“Cosmetics 360 Degrees”: The aim of this conference is to present the development of cosmetic sciences “holistically” (and around the focus of sustainability).

Spoken Language: German

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care Cosmetics, part of our days, used to improve our quality of life, our self-esteem, help us to integrate in the modern society, but how to make the difference as manufacturer between our product and the others? How to choose the most appropriate for us as a consumer? Do we choose in the same way no matter the region, age or gender? Which is the trigger for our choices as consumers? What is the most powerful tool to push our product in front, as manufacturers? The solution seems to be on the newborn world called internet, that supposed to be accompanied with a lot of responsibility... and the winning product of the new marketing era, are influencers, now omnipresent in our modern life due to social network, adds. Cosmetics are the favorite products in influencing, apparently since everybody is using, everybody has a word to say, but how valid are their opinion, should we guide our decision to use something on our body based on that? Do we realize when is an authorized opinion and when is just a testimonial? So, influencers, are they good or bad? Should we trust them? Are they human? The new present is on fast-forward bombing us with information: buy this or that, searching engines from browsers follow our interest suggesting similar products in real world or virtual ones. Do we need new regulations? The answer is a click away.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care To investigate the skin microbiome modern molecular-biological technologies are used and many hypotheses aim to understand the composition of the respective ecosystem. Even though the knowledge of the microbial composition is without any doubt of great importance, it might not always be properly assessed, and the results might get misinterpreted. On top, the phylogenetic information might not explain always the functionalities observed in a microbial ecosystem. The talk therefore aims to discuss the chances the knowledge of the skin microbiome will have in the future for cosmetic applications but also will pinpoint some pitfalls. This will be mainly explored using data from the human armpit microbiota. Furthermore, some vocabulary usually appearing in the context of skin microbiome & cosmetics will be described, e.g. pre- & probiotic cosmetics. At the end also some words on the effect of preservatives on the skin microbiota will be given.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care The Specialist Group Galenics of DGK e.V. and its activities are portrayed in this presentation. It is a group of university and industry experts in Personal Care, including ingredient manufacturers and cosmetics manufacturers. Goals of the Specialist Group are characterisation, understanding and optimisation of cosmetic formulations with regard to selection and screening of ingredients, formulation development, manufacturing technology, stability, and effiency. Due to intensive exchange of experiences of the group members, several research projects have been carried out during the past years, including penetration and liberation studies of model active substances (Avenanthramides, Glycyrrhizinic Acid, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Resveratrol, Apigenin). Just recently, two guideline formulations for skin care have been developed. A selection of the most important and the new scientific projects - the „Different Shades of Galenics“ - will be presented. The group „Galenics“ also carries out the DGK workshop „Galenics, Liberation and Effect“ which includes presentations as well as a practical part in the lab. The workshop of the year 2022 will also be featured. Topics of interest for the future work will be mentioned to attract further experts who are interested in becoming an active member of the group.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care This presentation will introduce the concept of expanded skin sensoriality. The latest discoveries in psycho-dermatology show us that our skin possesses many more senses than traditionally attributed to it, such as touch. Thanks to these new cutaneous "sensing" capabilities, the skin's function goes far beyond enveloping and protecting the entire body: it allows us to perceive and process much more information from our environment and to act on our health and mood in unexpected ways. These discoveries are making it possible to extend the sensoriality of the skin to new frontiers that were previously unimaginable. List of main thematics for the speech: 1.The skin and the brain are embrionic siblings 2.The other “senses” of the skin 3.The skin sensoriality expanded: You are an holobiont. 4.New frontiers in skin sensoriality 5.The skin Interactome

