Spoken Language: English

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Today's consumers are becoming more and more concerned about the impact cosmetic products can have on human health, the environment and society. Suppliers have made strides beyond the Clean Beauty trend over the past decade in terms of safety, transparency and origin of ingredients. The industry is heeding a new call to action all along the supply chain for significantly reducing our environmental footprint toward a “carbon neutral” beauty industry. Achieving these goals as key actors, requires beauty ingredient suppliers to find innovative and sustainable solutions thanks to the eco-design approach as well as a methodology for assessing the environmental impact associated with all life-cycle stages for commercial products, processes, or services. Beauty brands must turn to trusted raw material suppliers to help them navigate this challenging landscape and overcome a multitude of regulatory issues. One of the critical concerns in the hair care space today focuses on the lack of biodegradability with silicones, according to Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) standard tests. Our Solvay hair care experts have transformed this ongoing challenge into an offering rooted in the principles of Circular Beauty. Following the path from natural origin to biodegradability to net a negative carbon footprint, not only fulfills consumer expectations for more natural solutions, but also enables formulators to make significant steps toward carbon neutrality.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Amidst the global demand for cosmetics with a sense we developed two ingredients which share the same goal of providing consumers with natural and traceable products without compromising on benefits offered nor scientific merit. A safe alternative to retinoic acid was crafted from mango leaves to control sebum overexpression and protect skin microbiome while embracing the desire for mindfulness in cosmetics, as it is mindful of both sourcing, the Planet, and consumers. The raw material is ethically sourced in Burkina Faso. Under molecular docking & reverse molecular docking, the compound was shown to trigger PPAR, RXR and RAR receptors targeted by retinoids. The compound inhibits lipogenesis up to -90%. Sebaceous glands’ volume was reduced by -50%, with squalene, triglycerides and free fatty acids syntheses being significantly reduced too. The compound decreased the activity of Cutibacterium acnes by -87%, also reducing facial porphyrins. Clinical testing in double blind vs placebo was conducted on 3 types of skin ethnicities, ensuring inclusivity for women globally, regardless of age or skin type. A Vegan red pigment was eco-designed from the anthocyanin-rich Chinese red radish Raphanus Sativus L originating from Yunnan, 100% natural and 100% traceable. Anthocyanins are extracted from the roots, purified and blended with maltodextrin and clay, offering top-tier stability. The compound at 10% delivers better chroma (C*>60) and coverage (Contrast Ratio > 24%), while offering a shade akin to synthetic reference Red 36 lake. It also features antioxidant properties, protecting the fragile lips’ skin from free radicals. Evaluated through different standard tests (ORAC and CAT), and on human epidermal keratinocytes, the compound showed better antioxidant results than vitamin C, BHT and resveratrol. The compound gives consumers a clean, natural, cruelty-free and Vegan alternative for lipsticks, whose radiant red hue is often provided by synthetic pigments. Developed with mindfulness, delivering outstanding benefits.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care/ /Green Chemistry Aluminum salts are widely employed in antiperspirants due to their efficacy of blocking the flow of sweat. However, a serious concern around health issues forces the personal care industry to discover new alternatives that are as effective as aluminum. In Omya, we have developed a safer alternative that demonstrates an in-vitro superior clogging property by 30% compared to commercially available aluminum-based antiperspirants. This efficacy is confirmed with a novel device SOD4[1] by using microfluidic chip Smart-PoreTM that mimics the sweating process and measures the burst pressure in order to evaluate the clogging properties. The new technology is composed of high-purity calcium mineral and bio-sourced molecule. Due to its unique shape the novel composition does not only absorb sweat but also reduces sweat via a protein denaturation mechanism. It generates smaller and more compact clogs like “champagne cork” and prevents the sweat secretion. At the concentration of 10% the novel composition reaches a mean burst pressure of 1’000mbar which is comparable to a concentration of 25% ACH (Aluminium Chlorohydrate) and above. The uniqueness of the new technology lies in a “time-shift “capability enabling also the long lasting performance. [1] https://www.microfactory.eu

