regulation, on the other hand due to challenging formulation properties (without preservatives, with low water content, specific packaging etc.). Thanks to a unique process involving mild heat-treatment and spray drying of a specific Lactobacilli strain the cell wall of the bacterium is kept intact. In a non-living state, the bacterium can be used in preserved formulas circumventing the challenges of living probiotics. But with its original structure and full composition in place, the specifically processed probiotics deliver the native benefits associated with probiotics.
16:30 - 17:00
New Technologies for Specific Antiperspirant Actions
Jessica Welzel, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Other (Antiperspirants / Deodorants) Individualized cosmetics should provide tailor-made solutions for personal beauty needs resulting in a well-balanced quality-of-life. This can be achieved either by improving the outer appearance through beautifying each person’s natural and individual charisma or by repressing unpleasant individual attributes like inordinate sweating or smelling. Being the most important thermoregulatory mechanism in humans, sweating may be socially stigmatizing for certain individuals. Yet, biological mechanisms behind sweating and reasons for individual differences in sweat production are not well understood. The only effective cosmetic antiperspirant technology is based on the use of aluminum salts, which biophysically blocks the release of sweat from the sweat glands. To identify new antiperspirant ingredients acting specifically on the biology of the individual sweat process, sophisticated in vitro test systems need to be developed. Based on our experiences with the Phenion® human skin models, Henkel Beauty Care developed a three-dimensional in vitro cell model of the human eccrine sweat gland for screening of sweat-regulating bio-actives. Using the model, we investigated genetic patterns of sweat gland cells in depth and finally focused on changes of certain ion-levels within the cells upon treatment with potential inhibitors. We could show, that the model enables the in vitro simulation of both the sweating process and its inhibition. Several potential antiperspirant substances were identified and subsequently tested in vivo. Strikingly, in vitro/in vivo comparisons revealed outstanding correlations between the obtained in vitro ion-prints and the actual in vivo sweat reduction. Marketable antiperspirant products containing the most effective technology for individual sweat regulation are currently under development. In conclusion, with our three-dimensional cell model of the human sweat gland (patent-pending), Henkel Beauty Care invented an effective in vitro tool for screening of alternatives of aluminum salts. In addition, a potent antiperspirant technology has been identified based on biological regulation of the sweat gland.
17:00 - 17:30
Improved Active Cosmetic Ingredients by Enhancement of Natural Compounds via Site-selective Rhamnosylation
Dr. Friedericke Bönisch, Universität Hamburg
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Other (New Active Cosmetic Ingredients) Glycosylation, the conjugation with sugar residues, is a natural modification of secondary metabolites influencing their water solubility, bio-activity, and toxicity, as well as their stability, bioavailability, and color. Thus, glycosylation may increase the efficacy of natural compounds in cosmetic applications. Specifically, the transfer of rhamnose is promising since small molecule rhamnosides often show useful bio-activities. But until now efficient rhamnosylation has been a huge challenge and was not feasible nor chemically neither biotechnologically on industrial scale. Within the spin-off project GLYCONIC we developed a unique biotechnological glycosylation platform that enables the efficient production of rhamnosides. Furthermore, we created novel enhanced active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) of natural origin. The rhamnosylated ACI possess improved bioactivities as well as optimized physico-chemical properties in comparison to their precursor compounds. Our patented ACI candidate GA-AA shows very promising in vitro activities for anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and anti-pollution applications. GA-AA is a whitish rhamnoside of hesperetin from natural orange peel extract with exceptional water solubility. GA-AA clearly reduces multiple inflammatory cytokines resulting from environmental noxae and scavenges oxidative stress induced by UV-light. Additionally, GA-AA triggers collagen synthesis and pathways regulating skin regeneration. Another rhamnoside is GA-HG, a natural flavonoid also occurring in Himalaya wild cherry used for other applications in Ayurvedic medicine. We developed GA-HG for hair applications as it triggers multiple hair cycle specific biomarkers that stimulate hair growth and improve hair follicle nourishment. Simultaneously, GA-HG reduces inflammatory cytokines and enhances hair follicle anchoring to prevent hair loss. Both actives, GA-AA as well as GA-HG, were proven as safe ingredients according to EU regulation 1223/2009 following SCCS guidelines. Current R&D focuses on formulation compatibility and stability as well as volunteer studies on their activity in vivo.
During the SEPAWA Congress, SEPAWA e.V. and the GDCh Division of Detergent Chemistry organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster in a short presentation. At the end of the poster session with the authors, the best pieces of work will be awarded. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
13:00 - 14:30
Scientific Poster Tour with Authors (EDC)
Moderated by Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
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17:00 - 18:00
Scientific Poster Session with Authors incl. Award Ceremony (EDC)
Moderated by Prof. Dr. Birgit Glüsen, TH Köln, University of Applied Sciences
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Spring, summer, autumn and winter. Each season enchants us with its unique nature. We enjoy the seasonal fruit and vegetable varieties, soak up the sun or speed down the snow-covered slopes. With each season we associate different emotions and smells, and this year we would like to make it possible for everyone to experience them. In cooperation with the perfume houses Düllberg Konzentra, Frey & Lau, Kurt Kitzing and Luzi, the SEPAWA e.V. and the DGP have created fragrances that reflect nature and your impressions. Open the Fragrance Season with us.
The Forum for Innovation offers all exhibitors the possibility to present their latest developments in the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and fragrance industry as poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations