Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
09:00 - 09:30
Preserving Product Quality through Good Manufacturing Practices
An Velaers, Charles River Laboratories
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Testing In today’s evolving production environment, the pressure to deliver products quickly to market while maintaining product quality continues to increase. Changes in consumer demands surrounding cosmetic product formulation is becoming magnified, and the need to ensure quality testing systems are adequate without impeding production is essential. With these increasingly complex consumer and production demands, many manufacturers of ingredients and products are failing to adapt and adopt better methods for assessing product quality and safety, especially with reduced preservatives available to use. Formulators and final product manufacturers alike, must move away from a position of being preservative-dependent by adopting good manufacturing practices (cGMP) in order to control product quality from start-to-finish. The following practices, which have been in place for decades within the pharmaceutical industry, will be covered in this presentation: Environmental sampling of equipment, personnel, and manufacturing areas. Rapid microbial testing of water, raw materials, and finished products Faster identification and control of specified microorganism Secure, complete, and appropriate documentation of results and records The old methods of “dirty”, high-risk manufacturing are no longer acceptable in today’s market, where preservatives were used to effectively ensure product quality, safety, and consumer appeal.
09:30 - 10:00
The Influence of Thickener Agents in Different Surfactant Systems on Foaming Behavior and Foam Structure
Gina Lisseth Marin Velasquez, INCI-Experts GmbH, KRÜSS GmbH, University Hamburg
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Polymers represent the second largest class of ingredients in cosmetics such as hair and body care products. The polymers guar gum, cationic guar gum and xanthan gum investigated here belong to the gelling agents and are used as thickeners or stabilizers of emulsions. Gel formers are often used in conjunction with complex surfactant systems, such as shampoos and shower gels. The rheology changed by the polymer-based gelling agents used also influences the foam properties as well as the stability of the product. Therefore, the compatibility of several natural polymers with two different surfactant systems (anionic non-ionic surfactant system and amphoteric non-ionic surfactant system) was analyzed for specific application parameters such as foaming behavior, foam stability, foam structure and its aging. In addition, the influence of electrolytes was analyzed using the example of sodium chloride (NaCl) and subsequently compared with the foam properties of polymer-based gelling agents. The foam analysis was carried out with the Dynamic Foam Analyzer DFA100 (KRÜSS GmbH). The addition of polymer-based gelling agents to the surfactant systems resulted in a significant improvement in foam formation and foam stability and has a significant influence on the foam structure and its dynamics. Xanthan gum showed the strongest effects. It was also shown that the influence of individual gelling agents on the foaming behavior also depends strongly on the characteristics of the particular surfactant system.
10:00 - 10:30
Fatty Acid Sulfonate – Redesigning a Surfactant for the Future
Dr. Claudia Brunn, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair Care Sustainability is one of the driving forces for the development of new surfactants. There is an increasing demand for sustainable, renewable and readily biodegradable products. Using renewable raw materials such as fatty acids for the production of surfactants is one important step to fulfill the sustainability requests from the market. Surfactants based on fatty acid methylesters, methylester sulfonates (MES) are well known for a long time. The corresponding fatty acid sulfonates were only known as by-products in MES and their potential as surfactants has not been leveraged yet. A new process for the manufacturing of these fatty acid sulfonates (alpha sulfo fatty acid) had been developed to provide a light colored product at high yield, which can be offered in different product forms. The new product has unique properties, e.g. an excellent temperature and pH stability, low CMC, ability for micellar thickening and a very low irritation potential for skin and mucous membrane. This makes it useful for several industries. We will present examples how this new surfactant can be used as an additive in construction applications (e.g. dry mortars) and in personal care rinse-off applications (e.g. shampoo, shower gel and cleansing bars).
10:45 - 11:15
Alternative to Petroleum-Based Ingredients in Cosmetic Applications: Formulating with Esters for more Sustainability
Mélanie Villedieu, Stéarinerie DUBOIS
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Cosmetics products must offer to the consumer effectiveness, safety and sensorial qualities. Formulators now have to ad to these requirements the market quest for sustainable, biodegradable ingredients, and substitution of petroleum-based products in formulation.With our commitment to green and responsible chemistry, we undertook a study for increasing the amount of renewable carbon in cosmetics, relying on both a scientific and a sensory expertise. We focused our work on some light silicones and hydrocarbons replacement. In order to identify the best alternatives for each of these products, we defined a three-phased approach based on statistical tools, computing data coming both from instrument analysis, and from sensorial description generated by our internal sensory expert panel. In a first time, we made a compilation of available sensory and physico-chemical data on petroleum-based ingredients and fatty esters used as emollients, and selected the most discriminating criteria through an ANOVA analysis. Then, a statistical processing of the existing data was made, to generate proximity matrices between the targeted ingredients and our range of fatty esters. Lastly, in order to ensure the precision of our sensory data, each potential alternative was evaluated in direct comparison with the product to be substituted, in test formulations.The results are given as radar charts, to facilitate data processing and comparisons between the ingredients to be replaced and emollient esters as pertinent alternatives. We proved, both through an instrumental and a sensory study that petrochemicals of interest can be challenged by fatty esters, for updated cosmetic formulations. Equivalents spreading and light feel properties can be provided, giving similar sensory and moisturizing effects in applicative formulations such as make-up and skin care.The replacing emollient esters (e.g. DUB TOGEE and DUB SOGREEN) have a high NOI (Natural Origin Index) and are manufactured in more sustainable way than the petroleum-based ingredients.