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care The work of the task force Sun Protection is mainly based on two pillars, educational and research. The continuing educational activity consists of a sun protection workshop taking place every two or three years, mainly realized by members of the task force and covers the essential aspects of sun protection. The research topics are mostly related to method development. Due to the fact that often the necessary experimental conditions are given by several members, there is the possibility of interlaboratory tests. It has been shown that this methodological work has influenced the development of standards such as ISO 24443, the determination of the UVA protection factor in vitro. The basic investigations leading to this method were carried out in the DGK’s Sun Protection task force. The topic of UVA-protection has been further pursued by the group comparing the corresponding ISO- and the FDA-methodologies. It is a well-known fact, that the amount of sunscreen applied on the skin by consumers is often less than the amount defined in the sun protection factor (SPF) testing protocol. The question how the SPF is influenced by such differences has been quite a matter of debate. The DGK task force addressed this issue with an in vivo and an in vitro SPF study, where a linear relationship between SPF and application amount was found. Concerning the in vitro SPF investigations, also the pitfalls of this methodology were elaborated. At present, the DGK takes part as a financial contributor in the Alt-SPF Consortium as well as with the expertise of the task group members in the different methodologies. Future plans include comparing methods for characterizing the protective effects of antioxidants used in sunscreens.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / SPF Measurements Since the current gold standard for SPF testing requires the generation of erythema on at least ten volunteers (ISO 24444), new alternative methods for SPF testing were developed in the last years. The international ring study ALT-SPF[1] will compare different alternative methods. One of the participating methods is LED-HDRS[2], where multiple UV-LEDs are utilized in a customized UV-light source combined with a customized system for diffuse reflectance spectroscopy on human skin. The resulting UV-transmission spectra allow calculation of SPF and UVA-PF according to the equations as in ISO 24443. In this contribution, we describe the method and report on previous results, which showed that resulting SPF and UVA-PF values correlated well with reference values. Further evaluations in test institutes were carried out. Furthermore, we report on diffuse reflectance measurements using a compact technology based on a single LED and integral detection with photodiodes[3]. By this approach, an estimation of SPF or UVA-PF values, can be achieved. First in vivo results[4] suggested the usefulness of the method in application studies, where a fast and simple estimation of relative changes of SPF values is advantageous. Recent applications of the device are the measurement of inhomogeneity of sunscreen distribution by hand versus an electrohydrodynamic spray applicator[5], sweat resistance of sunscreen products[6] and the effect of an additional film former on the sunscreen homogeneity and transmission[7]. [1] www.ALT-SPF.com [2] C. M. Throm et al., J. Biophotonics.2021;14:e202000348. [3] C. Reble et al., Optic & Photonic, vol. 13, no. 1, pp. 32-35, (2018). [4] S. Kobylinski et al, J. Biophotonics. 2021;14:e202000453. [5] J. Schleusener et al.,Skin Res Technol 2021; 27:191-200.doi: 10.1111/srt.12924. [6] A. Shahneh et al., poster FOBI, (2020). [7] V. H. P. Infante et al., Int. J. Pharm. 598 (2021) 120262.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care At present two inorganic materials Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) and Zinc Oxide (ZnO) and two organic materials Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (TBPT) and Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) are approved as nano-particulate UV-filters for personal care in Europe. TBPT and MBBT which are marketed only as nano-particulate UV-filters and are labelled accordingly. The safety of such nano-particles was thoroughly evaluated and proven, both are safe for human use. Nano-particulate organic UV filters show superior UV performance, and their availability as registered UV filters provides an opportunity in view of the raising concerns around other UV filters. The situation is more complex for inorganics since the constituent particles of TiO2 and ZnO are often part of agglomerates. Knowing whether a particulate filter is nano or non-nano is, however, essential since this has consequences on its approval requirements. There exist many techniques to measure particle size; however, their suitability depends on their measurement principle and the characteristics of the tested material. The NanoDefine project elaborated a decision flow scheme to support the identification of nanomaterials as required by the European legislation. The choice of the method, therefore, strongly depends on the characteristics of the investigated nanomaterial. The resulting list exhibits tier 1 (screening purposes) and tier 2 (confirmatory purposes) methods. We measured the number-based particle size distribution using the decision tree scheme of NanoDefine of marketed inorganic UV filters and of a market sunscreen based on ZnO. The study revealed that the used measurement method is key for the right classification of the particulate material as nano or non-nano

