Neue wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse und aktuellste Produktentwicklungen aus der Industrie finden in unseren Vorträgen der Scientific Conference und des Forum for Innovations ihren verdienten Platz.
09:00 - 09:30
Functional Nanosystems for the Transport of Active Ingredients
Prof. Dr. R. Haag, Freie Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English In this presentation I will give an overview for the stabilization of active ingredients by functional nanocarriers based on dendritic and linear polyglycerols. Due to their highly bioinert nature these new surfactants have great potential for the transport of active ingredients in biological systems. Recent Publications: 1) O. Wagner, J. Thiele, M. Weinhart, L. Mazutis, D. A. Weitz, W. T. S. Huck, R. Haag, Lab Chip 2016, 16, 65-69. Biocompatible fluorinated polyglycerols for droplet microfluidics as an alternative to PEG-based copolymer surfactants. 2) O. Wagner, B. N. S. Thota, B. Schade, F. Neumann, J. L. Cuellar, C. Böttcher, R. Haag, Polym. Chem., 2016, 7, 2222-2229. Perfluoroalkylated linear polyglycerols and their supramolecular assemblies in aqueous solution 3) I. N. Kurniasih, J. Keilitz, R. Haag, Chem. Soc. Rev., 2015, 44, 4145-4164. Dendritic Nanocarriers Based on Hyperbranched Polymers.
Spoken Language: English Similar to conventional surfactants or lipids also suitable amphiphilic block copolymers can self-assemble in aqueous media to micelles or membrane-like superstructures. The physical properties of these membranes can be controlled via the chemical constitution, the molecular weight and the hydrophilic-to-hydrophobic block length ratio of these polymers. For that purpose we synthesized and characterized a whole series of related block copolymers . Interestingly such systems offer also the possibility of controlled drug encapsulation and release [2,3]. Compared to conventional low molar mass blocks, membranes based on macromolecular self-assembly, can not only have the advantage of superior stability and toughness, but in addition offer numerous possibilities of tailoring physical, chemical and biological properties since many functions can be implemented simultaneously in one single macromolecule . Well-defined functions can also be introduced by combining these superstructures with suitable functional units from Nature, e.g., by incorporation of integral membrane proteins. It has to be emphasized many integral membrane proteins can be functionally reconstituted in block copolymer membranes despite the considerable dimensional mismatch between the membranes and the proteins . Frequently during reconstitution experiments, the membrane proteins are randomly inserted into lipid or polymer membranes without any preferred direction. Unfortunately many potential technical applications of such reconstituted systems depend on the correct orientation of the protein. In contrast to conventional low molar mass lipids amphiphilic block copolymers offer here a particularly interesting approach. Different water-soluble polymers are inherently incompatible and undergo phase separation in aqueous media . Hence, membranes formed by ABC triblock copolymers (with water soluble blocks A and C and a hydrophobic middle block B) are asymmetric: one side is predominantly covered by the blocks A and the other by the blocks B. This leads to (thermodynamically stable !?) vesicles with chemically different inner and outer surface and, simultaneously, the resulting ABC membranes represent an asymmetric matrix for the directed insertion of membrane proteins . References  C.G. Palivanet al., Chem. Soc. Rev. 2016, 45, 377  X. Zhanget al. Biomaterials 2016 89, 79  D. Najer et al. Meier ACS Nano 2014, 8(12), 12560  F. Itel et al. Macromolecules 2014 47, 7588; F. Itel et al Nano Letters, 2015 15(6), 38718  R. Stoenecu et al, Chem. Commun. 2002, 3016, Macromol. Biosci. 2004, 4, 930; Y. Matteret al., Macromolecular Chemistry and Physics 2011, 212(9), 937; E. Konishcheva, et al, Macromolecules 2017, 50 (4), 1512
10:00 - 10:30
Complexes of Polyelectrolytes with Oppositely Charged Microemulsion Droplets – An Investigation of Structure and Dynamics
Prof. Dr. Michael Gradzielski, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: English By mixing polyelectrolytes (PE) with oppositely charged colloids one modifies the structural and rheological properties of the system. For the case of surfactants that leads to surfactant/polyelectrolyte complexes (SPECs). The contained micelles are often used as carriers for drug molecules, pollutants, reactants and similar substances that otherwise could not be dispersed in the solvent. Therefore it is of high interest to investigate the behavior of ‘loaded carriers’, as they are present in the form of microemulsion droplets, which often behave quite differently to the respective (empty) micelles. Accordingly we studied mixtures of positively charged O/W microemulsion (ME) droplets with negatively charged polyelectrolytes. Based on a thorough determination of the phase behavior, the combination of static and dynamic light scattering (SLS, DLS) and employing small-angle neutron scattering it was possible to obtain a detailed characterization of the formed complexes in terms of size, shape and composition. Furthermore, the interconnected nature of the droplet aggregates leads to changes in dynamics which were studied using pulsed field gradient NMR (PFGNMR), neutron spin-echo (NSE) and fluorescence correlation spectroscopy (FCS). This way, it was possible to determine the dynamical behavior of free microemulsion droplets as well as of droplets bound in complexes, information that gives detailed insights into the dynamic aspect of such mixed colloidal systems. In our experiments we varied size and charge density of the droplets, and the type and Mw of the PE. From that we gain a comprehensive picture of the formed complexes and how their detailed structure depends on their molecular composition, as well as the interactions prevailing here. The ME – PE aggregates serve as a model system for systems with a high solubilization capacity, as required in formulations containing a large amount of oil or hydrophobic agents with controlled viscosity and internal mobility, both required for optimized delivery. Thereby these mixtures open up the way for tailor-made formulations with a much higher loading capacity than normal SPECs.
11:00 - 11:30
Shizophrenic Amphiphilic Polymers: Turning Surfactants Upside-Down and Micelles Inside-Out
Prof. Dr. André Laschewsky, University of Potsdam
Spoken Language: English Introduction Zwitterionic polymers are much studied for highly biocompatible and non-immunogenic materials, by virtue of their similarity to cell membranes that are made mostly of zwitterionic phospholipids. Amidst the various families of polyzwitterion classes, poly(sulfobetaine)s excel by their chemical and physical stability, as well as the pH-independence of their zwitterionic character.1 Furthermore, many poly(sulfobetaine)s show thermo-responsive behavior in aqueous media. Remarkably, and in contrast to most thermo-responsive water-soluble polymers known so far, which show a coil-to-globule collapse transition with a lower critical solution temperature (LCST), polysulfobetaines may undergo such a transition showing an upper critical solution temperature (UCST).1-2 Exploring the use of poly(sulfobetaine)s blocks as versatile building blocks for "smart" and biocompatible polymers, we have designed a series of dual-responsive double-hydrophilic block copolymers.3 These copolymers are composed of zwitterionic and non-ionic blocks, and consequently feature an UCST as well as a LCST transition. When adjusting the structure of the polymer blocks properly, this enables a stepwise switching of the copolymers from an amphiphilic character at low temperatures, to a fully soluble, double-hydrophilic polymer at intermediate temperatures, and again back to an amphiphile at further elevated temperatures. In this course of transformations, the roles of the hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks are exchanged, and the micellar structures turn inside-out. This pattern of self-assembly is often referred to as "schizophrenic".4) We shall report on suitable polymer designs, homo- and (block) copolymer synthesis, options for tuning the phase transition, as well as the various responsive aggregation behaviors. References: 1) A. Laschewsky, Polymers 2014, 6, 1544. 2) V. Hildebrand et al., Polym. Chem. 2016, 7, 731, and ibid. 2017, 8, 310. 3) N. Vishnevetskaya et al., Macromolecules 2016, 49, 6655 and refs. therein 4) J. V. M. Weaver et al., Chem. Commun. 2002, 38, 2122
11:30 - 12:00
Properties of Microemulsions with Long-Chain n-Alkanes and Waxes
Apl. Prof. Dr. Thomas Sottmann, University of Stuttgart
Spoken Language: English Microemulsions are thermodynamically stable, macroscopically isotropic mixtures of at least three components: a hydrophilic one, a hydrophobic one, and a surfactant. Their general features, i.e. the complex phase behaviour, the ultra-low interfacial tensions and the multifarious nanostructure, have been systematically elucidated in the last century . However, the efficient solubilization of long-chain n-alkanes and waxes, which plays a significant role in enhanced oil recovery, washing, and cosmetics, remains a challenge. Thus, in this work the influence of the n-alkane chain length k on the phase behavior of ternary microemulsion systems of the type water, n-alkane, and nonionic surfactant was studied. Using n-alkanes ranging from n-octane (C8H18) to n-dotriacontane (C32H66) and monodisperse n-alkyl polyglycol ether (CiEj) surfactants, we found that the efficiency of the respective surfactant decreases linearly with increasing n-alkane chain length, while the phase inversion temperature shows a logarithmic dependence. The influence of a technical wax on the phase behavior was studied by means of the systems H2O ─ SASOLWAX 5805 (Sasol Germany GmbH) ─ C16E6. The fact that both the phase inversion temperature and the efficiency are similar to the respective system with n-octacosane (C28H58) indicates that SASOLWAX 5805 exhibits an average chain length k≈28. Finally, the monodisperse surfactants were replaced with technical grade ethoxylates. Although we found that already Genapol O 080 (Clariant) allows for a fairly good solubilization of long-chain n-alkanes, we currently work on the improvement of the solubilization efficiency, e.g. by using surfactants with different molecular structures. 1. T. Sottmann and R. Strey, Microemulsions in Fundamentals of Interface and Colloid Science, Volume V, edited by J. Lyklema, Academic Press (2005).