11:15 - 11:45
Customization, a Hidden Challenge – Robust Ingredients Mandatory to Create an Easily Handling for Consumers
Alicia Roso, SEPPIC
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Customized Beauty, Do-It-Yourself is back at the top-level of global trends. “Home-made” formulas, created by the consumer themselves, drive a unique emotional experience and fits with a more authentic lifestyle. The favorable momentum should not lead us to forget the sustainability concerns and the technical challenges behind it. There is a great paradox between the simplemixing of the consumer and the technicality that the formula proposed by the manufacturer must have. The sense of accomplishment felt by the consumer is mainly linked to easy blending and flawless final texture, homogeneous, smooth, with the right consistency, that gives them the impression of control. From the manufacturer’s point of view, it implies great versatility of concept with, first of all, ease of mixture between the different formula parts in a wide range of ratios (allowing the consumer to follow their mood without strict control of the weights) and secondly, highly robust formulas. Building on this basis, we designed a DIY formula concept comprising a O/W emulsion chassis, able to be combined with a great variety of “active cocktails” by simple mixture with a spoon. The emulsion robustness is supported by the synergistic combination of a bio-based emulsifier and a biodegradable rheology modifier, ensuring stability and viscosity plateau in a large pH range, as well as with stressful active ingredients. Pleasant skin feel with a long playtime is supported by suitable rheology and tribology profiles. Special achievement of the concept is the inherent moisturizing and restructuring effects provided by the bio-based emulsifier with decreasing skin rugosity after application (ColorFace® system). Emulsion lamellar organization gently interacts with stratum corneum lipids without disorganizing them and strengthens the structure (X-rays diffraction analysis). The well-moisturized stratum corneum creates favorable conditions for the efficacy of the different “active cocktails”, essential for customer loyalty.
12:00 - 12:30
Multifunctional Ingredients for the Preparation of Stable Cosmetic Pickering Emulsions
Dr. Holger Seidel, Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Emulsifier-free emulsions are increasingly used in cosmetics. Their stabilization is essentially based on the use of synthetic or natural polymer compounds. Emulsifier-free emulsions are valued for their good skin compatibility, light texture and good water resistance. Multifunctional, emulsion-stabilizing solid particles are interesting alternatives to polymer compounds. These include silica, titanium dioxide, layered silicate and starch products, as well as microcrystalline cellulose. Their product properties such as UV adsorption capability, dispersibility, mattifying, etc. can be used specifically for product developments. Natural thickeners such as carrageenans, succinoglycan, starch products and dehydroxanthan gum are predestined to adjust the flow properties of such emulsion gels. Suitable manufacturing methods and personalized formulations from various market segments such as sun protection, cosmetics for sensitive skin and men care cosmetics will be presented. The interfacial stabilizing influence of particles can also be exploited in traditional O/W emulsions with liquid-crystalline gel network structures and for the production of multiple w/o/w emulsions.
12:30 - 13:00
Digital Self-Presentation and Beautification of the GEN Z, with Exclusive Study Results
Tina Choi-Odenwald, GIM - Gesellschaft für Innovative Marktforschung
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Decoratives • Digital self-dramatizations, ideas of beauty, beauty studies for 16 to 23-year-olds, with exclusive study results • On the way to self-optimization - what is important for users at 'Beautification • GEN Z and Tonality in social media like WhatsApp, Snapchat or Instagram • Insights and Learnings for the Cosmetics Industry
13:15 - 14:15
Keynote Address: The digital Revolution and the Future of How We Work
Richard David Precht
Spoken Language: German The fact that the world is changing at a breath-taking pace has become common knowledge. But how are we reacting to it? Some people are welcoming the digital future with appalling naivety; others are vociferous in their warnings about the dictatorship of digital companies in Silicon Valley; and then there are those who would rather go back to the past. Richard David Precht has sketched out a picture of a desirable future in a digital age. Would we lose out if the achievement-oriented society we know now were to come to an end? As far as Precht is concerned, it would be an opportunity for us to live more fulfilled and self-determined lives in the future. For this to happen, however, we must set the course now for a systematic change of our social system. After all, the future is not coming – we are making it. The question is not: How are we going to live? But rather: How do we want to live?
Spoken Language: German
Take a break from two exhausting days at the congress and enjoy some extraordinary food and a bit of entertainment at our popular After Event. Fresh, Tasty, Live With The Scent (and Flavors) of Season at the Get-Together, we have already given your noses and taste buds a warm-up, now you can embark on an unforgettable palate journey. After the official opening and award ceremony of the SEPAWA Innovation Award, Peter Griebel, kitchen director of the Estrel, will once again present culinary delicacies from the world’s kitchens with his award-winning team. What kind of entertainment are we coming up with? That’s a secret for now. One thing is certain: 66 years of SEPAWA Congress must be celebrated and it will be different from what you expect. So we will leave it at that and give room for speculation. See you there!