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care / Interface Interactions: Experiment & Modeling Oleosomes: Natural high-performance carrier systems for cosmetics Innovative, sustainable raw materials are novel and they provide additional benefits for the user/customer due to their outstanding performance. Oleosomes fulfil all the requirements of a modern high-tech carrier system for cosmetic applications. They are contained in all plant seeds and serve as a natural energy store for the seeds during germination. Oleosomes are microscopic spheres of plant oils and vitamin E surrounded by a single layer phospholipid/protein membrane. They are isolated as a 65% aqueous dispersion of oleosomes using a chemical-free, sustainable manufacturing process. Gentle separation and purification techniques enable the recovery of high performing NATRUE compliant oleosomes and proteins in their natural state. Compared to other carrier systems, such as liposomes, SLN, porous solids, etc., oleosomes can absorb large amounts of lipids with low energy input. Their performance is demonstrated, among other things, by their high load ability with solid and liquid organic sun protection filters. Initial studies have shown that the efficiency of organic filters in sunscreen formulations is significantly higher if they have been incorporated into oleosomes beforehand. The functionality of oleosomes depends largely on their compatibility in different cosmetic applications. Based on microscopic and rheological test results, the influences of oleosomes on emulsion gels and emulsions with liquid crystalline gel network structures (non-ionic, anionic, cationic) are discussed. Furthermore, results on the use of lipid- and active-loaded oleosomes in Rinse-off products with different surfactant systems are presented. A further formulation approach describes the use of oleosomes in oil-based formulations in the form of O/W/O emulsions.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care The Covid pandemic has presented us all with new challenges. Test institutes that conduct panel test studies had to find new ways at short notice. Above all, the protection of employees and volunteers is the top priority here. So the question arises, how can tests with volunteers still be carried out safely? In dental studies, a dentist needs to get very close to the volunteer's mouth (the site of potential infection). A disinfection of the oral cavity is not possible because it affects the test results. The SGS has found new ways to evaluate e.g. the plaque status on teeth through photography. The test can be carried out reproducibly with the help of mirrors, special photography techniques and adapted assessment.

Spoken Language: German Category: Personal Care Waste avoidance has many aspects, e.g. recycling of potential waste of the food industry, but also waste minimization and energy saving (e.g. locally produced raw materials), use of by-products of the food industry, which are used through special upcycling technologies to create efficient and sustainable materials for the production of high-performance cosmetics. Different ingredient concepts can be used to improve the performance of products in which the use of water is deliberately reduced. This lowers water consumption and energy costs during production, enables reduced use of preservatives, even avoids waste and helps to save the environment in a holistic way. Lecithin from soy residues, which can no longer be used in food production, provides raw materials that, with high technology, become raw materials for premium cosmetics with liposomes. In combination with fats, oils and waxes that come from upcycling processes, there are possibilities for multifunctional products in holistic body care. Using formulation examples for different product forms, it can be demonstrated how raw materials from No Waste concepts can form the complete basis for sustainable products.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care We can expect exciting digital and AI tools in the future in personal care, due to the advent of ever-increasing computing power, better predictive algorithms coupled with our extensive knowhow on cosmetic ingredients. In this lecture we will present our latest activities in Modelling & Simulation resulting in predictive tools, that help formulators to select the right products in their personal care products. We will share in detail the learnings made by us, in this journey.   We have recently launched a new digital tool on Emollients, which enables an user to uncover different natural emollient mixtures, as replacement solutions to synthetic market benchmarks. This tool will significantly cut formulation costs by providing knowledge-based solutions to formulators. Cyclomethicone, an often used ingredient till date in personal care products is facing significant regulatory pressure after being banned for use in the European Union due to its environmental impact. Similar constraints may be expected for linear Dimethicones in the near future. Moreover, end consumers are driving a natural free-from trend in personal care industry whereby, companies need to find natural alternatives to more and more synthetic cosmetic ingredients quickly. Our digital tool will assist formulators with this task, by providing access to natural emollient mixtures for a wide range of silicones, mineral oils and other hydrocarbon based synthetic oils. The future of cosmetics solutions is Digital, empowered by AI.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care In the EU, there has been uniform legislation for cosmetic products since 1976 with strict requirements for the safety of the products to human health. This legislation has undergone many changes since then and today the standard for cosmetic safety in the EU is higher than anywhere else in the world. A robust definition and comprehensive documentation - especially the safety assessment - are two examples. In recent years, other legislations have also increasingly influenced the cosmetics regulation, e.g. the regulations for nanomaterials or the chemical legislation - keyword CMR substances. The European Chemicals Strategy within the framework of the "Green Deal", which aims to further harmonize the assessment of chemicals in the EU, is currently presenting the cosmetics industry with further far-reaching challenges. This means that the European Cosmetics Regulation published in 2009 is also facing its first "major revision".