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry A desire for more natural and sustainable products is driving beauty trends in the hair care market towards naturally derived alternatives. Cellulose, a naturally derived polysaccharide, has been commonly used in hair care products as it can be modified with functional groups to tune its physical and chemical properties. Recently, new researches have led to the development of an innovative technology: cationic and hydrophobic modified hydroxyethyl cellulose (cat-hmHEC polymer) which is a versatile bio-derived and biodegradable cellulose-based polymer with 48% bio-derived content for hair conditioner. Compared to the traditional cellulose-based polymers, cat-hmHEC polymer contains a more hydrophobic moiety, offering unique performance benefits without polymer build up. This new cat-hmHEC polymer has comparable performance to silicone in wet combing and reduced breakage. Sensory panel studies showed that cat-hmHEC polymer provides better feel and dry combing compared to amodimethicone, while increasing the biobased content and biodegradability of the conditioning polymer. Cat-hmHEC also provides hair manageability, hair alignment and allows hair to retain a high degree of hydrophobicity translating into healthier hair. The deposition of the cat-hmHEC polymer on the hair surface was analyzed with FTIR microscopes and XPS. The results correlated with the objective application testing and subjective sensory feel parameters, which is important to the consumer. This class of polymers can be used with or without silicones and can be structurally modified to meet the desired aesthetics while increasing the naturality of a wide range of formulations.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Very recently, multifunctional cosmetic ingredients have been experiencing a green transformation as nature-derived materials have been appearing on the market, offering alternatives for use even in completely green finished products or to make products greener. An example is pentylene glycol derived from bagasse. Since the first 1,2-alkanediol, which happens to be pentylene glycol, was launched 30 years ago, several other chain lengths of this chemistry - C6/C8/C10 - have been introduced on the market, covering a range of benefits for cosmetic formulations. The new substance that we are going to introduce here was curiously missing from this homologous series until this year. No longer the odd one out, this unique uneven carbon alkanediol exceeded obvious expectations of performance based on its structure and has proven to be a venerable member of this family of multifunctionals, complementing the portfolio of 1,2-alkanediols. Its optimal chain length combines the liquid form and water solubility of shorter diols with the efficacy of longer ones. As a tribute to the green path towards the future of multifunctionals, the new substance is 100% nature-derived and sourced from the castor bean plant and therefore not competing with foodstocks. Innovation doesn't stop. It just moves to new pastures.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Consistency, texture and feel are sensory properties that play a crucial role in a product’s success in the market. Different types of market-available rheology modifiers allow formulators to create products with varying appearances and textures. These include natural gums, like xanthan gum; modified naturals, like cellulose derivatives; and synthetics, like acrylic polymers. While these technologies can bring added value, they can come with limitations and even obstacles as well in terms of current regulations and sustainability concerns. Personal care formulation development today necessitates the consideration of environmental impact. Consumers want effective cosmetic products with the right aesthetics, while maximizing the long-term beneficial impact on the environment and society. Discover Solvay’s new biotech beauty ingredient, a readily biodegradable rheology modifier that helps solve the challenges in front of current benchmarks. Its origin and flexibility enables the creation of high-performing formulations proven to be safer for humans and the environment without overconsuming or exhausting resources. This win-win ingredient is a ready-to-use liquid natural polymer solution that won’t impact the viscosity of a formulation while delivering high-suspension power in rinse-off cosmetic products.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Green Chemistry Mindful use of resources and especially water has been evolving over the past years to a trend. Product concentrates, requiring less water in formulation and production play an important role. Several ingredient concepts can be used to boost the performance of these product concentrates which contain less or no water. Multifunctional particles and liposoluble ingredients are available tob e easily formulated in these mindful cosmetic products. Solid product forms which transform during application into creams, cleansing lotions etc. require water free active ingredients. Natural oils are emollients and maintain the skin function. Tsubaki oil, for example, has a proven anti-pollution effect. Natural clay powder mixes, which can be added at any stage of the formulation process, absorb sebum and sweat. Some mixtures have anti-aging effects. Based on formulation examples of solid product forms it will be demonstrated how easy boosting of the performance can be.