09:00 - 09:15
ECOSURF™ Bright 1 – Novel Surfactant for Superior Shine in Automatic Dishwashing
Laurence Gallez, The Dow Chemical Company
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Phosphate removal from ADW detergents initiated a wave of reformulations to balance formulation cost and performance in the new regulatory environment. While customers are generally unwilling to accept lower performance, innovative solutions can help them return to the shine levels associated with phosphate detergents at reasonable cost. For ADW applications, Dow has developed new anti-spotting surfactant ECOSURF™ Bright 1, addressing the performance challenges in the phosphate-free environment. This low-foaming surfactant offers premium anti-spotting performance in low MGDA formulations, outperforming the leading industrial benchmark on shine. A review will be given of the performance of ECOSURF™ Bright 1 in phosphate-free formulations based on various builder systems such as citrate or MGDA/citrate. ECOSURF™ Bright 1 demonstrated outstanding anti-spotting performance tested according to the rinse protocol and outperformed the commercial benchmark on both spotting and filming. The anti-spotting action was confirmed on various surfaces, including stainless steel. By enabling more cost-effective builder systems, ECOSURF™ Bright 1 offers an interesting alternative to the existing formulation strategies and helps the formulator to either boost the shine performance or to optimize cost/performance balance by reducing the need for expensive builders.
09:15 - 09:30
Enhancing the Efficiency of Primary Alcohol Ethoxylates
Lluís Talarn, Brenntag Holding GmbH
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Detergents Brenntag has built an R&D and innovation center on the Barcelona University campus. The site offers lab services to Brenntag’s partners throughout Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA), allowing product performance tests and the formulation development of cleaning products. The site focuses on developing new concepts for all cleaning formulations, reducing raw-material costs and improving product performance. It facilitates better, faster response to changing market trends and helps partners meet the demands that accompany technical and regulatory requirements, and those of end consumers who are more conscious of the products and formulation they use. Enhancing the Efficiency of Primary Alcohol Ethoxylates: BFS-NI 247/75 A development of polymer-surfactant aggregates shows that: - In a standard DEGREASER formulation, BFS-NI 247/75 can substitute a primary C12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 7 EO in a lower active matter % without negatively influencing performance results. Run tests under fixed conditions (emulsifying power, embedded fats) show that C12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 7 EO can be substituted by BFS-NI 247/75 in a relation of 1 : 0.60 to 1 : 0.40. - When formulating HDLD products, BFS-NI 247/75 can be used as a substitute of a primary C12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 7 EO. Results following AISE recommendations show that cleaning performance of a formulation containing C12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 7 EO is equivalent to a formulation performance containing BFS-NI 247/75 as a non-ionic surfactant. Run tests under fixed conditions show that C12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate with 7 EO can be substituted by BFS-NI 247/75 in a relation of 1 : 0.60, a lower % without negatively influencing performance results. - Energy savings: BFS-NI 247/75 is easy to handle and it remains stable at low temperatures (example 264,7 cPs at 10 ºC).
09:30 - 09:45
Cellobiose Lipids – New Microbial Biosurfactants
Amira Oraby, University of Stuttgart, Fraunhofer IGB
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Laboratory, New Class of Microbially Produced Biosurfactants Cellobiose lipids (CL) are glycolipids that can be produced by Ustilaginacae species utilizing sugars as sole carbon source. The addition of hydrophobic carbon sources, like vegetable oils, is not required which saves substrate costs and facilitates easier downstream processing. Different microbial producers secrete different structural mixtures of CLs that vary in their hydroxy fatty acid as well as their side chains. Chemical and enzymatic modification result in further structures associated with other characteristics. Some promising properties of CL are reported in literature. For example, CLs show antimicrobial and fungicidal activity towards a variety of microorganisms, e.g. clinically relevant isolates of different Staphylococcus sp. or Candida albicans (Kulakovskaya et al. 2004, Teichmann et al. 2007, Mimee et al. 2009). Another interesting feature is the gel formation in several solvents. Hence, CLs have high potential as a substitute for petrochemical surfactants in cosmetics, as a fungicide in the agricultural sector or as a preservative in the food industry. Despite their considerable potential, CLs have not yet been produced commercially. Challenges exist both in the establishment of a stable fermentation process with high space-time yields and in downstream processing (DSP) as identified by our techno-economical evaluation and life cycle assessment. Therefore, the focus of our work is the optimization of an overall process considering upstream as well as downstream processing. DSP of CLs includes the separation of crystallized biosurfactants from the culture broth, followed by solvent extraction to achieve pure CLs. Our approach for an optimized production and purification process is foam fractionation. By continuously separating the formed foam from the bioreactor during fermentation, we obtain a product-enriched fraction. When extracting CLs from this fraction, we manage to save a significant amount of solvent and energy for product separation, thus resulting in a more economic process with less impact on the environment.
09:45 - 10:00
Are Bio-based Surfactants just a Trend or the Future of our Industry?
Kerstin Kieser, BASF
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Business & Market Trends In the Home Care and I&I industry we can observe a fast-growing number of product claims based on the content of renewable raw materials. In the past there was no 100% clear definition of bio-based surfactants and their clustering. Now this has an end and with the EN17035 the industry can use a transparent definition and segmentation which also enables to communicate in a comparable way to the end-user. In the presentation we want to explain how this applies to the BASF surfactant portfolio for the Home Care and I&I industry and what we can offer our customers in each segment. We’ll also give an impression on the significance and development of this topic in social media. We observe that customers are increasingly interested in products based on renewable raw materials as they are often perceived as more natural and having a positive environmental impact. We evaluate the impact on the environment during production and the use of products based on renewable raw materials using life cycle analysis methods. Renewable raw materials may feature unique properties and functionalities that are either impossible or very difficult to create using fossil resources. Last, but not least the use of bio-based raw materials broadens our raw materials basis.