12:15 - 12:45
Gelling Lyotropic Liquid Crystals with Low Molecular Weight Gelators
Prof. Dr. Cosima Stubenrauch, University of Stuttgart
Spoken Language: English Lyotropic liquid crystals (LCs) originate from the self-assembly of amphiphilic molecules into anisometric micelles or extended lamellae which, in turn, organize into long-range ordered anisotropic fluids. As we have recently shown, the lyotropic liquid crystalline order can be arrested by the addition of certain low-molecular weight gelators, which form self-assembled fibrillar networks (SAFINs) within the liquid crystal and in this way convert the liquid crystalline fluid (sol) into a gel. These gelled lyotropic LC phases constitute a new class of soft materials, which combine the anisotropy of lyotropic liquid crystals with the mechanical stability of gels. The unique selling point of gelled lyotropic LC phases is the fact that the two coexisting structures can take over two different functions. They are thus promising tools for the design of new functional materials, the potential applications of which range from transdermal drug delivery, soft templating and anisotropic electrolytes to stimuli-responsive actuators. The most prominent example of a „natural“ gelled LC phase is the cell. There are various strategies via which one can form a gelled LC phase one of which is orthogonal self-assembly, i.e. the independent but simultaneous formation of two coexisting self-assembled structures within one system. This contribution aims at describing the structure and potential applications of various gelled LC phases and at clarifying whether the respective system is formed via orthogonal self-assembly. For this purpose, previous as well as current research activities will be presented and future perspectives will be addressed.
Spoken Language: English
14:30 - 15:00
Influence of surfactants on Self-Assembly of Low Molecular Weight Gelators
Dr. Peter Schmiedel, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA
Spoken Language: English Low molecular weight Gellants (LMWGs) with a molecular mass lower than 1000Da are capable of spontaneous thermo-reversible non-covalent orthogonal self-assembling into a stable three-dimensional network of solid fibers that are able to immobilize the solvent in the meshes. LMWGs often show an orthogonal self-assembled behavior which means that two self-assembled structures coexist within the same system without influencing one another. In recent times, LMWGs have been developed as organogellants and it has been observed that the ability to gelate water was found by serendipity rather than by design . Now low molecular weight hydrogellants have a growing interest in the scientific literature since they include positive aspects like the high level of molecular organization which is the reason for the formation of a strong and stable gel network even by using a small amount of the gellant agent. Furthermore, their properties can be tailor-made and they are biocompatible . They have an increasing potential in industrial, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food sections . When the LMWGs are contacted with amphiphilic additives, a complex rheology can occur. In this work, the interactions of LMWGs with surfactants are studied to work out their effects on the rheological behavior of LMWGs and to understand their impact on the kinetics of gel formation. In addition, the compactness of the gel network in presence of surfactant is determined by fitting the Dickinson model to experimental data which provides insight into the gel structure .  P.J. Flory, Faraday Discuss. 57 (1974), p. 7.  J.H. van Esch, Langmuir 25 (2009), p. 8392.  L.A. Estroff and A.D. Hamilton, Chem. Rev. 104 (2004), p. 1201.  B. Xing, C.W. Yu, K.H. Chow, P.L. Ho, D. Fu and B.J. Xu, Am. Chem. Soc. 124 (2002), p. 14846.  E. Dickinson, J. Chem. Soc., Faraday Trans. 93 (1997), p. 111.
15:00 - 15:30
Presentation of GDCh Division Group Award, Oral Presentation of the Young Academics Award Winner
Dr. Dieter Boeckh Chairman of the GDCH Division of Detergency and Formulations
Spoken Language: English
16:00 - 16:20
Characterization of Molecular Self-Assembly of Surface Active CO2/EO Compounds in Aqueous Solution
Vivian J. Spiering, Technische Universität Berlin
Spoken Language: German Using CO2 as a raw material in the production of polymeric materials is a viable alternative to the conventional, petroleum-based raw materials and therefore offers great potential for sustainable chemistry. CO2 containing surface active compounds show characteristic molecular self-assembly behavior in aqueous solution, just as normally observed for nonionic surfactants. These novel compounds are yielding nanoscaled structures i. e., micelles, of different shapes, and are relevant for practical applications. In this study we presents the characterization of these CO2 containing surface active compounds with respect to concerning their colloidal properties, surface activity, and their self-assembly behavior. Compounds with different CO2 content are compared here in a systematic fashion. The surface-active behavior is characterized via surface tension measurements, which also allows to determine the critical micellar concentration (CMC). In addition, the fluorescent dye pyrene, which shows different fluorescence spectra depending on solvent polarities, was used to determine the CMC via fluorescence spectroscopy to validate the CMC values. Finally, the micellar structure was characterized by dynamic (DLS) and static (SLS) light scattering as well as by small angle neutron scattering (SANS), where the latter gives detailed insights into the mesoscopic organization. From the scattering data a consistent picture of the micellar structure as a function of concentration as well as of the temperature can be obtained. As a result we can conclude that the CO2 containing surface active compounds are interesting amphiphilic molecules with a high degree of versatility towards applications and are in particularly appealing as they are associated to a more sustainable chemistry production than conventional amphiphiles.
16:20 - 16:40
Mimicking Natural Membranes Utilizing Transmembrane Protein-Polymer Conjugates
Dr. Ulrich Glebe, University of Potsdam
Spoken Language: English We aim to develop ultra-thin self-assembled membranes with tailored transmembrane proteins acting as the pores. Protein-polymer conjugates of such protein nanopores can be assembled and crosslinked at interfaces, hence generating membranes with a polymer matrix around the transmembrane proteins. The membranes can be formed at water/air and water/oil interfaces with high stability despite the low thickness. In case of stabilizing oil/water emulsions, a so-called Pickering emulsion is formed. Our emulsions are stable for over 40 days and can be envisioned as capsules with selective transport or triggered release through the protein channel which could prove useful in drug delivery and healthcare applications. Membranes at planar interfaces will be presented as filtration devices for the isolation of functional ingredients in cosmetics and pharmaceutical sector. The presentation covers protein engineering to prepare functional transmembrane proteins well suited for the synthesis of protein-polymer conjugates. The latter are synthesized by controlled radical polymerization via the grafting-from technique. The responsivity of the polymer chains is used to tailor the properties of the conjugates for desired applications. Due to the high interfacial activity of protein-polymer conjugates, they can be assembled at interfaces and subsequently crosslinked to a stable thin membrane. Reference  H. Charan, J. Kinzel, U. Glebe, D. Anand, T. M. Garakani, L. Zhu, M. Bocola, U. Schwaneberg, A. Böker, Biomaterials 2016, 107, 115-123.
16:40 - 17:00
Gelled Lyotropic Liquid Crystals – the Interplay Between Liquid-Crystalline Order and Gel Morphology
Sonja Dieterich, University of Stuttgart
Spoken Language: English Gelled lyotropic liquid crystalline phases are soft materials in which the anisotropy of a lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) is combined with the mechanical stability of a gel. We here present first results obtained by a systematical investigation of the preparation, the phase behaviour and the structural properties of this new class of complex fluids. The studied LLC system consists of sodium dodecylsulphate (SDS) as surfactant, decanol as co-surfactant and water. At constant temperature (25°C) and fixed water content (70 wt.%) various liquid crystalline phases (lamellar Lα, nematic Nd and Nc, hexagonal H1) are formed depending on the decanol to SDS ratio. Using the low molecular weight organogelator 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, we developed a procedure for the simultaneous formation of the LLC phase and the gel network which leads to anisotropic and highly viscous gels. First small angle neutron scattering (SANS) studies of a gelled lamellar phase showed a higher translational order compared to its non-gelled counterpart while the layer spacing remains unchanged. We will discuss how the gel network influences structure and properties of the lyotropic liquid crystalline phase and vice versa.