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Well-being is a trend which has been gaining a lot of momentum recently particularly in the context of the COVID-19 crisis.  Neuro- cosmetics are the next logical step in the move towards well-being.  This conference will explore the topic of neurosciences and present some ingredients that enhance mood and emotions. Our journey will start with understanding what neuro-cosmetics really means for consumers.  We will briefly decode consumer needs and behaviors and look at some market examples. After clarifying the difference between emotion and mood, we will navigate through the brain and see where emotions and moods are created. The close relationship between the nervous, immune and endocrine systems will be described.  We will try to understand how skin communicates with the brain and vice versa. Examples of neurotransmitters, neuronal growth factors and neuro receptors will be given.  We will also describe how to measure neuro-signals via in-vitro and ex-vivo tests. Body fluid and heart rate analysis, electrodermal responses analysis, sensory evaluation, brain imaging by electro or magneto encephalography and behavior measurements will be presented as methods to measure moods and emotions. Some examples of active ingredients which target neuro/inflammatory mediators and neuro-receptors will be shown. Our journey will end with a futuristic view on neurosciences.  This will be an opportunity to touch base on topics such as epigenetics and psychobiotics and propose an holistic approach to cosmetic product development.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care / Chronobiology By modulating clock genes and circadian modulators, and by boosting “Brain-Skin” axis pathways (like oxytocin), the Andrographis paniculata leaf extract revitalizes the skin. Tested on night/shift workers, it significantly reduces the impacts on skin & mood of fatigue induced by modern lifestyles. The Active is 100% natural and titrated in andrographolide sourced from the leaves of the green chiretta. Defining the Mindful Beauty Trend Mindful Beauty in the next phase of natural, wellness and self care cosmetics. Choosing plant based ingredients and to develop a respectful relationship with one´s own skin and the world around is a major cosmetic trend. Vitaly potent Natural Ingredients. The purified extract of the leaves of Green Chiretta Andrographis paniculata is titrated in andrographolide and well known as a major detoxifying plant in Ayurveda. Unique Chronobiological Approach for a Yoga like Effect. GreenChiretta modulates skin circadian clock, by restoring a “young” invigorating clock gene expression profile in old/tired keratinocytes and by acting on circadian modulators related to key cellular pathways. GreenChiretta extends cell longevity, reduces cell damages, promoting skin revitalization. GreenChiretta also acts as a “Brain-Skin” axis booster, enhancing oxytocin, endocannabinoid and endorphin signaling pathways to relax skin. In line with the Inner Clock for a Restored and Fresh Look. Clinically tested on night/shift workers during 28 days, GreenChiretta was proved to significantly reduce facial visible signs of fatigue (eye bags, dark circles, under-eye wrinkles, dull tone) and the impacts of fatigue on mood: the feeling of well-being was boosted, the perceived stress and the negative affect were reduced (“yoga-like” effect). GreenChiretta is a chrono-detox active ingredient providing a “feel good energizing” effect. For brands who´s customers care what they put in and on their body. Cosmos & China approved

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care One of the dominant topics of cosmetic and dermatological research in recent times is the microbiome of human skin. The common understanding is that a balanced microbiome contributes to healthy skin. Numerous studies have been carried out to investigate the influence of different factors on the composition of the microbiome. In general, the broader the diversity of the skin microbiome the better it is for skin health.   Currently there is an increasing number of cosmetic products on the market which claim positive effects on the microbiome and lead to improved skin condition. Some concerns have been raised that antimicrobials contained in deodorants or preservatives systems could have a negative impact on the composition and diversity of the skin microbiota. Understanding the long-term effect of preservatives and multifunctional ingredients used in cosmetic products on the composition of the skin microbiome is of high interest. Therefore we analysed the impact on the skin microbiome of the two most commonly used antimicrobial active ingredients. In this study we can show that there are no changes in the microbiome composition and diversity after several weeks of exposure to an effectively preserved cosmetic product. 