10:00 - 10:15
Broad Range vs. Narrow Range Ethoxylates – Structure-activity Relationship of Non-ionic Surfactants
Pietro Alfarano, Kolb Distribution Ltd.
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents When choosing the right surfactant for an application, features like natural or synthetic, linear or branched hydrophobic tail, and broad or narrow EO distribution need to be considered. One has to decide which fatty alcohol ethoxylate suits the needs best and can choose the C-chain length ranging from 8 to 12, linear or branched, and the range distribution of the ethoxylate, such as broad (BRE) or narrow (NRE). Next to that, the route of synthesis and the following post-treatment, like steam stripping, is crucial for the homologue and isomer composition of the final product. All of these aspects drive the performance of the product. Experimental research was done on instrumental analysis of a series of the alcohol ethoxylates. The main surfactant-related properties (e.g. surface activity, foaming, wetting on hard surfaces, etc.) were determined resulting in a comprehensive structure-activity comparison. Last but not least, a comparative olfactory assessment and odour acceptance decides on the use of a product in a certain application.
10:15 - 10:30
Innovative Bio-Based Surfactants for Cleaning Product Applications. When Sustainability Comes with Cost-Effective Performance!
Tony Bartolini, Arkema France
Spoken Language: English Category: Home Care / Cleaning Agents Over the last 2 decades, innovation on surfactants for Home and Professional care applications has been quite limited. The few surfactants introduced to the market were not entirely fulfilling formulators and market requirements often leading to lower stability and/or lower performance when compared to existing solutions and while not being cost-competitive. As a result of working closely with our partners to understand current consumer needs and leveraging ARKEMA’s DNA on Innovation and Sustainability, a new range of non-ionic bio-based surfactants has been developed. Key criteria such as product provenance, labelling, performance and competitiveness have been integrated during the development to offer a new versatile and sustainable surfactant range for cleaning applications. This new bio-based range of surfactants is derived from a new vegetal source out of traditional impacting food chain routes and without impact on deforestation. This confers to our products a unique sustainable profile. Readily biodegradable, with low toxicity and non-corrosive labelling, our new product range allows to develop concentrated cleaning formulations with limited label impact. The innovative range brings cleaning performance to another level by offering a combination of a unique degreasing power and low foaming benefits exceeding requirements of standard cleaning products for applications such as hard surface cleaning and automatic dishwashing. This easy to use and highly concentrated bio-based surfactant range provides multiple benefits and can enhance cleaning formulations to meet today’s formulators and consumers needs while limiting the impact on the environment.
10:45 - 11:00
SEPIFINE™ BB – an Ethically Sourced Texturizing Powder for a Velvety Soft Skin Finish
Bettina Barlog, Seppic GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Seppic launches SEPIFINE™ BB (1) , a biodegradable and 100% biosourced texturizing powder derived from Brazilian babassu. This starch-based ingredient provides a high-performance alternative to synthetic texturizing powders. It also responds to consumer expectations of raw materials that benefit our planet. SEPIFINE™ BB is fabricated using no GMOs and no preservatives. The ethical sourcing of the babassu is validated by the “Origens Brasil” organization that assures the equitable sharing of economic resources between local communities throughout the supply chain. SEPIFINE™ BB is water and oil dispersible with a primary function of texturizing agent for skin care and makeup applications. It is versatile for gel creams, emulsions, or powders. Its velvety skin sensation even improves the afterfeel of sun care lotions. Improved oil absorption of SEPIFINE™ BB brings long term sebum control associated with specialty texturizing powders. Non oily and ultra light, it can be used across a broad range of beauty care formulations. This new ingredient can be used to formulate biodegradable finished products with high naturality, without losing the performance of traditional ingredients. SEPIFINE™ BB is a natural choice as the next generation of texturizing powders! This product is a result of our partnership with Atina Ativos Naturais, who have created and marketed a range of natural products following the cradle to cradle format. (1) INCI name: Amylopectin
11:00 - 11:15
H₂OBioEV™ – An Evolution in Moisturization to Refresh and Revitalize Your Skin
Ann Steinmann, Lonza AG
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care It`s a jungle out there! So many products, so many claims and so many confused consumers! “Sun damage, pollution, fighting free radicals, minimizing pores, providing anti-oxidants, preventing wrinkles or fine lines, reducing dark spots and reducing puffiness” However, research (Euromonitor) has shown that 65% of consumers are looking for rejuvenating skin care benefits from moisturization and hydration processes to replenish skin appearance. Getting it right Addressing both Market Demands and Consumer Needs. H₂OBioEV™ contains a combination of naturally sourced ingredients which offer several different biophysical and biochemical approaches to address dry skin. H₂OBioEV™ is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient that moisturises by replenishing essential humectants, providing an optimal environment for epidermal proteins to form and maintain a strong barrier, thus restoring a smooth and radiant appearance, delivering perceivable benefits. H₂OBioEV™ - An Evolution in Moisturization to Refresh and Revitalize Your Skin
11:15 - 11:30
NATURA-TEC MARINE OCEANMIST CL ™ – Repair of Barrier Functions in Sensitive and Atopic Skin