09:00 - 09:15
Cleanse, Detoxify, Protect: The Next Generation of Anti-Pollution Actives
Anna Crovetto, Active Concepts SRL
Spoken Language: English Sulfur biology is an untapped, relatively undiscovered sector of cosmetic science, holding potential for novel anti-ageing and anti-pollution claims. Investigations into the protective mechanisms of a microalgae, which flourishes in polluted waters following an underwater volcano eruption, led us to the co-culturing of Crypthecodinium Cohnii with a sulfur rich growth media. This process allows for the extraction of specific sulfated polysaccharides which in turn can up regulate glutathione concentrations when applied topically. Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that works to protect against cellular and external environmental pollution defending the skin against both extrinsic and intrinsic stress.
Spoken Language: German Mitochondria are key for bioenergetics in eukaryotic life. But during ATP generation, they also contribute to the formation of reactive oxygen species, which oxidize proteins, DNA and cellular lipids. The quality of mitochondria declines with age, leading to reduced ATP, increased oxidative stress and even apoptosis. Mitochondrial dysfunction is recognized as one of the hallmarks of aging. Mitophagy is selective quality control process that targets and degrades damaged mitochondria in lysosomes. Mitophagy and mitochondrial biogenesis cooperate for the correct mitochondrial turnover required to maintain cell homeostasis. Mitophagy is impaired with age, contributing to mitochondrial dysfunction and deterioration of cell function. Therefore, we propose that boosting mitophagy will keep oxidative toxicity in check and recover function in aged cells, thus leading to a visible rejuvenation effect in vivo.
09:30 - 09:45
Gatuline Link n Lift – Redesign the Eye Contour!
Ute Wollenweber, Gattefossé (Deutschland) GmbH
Spoken Language: German Eyes truly reflect our emotions, however, this area is prone to age much faster than other skin areas: The skin is only half as thick as the skin of the cheek and therefore very fragile. Due to its permanent motion of blinking the skin around the eyes is the first part forming wrinkles. These wrinkles, crow’s feet, under-eye and tear trough wrinkles in particular, can lead to undesired negative expressions such as sadness, fatigue and sternness and a treatment to regenerate again an aspect of vitality and joy is needed. Gatuline® Link n Lift has been specifically developed to lift the whole eye contour area. It is sustainably sourced using the recently patented technology, NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents). With that innovative and mild method active ingredients only present in high concentration in the flowers of the horse chestnut and previously unattainable with conventional solvents were successfully extracted. The horse chestnut flowers are selectively and manually picked in the Ardèche (France), ensuring a truly responsible sourcing and organic certification for the ingredient. Gatuline® Link n Lift restores fibroblast dynamism and acts on the dermal-epidermal junction to firmly reconnect the epidermis to the dermis. Demonstrated in vitro on skin cells, Gatuline® Link n Lift directly acts on both the dermal-epidermal junction and the dermis to fight the dermal matrix degradation and to reinforce the dermal-epidermal junction integrity and functionality. In a clinical study it could be shown that Gatuline® Link n Lift visibly acts on all eye contour wrinkles. The double blind study versus placebo confirmed the rejuvenation of the eye contour with the first effects visible in just 2 weeks with noticeably reduced wrinkles and a toned and smoother skin.
09:45 - 10:00
Condurango Vine – a Multifunctional and Sustainable Source of Beauty and Wellbeing
Nora Schiemann, IMCD Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: German Condurango vine (Marsdenia Cundurango) is native of the Andes Cordillera and known for its detoxifying properties. Therefore, the condurango bark already found a place in herbal medicine and homeopathy as a bitter tonic, digestive aid, with detoxifying and analgesic properties. A CO₂ supercritical extraction process of the condurango bark, a plant that is being sourced sustainably and ethically, allows to capture oil soluble cinnamate derivatives, which are known for their anti-inflammatory properties. In Cosmetics it provides a broad variety of functions, mainly protection, support of cell clean-up processes (autophagy) and elimination of internal toxins. Several ex-vivo studies reveal a multitude of effects, including skin barrier functions, reducing effects of stress and aging, even with oxytocin-like benefits. Various applications in skin care, face care and body care are possible, also and most important in natural cosmetics.
10:00 - 10:15
Natural Actives with UV Induced Fluorescence for Instant and Long Term Skin Beauty Benefits
Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, IBR Ltd.
Spoken Language: English Fluorescent materials absorb light energy, and re-emit it at a longer wavelength. Fluorescence is used in a range of industries, including cosmetics. Usually, synthetic substances are employed. Here, we present the use of natural, UV activated, fluorescent active ingredients to deliver instant skin lightening and anti-redness; and overall skin brightening effects. In one study, we used the natural green fluorescence of phytoene and phytofluene from tomatoes, to deliver instant skin lightening and redness reduction. This was demonstrated in a placebo-controlled study using UV and full spectrum light photography and quantitative measures (colorimeter). In a second study, we used the natural blue fluorescence of dragon fruit extract to deliver immediate and long-term overall skin brightening effects using both photographic demonstration and quantitative instrumental measurements. In the studies reported above, we make use of the materials’ natural UV induced fluorescence, leveraging color opponency theory to deliver real, measurable, and consumer-perceptible beauty benefits – using natural and safe compounds.
10:15 - 10:30
Reestablishment of Cell Communication in Skin Based on a Biomimetic Peptide
Lilia Heider, Merck KGaA
Spoken Language: English What are consumers’ wishes regarding innovative cosmetic actives? Natural and bionic cosmetic ingredients fulfilling dry, very dry or sensitive skin demands like low skin irritation or immediate skin hydration are able to satisfy these requests. Furthermore multitasking properties to protect not only skin barrier but also enforcing skin own protective mechanisms should be considered too. Moreover consumers welcome options offering simple and effective support to turn back time. Today also cultural related aspects like kosher and halal requirements are topics consumers are keen on to have on hand. All these aspects were considered within the newly designed unique cyclic peptide containing product (CCP5). This product is based on a well-established liposome technology to enable its penetration into skin to show efficacy at the right location. Our redesigned liposome based cyclic peptide CCP5 addresses the re-establishment of cell communication (crosstalk in – out and in-between cells) within the skin using integrine based biochemical pathways to initiate repairing processes in the dermis. Based on its molecular designed RGD code the cyclic peptide mimics the interaction with dedicated cell surfaces integrins (alpha- νβ 5 and alpha- νβ 6). This smart interaction initiates mending processes via communication activation in the Extra Cellular Matrix (ECM). These processes result in visibly smoothing skin unevenness, while giving back firmness and elasticity to the skin. We would like to present new results to convey the success to rejuvenate skin conditions and to re-gain skin attractiveness. The mode of actions of CCP5 will be depicted using an in vitro assay. Based on a new performed in vivo study results will demonstrate the effectiveness of CCP5 to improve visible signs of aging by triggering cell communication to initiate restoration pathways in the skin.
11:00 - 11:15
BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol, a Safe and Effective Way to Use a Powerful Active
Florence Olechowski, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
Spoken Language: English Retinol (vitamin A) is one of the most effective ingredients available for adult acne and anti-aging treatments. Retinol stimulates collagen production, accelerates cell reproduction and normalises skin keratinisation (vitamin A deficiency). Retinol, because of its instability against oxygen and heavy metals as well as its easy and rapid degradability, is one of the active ingredients most in need of an effective carrier system in order to perform at its best. Taking advantage of the complex lipid blend composing it and its solid state, BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol effectively protects retinol against outside influences and so preserves its integrity prior to release. Discover how this release of the retinol can be controlled and prolonged for significantly lower skin irritation potential and better efficacy, thanks to BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol technology. Get a compelling insight into the combination of technical advantages in terms of efficacy and ease of use in the lab and production, and access evidence of the “survival” of the carrier within the final formulation. As this latest generation of lipid carrier protects retinol, it also restores the topmost layer of the skin, and improves bioavailability and penetration of the retinol into the skin layers.