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Staying fresh and confident all day long is a challenge for many people in the world. To keep cool, our organism naturally produces sweat that helps to decrease body temperature but this is usually associated with body odor. Different strategies to reduce sweat malodor already exist in the cosmetic industry, either by targetting sweat production itself or by reducing the amount of axillary bacteria. However, these solutions often do not take into account the importance of preserving a healthy microbiome. While axillary bacteria responsible for malodor formation have been identified, most anti-microbial agents have a broad spectrum of action. Those tend to have a negative impact on the microbiome and can lead to a less diverse ecosystem with the dominance of single species. Knowing this, we developed a human underarm ex-vivo microbiome model based on fresh human sweat to screen ingredients effective on controlling malodor and minimizing the impact on the microbiome. This tool focuses on sweat evolution over time and provides information ranging from the odor intensity (assessed by a sniffing panel) to metabolite composition (analysed by GC-MS, HPLC-MS) while monitoring the axillary microbiome via 16S rRNA gene sequencing. We found that menthyl lactate reduces sweat malodor up to 48 hours without targeting broadly all axillary bacteria. It specifically acts on the amount of anaerobic bacteria in the ex vivo sweat model and reduces only relevant bacteria such as Moraxella, Anaerococcus and Finegoldia. Menthyl lactate prevents known malodorous compounds as well, such as butyric acid, to be formed in the sweat, which is shown in our metabolite analysis. Then, menthyl lactate brings the perfect mix of freshness and body odor control with microbiome benefits. Keywords: Cooling; Deodorant; Sweat microbiome; ex vivo model

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Skin Care Did you know that our skin needs the light to be healthy and produce the essential hormone Vitamin D (the sun vitamin)? Did you know that vitamin D levels are critically decreased due to in-house habits, and an excess of sun protection cream use? Nowadays, VitD levels are very low which is crucial for our health. A topical VitD booster would be a very interesting counteracting strategy to start living in ‘more exposed’ routines. Based on plant cell culture technology, Vytrus has investigated and developed an active that opens a new paradigm in skin ageing: plant stem cell glycoconjugates that stimulates VitD synthesis by optimizing the skin microenvironment. Promoting this optimized microenvironment by a strong spatial organization of cell membranes, light use maximizing, and boosting of water deep reserve. The active is made from Lithops pseudotruncatella cell cultures through the company newest Technology Platform: the Phyto-Glucidic Fractions (PGFs). It ignites the VitD production to compensate the lack of sun exposure and strengthen, revitalize, volumize, and glow the faded skin. Several innovative in-vitro an in-vivo tests have demonstrated a multi-activity and holistic approach in the field of topical VitD synthesis induction: In-vitro tests: -Antioxidant and anti-collagenase activity -Fibroblast proliferation -Induction of VitD and Lumisterol synthesis in both keratinocytes and fibroblasts In-vivo tests: -Skin glow and dewiness boosting (polarized light) -Stimulation of skin-deep layers tissular water (1mm depth) measured by a Hyperspectral camera, the latest in photonic medical device to measure the optical properties of the skin -Evaluation of water retention capacity increase -Normalization of skin respirometry (Oxygen and CO2 production) -Facial volume increase linked to the increasing in water turgor (Active stereoscopy)

Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Skin Care Sunscreens are a still rising cosmetic product category, designed to prevent premature skin aging and the generation of skin cancer. In recent years, new requirements on sun protection and proof of protective capabilities have been established. These are mainly based on the discovery that 50% of the free radicals, formed by solar irradiation, arise in the visible and infrared spectral regions. If skin is exposed to UV/VIS light, up to a dose necessary to produce the optimal amount of vitamin D, predominantly ROS radicals are formed. Any further increase of the dose towards the MED leads to a dominance of lipid peroxide radicals (LOS) which are known to have strong damaging effects. Sunburn starting at one MED represents visible skin damage. Considering the role of free radicals in these processes, sunscreens must go beyond the UV, providing light protection in the complete solar spectrum.. Since there are no colorless filter substances in the VIS/IR regions, a protective function can be