Ulrike Marx, NCD Ingredients GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care NATURA-TEC MARINE OCEANMIST CL is an extract from the Nordic alga Nannochloropsis Oceanica, and is the first major source of cholesterol from microalgae. In the Stratum corneum cholesterol is an important part of the hydrophobic lipids of the extracellular matrix and the plasma membrane of the corneocytes, which are the primary barrier to the transdermal penetration of water, electrolyte, environmental pollution or microbes. Especially in sensitive and atopic skin changes in the structure and effectiveness of the skin barrier occur. Here, NATURA-TEC MARINE OCEANMIST CL demonstrates convincing effects in the restructuring of disturbed structures and aggregation in the stratum corneum. Significant disturbances of the skin barrier, which are typical in the sensory and atopic skin, may lead to more or less constant inflammatory processes, as external inflammatory triggers can more easily penetrate the skin. The ideal care for sensitive skin thus takes into account, in particular, the barrier preservation and its promotion. The integrity of the stratum corneum is significantly disturbed by some cytokines involved in inflammatory processes. In tests using skin models, NATURA-TEC MARINE OCEANMIST CL demonstrated clearly its potential to protect the stratum corneum and its structural integrity, and the reduction of typical effects caused by inflammatory processes. Filaggrines, whose production is stimulated by NATURA-TEC MARINE OCEANMIST CL, also play a role in barrier performance and elasticity. They are proteins responsible for the bundling of the keratin intermediate filaments into macro-fibrils and thus have structure-forming functions for the epidermis and the stratum corneum. This ingredient helps to restore skin balance, promotes skin health by stabilizing its barrier functions and reduces negative cellular effects from skin irritation processes. Healthy skin without internal irritation problems and with powerful barrier function shows a radiant complexion. This is what also dermatologists demand: Promotion of skin health through a stable, functional skin barrier.
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Our wristwatch automatically adjusts to the new time zone after a long-haul flight. But what about our internal master clock? We all have a master clock located in our brains. This pre-programmed circadian rhythm is activated when our eyes perceive the blue light part of the light spectrum. With the help of certain clock genes like CLOCK, ARNTL, PER and CRY, our circadian rhythm regulates all clocks of our body and its organs. A disturbed circadian rhythm makes us struggling with jetlag. However, we will be not only tired, also our skin feels dry and itchy. It suffers from epidermal jetlag® after long distance travel, long working days, usage of blue light-emitting media or UV light exposure which causes additional damage to the skin barrier and cellular DNA. CELLIGENT® is the best way to recalibrate the biorhythm of our skin thanks to two powerful circadian antioxidants obtained from rice and rosemary. By resetting the master genes of the epidermal clock, CELLIGENT® immediately strengthens the skin barrier, increases moisture and eliminates redness. This results in a fresh appearance and smooth, moisturized skin.
12:15 - 12:30
Can a Cosmetic Product be Good for me and the Planet?
Astrid Wulfinghoff, Covestro Deutschland AG
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Hair & Sun Care Clean beauty with polyurethane film formers Now more than ever, consumers are becoming increasingly conscious of their products and their effects on the environment. In response, the cosmetic industry is seeking out new solutions to reduce the environmental impact and is striving for high performance by careful ingredient selection. Baycusan® ingredients are polyurethane-film formers that are non-occlusive, and form a breathable and protective barrier onto the skin. These polymers are safe and non-irritant which is confirmed by their excellent toxicological profile. Polyurethane film formers show less impact on the environment by having the potential to biodegrade if released into the environment which is not the case for most currently used synthetic film formers which do not biodegrade well and present a risk of persistency in the environment. In particular, growing awareness of the effects of sunscreen on the world’s oceans is motivating important revisions in sun care products. Innovative formulations now provide durable UV protection while helping to reduce damage to aquatic ecosystems. The choice of biodegradable and high performing ingredients is crucial. Baycusan® film formers are water-resistant, have the ability to biodegrade and best support formulations of eco-friendly & durable sun care products Polyurethane chemistry also enables the design of polymers based on renewable feedstock. Containing over 50% of carbon from plant biomass, the new bio-based film former Baycusan® eco E 1000 fulfills the definition of a derived natural ingredient according to the ISO 16128-1 norm. This naturally-derived polymer especially developed for hair care applications therefore opens new perspectives for formulators, making formulations combining higher natural content and superior styling properties possible. Baycusan® raw materials are the key ingredients for creating “clean beauty” products that enable people to be as beautiful as they would like to be in a safe and sustainable way.
12:30 - 12:45
PEPHA®-AGE Stimulates Skin’s own Defense Against Blue Light
Olivier Garet, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd
Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care About 70% of the adult population is spending more than 5 hours per day with screens. The consumers and the scientific community are concerned about the established adverse effects on the skin of blue light emitted by electronic devices and sunlight. Two years ago, DSM’s scientists started to investigate blue light activity in the skin, whether it comes from the visible sunlight or artificial sources. The aim was to find solutions which would meet all the requirements of consumers for appealing, integrated total protection, and extend this protection into the blue range. Since then, consumers more and more are making the link between blue light and potential harm to skin. Due to this high interest, the industry needs to provide more information and scientific evidence. Our algae extract PEPHA®-AGE already showed a high potential in stimulating skin’s own defense against the negative impact of sunlight including the blue light range. To complement the efficacy of this unique algae extract, and fulfilling consumer needs for more efficient solutions against blue light damage on skin, we conducted new efficacy studies, with outstanding results on reducing ex- vivo blue light induced oxidative stress (by inhibiting Reactive Oxygen Species and reducing carbonylated proteins), and preventing in vivo blue light induced skin darkening by immediate reduction of skin pigmentation (-30% after 3 days blue light exposure), by immediate skin redness reduction (-25%), therefore providing even skin tone. PEPHA®-AGE is able to reduce skin damage caused by natural and artificial blue light sources, and minimize the appearance of ageing after exposure to blue light and UV.