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care Safety and compatibility of cosmetic products are central requirements, compliance with which is essential for the marketing of cosmetic products. The substances and product types used in today's products must be professionally evaluated in accordance with the legal requirements. This requires meaningful and reproducible test methods, up-to-date procedures for data evaluation and extensive knowledge of the relevant product effects. Although skin tolerance testing on humans is often not specifically required according to legal requirements it is very relevant, nonetheless. Therefore this work group has set itself the task of evaluating study designs for skin compatibility testing that can be of help for safety assessors and products developers. Various test designs were evaluated as to their practical feasibility and relevance for skin compatibility testing of products. Based on the results and experiences made, test methods and recommendations were discussed and published. In a recently published study, the expert group set out to investigate to whether results obtained from epicutaneous patch testing (ECT) and use tests are comparable regarding skin compatibility of skin care products. Although ECTs are routinely used as a screening method for skin compatibility, they do not allow all reactions to be assessed and surprises can be encountered when using other test methods. During the study, transient immediate type skin reactions were encountered in use tests.  We could show that simple modifications of existing ECT protocol, can lead to important insights into immediate type skin reactions. These modifications can be used to create further building blocks in the development and optimization of test strategies for cosmetic formulations. Current topics are to investigate different variables found in existing ECT protocols and how they influence results of ECTs and the design of suitable tests for age-related skin products.You can find more information about our work group and the members at https://dgk-ev.de/sicherheit-und-vertraeglichkeit/.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care BACKGROUND: Skin cleansing is more than removal of dirt and unwanted residues. By using body wash products, a psycho-physiological dimension of efficacy can also be given due to an aromacological impact on mood, emotions, and well-being [1]. The purpose of the present study was to investigate such psycho-physiological effects of a shower. Therefore, we developed a study design, to reveal such aromacological effects under “realistic” product application by using the previously described OEA (Objective Emotional Assessment) [2].  METHODS: A randomized and controlled study was performed to evaluate the aromacological effect of a shower product in 43 female volunteers (20-55 years, MW 27.7 ± 6.67 SD). A citric-scented cosmetic product was compared to an unscented control product. The product impact was investigated by a standardized questionnaire (9-point Likert scale) and OEA, which was a combination of electrodermal activity (EDA), electrocardiogram (ECG), electroencephalogram (EEG) and electromyogram (EMG) and simultaneously recorded. After baseline measurement (120sec.) the product was applied under standardized washing procedure and the application was accompanied by a 40sec. OEA recording phase. The product evaluation by questionnaire was performed after product application and OEA. RESULTS: The citric-scented product has shown a relatively specific profile in the subjective assessment and can thereby be classified as positively activating. The product was among others assessed as “invigorating”, “refreshing”, “arousing”, “activating” and “mood-enhancing”. Moreover, the activating and stimulating efficacy was demonstrated by OEA measurements: an impact on the spontaneous fluctuations of electrodermal activity (by EDA), on the high-beta rate (by EEG) and on the heart rate variability (by ECG) was shown and interpreted as activating and stimulating product effect. CONCLUSION: Our study revealed activating and stimulating effects by application the citric scented body wash product, and thereby ensuring the possibility to use the present methodology for product testing and cosmetic claim substantiation.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care / Home Care Analysing body odour, can be of interest for various objectives in the development and improvement of several personal and home care products (like, deodorants, incontinence and female care, detergents). Sensory as well as chemical analyses methods are available. Selecting the right tool is essential to generate the results needed. If the objective is to determine body odour or its reduction, studies using selected and trained sniffers to evaluate the odour as perceived by a sensory panel is the means of choice up to today. There is no machine that can substitute the human nose in regards to human odour perception yet.   The GC-IMS (Ion Mobility Spectrometry Coupled with Gas Chromatography) can be used to generate a quick molecular fingerprint of body odour. This can be helpful if clusters should be generated determine which body odour compositions are similar/different. Additionally, the device can be trained to detect and measure molecules. The big advantage here is that the analysis takes only a couple of minutes in comparison to other more advanced systems like the GC-MS.   In general, chemical information is often useful for odour assessment, but it has its limitations. GC-MS-Sniffing combines the chemical information typically gained from gas chromatography and mass spectrometry with the sensory information (odour characteristics of each compound individually) provided by the human sensory system. To determine key odorant molecules associated with body odour, this technique is the most adequate. Usually, the responsible compounds are perceived in very low concentrations or are complex molecular structures. The human nose is able to detect them and due to describing the smell at the appearing retention time can support the identification of those key compounds. The present communication provides an overview on the available various methods to analyse body odour with an application to the Personal and Home care markets.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care The market for so-called dermocosmetic is growing globally. Such products can accompany the treatment of skin problems by cosmetic means and support the restoration of a healthy-looking appearance. At the same time, consumers increasingly request natural active ingredients from sustainable and regional sources. To effectively identify and study active ingredient candidates, we developed a new epidermis model mimicking atopic-prone skin. Such an epidermis equivalent allows to investigate structural changes and the release of inflammatory mediators, but also the evolution of the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus, whose flares play an important role in atopic-prone skin. With the help of this model, we could demonstrate so far unknown relations between interleukin release and colonization by Staphylococcus aureus. In this test system, a flavonoid-rich extract obtained from chestnut leaves proved to be highly efficient. The leaves are upcycled from organically cultivated trees. The extract’s efficacy was confirmed in numerous additional in vitro tests related to very dry skin with impaired barrier function. Furthermore, positive results could be obtained on adherence, virulence, and biofilm formation of Staphylococcus aureus, and in co-culture of the bacterium with macrophages and keratinocytes. The promising in vitro results were backed up by an in vivo study with 22 volunteers suffering from light to moderate atopic-prone skin. Throughout the application, skin condition improved significantly and trans-epidermal water loss decreased distinctly. The efficacy was also perceived by the volunteers, as confirmed by a volunteer survey. We are continuously developing new skin models, including those to mimicking skin problems, that we intend to use for the screening of potential active ingredient candidates. Recently, we introduced the first 3D bio-printed full-thickness skin model with human macrophages worldwide. It allows the investigation of the immune reaction of sensitive or reactive skin. The related publication was honored with the Henry Maso Award.