created using antioxidants and pigments. Studies on test subjects of the same age (50 years) show that people with a high antioxidant concentration in their skin developed less signs of skin aging than people with a low antioxidant status. Looking at the formation of free radicals in different skin types, it could be shown that people with skin type IV–V exhibit significantly fewer free radicals in the UV region than people with skin type I–III. In the infrared spectral region, it is the other way round. A second methodical trend in sun protection is to replace the human volunteers-based invasive SPF determination by non-invasive methods. Latest developments based on a „photon banana”, permit to detect backscattered light from skin treated with sunscreen and thus to determine the SPF non-invasively.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other Creating an emotional link between the user and the cosmetic product is one of the most powerful ways to build loyalty. At the intersection of neuroscience, computer science and marketing, it involves a multifactor approach including company image, brand values, packaging. Focusing on the formula, color and perfuming are well known as an integral part of the customer's emotional experience. Providing evidence and characterizing the impact of the “nude texture” is more challenging, especially if one seeks to determine the influence of the different ingredients and to identify those driving the emotions. The purpose of this work was to explore different methodologies, using verbal and non verbal measurement techniques, to collect the emotional potential of minimalist skin care formulas and pillar ingredients. Different methods were investigated under the supervision of neuroscience experts, such as prosody and gesture, Sense & Story journey, R3m score©, Innovative electrophysiological real-time evaluation. An innovative in vitro fully human innervated reconstructed epidermis also allowed to investigate nociception and physiopathology response. The results demonstrated that the “nude formula” plays a role on emotional potential and type of emotions generated while changing one ingredient mostly acts on emotions intensity (excipient). Verbatim provided contrasted answers depending on the protocol. The in vitro model substantiated physiological effects of ingredients on human skin sensory neurons activity.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other /Hair Care Hair aging is characterized by greying, loss and thinning of hair. It is considered as an aesthetic problem and might cause major psychological distress in affected individuals. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is looking for mild and natural treatment options. We investigated an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum, var. Helvetia,  particularly rich in leontopodic acid), for its ability to work against hair aging. Our data on human hair follicles ex vivo show that the extract is able to significantly prolong the hair growth phase anagen and to increase keratinocyte proliferation in the hair matrix, both associated with hair growth mechanisms. In addition, there was a donor-dependent increase in the hair follicle’s melanin content, suggesting positive effect on hair pigmentation. Regarding anti-hair loss, we performed a 150 day placebo controlled clinical study on Caucasian volunteers (both male and female, age 18-65, 30 volunteers per group). We found a significant increase in hair density (Trichoscan) over time and against placebo formulation (+ 13%, p = 0.0002) which was underlined by an increase in anagen to telogen ratio (Trichogram) (+ 6.7%, p = 0.06 vs placebo), which is in line with the data on hair follicles. In a similar manner, we performed a 120 day placebo controlled anti-hair greying clinical study, on Caucasian volunteers (both male and female, age 18-45, 30 volunteers per group). Trichoscan analysis showed a significant increase of pigmented hairs for the Edelweiss extract over time (+13%, p = 0.020), and against the placebo group (p = 0.026). In summary, we provide evidence that an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB) has a solid hair anti-aging effect ex vivo and in vivo.