12:45 - 13:00
Achieve Infrared Protection Claims without Compromise with Croda’s Infraveil™ IT-100
Dr. Raphael Haase, Croda GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Sun Care Achieve immediate skin protection against infrared skin aging with Croda's physical Infrared-A (IRA) shield Infraveil IT-100. Infrared radiation causes photoaging which contributes to increased wrinkling and premature skin-aging. As consumers become increasingly aware of the effect of the sun's rays, they are looking for broader sun protection beyond UV. Infraveil IT-100 meets this requirement for Infrared-A (IRA) protection. Based on a patented titanium dioxide dispersion technology which ensures that, despite the large particle size, it has minimal whitening on the skin, it provides independently verified IRA protection. Because of the minimal whitening on the skin, it is ideal for skin- and sun care applications as well as colour cosmetics. Combined with Croda’s Solaveil™ range, it delivers complete solar light protection.
09:00 - 09:45
How Does Our Sense of Smell Fit in to Our Overstimulated Contemporary World?
Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Andrea Büttner, Fraunhofer Institut für Verfahrenstechnik und Verpackung (IVV), Friedrich-Alexander-Universität Erlangen Nürnberg (FAU)
Spoken Language: German Category: Flavor & Fragrance Humans use different senses to retrieve information about their environment. Sight and hearing dominate our everyday life – pictures and noise overwhelm us with impressions. Can smell still play a role here? And how does smell interact with the other senses? In contrast to sight and hearing, smelling happens subconsciously most of the time. Humans smell with every breath they take, with air passing by the olfactory receptors in the nose, detecting the contained chemical compounds. Smell surrounds us everywhere every day in our modern world. Initially, aromas and perfumes or other personal hygiene articles come to your mind when talking about smell or odor, but also many other things and processes from our daily life exude odors – ranging from the Sunday newspaper and plastics to emissions. The human sense of smell is quite often underestimated, but it has an important role as a warning system, for example when presented with danger such as fire and spoilt food, but also for inter-human communication and especially during the consumption of food and beverages. The final overall impression is only created when all human senses interact together. Yet physiological aspects of smelling, the consciously and subconsciously perception and the hedonic rating of the stimulus as well as the processing in the brain are not fully understood. Because of the emotional element of smell as well as the high inter-individual variances in human smell perception established sensory methods often encounter their limits. The presentation includes latest findings of multisensory research and illustrates the importance of smell by phenomena of olfactory perception.
Spoken Language: English Category: Flavor & Fragrance / Skin Care, Hair Care, Personal Care Fragrance and personal care consumers are no longer willing to be passive recipients of generic, non-targeted products, and are demanding their individual needs to be answered with bespoke solutions and customisable options. Today’s consumers are keen to express and showcase unique, authentic identities, and traditional labels translating a universal beauty ideal are receding. Individual needs now have more influence over what brands create. In this context, how can the personal care and fragrance industries cater to thousands of consumers individually? Personalisation doesn’t have to be complicated – it just needs to embrace inclusivity and address individual beauty concerns with simple but efficient solutions. Personalisation doesn’t have to be personal – new technologies are catering for mass production of bespoke solutions and interactions. Personalisation doesn’t have to be individual – the expression of unique identities allows consumers to locate like-minded souls and find their ‘tribe’, to form new connections and diffuse messages of diversity. Personalisation strategies will adapt to this new concept of collective uniqueness. Personalisation doesn’t have to just be skin deep – the plurality of modern lifestyles will need to be addressed with fluid solutions that can adapt to each consumers’ daily needs and moods. Personalisation has now trickled down from prestige to mass market, a movement driven by young, internet-savvy consumers who expect quick solutions. More than a trend, it has become a core consumer expectation that is still uncatered for: in Italy, 60% of consumers haven’t taken a personality quiz to identify their beauty needs but would like to. This strong demand will force breakthrough innovations from brands willing to tap into a multi-faceted area that is still challenging to navigate. In this presentation, we will look at how the personalisation revolution is currently evolving, and share how the trend is set to shape the future.
10:45 - 11:45
The Scent of Genes – What is Actually Decisive for Mate Choice
Prof. Dr. Manfred Milinski, Max-Planck-Institut für Evolutionsbiologie
Spoken Language: German Category: Flavor & Fragrance All cultures are known to place great importance on artificial body odour, suggesting that human bodies should smell. Fragrances have been used since at least 5000 years and all traditional scents are found in modern perfumes. The purpose of using perfumes seems to be to enhance a person’s sexual attractiveness. The advantage of sexual reproduction is, however, yet an unsolved biological puzzle, unless it helps to win the race with the enormous number of always changing infectious diseases. There are more than thousand variants of immune genes in human populations and each individual human being has a combination of only a few of these variants. We would have to select our partners in such a way that their immune genes complement ours, so that the offspring are optimally resistant against the current spectrum of infectious diseases. We signal with our body odor (also with the perfume that we like on us) which immune genes we possess. We compare unconsciously the offer made by a potential partner with our immune genes. Only partners whose immune genes fit to ours “smell good”, partners that do not fit smell awful. The natural chemical signal, the natural perfume, is the same in humans, mice, fish and probably in all vertebrates. It exists in a great number of variants. We can synthesize it, validate its biological function and use it as a perfume. The commercial perfume that we have selected to use, contains ingredients that amplify our natural perfume. We are thus highly selective in choosing our perfume. We would not stand any other perfume on us. Our immune genes dictate which partner to choose and which perfume to select.