11:15 - 11:30
Botanical Silicon from Millet – Trace Element for Alabaster‑Like, Flawless Skin
Barbara Obermayer, RAHN AG
Spoken Language: German Alabaster is the finest and most delicate stone for creating sculptures. Women of the baroque period were striving for alabaster-like skin, which was considered as a beauty ideal and as a synonym for even, flawless, radiant skin with a velvety look. According to recent findings, RAHN’s LIFTONIN® provides alabaster-like skin. The active ingredient consists of a millet extract (Panicum miliaceum), which is rich in bioavailable botanical silicon derivatives such as orthosilicic acid, complemented by astringent tannic acid from oak. In several new in-vitro studies RAHN has investigated LIFTONIN®‘s properties to reinforce the dermal fibre network as prerequisite for alabaster-like skin. According to new in-vivo data, the active ingredient improves skin texture and structure, provides a more even complexion, and improved radiance. If applied on Asian skin which is very susceptible to an impaired skin complexion due to the development of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation LIFTONIN® leads to a more even skin tone. LIFTONIN® is not only suitable for anti-ageing products, but also for nail care: After 4 months of application the silicon content in fingernails increases by 183%.
Spoken Language: English It is estimated that all adolescents will be affected by acne vulgaris in some stage of their life. However, sometimes this condition persists into adulthood. Acne is the most prevalent dermatologic condition worldwide (Hay RJ et al 2010) and its complications can lie into complex symptoms. While acne origin is complex, is well accepted that the development of acne lesions starts with the obstruction of the pilocebaceus canals because of the accumulation of keratinized cells and increase of sebum production. In this environment it becomes easy the proliferation of the anaerobic bacterium Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Current treatments include the use of molecules that help unclog pores, control surface bacteria and stimulate skin renewal. Although most treatments help reduce acne, they have compliance issues as they often cause skin dryness and irritation. Bicosome is a double encapsulation delivery system formed by intelligent structures able to recognize and respond to the different skin layers. Bicosomes can incorporate and deliver active ingredients directly in the skin layers where they need to work, allowing for the reduction of active ingredient concentration. In this study we evaluated the effectiveness of a sophisticated system, Bicomide, which combines Bicosomes and Niacinamide. Niacinamide is usually indicated in concentrations of 2- 4% (Z. Draelos et al 2006). In this work, Niacinamide was incorporated in Bicosomes and formulated in a gel with a final concentration of 0.3%. The in vivo study with 20 volunteers shows that after 30 days of treatment, Bicomide had a sebostatic effect, reducing around 25% of the amount of sebum and a direct antimicrobial effect, reducing 24% of the Porphyrin size area. These results were achieved with around 10 times less concentration of Niacinamide than usual, which evidences the efficacy of the Bicosomes to deliver the active ingredient in the target skin layers, boosting its efficacy.
11:45 - 12:00
A New Approach to Removing Pollutants from the Skin Using Innovative Nanofiber Nonwovens
Laura Frazier, SNS Nano Fiber Technology, LLC
Spoken Language: English As a result of the increasing concern over air pollution in many parts of the world, prevention of dermatological diseases has become a major topic of discussion. There are many cosmetic products on the market that aim to prevent contaminants from penetrating the skin’s barrier, cleansers for the skin, and repair products to reverse the damage wrought by pollution. Recently, a new approach to skin decontamination was developed using polymer nanofibers. Employing a unique process for producing nanofibers, nonwoven nanofibers have been developed that can be used to remove pollutants from the skin, including removal of substances from hair follicles, wrinkles, and furrows. Absorption of model substances as well as the capture of nanoparticles was investigated. Results from laser scanning microscopy as well as the tape stripping method confirmed that using polymer nanofibers represents a more effective method to remove contaminants from the skin, especially from the pores and hair follicles. This approach represents a unique method for removing harmful substances from the skin.
12:15 - 12:30
Kahl Veggiesoft Complex 6422 “Vegetable Based Lanolin”
Marc Schlüter, Kahl GmbH und Co KG
Spoken Language: German Kahl Veggiesoft Complex 6422 was developed as an alternative to natural animal based lanolin. It consists mainly of plant based waxes and oils, so it is suitable for all applications where the performance of lanolin is needed But no animal based material should be used.
12:30 - 12:45
Stable Multiple Nanoemulsion (w/o/w) for Dermal Drug Delivery – an Alternative to Liposomes
Gabriele Blume, Sopharcos Drug Delivery
Spoken Language: German Multiple water-in-oil-in water nanoemulsions (w/o/w) are complex systems within reverse micelles in an oil droplet which is surrounded by an aqueous phase. The interest in the usage of these nanoemulsions as carrier system for topical application is given by the high encapsulation efficiency of hydrophilic as well of amphiphilic and poorly soluble active ingredients for the cosmetic applications and in pharmacy. The nanoemulsion developed by Sopharcos shows an extremely homogeneous particle size in the area of 100-150 nm in comparison to the customary liposomes. Also higher concentrations of active ingredients up to highly molecular proteins could be embedded in these vesicles in contrast to the liposomes. The sheath of the water droplets inside the vesicles with the oily emoilent leads to a stabilization of poorly soluble mostly herbal substances. The active component epigallocatechin gallate from the green tea (EGCG) points cosmetic as pharmaceutical relevant qualities to as for example antioxidative effects up to prevention of UV-induced skin damages. By the encapsulation of EGCG into the multiple nanoemulsion this polyphenol penetrates in the deeper skin layers and where it causes high biological effects . It could be proved that EGCG is brought by this nanoemulsion into the skin even out from a lamellar cream (lipid membrane structures) as well as from hydrogel fleeces consisting of bacterial nanocellulose (BNC with a portion of 99% of water). There EGCG provides the viable cells in the epidermis and dermis with its antioxidatives properties. Against that liposomes remain in the lamellar cream as well as in the BNC and could not be used accordingly in these very interesting formulations for the cosmetics and pharmacy.
12:45 - 13:00
Capitalizing on Thickening, Suspending and Gelling Properties of Natural Polymers to Create Innovative Textures
Olivier Paquatte, Salfic-Alcan
Spoken Language: English Safic-Alcan has developed its own range of natural texturizing agents including xanthans, carrageenans, alginates, a guar, a carob and specific mixtures of those ingredients. In the conference, the technical characteristics of a mixture of carob and xanthan and of carrageenans will be discussed in order to better understand their potential thickening, suspending and gelling properties. Technical advices on how to formulate these ingredients in cosmetic products in order to obtain innovative textures will also be given.
14:30 - 14:45
Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurate Surfactants Give High Performing Personal Cleansing Systems
Peter Clark, Innospec Ltd
Spoken Language: English Sodium methyl acyl taurate surfactants are becoming popular for formulating high performing sulfate-free shampoos, shower gels and body washes, etc having global compliance. This presentation will cover formulating tips for achieving such systems using Innospec’s Pureact WS and Pureact MS taurate surfactants. It will also give details for formulating stable sodium methyl acyl taurate sulfate-free surfactant systems containing polymeric cationic conditioning agents, which have high conditioning efficacy.
14:45 - 15:00
From Essential Oils to Natural Oils: Naturally Derived Polyglycerin Esters to Cover Different PEG-free Solubilization Needs
Christian Hartung, Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH
Spoken Language: German Currently, the most effective solubilizers for oils in water-based cosmetic formulas are PEG-containing products such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or Polysorbate 20. However, these polyether-based products are less attractive regarding the raw material source and other sustainability reasons in common. Furthermore, their ability to solubilize very hydrophobic oils is limited. Therefore, identifying products that are broadly applicable, mild, readily biodegradable, wholly naturally derived and PEG-free as alternatives is highly desirable. A novel set of four completely naturally derived, PEG-free products based on polyglycerol ester chemistry covers the efficient solubilization of a broad variety of different oils in water-based formulations. TEGO® Solve 55 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate/Caprylate/Succinate; Propylene Glycol) and TEGO® Solve 90 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate) are especially suitable for solubilizing perfume and essential oils. Complementary, TEGO® Solve 61 (Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate) is more effective for the solubilization of very hydrophobic ingredients like natural oils (e.g. sunflower or argan oil). Finally, light emollient esters like Isopropyl Myristate or hydrocarbons like Isohexadecane are effectively solubilized with TEGOSOFT® PC 41 (Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate). In addition to their excellent solubilizing properties, the four products are cold processable and electrolyte-resistant. They exhibit ultra-mild cleansing properties and deliver moisturization benefits. Due to their pigment-wetting properties and their solubilizing performance for different types of oils, the combination of these products is also highly suitable for make-up removers. In general, formulations for various applications such as hair & body cleansers, AP/Deo, wet wipe liquids, perfumes and micellar water/make-up remover can be prepared with these polyglycerin esters.