Lecture Language: English Category: Personal Care The members of the DGK’s “Hair Treatment” Working Group are drawn from the fields of cosmetic product developers & manufacturers, raw material suppliers, cosmetic testing institutes & academia. A short overview of the group’s activities - including the investigation of the technical and sensory performance of modern hair treatment products, especially in the fields of cleansing, care, color & and styling, and the organisation of training events (in particular for younger colleagues & newcomers to the profession) - will be provided. A more detailed presentation using the example of one of our more recent projects “Salon Testing as an Objective Tool for Product Development & Product Testing” will be used to demonstrate the use of round-robin testing in our working group & a discussion of the results obtained will be shared.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care Introduction: Concerns about the harmful effects of air pollutants on our health are increasing. The term air pollutants includes almost everything, from particulate matter and exhaust fumes to sunlight and heavy metals. Skin is exposed to environmental pollutants daily, which can lead to premature aging, skin barrier impairment, pigment disorders and cell damage. Already existing conditions such as dry or irritated skin and skin impurities can be aggravated. Cosmetic products with "anti-pollution" claims have been on the market for several years. However, there are hardly any standardized and universally accepted active ingredients or test methods to date that cover the many aspects of "anti-pollution". Methods and Results: The working group (WG) "Anti-pollution" of the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK), to advance science and systematics in this field, developed an interactive matrix on air pollution, its effects on the skin, cosmetic applications, as well as anti-pollution active ingredients and test methods. Literature was used to identify effects in and on the skin after exposure, and to evaluate various cosmetic applications and test methods. The results were presented in an interactive matrix, publicly available on the DGK website (Anti-Pollution - DGK e.V. (dgk-ev.de)) in German and English language. Discussion and conclusion: The anti-pollution matrix offers laymen and experts comprehensive information on the topics of air pollutants, their effects, how to measure them and what cosmetic options are available to reduce or avoid their negative effects on the skin. The matrix is a source of information to better understand the factors involved and addresses the challenges regarding efficacy claims. The implementation of the topic as an interactive software solution can encourage others to use such ways in presenting their knowledge content. Such a matrix also offers the possibility of knowledge transfer for other multi-layered topics of cosmetics.

Lecture Language: German Category: Personal Care Again and again, microbiological contamination of cosmetic products leads to product recalls. Why? What are the most common reasons for this? On the basis of practical experience, it will be explained how the trends of recent years in the cosmetic field have led to contamination caused by weak points in hygiene. Using a few very easy-to-implement tools, it is presented how everyone can act both correctively and preventively and how weak points can be easily identified.

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