11:45 - 12:15
Fragrance and Skin: What Do We Need, What Do We Want, What Are We Allowed to Do?
Prof. Dr. med. Dr. h. c. Torsten Zuberbier, Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin
Spoken Language: German Category: Flavor & Fragrance Fragrance and skin It is a paradox, on the one hand, fragrances are really demonized by many media as unnecessary ingredients in cosmetics, on the other hand, fragrances are popular, and many people enjoy perfumes and scented cosmetics. In fact, this discussion is based on errors of the past when fragrances were used without testing for phototoxicity or allergenicity. In fact, there are a number of fragrances that have allergenic potential, but not all! Furthermore, it is important to know that even those fragrances that have an allergenic potential can be used in low concentrations below the threshold for sensitization. This is a very important characteristic, especially of fragrances. The nose is able to detect even a few molecules. However, these concentrations are far from sufficient to stimulate the immune system. Therefore, also allergenic fragrances can be used in special cases with care. Here, however, good communication with the patient and critical media is important. In summary, it is completely unjustified to demonize "fragrances" in general, they are simply chemical substances like other ingredients in cosmetics and many fragrances bear no allergenic potential or other risk. On the other hand, a pleasant scent is beneficial and not only enhances the user's mood but also needed in many cosmetics as the basic ingredients have often an odour, which is not perceived as pleasant. In this sense, the seal for allergy-friendly products and services of the European Centre for Allergy Research Foundation also clearly emphasises that it is essential for the quality of life of allergy sufferers to also be able to use cosmetics containing fragrances; The art is to choose the right ones and in the right concentration.
12:15 - 13:00
Impulse - Experience - Idea: Sensory Perception through Metamorphosis in Fragrance
Jörg Zimmermann, Dr. Hauschka Cosmetics, WALA Heilmittel GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Flavor & Fragrance We breathe all day, absorbing innumerable pieces of information that would not be lost in conscious perception. When we smell, we follow an energy impulse that leads us and brings us to life. The experience of smelling offers an insight into the idea of the creative process. All sensory content is condensed into a single point. In creation, the perfumer's experience and rich associative power produce an atmosphere that comes to expression through pure imagination and skill. There is a part of us that stays eternally young and can relive all past experiences in detail. The prerequisite is an eloquent impulse. We seek orientation through our perception and try to align ourselves with our sensory perceptions. Scent provides orientation as we connect with its essence. The essential oil contains the essence of a plant, which can be turned into a holistic experience through a principle of order within creation. How does one succeed in transforming energy so that an idea can be derived from it? The principle of metamorphosis is part of this profound experience in the act of smelling.
Following the Fragrance Sessions, all members of DPG are cordially invited to a glass of champagne.
09:00 - 09:30
A Scientific Perspective on the Environmental Position of PVA-Based Water Soluble Films
Dr.-Ing. Yash Parulekar, Kuraray Europe GmbH, MonoSol LLC, A Kuraray Division
Spoken Language: English Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability Poly-vinyl Alcohol (PVA) based water-soluble film technologies have enabled the introduction and subsequent exponential growth of unit-dose pouches and tablets in the home-care and fabric-care sector around the world. At the same time, increased public, government and NGO attention has placed heightened attention on plastics and polymers of all kinds. This presentation will clarify the environmental profile of PVA water-soluble films, including end-of-life in aqueous systems. Based on a survey of scientific literature, the presentation will demonstrate that PVA water-soluble films dissolve in water, biodegrade, and do not persist in the environment nor contribute to micro-plastic pollution and that brand owners, retailers, and consumers can use these products with confidence in their environmental profile
09:30 - 10:00
Sustainability Criteria Applied by Certification Systems for Renewable Raw Materials
Dipl. Biol. Horst Fehrenbach, ifeu GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability Would it be possible to award the Blue Angel eco-label to a detergent made from palm oil just because it is a bio-based product? This question was about the starting point for the research project "Implementation of sustainability criteria for the material use of biomass in the context of the Blue Angel". The goal is to develop award criteria for eco-labels for bio-based products at a cross-level. It addresses fundamental requirements for sustainably produced biomass as a raw material based on two main focuses: 1. Which established certification systems take into account sustainability criteria in accordance with internationally recognized standards (ISO 13065) and also ensure the supply chain; 2. Which production pathways can ensure a positive greenhouse gas balance, including land-use change (LUC)? Regarding the 1st point, the systems RSB (Roundtable on Sustainable Biomaterials), ISCCplus (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification), RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil), and RTRS (Roundtable on Responsible Soy) largely fulfill the criteria catalog according to ISO. However, the latter three have clear gaps for some criteria, which is why a time limit of awarding is recommended here. Moreover, it is essential to verify the chain of custody through segregation or at least mass balance. Point 2 leads to a more detailed analysis of the countries of origin of the cultivated biomass: bio-based products should be only permitted for a limited time for the award of the Blue Angel, as long as the raw materials from a country of origin where real land use change takes place to such an extent that an offset of the CO2 emissions arising from real LUC for this raw material makes CO2 net saving impossible, compared to the fossil reference product.