15:00 - 15:15
Discover our New Rheomer® Low pH Designed to MeetConsumer Needs for Transparent Rinse off Products
Marie Arzel, Solvay
Spoken Language: English Sensory (aesthetics, product texture...) keeps growing as a differentiating attribute. Following the massive shift to preservation with organic acids, many rheological ingredients — essential to sensory — have become inadequate, giving rise to new formulation challenges. Concurrently, skin types with specific needs (such as sensitive, dry, eczema-prone, or oily/acne-prone or simply ageing) are on the rise and require acidic pH treatments with pleasing textures. Solvay presents this new rheological agent that performs in acidic pH: Rheomer® Low pH.
15:15 - 15:30
Oil Drop Deposition on Solid Surfaces in Mixed Polymer-surfactant Solutions in Relation to Hair- and Skin-Care Applications
Hui Xu, KL-Kepong Oleomas Sdn Bhd
Spoken Language: English Oil is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its unique feel and properties. In shampoo, it can improve the combing, smooth feeling and brightness effect of the hair, while in skin products, it can provide moisturizing and softening for the skin. The deposition of oil drops on solid substrates (treated glass plates) from mixed solutions of surfactants and cationic polymer (Jaguar® C-13-S: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) is investigated. The used anionic surfactants are sodium laurylethersulfate (SLES), among others; the zwitter-ionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). A new method, pressed drop method (PDM), was proposed to study the drop adhesion to substrates of different hydrophobicity. The PDM allows one to detect the presence or absence of drop adhesion at different degrees of dilution of the initial solution and, thus, to determine the threshold concentration of drop adhesion. The higher the adhesion concentration, the easier the oil drop deposition on the substrate. The results show that the increase of the fraction of CAPB in the mixture with the anionic surfactant suppresses the oil-drop deposition; the selected anionic surfactants showed different levels of oil drop adhesion; the addition of NaCl enhances, whereas coco fatty acid monoethanolamide (CMEA) suppresses the drop deposition; no drop adhesion is observed in the absence of polymer. In the PDM measurements, the oil drops have millimeter size, whereas the drop diameter in emulsions is usually of the order of micrometers, and even smaller. To verify whether the results obtained by PDM measurements are also epresentative for oil-drop deposition from emulsions, comparative experiments on the emulsion drop deposition properties were carried out. From viewpoint of applications, the PDM experiments enable one to compare the performance of various components in personal care formulations and optimize their compositions with respect to the oil-drop deposition.
16:00 - 16:15
Pemulen™ EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier, a multifunctional and versatile ingredient for skin and sun care applications
Florence Pecquerie, Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Spoken Language: English Creating a wide range of O/W emulsions has never been this easy! External factors, such as stress and pollution, have raised the prevalence of sensitive skin and the need for formulating with ingredients that enable milder formulations with simplicity, no compromise on aesthetics and sensory, while maintaining required performance. With these imperatives in mind, Lubrizol Skin Essentials designed Pemulen™ EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier. This new generation of multifunctional acrylate-based polymeric emulsifier overcomes the limitation of existing technologies, and enables the formulation of a wide variety of galenics such as wet wipes, milks, shiny creams, water-resistant sunscreens or thin, sprayable lotions. Pemulen™ EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier provides, over a wide pH range (4-9), stable, smooth and appealing textures in challenging systems such as ultra-low viscosity or high oil loading systems. Its excellent suspending capabilities offers visually appealing aesthetics by stabilizing emollients or particles in the system, making it the ideal candidate for water-resistant sun care applications with pleasant light and non-sticky sensory. Additionally, this PEG-free and preservative-free polymeric emulsifier guarantees stability and mildness at low use levels which is particularly appropriate for sensitive skin applications. Finally, the combination of fast dispersion, ease of use and cold processability reduces manufacturing complexity and offers more flexibility than from any other emulsion stabilizers. Lubrizol Skin Essentials features Pemulen™ EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier: a robust and highly efficient solution, providing emulsion stability and mildness for skin and sun care products without compromising on the pleasant sensory and the variety of galenics!
16:15 - 16:30
Long-term and Comfortable Sun Protection for Face, Sport & Kids
Astrid Wulfinghoff, Covestro AG
Spoken Language: German Mutlifunctional polyurethane film formers for advanced face, sport & kids sunscreen formulations BEACH-FRIENDLY SUN PROTECTION WITH BAYCUSAN® C 1004 Building sand castles or splashing around in the sea – children love everything about the beach. Except for annoying breaks to put on more sun cream, sticky hands and itchy skin! Fortunately, our water-based film former Baycusan® C1004 allows formulating very water-resistant, sweat-resistant and sand-resistant emulsions. It combines safe and easy application with comfortable long-term protection. TRANSPARENT & DRY TOUCH SUN PROTECTION WITH BAYCUSAN® C 2000 The high versatility of Baycusan® C 2000 film former makes it suitable for transparent sunscreen gels, aerosol sprays and oils that can be easily applied even on wet skin. It leaves an invisible film providing exceptional sensory, outstanding water resistance, sweat -resistance and increasing the SPF. Baycusan® C 2000 allows formulating sun oils almost ethanol-free showing water resistance even in saltwater and leaving a velvety and dry after-feel. SUPERIOR PROTECTION FOR SENSITIVE SKIN WITH BAYCUSAN® C 1000 With its ability to avoid UV filters migration and its self-stabilizing properties, Baycusan® C 1000 enables emulsions to be created with the lowest levels of allergenic agents like UV filters and emulsifiers while maintaining the highest levels of protection and water resistance. Formulations absorb quickly and leave a pleasant feeling on the skin.
16:30 - 16:45
Formulating Synthetic Polymer-free Cosmetic Products with Carrageenane and Alginate
Holger Seidel, Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH
Spoken Language: German The discussion on the avoidance of microparticles in cosmetic products - intentionally or unintentionally - also relates to the use of hydrocolloids based on synthetic polymers. Suitable alternative, natural thickeners are carrageenane and alginates. By selecting and combining the different types of carrageenans (kappa, lambda, iota), flow properties and transparency of the end products can be specifically controlled. Trend formulations such as peeling masks and gel soaps are presented as examples. Alginates are known to impart a very pleasant, velvet skin feeling in leave-on products and to build flowable gel structures in higher concentrations. In addition, modern alginates are also used to prepare stable emulsion gels. The introduction of a lipophilic side chain gives the alginates amphiphilic properties to stabilize the oil/water-interface of o/w- emulsion gels very effectively. Emulsion gels are used especially for the production of light, water-resistant sun protection formulations. The use of emulsion-stabilizing, amphiphilic alginates requires a special preparation process to anchor the macromolecular hydrocolloid chains at oil/water interface efficiently. The adjustment of the rheological properties and the mediation of the skin feeling is made by the appropriate selection of a second hydrocolloid, e.g. Dehydroxanthan gum.