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other / Skin Care and Skin Health in Times of Changing Lifestyle Frankincense has been used for thousands of years in a wide variety of cultures for its wide range of effects, up to and including medicinal applications, with particular emphasis on its anti-inflammatory properties. A large number of studies showed that an application of 3-O-acetyl-11-keto-β-boswellic acid (AKBA) has strong anti-inflammatory effects and is therefore not only an interesting natural ingredient in cosmetics, but also in the medical field (1). Premature aging of the skin in particular can be due to both external causes such as negative environmental influences (UV radiation, pollutants, chemical irritants) and internal causes such as silent inflammatory processes caused by oxidative stress. Aging and also inflamed skin is reflected in the loss of elasticity, of wrinkling, dryness and a susceptibility to frequent or localized redness as well as discomfort with the sensation of tense or burning skin. The main disadvantage of dermal application of the lipophilic active ingredient AKBA is its low uptake and penetration into deeper skin layers. By encapsulating the frankincense extract in an O/W nanoemulsion, the Lipo-Tops, efficient accumulation even in deeper skin layers was demonstrated six hours after application, favoured by small particle sizes of the Lipo-Tops (2). Furthermore, the stability of the carrier system and of the encapsulated boswellic acid AKBA over a period of three months was demonstrated as well as their biocompatibility as a prerequisite for a safe and non-irritating application on the skin (3). Lipo-Tops Boswellin are suitable for a variety of applications such as care of aging skin, oxidative stress, exceptional skin stress and also in medical skin care. Literature 1. Ammon H.P.T.; „Weihrauch – Anwendung in der westlichen Medizin“  Springerverlag 2018 2. Karl B. et al.; Poster DPhG Tagung Hamburg, Oktober 2018  3. Karl B. et al.; International Journal of Pharmaceutics 587 (2020) 119635

Spoken Language: English Category: Cosmetic Science / Other / Boosting Vitamin C Vitamin C darling in skin care is a great anti oxidant , helps fibroblasts to produce and secrete collagen , in melanocytes it reduces tyrosinase activity .  Vitamin C is desirable for the skin with specific transporters : STVC 1  and  2 . However ascorbic acid ( AA ) is very fragile and can be easily oxidized , therefore deactivated .  Skin has also OCTN 's , seen as carnithine transporters . In fact , OCTN1 ,  present in all cells of the skin and in the nucleus membranes transports Ergothioneine ( EGT ). Is there a synergy between ergothioneine and ascorbic acid ? EGT  is produced by fermentation , reactions and purification . First test was to mix EGT with AA at ratios of 1 to 10 AA , 37 C , 5 hours . Without EGT , ascorbic acid is oxidized in 5 hours but 75 % of ascorbic acid is not with EGT. Alloxan was added to generate free radicals to oxidize ascorbic acid in 3 hours ; 40 % is not oxidized with EGT . A formula ,  after a week  at 45 C ,  with 1%  Ascorbic acid turned yellow but did not adding 0.005 % of EGT .  EGT was added to Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate at 1 % in fibroblasts . 16 hours later there was 3 times more ascorbic acid intact in the cells with or without EGT . EGT / vitamin C at 1 / 100 doubled the production of collagen 1 , multiplied by twelve the production of collagen 3 compared to no use of EGT . EGT / Vit C at 1 for 100 on melanocytes cut melanisation in half compared to no use of EGT .  These experiences confirmed the synergy and boosting of EGT on Ascorbic Acid.

Spoken Language: English Category: Personal Care / Other Cannabidiol (CBD), a major phytocannabinoid found in Cannabis sativa L., has gained increasing interest in the world of cosmetics. Unlike tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), another cannabinoid found in hemp plants, CBD is not psychoactive and offers numerous health benefits, including anti-anxiety, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties as well as the potential to reduce pain sensation, nausea, and seizures. In the skin, CBD exert effects on pain sensation, inflammation, and the regulation of epidermal homeostasis. Whereas the biochemical function of CBD is well understood for systemic applications, the effects in topical applications are still less clear. In our own studies, we looked at the gene expression in skin explants after treatment with CBD and could not identify any modulation of specific mechanisms. A combination of CBD and Swiss Stone Pine (Pinus cembra) extract containing high concentrations of Pinosylvin, however, showed synergistic effects on anti-inflammatory and tissue regeneration activities in keratinocytes. In a clinical study, using a CBD nano-emulsion combined with the Pinosylvin-containing extract we found a smoothing effect with a reduction of skin roughness and wrinkles induced by the relaxing properties of the treatment. Moreover, the treatment with CBD and Pinosylvin improved the skin tone by reducing haemoglobin and melanin levels in the skin, an effect that can be attributed to the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of these compounds. Thus, the topical application of CBD or combined synergistic treatments with CBD result in further beneficial and visible effects on the skin that are based on the anti-inflammatory and soothing nature of CBD.

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