10:00 - 10:30
Environmental Impacts Along the Life Cycle of a T-Shirt – Where are the Hotspots?
Dr.-Ing. Annekatrin Lehmann, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: German Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability A careful use of resources and respectful treatment of the environment gains increasing importance for consumers, politics and industry. Also the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V. – IKW) is working intensively on reducing environmental impacts in its product areas. Against this background, the joint research project "Environmental assessment of the production, care and disposal of a commercially available white cotton T-shirt in Germany" was initiated between the IKW and TU Berlin. The aim of this project was to use life cycle assessment – LCA – (ISO 14040/44) to analyze potential environmental impacts along the life cycle of a T-shirt. This includes material and energy resources for T-shirt and detergent production (e.g. cotton, chemicals), resources for the care of the T-shirt (e.g. water, detergents, energy) as well as disposal or recycling processes of the T-shirt. The LCA quantifies process and product-related environmental impacts (e.g. global warming potential, eutrophication, or ecotoxicity) and allocates them to the individual life cycle stages. In addition, it reveals hotspots and improvement potentials. For the study a laundry care scenario for the T-Shirt was defined together with experts from the textile and detergents industry, which was considered as representative for Germany: 44-times washing, 43.3°C, 55ml liquid detergent, 3.5kg loading of the washing machine and 10% machine drying. These washing parameters were varied in sensitivity analyses to determine their effects on the LCA results. The study shows, for instance, that the environmental impacts of a white cotton T-shirt are largely determined by the cotton- and T-shirt production. 44-times washing is responsible for about 50% of the calculated global warming potential and contributes around 20% to acidification and eutrophication potential. Moreover, it shows that the environmental impacts increase with rising washing frequency, washing temperature and detergent dosage as well as decreasing loading.
10:45 - 11:15
Consumer Safety: The Viewpoint of the Stiftung Warentest
Dr. Sara Wagner-Leifhelm, Stiftung Warentest
Spoken Language: German Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability Stiftung Warentest was founded in 1964. As a consumer organization, its main task is to provide independent and objective information for the public by means of comparative investigations of products. This talk presents several current projects concerning washing and cleaning products and discusses testing procedures, results and their relevance for the consumer.
11:15 - 11:45
ISC3 - The International Centre of Competence for Sustainable Chemistry – We Transform Chemistry!
Friedrich Barth, Collaborative Centre (ISC3)
Spoken Language: German Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability The ISC3 (International Sustainable Chemistry Collaborative Centre) promotes and develops Sustainable Chemistry solutions worldwide. The international collaborative centre works close cooperation with partners from industry, politics and academia to find and implement new sustainable solutions for the many challenges of our times.
12:00 - 12:30
Status REACH: Today and Tomorrow
Dr. Frank Wangemann, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Spoken Language: German Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability
12:30 - 13:00
Main Findings of the Evaluation of the Detergents Regulation
Ioanna Vasilaki, European Commission
Spoken Language: English Category: Legislative, Environment, Consumer Group / Sustainability
15:00 - 16:00
European Chemical Regulations and their Impact on the Surfactant Supply-chain – Activities of the Association TEGEWA
Dr. Alex Föller, Verband TEGEWA; Dr. Katrin Schwarz, BASF SE
Spoken Language: German Category: Home Care / TEGEWA Major activities of the association are the representation of the members vis-à-vis regulators in Berlin and in Brussels on the one hand. One the other, the association moderates its members‘ positions and interests in the supply-chains for cosmetics, household detergents and cleaners, textile, leather and paper manufacturing, biocidal products and water treatment. In total, more than 100 chemical manufacturers have joined in the association, most of them German-based, but from the Netherlands and Switzerland as well. Today, the association plays a major role outside German borders: in the fields of cosmetics, paper and water treatment the association is managing European bodies, too. The association sees itself as partner of the Competent authorities and customer associations and follows its major objective to moderate different interests among the stakeholders targeting on the evaluation of pragmatic and standardized practices. In the first part of the presentation Alex Föller will present the current activities of the association. Supply-chain activities will be mentioned, but the clear focus will be laid on regulative challenges. The presentation will be shared with Katrin Schwarz, current speaker of the TEGEWA expert group on product responsibility, who will demonstrate in the second part how the association works on positions in cooperation with the European surfactant industry’s association (CESIO) in order to meet political and societal challenges in the sector of household detergents and cleaners. Currently, topics such as classification and labelling and the intended EU restriction on Microplastics are in the focus of interest. Concerning renewable resources, a European standard has been developed and approved for bio-based surfactants – with a significant contribution of the surfactant manufacturers. In future „REACH and polymers“ will gain increasing importance for the chemical industry, with specific challenges for the surfactant industry and their customers.
During the SEPAWA Congress, SEPAWA e.V. and the GDCh Division of Detergent Chemistry organize a Scientific Poster Session. Authors have the opportunity to present their poster in a short presentation. At the end of the poster session with the authors, the best pieces of work will be awarded. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations
Following the Fragrance Sessions, all members of DPG are cordially invited to a glass of champagne.
The Forum for Innovation offers all exhibitors the possibility to present their latest developments in the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and fragrance industry as poster. Find further information on the page: Poster Presentations