09:00 - 09:15
Boosting Efficacy of Preservatives: CHG & NHG, the Ideal Preservative
Yasuhiro Tsushima, ADEKA Europe GmbH
Spoken Language: English The glycol Cyclohexylglycerin (CHG) & Hexylglycerin (NHG) water soluble have a surfactant-like structure. Due to this structure, CHG & NHG affects the interfacial tension at the cell membrane of microorganisms, allowing some active ingredients, such as antimicrobials and preservative actives, to penetrate more effectively. In order to prove the preservative boosting effect of CHG & NHG ,challenge tests have been carried. Today we will present the best combination of water-soluble preservative boosters with the CHG & NHG, with high efficacity on Moulds, Yeasts & bacteria . CHG & NHG the ideal preservative -Easy to use and handle -Low skin irritation eg. Infections to sensitive areas such as eye -Effective at target pH of product -Effective in very low use concentrations -Raw material & formulation compatibility -Soluble in water -Suitable for leave-on and rinse-off To move closer to the ideal preservative booster with CHG & NHG -To broaden the spectrum of activity (yeast, mold, bacteria) -Improve effectiveness over the single actives (synergism) -Improve application in different formulations -Improve safety by reducing the concentrations required of any single component -Improve cost-effectiveness -Offer more flexibility and choice to the customer
Spoken Language: English Among the “bad” bacteria we can find Malessezia Furfur, on the skin of 90% of adults, responsible for dandruff & seborrheic dermatitis. Also known is Corynebacterium Striatum that contributes strongly to unpleasant body odors. Among the “friendly” bacteria, Staphylococcus epidermidis allows to protect the skin from pathogenic agents by producing antimicrobial peptides and by inhibit of Staphylococcus aureus adhesion. A healthy skin is a skin that offers a good balance between the different bacteria. Fighting against the harmful microorganisms and maintaining the friendly ones. For this purpose, SEPPIC proposes to the cosmetic market an original active ingredient: FLUIDIPURE™ 8G. FLUIDIPURE™ 8G inhibits the growth of bacteria responsible for dandruff by fighting against Malassezia Furfur. New clinical studies, realised versus Placebo on a 46 chinese volunteers with sensitive scalp disorders, show that FLUIDIPURE™ 8G significantly decrease the numbers of dandruff after 10 shampoos (scoring by 2 experimental judges, double-blind & randomized study). 100% of volunteers felt less oily scalp & hair Complementary, FLUIDIPURE™ 8G maintains the “benefic” bacteria and we have proved, by measurement of bacterial growth, that it maintains the proliferation of the above mentioned Staphyloccocus Aureus know. FLUIDIPURE™ 8G, biovector of glycine and sugar, respects also the sensitive skin by maintaining the natural acidic pH of the skin. It allows also to reduce the quantity of classical preservative in the formula for a better skin tolerance. This active agent, presented in liquid and transparent form, can be readily incorporated into any type of cosmetic care or hygiene product. Thanks to its affordable cost in formulations, FLUIDIPURE™ 8G affords solutions to the strong worldwide demand for purifying active agent.
09:30 - 09:45
Galenic Stability – A Challenge to Formulate with Antimicrobial Stabilizers
Bernd Heinken, Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Spoken Language: German Formulators nowadays must pay greater attention and effort on the stability of their formulation to ensure the requested shelf-life when using alternative raw materials. The presentation will demonstrate how a fast analysis of the galenic stability of Personal Care formulations can be achieved applying an optical centrifuge method. Examples will be demonstrated how antimicrobial stabilizers that require higher dosages for sufficient microbiological stability can impact the galenic stability of emulsions. During joint project work comprehensive data has been generated to demonstrate various influences of selected emulsions and alternative antimicrobial stabilisation systems.
09:45 - 10:00
Verstatil® MBO – The Tailor Made Preservation Solution for Wet Wipes
Ralf Kuschnereit, Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH
Spoken Language: German Nowadays finding a suitable and adequate preservation system is a big challenge. Moreover the number of safe, approved and publicly accepted preserving systems has been declining constantly. The quest after the right system becomes even harder if you are working in a market segment with special needs, like the wet wipes segment. There are particular requirements for the efficient preservation of wet wipes. During this presentation Dr. Straetmans will introduce a tailor made solution for this scope of application Verstatil® MBO and will discuss the different factors that have to be taken into account when choosing the right preservation system for your wet wipe product.
10:00 - 10:15
Evaluation of the Effects of Stressful Life on Human Skin Microbiota
Pierre-Yves Morvan, Codif International
Spoken Language: English As the first barrier to environmental exposures, human skin has developed an integrated immune system to protect the inner body from chemical, physical or microbial insults. Microorganisms inhabiting superficial skin layers are known as skin microbiota and include bacteria, viruses, archaea and fungi. The microbiota composition is crucial in the instruction and support of the skin's immune system. The contribution of skin microbiota to disease development has previously been described, especially in atopic dermatitis, where there is an increase in Staphylococcus aureus. In our study, we are more interesting on the effect of a stressful life on skin microbiota, and more especially on skin bacteria. We studied the skin microbiota from the face of 70 healthy human subjects. Firstly, we worked with 2 groups of 20 volunteers selected according to their stress level, using a validated stress score evaluation, known as Perceived Stress Scale (PSS). The PSS index were under 21 for unstressed group and up to 27 for stressed group. We also evaluated the skin parameters in the 2 groups, such as skin pH, transepidermal water loss, skin imperfection and redness. Then, we tested the effect of a topical treatment on the skin microflora of one group of 30 volunteers with high stress index. To determine the complexity and identity of the microbiota inhabiting the skin, we sequenced bacterial 16S small-subunit ribosomal RNA genes isolated from the face of all these 70 subjects. Our analysis revealed the operational taxonomic units that belong to six main bacterial divisions. Diversity and rihness were evaluated in the 2 groups (stressed vs unstressed) using Shannon index and Chao index, respectively. Firstly, we will describe the main characteristics of the skin microbiota (species and number) on the stressed group compared with unstressed group. Then we will present the effect of the treatment on the skin microbiota of stressed group.
Spoken Language: German The NRC Group application laboratory works together with customers and suppliers to create optimal synergies with its versatile portfolio of raw materials in response to current market demands and trends. Getting away from the fast pace of everyday life is crucial for reducing stress levels and recharging our energy, because the skin’s reaction is unforgiving: dark circles under the eyes, a wan complexion and sensitivity are often the consequences. But there’s not always time for the spa or seeing a beautician. Quite the contrary – often people only have a few minutes at night to invest towards recovery that they can see and feel. The solution? The ritual of skin care becomes a relaxing experience in the comfort of one’s own home. The NRC Group application laboratory will be introducing a home-spa concept themed “Detox, Nourish and Protect”. The formulation concepts instantly provide maximum effects and perceptible recovery combined with an exciting sensory experience. Actives with a broad range of effects make it possible for end users to achieve individualized results.
11:00 - 11:15
BEAUACTIVE® Corrects Both Conspicuous Facial Pores and Age Spots
Olivier Garet, DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
Spoken Language: English Most people looking for beautiful skin think first of eliminating lines and wrinkles. But other concerns, such as conspicuous facial pores and age spots, may be equally troubling. These arise after the age of 30 and are mainly caused by the aging process, exacerbated by sun light. They have the effect of making people feel less attractive, particularly given their association with aging. DSM is addressing these concerns with BEAUACTIVE® a potent Hydroxystearic acid of high purity which is manufactured using green technology. DSM researchers discovered that BEAUACTIVE® shows multi-target effects. Upon UVB stress BEAUACTIVE® hinders the production of both sunburn cells and the stress marker p53 which can increase skin pigmentation. It also helps the skin to make more collagen, a key structural factor in the prevention of conspicuous facial pores. Eight-week placebo-controlled double-blind study has confirmed the outstanding efficacy of BEAUACTIVE® which results in a visible reduction of conspicuous facial pores and age spots, giving skin a younger, improved appearance after the age of 30.
11:15 - 11:30
TURMERIA ZEN PRCF Relaxes the Premature Signs of Ageing Caused by the Stress, by Targeting the Brain-Skin Connection
Karsten Lingen, mani GmbH
Spoken Language: German Stress, tiredness and lack of sleep all affect our skin in many different ways. Our immune system is disturbed, making the skin more vulnerable and causing inflammation and dehydration. More wrinkles appear while existing wrinkles become deeper; there is a loss of elasticity, a delay in wound healing, damage to skin structure and a decrease in barrier function. Stress leads to the excessive release of stress-response hormones like Cortisol, altering the skin homeostasis (water balance and ECM structure). TURMERIA ZEN PRCF targets the stress related skin damages. Turmeric cell cultures were treated with plant stress hormones with cortisol-like effects and also stressed osmotically to simulate what happens in stressed skin. As a response, the culture produces a defensive cocktail of molecules such as diarylheptanoids and phytosterols. Under these stress factors, the plant cell cultures of turmeric have generated a specific Plasma Rich in Cell Factors (PRCF) to protect themselves: the active TURMERIA ZEN PRCF., which will protect our skin from the harmful effects of stress. TURMERIA ZEN PRCF relaxes the premature signs of ageing caused by the stress, by targeting the brain-skin connection: - In vitro, it reduces the pro-inflammatory response in monocytes (Mindfulness-like effect). - It has strong regenerative/wound healing properties, as shown from the in vitro scratch test on Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDF), reaching a 72% after only 24 hours. - Biopsies (ex vivo) of normal vs stressed skin (induction with hydrocortisone) show degradation of collagen and elastin, while stressed skin with TURMERIA ZEN PRCF is able to prevent this. - Finally, the in vivo clinical study with stressed people during the winter time in Poland (January-February) showed that the “emotional skin hydration” was improved and that the depth of the deepest “stress wrinkles” was significantly reduced.
11:30 - 11:45
Liposomal Encapsulation of Cosmetic Actives: Natural Delivery Systems for Enhanced Skin Interaction
Bernd Albrecht, Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Spoken Language: German A prerequisite to unfold optimal cosmetic efficacy is a preferential enrichment of active ingredients in the stratum corneum. Liposomes, phospholipid vesicles enclosing an aqueous core, can modulate the barrier properties of the skin and significantly increase permeation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic ingredients, respectively. The mechanism of liposomal delivery systems was studied with Caffeine Herbasome®, an innovative formulation of encapsulated caffeine with niacinamide. Caffeine is known to have a stimulation effect on the microcirculation of blood vessels. It is therefore reasonable to enhance the transport into the deeper skin layers. Further, Caffeine, although being hydrophilic, has only a limited solubility in water. For its solubilization and for its penetration enhancement abilities encapsulation techniques based on phospholipids were chosen. In-vitro studies reveal a synergistic interaction of two opposite effects: permeation of the Caffeine into the skin and retention of the active ingredient by the liposomal matrix (depot effect). As a result, targeted accumulation of the active ingredient in the stratum corneum was achieved. Further, it was shown that Caffeine could be found in the deeper layers of the skin (Epidermis and Dermis). Natural phospholipids are known by the body, non-irritant and mild on the skin. It could be shown that its encapsulation techniques work very efficient as delivery systems for active. Therefore they are the ideal candidates for enhanced skin interaction.
11:45 - 12.00
Precious Molecules from Maracuja Take Care of Weakened and Damaged Skin
Maud Chapis, Laboratoires Expanscience
Spoken Language: English PASSIOLINE® is a concentrate, rich in unsaponifiables derived from the co-valorization of Peruvian Maracuja juice industry. The seeds left out, are dried and pressed to obtain Maracuja oil (Passion fruit). The noblest active molecules of this oil (unsaponifiables), are concentrated by a 100% physical process, fully respectful of the environment: molecular distillation. PASSIOLINE® promotes skin healing process to repair, regenerate and soothe skin imperfections (chapping, irritations, acne, burns, cuts, and post-surgery lesions). Skin repair PASSIOLINE® stimulates cell proliferation and migration (keratinocytes, fibroblasts) to promote immediate recovering of the tissues. Biological markers supporting cells migration (fibronectin, Hyaluronic acid) are stimulated by PASSIOLINE®. Promoting epidermis and dermis repair, PASSIOLINE® also enables the repair of the dermal-epidermal junction. A model of artificial wound on reconstructed skin highlights PASSIOLINE® efficacy on DEJ structural markers (collagen IV, perlecan) and anchoring fibers (collagen VII). Skin regeneration: ECM remodeling PASSIOLINE® stimulates elastin synthesis and its optimal organization via the fibrillin expression enhancement. Elastin is essential for the healing process, supporting the reorganization of new components of the matrix synthesized after the wound occurs. PASSIOLINE® promotes an optimal rearrangement of the ECM in stimulating collagen I & III and key markers of their proper assembly and structural organization (fibromodulin, lumican). PASSIOLINE® also boosts the contractile forces of fibroblasts, essential for the proper matrix reorganization. Clinical study confirmation A challenging clinical study (48 women), including a dermabrasion protocol was performed. PASSIOLINE® was compared to a repairing commercial cream, leader on this market. Within the 14 days of application after dermabrasion, PASSIOLINE® has the same efficacy than the commercial cream for both repairing and soothing effects. PASSIOLINE® significantly decreases dryness, erythema and desquamation with the same efficacy than the commercial cream. PASSIOLINE®, a solution for the daily little lesions the skin is subject to, promoting proper skin repair and remodeling.
12:15 - 12:30
AFA-GS – An Algae with Remarkable Skin Protection and Anti-pollution Properties
Marion Lorenzi, Grolman Group
Spoken Language: English AFA-GS derives from a selective extraction of Klamath Alga (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae = AFA) that grows in the Klamath Lake in Oregon (USA). The dermatological properties of its active ingredients are multi-functional. AFA-GS is mainly an anti-pollution ingredient, but it also helps to lower the environment-derived stress to the immune system and related skin reactions. It is a very powerful anti-oxidant and shows an important anti-inflammatory activity making it suitable for sensitive and stressed skin. At 2% AFA-GS increases the moisturizing and elasticity.
Spoken Language: English Because of their main biological effects, retinoids are among the most prescribed and recommended agents in dermatological therapy. However, its use is often associated with photosensitivity and skin irritation. Revinage® is an active which is composed of a botanical supercritical extract, a top-of-the-line green chemistry technology, which allows obtaining highly concentrated, solvent-free extracts and meeting all requirements for an environmentally-sustainable product. Revinage is rich in phytol, a precursor of phytanic acid, that is a ligand of Retinoid X Receptor (RXR) as shown by our in silico studies. Simulation of the interaction between the RXR receptor and phytanic acid, a molecule produced by transformation of the phytol present in Revinage® when it permeates the skin. Phytanic acid (represented by green spheres and sticks) positioned on the active site of the RXR receptor (gray surface). Revinage® has a multi-target concept aiming to fight against skin aging. In vitro tests show its capacity to: Increase Collagen synthesis by 24% and Elastin by 26%; Increase the level of cell turnover factors EGF and TGF-Beta by 108% and 41%, respectively; Increase antioxidant enzymes CAT and SOD by 47% and 247%, respectively; Reduce inflammatory mediators COX-2, PGE2 and LTB4, by 69%, 26% and 28%, respectively. Clinical trials also prove the remarkable effects of Revinage. After 42 days of treatment with Revinage®, volunteers presented a reduction of 28% of deep wrinkles and 36% of skin roughness. Elasticity and dermis redensification were also increased by 13% and 25%. Skin Topography Picture - PRIMOS® Revinage®is a vegetal alternative to retinoids, being safe to use even when exposed to sunlight unlike retinoids due to is high stability to oxidation and UV radiation.
12:45 - 13:00
Hair Damage Prevention Technology with Naturally Derived Ingredients
Neil Kilcullen, Itaconix
Spoken Language: English Thermal styling remains popular among today’s consumers to create and hold hair styles that also look soft, smooth and with minimal frizz. However, with repeated heat styling, consumers find that their hair can become rough and fragile and is typically prone to breakage and more difficult to comb. As a consequence, products that offer thermal protection are a key component of many hair care ranges. Ingredients claiming to protect hair from heat damage are typically either petrochemical or silicone based, yet more than ever before, consumers are driving the demand for natural products in the personal care area. In response to this demand, Itaconix have expanded our sustainable and naturally derived polyitaconate-based platform to create a product that beats the damaging effects of heat on hair. We will show how RevCare HP can be used during thermal styling to help prevent cuticle damage such as cracking, breaking and raising of the cuticle edge which would otherwise lead to a rougher hair surface and increased porosity. If allowed to occur this will create increased friction between the fibres making the hair more difficult to comb. RevCare HP keeps hair in excellent condition following thermal styling so that it is easier to comb, has a reduced tendency to be affected by frizz, and all without build-up of product that could negatively affect the way the hair looks and feels. We will also demonstrate that our polyitaconate technology can be used to control frizz in other contexts such as wet styling. The RevCare range can style hair in a flexible manner and offers an alternative method of frizz control to hydrophobic materials such as silicones. Itaconix polyitaconate materials are derived from biotechnological sources using environmentally friendly green manufacturing processes and include products in the range that are COSMOS approved.
14:30 - 14:45
An Innovative Conditioning Agent for Hair Care
Alexandra Sartori, Oxiteno S/A Indústria e Comércio
Spoken Language: English Hair care products have a great share in the cosmetic industry. According to data from Euromonitor International, hair care products represented, in 2015, 16% of total retail sales of personal care products globally. In Brazil, where various types of hair coexist, hair care products are even more important, representing 20% of the total market in the same year. Hair is constantly exposed to a wide variety of aggressions - such as heat, sunlight, chemical treatments, and mechanical manipulation, - that can result in various damages. Besides that, the use of hair cleansing products removes sebum that causes hair greasiness, but such molecules are also responsible for creating a protective barrier that reduces static effects between the strands of hair. Therefore, the hair conditioning after cleansing has always been among the most cited needs of consumers of hair care products. Nowadays, however, other claims are gaining in popularity, especially frizz reduction and repair of damages such as breakage and split ends. Consumer researches in Brazil point out that the reduction of frizz is one of the most important benefits required by consumers of shampoos. This work proposes an innovative conditioning agent, based on a unique combination of emollients and humectants. Efficacy tests carried out in virgin Caucasian hair demonstrated that when used in shampoos and hair conditioners, this new ingredient boosts the ability of the formulations to promote the reduction of frizz. Moreover, the solution allows for the reduction of cationic surfactants, silicones and other commonly used conditioning agents without prejudice to combability, softness and moisturization of the hair. These results are probably related to the adsorption ability of the composition on the hair surface and to its resistance to rinsing, which are both features of great interest when hair conditioning effects are required.
14:45 - 15:00
ResistHyal™: White Biotechnology for a Sustainable & Advanced Hair Care Active Ingredient
Ophelie Bourgon, Givaudan
Spoken Language: English Hair care ingredients are traditionally based on non-sustainable chemicals (acrylates, silicones, ammonia, thioglycolates), having not only irritating side effects but also serious environmental consequences. Very few scientific innovations have been made in this area to answer consumers’ key natural and performance expectations. ResistHyal™ is the first 100% bio-manufactured hair beauty enhancer inspired from the researches on hyaluronic acid (HA). It contains 3 post-biotics: two grades of HA and lactic acid, all of them being obtained by an integrated biotechnology fermentation process using plant sugar as a sustainable carbon source. Our production plant being at the core of the Biorefinery, our raw materials such as wheat and sugarbeets are sourced from local farmers. With over 98% of naturality index, ResistHyal™ is the very first bio-active ingredient naturally boosting hair beauty by making them shiny, supple, soft, non-frizzing and resistant to pollution.
15:00 - 15:15
Unlock the Power of Nature in Haircare: Natural Osmolytes.
Piera Pericu, DuPont Industrial Biosciences
Spoken Language: English Today, consumers seek more information on ingredients, and they increasingly desire to have natural ingredients in the formula that are in line with their greener lifestyle choices. However, consumers are not willing to compromise product efficacy for an all-natural product. Specifically, in haircare, consumers start to demand products that go beyond cleaning the hair and the scalp. Products with added-value benefits such as strengthening, moisturizing and repairing the hair are on the rise. With GENENCARE® OSMS BA, an osmolyte naturally present in hair, DuPont unlocks the power of nature in a highly purified ingredient form, so consumers no longer have to sacrifice performance for natural ingredients – they get both with GENENCARE® OSMS BA. GENENCARE® OSMS BA extends the consolidated benefits known on skin to the scalp. GENENCARE® OSMS BA has been tested on three different type of hair, confirming the hair strengthening benefit and showing anti-frizz properties, as well as significant improvement on hair condition look. GENENCARE® OSMS BA brings beauty to our one world with many cultures.
Spoken Language: English ERYLITE® Erythritol is a yeast fermentation based polyalcohol with a strong natural appeal. Its chemical structure (4 hydroxyl groups) allows a powerful water binding and creates strong humectant properties, exploited today in skin care and moisturising products. Studies on the influence of an ERYLITE® containing shampoo on the combability of hair has revealed interesting results: Significantly lower combing forces after the ERYLITE® shampoo treatment were found which translates into overall better manageability of hair. In addition anti frizz effects could be substantiated. In recent tests on the effects of ERYLITE® in hair conditioners further very useful effects were witnessed: In a classical Rinse-Off conditioner ERYLITE® could clearly reduce combing forces versus a placebo conditioning system without ERYLITE®. No matter what type of shampoo was used in advance (i.e. shampoo with or without ERYLITE®) the effect of comb force reduction was same strong. The tests with an ERYLITE® Leave-In conditioner showed more differentiated results. Combing forces could be reduced versus an ERYLITE® free placebo. However, the comb force reduction was significantly stronger when the hair was washed with ERYLITE® based shampoo before the conditioner treatment. It can be concluded that upon usage of ERYLITE® in shampoo and as well in a Leave-In conditioner the combing reductions can be indeed multiply and lead to hair that has a superior manageability and ease in care and styling, plus anti frizz effects and a moisturising boost for the scalp.
16:00 - 16:15
States of Mobility of Water Molecules Measured by in Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy
Gunja Springmann, proDERM Institute
Spoken Language: German The hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) has been one of the main topics in the field of cosmetic research. Confocal Raman microscopy is a unique method to analyze the amount of water at different depths below the skin surface. Only water that is well bound and not free for immediate evaporation enables long-term moisturization and therefore is beneficial to counter dry skin conditions. A new and innovative method evaluating the water status in the SC was used to determine the state of mobility of water molecules. The space limitations and strength of hydrogen bonds in the water molecule has an influence on the Raman spectrum of water itself. Using a specific spectral analysis the water molecules can be classified in three states: bound/least mobile, intermediately mobile and most mobile water molecules. Measurements showed that a topical formulation containing urea leads to improved binding of water. After analyzing the Raman spectra the fraction of mobile water compared to the fraction of intermediately mobile water and of bond water had decreased, while the total amount of water was comparable for treated and untreated test areas. In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy can be used to swiftly measure the mobility of water at different depths in the SC with good precision. In addition to the classical water measurements this innovative method provides data to distinguish between different states of mobility of water in the skin. It could be shown that while the total amount of water in the SC and its barrier function stayed constant, the mobility of water can even shift to stronger bound water after applying a suitable cosmetic product.
16:15 - 16:30
Velvesil™ E-Gel PMF: A Unique Emulsion with a Silicone Crosspolymer Network
Sabine Nienstedt, Momentive Performance Materials GmbH
Spoken Language: German Velvesil* E-Gel PMF emulsion delivers silicone elastomer sensory via the water phase. The unique silicone network helps deliver excellent emolliency, a soft, cushioning feel and a soft focus effect. Key Features include easy dispersability in water-based systems, cushioning, no balling and substantial after-feel on skin as well as optical properties including a soft focus benefit. Addition of Velvesil E-Gel PMF emulsion helped improve the dispersion of UV filters leading to a SPF boosting effect. *Velvesil is a trademark of Momentive Performance Materials INC.
Spoken Language: German INOLEX, Inc., based in the United States, is an independent, global cosmetic ingredient company with expertise in synthesis and formulation provides innovative materials for the world's leading cosmetic and consumer product companies. INOLEX launched their SustOleo™ line together with guideline formulations which show the versatile textures the formulator can achieve with these products. The SustOleo™ range features eight different products: two fluids, three texturizers and three emulsifiers. The formulator can either build the basis for his formulations by combining several of the SustOleo™ products or he can add for example a texturizer to give a softer skin feel to his existing formulation. INOLEX shows how to create new textures, to influence the sensory properties or to stabilize emulsions by using several analysis techniques: Internal and external panel tests, microscopy, various rheology measurements etc. – all these techniques prove what can be felt on the skin. In addition, all SustOleo™ products satisfy the market’s demand for palm sourcing as INOLEX is not using any palm raw materials. The raw materials are either derived from rapeseed or coconut or castor or olive oil.
16:45 - 17:00
Firmer Face, Neck and Décolleté from the Elixir of Life Mushroom
Ralf Gantner, Lipotec SAU
Spoken Language: German Shiitake mushroom has been used since ancient times as a remedy, especially in oriental therapies, being even acknowledged as an elixir of life. Based on the potential antioxidant and anti-aging benefits of the mushroom, a new shiitake-based extract, ACTIFCOL™ advanced botanical ingredient, has been launched with the aim of providing firmness and smoothness to the skin. The botanical ingredient was selected to act on the different stages of the collagen life cycle, by not only increasing its synthesis, but also by ensuring a proper protein quality while minimizing its deterioration. This complete care of collagen is expected to provide a proper protein functionality that leads to a younger and better-looking skin. In particular, the ingredient showed to boost the synthesis of type I collagen and to increase the levels of PLOD1, a gene involved in the hydroxylation of lysine residues in collagen, which represents a critical step for a correct structural and biological function of the protein. Furthermore, the cosmetic ingredient also helped decrease the carbamylation process of collagen, responsible for an alteration in its structure that contributes to protein deterioration and thus, skin aging. The rejuvenating properties of the ingredient were further assessed through a clinical study on female volunteers. A cream containing ACTIFCOL™ advanced botanical ingredient was repeatedly applied on the face, neck and décolleté of the subjects, resulting in a firmer and more isotropic skin at the end of the treatment. In addition, macro photographs of the volunteers supported such efficacy with a great visible improvement in firmness, evening of neck folds and smoothness.
The first day of the congress is done, now is the time for rounding off the evening of a perfect day with a nice welcome drink. Join us!